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I used electrical tape to cover the servo wires and to hold down the servo covers. -
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Here is the top of the turtle deck where I cut in the access hatch. The fit is very snug. -
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I used a popsicle stick, cut in half, for the front and a couple of magnets in the back to secure it. The fit is good and snug. Even without the magnets, I'm not sure it would go anywhere. I would have used a hatch latch but my LHS doesn't carry them. -
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I used another piece popsicle stick for a handle on the hatch. I cut a slit through the foam and used CA to glue in a piece of the stick so just enough to grab would protrude through the top. -
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I glued in a piece of 1/16 ply for a battery tray. I will use some velcro adhesive along the bottom, plus, secure in a velcro strap, as soon as I determine where the battery will need to be for propper CoG. I plan on running a 2200 30C 3S pack for now.
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The new motors are longer than stock, so I had to shave off some foam. You can see the plastic inserts in the foam that the stock screws used. I used these to also attach the new firewall. -
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Here is the foam I removed, along with the plastic firewall. -
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I made new firewalls out of 1/4" ply. A little hack, but it works and is hidden beneath the cowl. I used 6-32 blind nuts for the motor mount. I would have used 4-40, but my LHS only had a single pack. -
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This is the BP 2810-11 motor, 35-28 1200Kv. I got the prop adapters from Tower and the shaft is 1". Just long enough to fit the backplate and stock prop hubs. I reamed both out to 1/4" to fit the adapter. -
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Here is the firewall, attached with two screws from the stock mount and Gorilla Glue. -
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The new motor all mounted up and ready to go. I used washers for spacers between the motor X-mount and the new firewall. -
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Another view of the mounted motor. -
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With the washers, I was able to get proper spacing between the spinner backplate and the cowl.