Posted by CO2X | Today @ 09:40 PM | 24 Views
Got all this parts doing nothing and decided to build another Y6. Weather been crazy here in California and I need something to fly that can at least fight the wind which is the norm over here lately making the minis useless. MTM @ 23.5 " and 16mm CF booms with Sunnysky X2212-13 and 25A Mantis BL Heli Esc's set up on a custom cut double stage Aluminum frame with 700 heli LG . Modified GF motor mounts to accept 2 motor set-up.

Here are some close-up pix....maiden video will follow soon.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Jay 123 | Today @ 09:33 PM | 24 Views
A lot of people get dizzy after a long distance flying, and they have no time to take off goggles because they just focus on throwing up. A large amounts of goggles in the market work not very well, you can just stare into the snowy screen that like old black-and-white television. Wide-angle lens are adopted by many merchants, so image distortion is common. Anyway, AKK technology comes to change this situation, its antenna can process signal better, which can avoid those unstable and annoying snowflake point on screen.
Posted by Sawee | Today @ 08:13 PM | 81 Views
This would be the group review, test and comparison for the following AKK FPV components:
1. AKK CA20 FPV camera
2. AKK X1P 5.8GHz 40CH 25/200/600mW video transmitter
3. AKK TS5828 5.8GHz 32CH 600mW video transmitter
4. AKK LR2 set of cloverleaf 5.8GHz FPV antennas
Let’s start with the video. This video covers some of the review information and visualizes the conducted tests.
AKK Tech CA20, X1P, TS5828, LR2 - FPV components group test (12 min 20 sec)

Posted by acclivity | Today @ 06:20 PM | 141 Views
Yeah, don't want to hear about it, but will push their views on everyone else. Typical.
Posted by Antic bipe | Today @ 06:04 PM | 152 Views
Hi All, I recently decided to revive an old Saito Family 120 and the aircraft it was in. The engine was very dirty but had no physical damage. After cleaning and stripping I rebuilt the engine with new ntn bearings using a fully sealed one in the front with the rear seal removed. I managed to find a new piston ring and valves as well. I was unable to find a gasket set so had to cut my own. The needle valve was not in great condition but works. The exhaust had no silencer just a straight pipe and was a bit loud.
I did a bench run of the engine and it runs just fine.
I then decided to fit a new needle valve but could not find one so I bought one for a later 120.
I did not want the needle valve to stick through the top of the fuselage and wanted a remote needle valve but had no luck with that either. I then decided to make my own the only problem was finding a fuel fitting for the carb (5mm x 0.5mm pitch) so made my own parts on my mini lathe.
I have again run the engine with my remote needle valve and it works just great. I also then made a velocity stack and removed the choke at the same time and on the bench run got 9330rpm on an APC 15 x 8. I have subsequently also made my own silencer but have not test run with it yet. Silencer was also an issue with the thread size or 14 mm x 1mm pitch so had to cut my own. I will post some pictures of the work I did. Any questions welcome.
Fly safe
Charlie.
Posted by Blaze0021 | Today @ 05:54 PM | 152 Views
Just slipping through Sunday like...

Side-Slipping Through Sunday Like... (0 min 9 sec)

Enjoying my Sunday Funday with my 1.3m Eflite Valiant. Upgrades include an APC 11x8.5 Prop, Eflite Timber Tires, and an Eflite 40-Amp Switch Mode ESC.
Posted by BoatBoy101 | Today @ 04:34 PM | 220 Views
Hello everyone,
I have been building the Dumas Trojan F-31 Cruiser and need help. I do not know what type of paint and what company to paint it. I have read through a few forums and found that people prefer to use a primer to help the paint stick then appliance paint or auto body paint to cover a boat. I really don't know what to use for this specific model. Here is a link if it helps: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXE349&P=0


I am also in doubt about what motor, speed control, and remote to use for the boat.



If I could have some help that would be wonderful!!
Posted by exeswiss | Today @ 02:34 PM | 285 Views
FPV Chillout Session (2 min 32 sec)

Posted by Livershifter | Today @ 11:41 AM | 447 Views
I had my old ZMR 250 on the shelf collecting dust and I have wanted to try hydro dipping one of my quads for a while now so i figured why not!!!
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...Continue Reading
Posted by Boss FPV | Today @ 07:03 AM | 616 Views
Some freestyle flights after racing all day!

After the race freestyle (2 min 23 sec)

Posted by sanukiudon | Today @ 03:17 AM | 719 Views
Ninja 2.5T
山でDS (2 min 4 sec)

Posted by Jack Crossfire | Today @ 01:55 AM | 780 Views
The day had finally come to install short circuiting switches on the Mastech. Many circuits were fried because its current limiting was set too high. It was too much trouble to unplug the circuit & plug in a short circuiting wire to set it.


Despite looking simple from outside, the front panel is packed on the inside. There was only 1 place to squeeze the switches in. The LEDs had to be sandwiched between the switches & the plastic. At this time, another desire emerged to have switches for turning off the individual outputs without turning off the manes, but this would have been a much more incremental benefit than the short circuit switches.


With it all installed twice, the switches pointed at the current dial when they were shorting & pointed at the voltage dial when they were open. This was the most intuitive orientation. They worked very briefly, at low voltages & all current up to 5A. When the voltage was set to 30V, the switches quickly failed closed.


The switches open by a spring force which the human has no control over. The human can merely press the spring to make contact, but the spring must break contact by its own force. The spring had arc welded to the contact. It could be broken apart & reassembled, for the most part. Despite being rated for 6A 120V, the switches still failed at 30V 5A.


The best the internet can come up with is 120V AC ratings being equivalent to 14V DC, because in AC there is a zero crossing after 8ms to break the arc while in DC, the arc can continue. While the power supply limits current when quiescent, there is a very high inrush current when short circuiting it. The Chinese must have encountered the same problem, said "f*ck it" in Chinese & left out the short circuit switches.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Today @ 01:09 AM | 798 Views
The lion kingdom long dreamed of a switch allowing a heat gun to blow cold air. It would cool hot glue. The deed was finally done. The wires were not intuitive. The big red & black pair didn't power the heating element, but probably powered the thermocouple. It was the tiny black pair connected to CON1.

Unfortunately, it takes a very long time for the heating element to cool off. The switch has to be off when it 1st comes on or it'll take 30 minutes to blow cold air. It does indeed cool hot glue.
Posted by Deserteagle | Today @ 12:32 AM | 849 Views
Always liked the look of the Atom V2 but not the price and some reports of ESC fires. Also the camera on the V2 was not customers first choice and many just complained or replaced them.

So why not just build your own I thought.

I started off I started with a budget of around $200 because I don't think a 130 sized copter should be more than that.

My choices for the build were the following

1. EMAX 1306 4k motors for $48 https://www.banggood.com/Emax-RS1306...p-1060943.html


2. Racestar 4in1 20A ESC $23 https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-R...l?rmmds=search


3. Genuine HGLTECH (careful of knockoffs!!!) F3 V4 Flight Control Board AIO 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable Transmitter OSD BEC PDB Current Sensor $42 https://www.banggood.com/F3-V4-Fligh...l?rmmds=search

...Continue Reading
Posted by rinoki71 | Yesterday @ 10:49 PM | 860 Views
Review and Test Drive of this inexpensive "Rat Rod" style 2WD Off-Road buggy.

8822G 1:12 "Alloy Speed Run" R/C Buggy (12 min 3 sec)

Posted by mfwilliams | Yesterday @ 08:56 PM | 952 Views
This Saturday was the "Longest Day" club picnic at the Tullahoma Coffee Airfoilers. Poh had sent me a note about it and I remembered the wonderful chili fun fly the club had last fall. So it didn’t take much of a nudge for me to drive the 48 miles down for a Southern homestyle dinner.
As always, the food was to die for. I spent about 3 hours munching and talking to the Tullahoma boys.
I had hoped to wait until nightfall to enjoy the scheduled “night fly”. But the wife called and was worried about me driving in the dark back to Murfreesboro, so I packed it in about 8pm.
Thanks Coffee Airfoilers
Great food and great flying
Mike...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Yesterday @ 08:44 PM | 920 Views
Running into some bad luck lately with FPV quads.

My favorite quad, the 100mm, has been down for a few days now due to an 'intermittent' dropout issue. First though it was a "loose" motor wire, apparently not because it is still dropping out of the sky at random. Thought it was a motor issue, nope...flight controller, nope. Looks like the issue is with the ESC but not just one, all 3 decided to die on me at different time. Yank all of the XM10A and threw it in the trash and replace it with LittleBee I had laying around. Seems to fix the issue...now it's flying not as "nice" as it was before and noob me did not copy the PID down before I decided to reflash the Piko BLX. It's flying okay but not the way I like it, not 'tracking' around corners as it was before. Did try to tune it a big yesterday but getting this stupid weird issue when I do a slow/large bank. Like it's 'auto' correcting itself. Come to find out the the XT60 connector might have been flapping and hitting the battery/frame...ran out of time to troubleshoot/fly so for now it sit and wait...



Second FPV quad is a 147 Verdin and after an 'upgrade' with a RunCam swift and vtx it flies like a drift car...it does not like the pod and the extra weight...haven't had time to tune it so it also sit and wait....



Finished a HellBender 122 with RacerStar 15A (discontinued) and it flew great until a small drop and ESC1 die....no clue why. Replace it and test it with 3S and 4S before taking it to the park yesterday. Two minutes into LOS flight to double check and down it goes. Manage to retrieve it and the whole thing is up in smoke. Look like ESC3 burst in flame. What the h***..............can it get worst???

So, my only flyable one are the Eachine 130, HobbyMate 130 and Micro. The Eachine 130 is a little under power and the HobbyMate need to go on a diet (I think) so my Micro is the only one that I fly and actually like at this point. Not a good month...........and getting frustrated with FPV...


Posted by Andrew Smith | Yesterday @ 06:02 PM | 987 Views
Hooray, Its here.

Ordered My Slite kit on Oct 18, 2016, Shipped on June 7 2017, left Germany on June 9, 2017, cleared Canadian customs on June 16, arrived at my door on June 20.

Started construction today June 24.

Both fixed ruddervator sections are done.
I am using glidermang's thread ( https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-RES-Sailplane ) as an aid.

Thanks for your detailed builds, Greg. I know it will be a great help as my build progresses.