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Out of the Box Dynam Retracts. Two Problems: 1. Mounting Plate too long. 2. Main Shaft too long. -
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As it is plastic, it was easy enough to trim the mounting plate to fit the F4U retract housing. -
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With the casing being too narrow to accept the retracts, I used my Dremel tool to remove about a 1/16" thickness from both interior sides. You will see that the casing wall is thicker between the holes. That extra thickness must be removed. -
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That left the support for the screw anchors dubious, so I reinforced them with balsa and epoxy. -
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Another view of the casing reinforcement -
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Now the retracts fit inside the casing, but not all the way down. For that, you need use your Dremel to round off all the retract edges. -
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A close up of the retracts in the casing, now refitted to the wings. I only used a moderate amount of epoxy around the perimeter of the casing...just case I might have to remove them later. Stock screws were replaced with stainless 4mm w/locking washers. -
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Remember I said the shaft was too long, so I cut enough off to leave about 1/4" beyond the axle center point. The axles are from Great Planes (GPMQ4280). I opted to use the PZ wheels, but they also needed to be drilled out to fit the 4mm shaft diam
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Views: 266
I used a rectangular brass bar (from Hardware Store) to retard the fore and aft play in the landing gear. It's epoxied inside the gear encasement. -
Views: 248
Another shot of the brass reinforcing rod inside the fuselage. Carbon fiber would have been my first choice, but the rod needs to have a 15 - 20% bend. -
Views: 288
While I did add aluminum spars to both wings, I also found that wing wires really help stablize the wings. -
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Another shot of the wing wires. Bottom wire is anchored at the top of the forward wing spars and passes through the front of the LG covers. Top wire is anchored at the bottom of the front spars and pass through a plastic anchor glued in the middle of