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Posted by cynr100 | May 28, 2018 @ 08:04 AM | 3,419 Views
So a mate ask me to teach him how to "fly" a multi-rotor, what better way to begin than my simple tricopter (see "Not another Tricopter" blog).
With some very simple instructions he was up and flying simple point to point manoeuvres and is now totally addicted, tricopters have that affect on everyone I show.
Now his brothers want one and I have a 3D printer...!

This has been an ongoing project for the last 8 weeks just to make a simple tricopter frame in a single print and no small assistance was given by my mate RickC_RCAV8R. The frustrations of coding the SCAD and arriving at suitable print settings was overcome with Ric's assistance, I now have a frame I'm happy with to suit a 250mm size unit.
The "DennyCopter" is Ric's idea.

Simply a one piece frame held together with zipties and nylon nuts/bolts, arms of 10mm polltruded carbon or timber, ESCs with BEC, KK2.1.5 Mini with RC911 FW, Rotorbits yaw mech.
The simplicity is that it can be repaired with very little time and cost, an advantage for those just starting out.

Obviously not quite finished yet and with over sized props, waiting for new ESCs and shorter standoffs to arrive, also lacking helicopter landing skids still trying to source those.
Weight at this point is 240g, full rigged it should come in under 400g sans battery.

Now RickC_RCAV8R has taken this a few steps up and printed off his own .......... with come on Ric Blog up mate..!!
Posted by cynr100 | Mar 29, 2018 @ 01:54 AM | 4,536 Views
Really enjoyed my first Vampire, smashed it to pieces but still managed to glue it all back together. Then along came V2 and I had to have one, bought the frame in pieces as it was the cheapest option, only had to supply ESC, servos (3) and horns/clevises. Carbon stripes 1mmx6mm were used to strengthen the boom to wing structure and from experience of my flying style I also used CF strips as wing support. No under carriage installed as I wanted this to be a fun flier, the wheel holes will be left open as finger slots and the leg recesses will be filled with high density foam and glue in place to support the CF wing spare.
Wing tip spar also inserted and over laps the main wing spar by 40mm.
No need for a filler for the nose gear as purchasing the fuselage as a replacement it part comes with a neat foam fill already colour coded.
Bought a vent kit from HK to add a cheater hole to the top of the airframe, made a mess of this but it will suffice.
CA & kicker used all round with care taken to sand all paint from the contact surfaces. No canopy with this kit form so need to source the right soft drink bottle and experiment.
The CF won't make this bullet proof but should be enough to stop it folding up in high Gs.
Have to wait for a care package to arrive with some servo extensions before I glue it all together.
Posted by cynr100 | Nov 23, 2016 @ 08:24 AM | 5,990 Views
My Redback Talon Tri looked great, flew reasonably well (if flown within it's limits) and harassed the neighbourhood dogs from time to time with the lights.
But push it a little as I am want and things go wrong, stress fractures start to occur. So the rule is fly it gently, it is not an ACRO or racing machine, it still lives but only comes out for demos.
So............................................ it's back to my original T-Copter design based on 2 CF plates and 2 pultruded rods reinforced with wood dowels and gorilla glue.
The tail boom is fixed using bolts and nylock nuts, the front arm is drilled to take small zipties in line with the outer edges of the frame plate. In an "accident" the zipties will fracture releasing the front boom preventing damage to motors/ESCs.
The motors are attached also using zipties and again will dislodge under impact, with the motors not fixed rigidly also saves prop damage.
Yaw mech is RotorBits from HK mated to a Corona DS-939MG digital servo. The yaw mech is bolted to the tail boom but the servo is mounted again with a ziptie, in case of an impact the servo will dislodge saving it and the yaw mech. ESC are Afro slim line 20A, a separate BEC also needed to be installed to provide 5v power to the Rx, FC and servo.
The ESCs and SBEC are mounted between the frame plates.
The FC is a mini KK2.1.5 running KK2V1++-AiO_R7 firmware from RC911, extremely stable factory settings which only need adjustments to stick scaling and self...Continue Reading
Posted by cynr100 | Aug 16, 2016 @ 07:32 AM | 5,162 Views
After more than enough crashes with my Turnigy Talon Tricopter I came to realise that it's size and my flying style did not mix. I prefer 300 to 400 size frames so after cleaning off the mud, dirt and broken bits the arms were attacked for a reduction of 80mm all round.
I also wanted some protection for my electronics after having destroyed the FC, antenna rig and Rx in the last "event", a deep dive into my box of bits produced a Bumblebee frame cap. Some "extra" lights to scare the kids were purchased on a whim.
So with some assistance from the Groundcrew Chief the Talon Redback was born.
BirdDog 900kv motors
Afro 20A slim line ESCs running BLHeli
Turnigy 5A SBEC
KK2.1.5 mini running RC911 FW with standard settings except Stick Scaling at 70, 70, 90.
Corona 9g digital metal servo
2 x 3W single LEDs
1 Short corncob LED
Turnigy Headlight system
FrSky V8FrII Rx
GemFan 10x5 E props
4S 1800mAh batt for 7min flight time
AUW 740g plus battery

Normally I would run 8x4 SF props on anything under 400 size but prior to the last crash the Talon handled acceptably on these new GemFan 10x5E props so I thought I give the RedBack a run with them.

A short story in pictures:
Posted by cynr100 | May 04, 2016 @ 05:54 PM | 6,019 Views
So another successful drive from Cairns to Brisbane this year, only that we survived, on a personal note it was not but that is not for here.

To show my international friends some of our country I instructed the co-pilot to be ready at all times for photo opportunities, not just sit and read or take naps .
After lots of nudging, cajoling and yelling quite a few shots were taken, then it was my job to scrutinise and collate to something of a travel history.
Well......................................... ........that all came undone, 300+ became 43 after my edit/re-size/labelling. Not sure what happened but 257 have disappeared.............poof!!............gone , nowhere to be found.

So here are the remainder......................................... ....
Posted by cynr100 | Mar 08, 2016 @ 02:38 AM | 6,002 Views
Have wanted one of these for ages, such a great looking plane, so jumped on the recent specials and grabbed one for half price.
Posted by cynr100 | Dec 22, 2015 @ 04:11 PM | 8,740 Views
So the wet season is upon us and could be very little flying so I started working on the GWS Me 262.
I bought this from a friend, although 2nd/3rd hand it was still BNIB and came with some no name ESCs and EDFs. Normally I would have a foamie up and flying in 2 days but am holding back the pace on this one.

So far the fuse is glued as are wings and nacelles with EDFs and ESCs fitted. The plans show the ESCs installed in the fuse but there is very little cool vents taking place except for the cannon ports, so I installed them in the nacelles. The ESCs are only hot glued as are the nacelles so if the power units don't work out it will be easy to dismantle and replace.

I have played with some water based kids acrylic colours with a coat of light blue/grey underneath. I couldn't find a foam brush on the day but I had an old shaving cream brush seems to have the desired effect.
These acrylics are not very hardy or water proof but give me a good range of colours, as I was planning to top coat with Min Wax I will be mixing my colours using Min Wax as the base.

Next to install are the servos with white colour tape to cover then a final colour/finish coat before installing the nacelles.
More to come
Posted by cynr100 | Apr 18, 2015 @ 09:20 PM | 8,320 Views
A little while ago I drop a vid in the Tricopter thread show 3 basic yaw mechanisms and explained what I thought were their pros & cons. It was a very simplistic view on my part without due test & trials, what I thought would improve yaw speed was nothing of the sort.

Not sure why I did this but I started to test different props on my CFT400 tricopter running a KK2.1.5 with Steveis v1.19s starting with stock (factory) settings and adjusting gains to improve flight control.

Now in the process of this experiment I came to the conclusion that having a yaw mech that can exceed 45deg each side of the vertical was all put useless as the FC did not require that extreme. Not until I slowed the videos down was I aware, nor in the same process was I aware how much input the FC does to the yaw servo independent of your stick inputs. The FC really does all the hard work.

3 types of props were selected (pretty much stock on hand) HQ brand Multirotor 8 x 4.5 polycarbonate, HobbyKing knockoff DJI 9443 in soft plastic and a no name plastic 8 x 4.5 slow fly. The yaw mech, David Windestal's steering knuckle.

I had been running the HQs for some time and the tri was tuned using them so I reset all to factory and started again. I settled on only adjusting SL gain, basically for the new guys, hopefully give them an insight in what to expect and how much adjustment would be required for safe flight.

The differences in flight were very apparent on factory sets and gain...Continue Reading
Posted by cynr100 | Jul 04, 2014 @ 12:40 AM | 8,335 Views
Check out my MR builds at

The build principles are simple and easy, I use Stunt Doubles tricopter calculator and the KK2.1 with the latest Steveis firmware, just wish it had a baro function
Posted by cynr100 | Oct 09, 2013 @ 05:04 PM | 9,452 Views
I'll start a separate blog for the QBrain itself as the first setup test failed.
So far:

The Turnigy program card will work BUT you have to program each ESC individually the "hub" connector worked on two only.

Program throttle ends points individually again not with the "hub".

No luck with the KK2.0 board, incessant beeping and no throttle, KK board shows no throttle input.
With direct connection to a Rx throttles work!! more investigation to be done on the KK2.0

Rudder servo not working.


Calibrate the ESC using buttons 1 & 4 on the KK2.0, hold down before connecting battery wait for a single peep then move throttle to off, acknowledgement peeps followed by a single peep should be heard.

When setting up as a Tri Copter power needs to be provided to M2 or M8 to provide power to the servo at M4, power to M1 is still required.
M1 to M8 are not ALL connected as stated in the original KK2.0 setup
. I just destroyed 2 not 1 but 2, KK2.0 boards following this power setup.
I was just a plain dumbass, DO NOT provide power to the M (right) side of the KK2.0. Power to M1 & M2 or M8 only provides magic smoke.
Power to the board can be provided at port 5 of the RX.
Posted by cynr100 | Sep 27, 2013 @ 08:23 PM | 9,186 Views
The bedding of a new project mating an MD500 scale body to a Tri-Copter.
The build is to be around Bird Dog 900kv motors, BD 10x5 props on a KK2.0 board.
Will start with this pic where the idea came from.

CF tubes and plate has arrived along with the HK QBrain 4x20ESC. Here's a pic along side a Turnigy 18A ESC, the QBrain is larger than I expected and it is not going to be a weight saver. At 112g it doesn't save weight on a Turnigy 18A @ 19g nor even a 30A @ 25g, oh well a few dollars saved only.\

A very quick scratch built tri was setup to test the QBrain which has turned into a "No QBrainer" so I have started a separate blog to sort the issues before I start cutting and installing any CF to the MD500, I may yet have to go with 3 ESCs

Disaster, see above, toasted my 2 KK2.0 boards. Will be ordering Turnigy 30A ESCs for this project. In the meantime will start working on the CF rods and plate for fixing to the fuselage.

Coming along now with CF rods and plate cute to size and dry fitted, will probably go with a silicon adhesive to fix to the shell.

Sikaflexed the CF frame to the FG body, something looks crooked. Can't quite get that square look to the skids, shouldn't affect flight performance. If it starts to annoy me I'll remount the frame.
KK2.0 board, power dissy, ESC's and 2 JST outlets installed. The dizzy is velcroed to the CF frame and each ESC will be velcroed to the fuselage.

Bird Dogs on and wiring sorted, a NEW...Continue Reading
Posted by cynr100 | Sep 27, 2013 @ 05:26 PM | 9,327 Views
Just a few changes from the first build. She now has a TBS Core because I want to run a 4S but only need 12v for the 600TVL and Vtx.
Have also gone for the all black arms, circa Mongrel Gear.
Have ordered a AEE Magicam so whilst waiting I'm using the trusty HK Wingcam which suffers from jello. After experimenting with different types of anti vib pads I have reverted back to the trusty pool noodle foam, its looks bogan but is very effective.
I was told to go with 10x5 props but noticed that things were a little warm and she was a little hesitant in flight. I have now gone back to 9x5s, running gear is cool and flight is a little more sure footed. I have lost about 1 minute of flight time but I have also change the low battery settings so that now I finish with 35% rather than <10%. I'm not going backwards to do comparisons, if I get 6-8 minutes flight from a 3S 3300 pack I should be more than happy with 4S 4500, it's not a fing competition.
Not getting much flight time, and then only in my yard, due to a knee op. Another few weeks and she'll be right .

Desperate to get some leg extensions as wet season is coming on and where I fly does not get mowed that often. Searched around and the only ones I could come up with were from HK International W/h too expensive with freight
I had some 10x10 box CF left over from the NewsCopter and came up with this as a temp measure, I think it might be permanent.
Posted by cynr100 | Aug 20, 2013 @ 04:20 AM | 9,328 Views
There's plenty of examples out there of TBS Disco builds , just so I don't get left out here's mine.
All the gear was sourced from I have gone without the "Core" unit as funds did not stretch that far

TBS plates
Bird Dog 900kv motors
Bird Dog 30A Optos with SK f/ware
Naza-M Lite with GPS
Bird Dog 9x5 CF props

I'll get it up and running before adding my FPV, Sony 600TVL,Hornet OSD and Fatshark Vtx
In reality a very simple build once you sort out wire orders and locations.

So far