Jyester's blog View Details
Posted by Jyester | Sep 30, 2019 @ 09:17 AM | 5,131 Views
This is the maiden flight of the chuck glider conversion into a fly wing type plane. Rcx 14xx 3200kv motor, 12A esc, x2 Jx 5.6g Ds/mg servo's and a 4ch frsky rx. Weight with 2s 300ma pack 77.6g. Will 600ma 2s it came in at 89g and flew very well. It's even faster on 3s
For some.e reason i can't upload the video, i think it maybe to long, not sure why
Posted by Jyester | Sep 27, 2019 @ 09:18 AM | 5,171 Views
As of late i have found a new, well not totally new but a new love for me. I like gliders theirs something about them that i love, and i think its the lack of a power system. Totally gliding on air has to be the coolest thing.
Recently i attended a FPV event in Stephenstown, NY the event was NEFPV Feat meet. This year we had close to 75 pilots that showed u for one, two, three and four days for this event. I had converted large chuck glider to rc and it flew awesome! At the event they were passing out little chuck gliders, so i snatched a couple.
I wanted to make something different and i figured something easy not to complexed. So i mad a Groggen look alike out of the chuckie. It's very easy to do and take very little time and efford to convert and you will need basic tools and some aerocell foam strickly for the TE and possibly the vertical fin other than that some small lightweight items such as servos and power system are needed. Being that its small quad gear maybe the easiest to install, as i used 5.6g servos and my power system motor esc only weighed 23.8 grams, and the plane with servos install and cf spar came in at 43.2g .
Some pics of the build and power system just to show you what can be done. I will also add in photos f a swept wing version im working on also. Hope you guys like what can be done with any chuck glider. The blue one is the Baby...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Apr 26, 2019 @ 09:54 AM | 4,775 Views
Hello all i recently upgraded my DYS xdr220 with a HGLRC f4proV6 aio board. The old board was a dinosaur compared to whats on the market today. I didnt want to break the bank or buy something that had a bunch of features i was not going to use.
The HGLRC f4proV6 board is a aio(all in one) meaning it has current sensor, filtered cam/vtx for best possible picture clearness. The board is 6S capable and will except up too 200A, thats a big wow!! The board out of the package came with antenna connector or extension, buzzer, and a cap which needs to be soldered on. The board layout is very easy to follow as it has two ports for wiring in your Rx a no brainer, and lights and buzzer if you want lights, the buzzer is a must. The vtx is integrated into the board and all you need to do is solder your camera's wires to the board and your in business. Soldering the esc's to the board is also a no brainer and i like the fact that you can solder the negativer or ground wires together on the same pad, as there is a single pad for the signal wire. It only took me 15 minutes to solder all wires to the board as they were already in place from when i removed the main dys aio board that came with the 220. I had to drill a hole in the top back of the canopy for the antenna extension cable to be mounted and it came out clean. I needed about 8 small nylon stand offs to mount the board to the frame and also to raise the canopy a little as i wanted plenty of air to flow over the board. I need to...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Oct 02, 2016 @ 10:47 PM | 12,630 Views
Hello all I recently purchased a new little Vrx as my Immersion was way to big for my homemade goggles. I must say this little Vrx is in my opinion the next step. The push button channel/band change is Awesome!! I must say this is not a plug and play unit as it took a little figuring out. I ended up using the set of wires that had the balance plug lead on it as this was the most practical choice. With this unit I got rid of more than a few wires, and still need to clean up the look. I do need to get in some range testing but so far the quality of the product looks and feels solid.

As a little added protection I did add some clear heat shrink rap I just did't feel rite adding Velcro directly to the heat sink. The plug end that go's into the vrx that had the balance plug had three wires that i basically connect with a servo plug end(male). I did this to wire in to my new HMDVR that showed up around the same time so it also had a wire harness that had to be soldered up. This little dvr needs 5v and the fact that the Vrx had 5v out put made this a very easy job to wire into the vrx . So now I can unplug this unit at the end of the day , with out worry. I do still need to clean up the rca monitor wire as it is fairly long. I also plan on using the Vout wire coming from the DVR to be able to plug into the monitor and review footage with out removing the microSD card. I intend on making that plug removable by adding another servo plug end to the end of a RCA plug as I cut two of the plug's off of the one that came with the Vrx.

Finishing up I would recommend this little unit as it saves space and sure to get others to admire it and ask questions. Thanks for reading Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty
Posted by Jyester | Sep 06, 2016 @ 08:08 PM | 12,762 Views
I had a friend who bought a Drak and did not use the forward winglets/canard. So I saw the potential and quickly asked for them, he gladly gave them too me because he knew I could work some magic. So far this is what I've come up with so far. feel free to comment as this is a work in progress. If all go's well I do intend on adding micro fpv gear??
Posted by Jyester | Sep 05, 2016 @ 10:51 AM | 14,056 Views
This is a mini how to entry on the old Hobby zone champ that we've come to know and love. It's a great flying little plane with no bad habits, and can be used as a trainer for the first time pilots. I have started to hop-up this champ in hopes to compete against the Champ S. So the first thing you need to do if your champ is still in good shape, is open up the fuse. Be careful as not to peal of the tape and the paint at the same time it's "tricky" go slow!! Once open remove main board and motor/gearbox combo, leaving only the pushrods for the elevator and rudder. I had these laying around so I used them HK 5330 servo's they are small at 1.9g and provide plenty of torque for this plane. I cut a slot in both sides of fuse where the main board was situated. Doing this makes hooking the pushrods up easy as the arms are in the same spot as the linear servo's were! Next I found a small 5-10 amp esc and hot glued it to the fuse floor between the servo's and ran the power lead wire through the same hole that the original power lead passed through. I had a HK Rx415 rx which excepts the plug ends of the servo which I think are micro jst plug. You may need to purchase a connector if the signal lead wire on your esc is jr/fut style. I hot glued the rx behind the servo's as you will see from pics. This is as far as I got as i'm waiting on the 8mm brushless motor from horizon hobby to show up, this will not only add more power but also extend your flight times as your using...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Sep 28, 2015 @ 08:36 PM | 13,756 Views
Came across a Carl Goldberg models Mig 27 target drone, let me say this it is one big foam plane. The Ws is 66" and the fuse is 77" all foam. I have seen a build blog/log of one of these planes and I must say it was cool, and it had a Wow factor just sitting still. I have seen a few electric puller set-up's and mostly glow, I must say the afore mentioned build was EDF. So I plane to follow in his foot steps so to speak and possibly make my mark also when it come to this plane. The job seems straight forward but I want to include ducting for smoother airflow and maybe some extra speed to boot!!

So my question to any and all builders especially edf guy's where can I find some ducting? I checked EJF but seems they are out of business, but they did have some useful info about ducting. My plan includes a 127mm fan unit, a bearing system for a fully flying elevator, and retracts. Also some carbon reinforcements along the fuse, wing tube spars. Some ply wood formers to stiffen and strengthen inside of the fuse and to hold down the ducting. This will also allow me to run push rods back to the tail section and some servo leads for the rudder and ailerons. As you can see I have been mapping things out.
Power system is next I need at least 14-18 lb of thrust and that might be pushing it, I plan on keeping this build as light as possible so I can get as much speed as I can after all it is a jet!! I saw and here a lot of builders/flyers of these planes are using 61-91...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Apr 28, 2014 @ 06:09 PM | 14,519 Views
Looking for power system suggestions for my fun jet V1. I was thinking a stryker motor or power system but i know i can do better. I'm thinking a hi-max motor or something in the 3000 kv range, with about 500 or more imput watts. I need 100+ speed or faster!! Lets see what people are thinking and help would be appreciated Thanks.
Posted by Jyester | Sep 30, 2013 @ 09:27 PM | 22,213 Views
Before I start I'd like to thank John "the wall" Ryan for passing along a gift. The hobbyking free flight glider has a hotliner look to it and sports a V tail. It's your typical foam glider with a one piece wing and fuse with the V tail being held on with double sided tape. It's super simple to assemble and with the add ballast ball under the canopy it gets a good glide. It would be perfect for any child 5-8 yrs old. I started out with the canopy/cockpit area, cutting out foam with a hobby knife and awl. The task is simple go as far down as you can without weakening the nose. I made the opening about a 1/16 of an inch over a inch wide and 1 3/4 long and about a 1/2 inch deep. You'll see in the pics I have plenty of room. Next I focused on the battery bay/hatch I made it big enough to go either 250mah or 350mah. After removing enough foam I needed to open up a hole to pass wires through into the cockpit where the Esc and Rx will reside. I moved to the nose and mounting the motor. I went with the old tried and true rimfire 200 it has plenty of power and can swing a 7x4 prop. I used a dremel tool after removing about a inch off of the nose. I then took my dremel and a sanding drum and went at the middle slowly so it didn't bite at the foam. As it sunk in I started to move in a circular motion to open up the hole. I then made a hole for the motor wires to pass into the cockpit. I then made a ply disc to use as a mount. I had to trim a little here and there till it fit...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Aug 26, 2013 @ 09:15 PM | 15,526 Views
I bought a mustang from a Rcg user and after opening the box I was amazed! The wing looks, and feels strong and solid. The fuse came in two halves that have to be glued together. Before I started to glue things together I first worked out my power system lay-out. I need stand off to get the motor up front inthe nose of the cowl. I opted to use a PZ 480 and Eflite 30A pro Esc. For servos I went with PZ mg servos for all surfaces. To get my location for mounting the motor stand-offs I simply put the plane halves together with the fire wall in the front. I then place the cowl on after opening it up. Placed a ruler on the fire wall and got the distance and noted the mounting whole pattern. I then took the plane apart laid the firewall on the table and place the mount on top of firewall and marked all four wholes. The placed it back into the halves and noted that both top whole were hidden by foam. So I relieved some foam from the corners of the fuse and bamm! I had what I needed. I then ran down to the LHS and had the owner Joe cut and drill solid stock aluminum. Some 4-40 hex bolts and blind nuts and I had a solid motor mount. So while I was there I started to glue the halves together with FS Ca no kicker! I got as far as the cockpit and stopped. After getting home I made (2) 1/16 ply wood trays 1 for the elevator/ rudder and 1 for the battery tray. I used foam tac clue and gorilla glue to Finnish of the plane. The gorilla clue was used on the battery tray only! I buttoned up...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | Jul 28, 2013 @ 06:28 PM | 16,977 Views
I've been flying the visionaire for some time now and I live it. How ever it's lacking in power and I want to move up in prop size so I opted to switch out the stock Eflite 10 motor for a value hobby G25 motor. I tried this motor with a 40 amp esc and it was to much. So I started searching rc groups classified ads and found a hobbywing 60 amp esc for $35. Talk about a deal! I have to get the connectors changed but other than that I think she will fly better than stock. I'm looking for torque not speed so I'm gonna go with a 12x9 or 12x10 prop. The stock prop was 12x5.5 which gets her off the ground and flys her pretty good but if your gonna hover do it in the first few minutes the battery only last about 5-8 minutes of mixed flying. If you can't afford to up grade motor/esc then change the battery to a 2650-3300 pack this will give you the extra flight time and some extra power. The price for the motor from value hobby was $27 think my biggest cost is gonna be the battery I like Tp packs but sky lipo zippy and turnigy a-spec and nano techs are all good batteries is a choice I'm gonna have to make. I will up-date this blog once I get everything worked out. Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty


Posted by Jyester | Jul 27, 2013 @ 01:22 PM | 15,481 Views
this is the esc i was talking about thanks
Posted by Jyester | Jul 27, 2013 @ 01:06 PM | 15,510 Views
these are the motors im talking about let me know thanks!
Posted by Jyester | Jun 01, 2013 @ 07:32 PM | 15,118 Views
I've been hanging with a couple of friends one day a week at a lake here in Mass. This is boat night and I must say the water is calling me. So I decided to try and have the best of both worlds. I'm going to take a converted ar6400 board that I added a brushless set-up to and place it inside the champ fuse. I'm only doing this so I can mount a set of CC floats on it. What I'm working on now in my head is the aileron set-up! Figure I need some small diameter wire for torque rods and a bell crank single servo like the one from the sukhoi. I think it will work nicely! Hopefully this plan does come together. It's suppose to rain tomorrow so I figure good time as any! I think my only possibly issues would be those ailerons! Do I make them full span or keep them outboard on the wing as they are? Could I do a dual servo set-up on a y harness? I know some of you might be thinking about weight, as an issue but this system is lite weight, the board it self is 5 grm, the motor & esc 10 grm. The champ board is about that and I would convert it to brushless if I could??? Help me out here! Has anyone converted a champ board to brushless? This way I could leave the control the same and still have the power need to get off the water. This is just part of the hobby and the reasons why I love it. Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty!
Posted by Jyester | May 29, 2013 @ 07:53 PM | 16,221 Views
I recently came into possession of a visionaire and I'm not a spectrum kind of guy! Me fly futuba, 6J to be exact! The econo box as my flying buddies call it. All of hoom fly yup! Spectrum! Now I'm not downing the radio I had one and lost two planes and that was it for me. Back to the visionaire, she does fly great without the "system" I had to make some adjustments. I dialed down the elevator to 60% because my first flight was eye opening the recommended throws listed for dual rates are spot on except for the elevator. The elevator itself his huge, and I understand the 3D aspect of it. The rudder is big too and at 70% she does the job well. Snap rolls are perfect! Loops almost snap at full elevator! The ailerons are a perfect addition to the alread huge wing, this thing has plenty of wing area without running the number. The motor performs well on stock battery but you might wanna grab some 45-60c 2200 3s if you have a 2500 or in that area your ok as long as you allow things to cool down. The higher C rating allows you to pull all kinds of vertical maneuvers , hover with get out of trouble power. The stock battery soon as you take off hover because a few minutes in and your not going to be able to. Did I mention I'm doing these things without the as3x system! Flying into the wind you get plenty of lift! With the wind she's buffeting feeling the turbulence of flying on a windy day. With the as3x your not going to see it as much. Landings are just as easy as the...Continue Reading
Posted by Jyester | May 21, 2013 @ 06:57 PM | 15,669 Views
It's a rainy day here in the northeast, so I decided to build a v2 of the ray. Flight test have shown that the kf airfoil not needed. After moving the battery forward past the CG and i was still getting a lot of lift into the wind, I could only fly at or below half throttle. The second thing I noticed was how the plane would bank in a turn which leads me to believe the frame was to flimsy 3mm epp with 3mm depron for the LE kf airfoil and some along the sides of the vertical portion as stiffeners. I also used some 1mm carbon rod to stiffen the vertical fin/rudder. V2 will see the same servo set up as in V1 with the battery located on the bottom possibly! I'll keep the Rx and esc on the bottom. Thinking about cutting a box for the battery or opening a box vertical/horizontal square this will add better protection from possible crashes. I'm using 6mm aerocell with flat spar, I'm also going to use hinges don't know if I'm going to use pin type or flat strips with some Fsafe Ca. I like the pin type myself, and tape for the rudder only. Hopefully I will loose a lot of the lift I was getting and she will fly more flat and exhibit a better roll rate as she seemed sluggish. One positive note v1.2 does fly well inverted. I'll post some pics tomorrow . She could possibly be done tomorrow if this weather keeps up. Love this hobby!!! Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty
Posted by Jyester | May 18, 2013 @ 09:04 AM | 16,745 Views
Hello again I have successfully swapped out the fan unit and replaced it with a Rimfire 150 motor. This little motor has proven it self by powering my fox glider. So this plane should fly without any hick-ups, I hope! There are always unforeseen events when testing out new plane especially scratchbuilt planes. This will be fun either way I love it when a plan come together or in this case a plane comes together. Hopefully I can get someone to video this flying session, maybe the wife will hold the camera while I fly!! Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty.
Posted by Jyester | May 14, 2013 @ 07:53 PM | 18,910 Views
The cosmic ray will be dismantled is to much thrust is being lots! The ray flys! The ray also has some bad habits that I'm not going to get in to, but it does fly. Turns were relaxed and on low rates seemed perfect but give full throttle and the placement of the fan to much air blowing above the centerline which I think was causing flutter of the surfaces with may have caused the controls to become in-effective! I say this because the plane did not fly fast in fact it was the same speed as a PZ champ, go figure!! I like to try things, and I love doing it. I will try this set-up in a wing type plane it's a point of size, weight, and finding the rite balance point to achieve flight. As for the cosmic ray I will resurrect her! It! Him! Fly high,fly fast,crash petty
Posted by Jyester | May 11, 2013 @ 04:52 PM | 17,961 Views
The cosmic ray was built to look like a futuristic plane , Having crashed my anylink f-86 I decided not to re-build but create. She looks like something out of Star Wars she's a Elevon and rudder plane the fan unit is out front in the wind and danger if she doesn't fly!!! The front was the only logic placement for the fan unit as most delta wing planes and wing planes period are tail heavy. Having no real weight up front besides the servos, esc, and Rec. I realized I needed the fan out front for balance. Everything electrical is hooked up. Working on control linkages Which sould not be a problem as I have all cennectors from saber. Pic will follow shortly. The fuse is a oval wing shape glide test with for pennies showed a good stable glide without falling of or dropping. Made out of 3mm epp with kf leading edge made with 3mm Cellufoam. The vertical portion of the body has the cockpit out back just in front of the rudder kinda looks like the gee bee race in likeness. Carbon flat spare

with another peice out back for stiffness. The Elevons have 1mm Carbon rods glued to bottom with 1mm carbon rod running span wise. I have a small piece
of 6mm epp up front on the bottom center line as a skid plate. I like the
electronics out of the saber nice and small, light weight servos only weighed 6.6
grams together the fan/ esc weighed about 13-15 grams the Rec. was 3grams
or so. The first flight could be an adventure!! The auw now without battery is 31.5 grms Fly high, fly fast, crash pretty. Later
Posted by Jyester | Jan 30, 2013 @ 10:05 AM | 16,235 Views
I bought a dx5e to try out the micro gear that has flooded the hobby scene. Ar6400 to be exact. I found that the mix does not work for Elevons, the only way to get this to work was with a Dx6i. A friend and hobby shop owner told me the only way to get that mix to work is to put on control surface horn on top and one on the bottom. So I left the aileron horn on the bottom and move the elevator horn on the top of the surface. Connection was made with a step or a larger Z bend which pasted through a slot at the trailing edge of the wing. Low and behold it worked. As I was testing I noted that the travel of the aileron wasn't much but up/down elevator had enough throw both ways. I talk to a friend and after checking things out he said it has to be that way so the servo doesn't get maxed out, because it's acting in two functions in that mix. So if your still trying to get that to work this is how. Fly high, fly fast, cash pretty