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Posted by flipsideflyer | Dec 14, 2021 @ 05:00 PM | 7,692 Views
For many years, Iíve been intrigued about the guts inside the Traxxas EZ Start-2 wand. Iíve been using these to spin up the starters on both a Tmaxx 15 and a Tmaxx 3.3 truck for close to 15 years. Finally, one the wand had failed, and this gave me a chance to peek inside.

I proceeded by popping apart the various parts of the case by depressing the small locking tabs, then spreading the sides to remove the battery tray and exposing the underside of the circuit board. I was able to check the operation of pushbutton switch with an ohmmeter, and it measured OK.

At point I didnít care if I did any further damage to the wand, because the failure was obviously associated with one of the electronic components. So, I simply pulled the board free of the bodyÖbreaking the board at the base of the switch. Obviously, a more appropriate way of removing the circuit board, without damaging it, would be to first unsolder the two terminals of the pushbutton switch from the circuit board!

At any rate, I was pleased to find that thereís more is involved in making the EZ Start Wand than a just a simple switch!

Posted by flipsideflyer | Nov 24, 2021 @ 05:44 PM | 14,872 Views
Was way back in 2003 when my spouse and I brought home our very first TMaxx truck from the LHS. It was on 27MHZ and powered by a standard Traxxas Pro 15 engine. By the summer of 2004 it had been modified with a new body, extended A-arms, and a change to a lower primary gear ratio. Since then, the radio was swapped out for a 2.4MHz system, and it has been through a couple of different bodies, two engines, one fuel tank, and one set of tires. Not bad for nearly eighteen years of fun.

Wish I could remember the exact date and from whom the spouse and I purchased the second TMaxx truck. It was purchased used from a fellow RC Groups member sometime around 2010 or 2011. This time around it was the larger Traxxas TMaxx 3.3 model. It was in great condition, and it had already been modified by the previous owner with lots of extra, high-performance goodies. Similar to the smaller truck, over the past ten years this one has gone through a couple of different bodies, one clutch replacement, and just recently an engine replacement (its first). Not bad for over ten years of fun.

The photos below show the pair with various body configurations over the years.
Posted by flipsideflyer | Nov 18, 2021 @ 04:28 PM | 11,979 Views
This is my second assembly of a Precision Aerobatics XR 61T airplane. I thought I might take a minute to share several steps I’ve taken to make my assembly go smoother.

Right out of the box, and before doing anything else:

1. Gently remove the canopy from the fuselage and use CA or thin-epoxy to surface-harden the rear of the canopy in the area where the latch mechanism contacts the canopy. This prevents the latch pin from digging into and destroying the rear former while snapping the canopy in place. Use caution in handling the fuselage while the canopy is removed. The upper portion of the firewall is VERY fragile (see next step) and is prone to breakage!!

2. The top of the firewall is not only fragile, but also too exposed with the canopy removed and is prone to breakage during the assembly process. I’ve found that the plane doesn’t suffer from a little weight up front, so a stiffener is in order (see photos). Making sure to leave a small amount of clearance around the area where the motor box is to be installed, I made a paper template, then cut a doubler plate from 3/32" plywood. With the doubler temporarily in place, mark the holes for the canopy pins, do any fine-tuning of the shape, and double check that it won’t interfere with installation of the motor box. Drill out the holes for the canopy pins and attach the doubler to the front of the firewall (see photos) using thin CA.

3. Getting the gap between the top of the
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