Seeing I was ordering some stuff from HobbyKing, I decided to also grab the "Fighter R/C jet white EPO (KIT)", seeing was only $29 ! Though the shipping addition is almost as much as the plane itself! Offset by other items it worked out to about AU$45 cost.
I had read lots of things here and there about this plane, some places I was not sure if it was this one, or the "Phase 3", which might all be the same anyway - I don't know. But it looked the same....

I had recently bought the 64mm T-45 Hawk kit, for about AU$57, and it is rubbish!! So when I got this kit it was chalk and cheese! This thing is well designed, everything well thought out and adequate! So it was a great base to work from.

I pondered over it and made a list of things to do, and how to do them.... then I was off and at it!

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This blog will cover mods and setup that I have done to the Freewing Su-35.
It is a very nice plane just as it comes, though as with all PNF's there are some shortfalls. But not many in this case. It probably could be flown just as it comes, with a pretty high chance of success/reliability... though it is really safer/smarter to always go over PNF's to make sure it is really airworthy/safe/ reliable, or else there will be a big bang at some stage!! And confetti foam everywhere.....

Because this plane was actually done many months ago, the order of mods etc could be amiss. For most of them that is not important anyway. And maybe I will forget some that I did.... but even if so, I will try to add them later when I do remember!

So for a start, if you like Sukhoi's or Migs, then this is a great option!! I think it looks awesome (like a Mig-29 does too) and Freewing has used some of the latest innovations of making modelling easier for users.
I think it is a 10/10 plane!! But none ever some truly perfect, and thus why there are always things to do that can improve them, and make them more reliable and last longer!

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My list of 'good to do' mods: Start with the ARF !!!
1) Plywood sub-frame - full length from nose gear bay to rear end
2) Heavier Alloy main gear struts - alloy hub wheels (stock can split hubs)
3) Lander alloy retracts - slower operation and 'all metal'
4) Wemo EVO, DrMad 2200kv, on 7S with 60/70Amp HK SS Series ESC (otherwise 100A HV to enable 8S 4000Watts)
5) All servos digital MG (HK15178B and HK17148B)
6) Larger battery hatch - side wings and lengthwise
7) Elevator fuselage mount plates/bolts for strength
8) Vertical Fin carbon fiber rods and fuselage mounting system for strength

Options:
Nose gear fuselage shock absorber.
Leading Edge Flaps (more academic than a necessity).
Backbone AirBrake - this actual Su model did not really have that.

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If you have ever used Pull-Pull wire steering on a model, you will have encountered its major flaw. SLOP. No matter how well you set that up initially, the wires will not remain taught for too long! Any slight landing gear leg bend (or retract pin) means there will then be slop.
A second issue is that there is nothing to keep the leg in the straight position once the leg begins to retract and the wires go slack. So the wheel can turn off to a side and then bind/hit the wheel bay side etc.. Some people have added 'spring' ideas to assist this issue, but that has small issues too, plus is quite hard to set up well.

Meanwhile Pushrod steering gives a 100% solid, permanent, solution. So there is no contest...... "100% reliable", versus "Messy and fraught with issues". Pushrod versus Pull-Pull.

One main problem I see around is that very few people seem to be able to work out WHAT is required in a Pushrod system. and how to implement and set it up correctly, so as to arrive at that 100% working system!
So this Blog entry is to outline what I do for mine.....

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Just a first "pretty poor", but still useful, video of my Durafly DH-100 Vampire.
I will replace it with better videos when I get one! (soon hopefully).

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Vampire01 (2 min 16 sec)

Durafly (all but surely made by FMS) have a whole range of great aircraft. The Vampire DH-100 is not only one of the nicest - they are all very nice - but a great flying, and awesome sounding EDF jet!! As close as you can get to having a real jet sound from an EDF jet!! Well, more so if you use a CS10 or CS12 fan unit in it!!

I have used my favourite "Mid Power, LOW cost" EDF setup in this plane:
The CS10 with Turnigy L2855-2300kv motor, running from 5S 3000mAH 20C batteries (mostly). The whole motor, fan and one battery cost is just $50 !!
And it flies, and sounds AWESOME.... I don't think I would recommended any other EDF jet as highly! Quite cheap, and just a full modellers delight in result!
I don't mean ONLY get one of these... just make sure you HAVE one of these!! LOL

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A few videos of the Dynam 1200mm Spitfire, fitted with the MrRCsound Pro_A sound system.
Pretty lousy flight video! But I will change that to a better one eventually.
I guess the installation video is pretty poor and dark too!

My Spitfire has had a hard life!! Two big crashes in its early days - one from an unknown spiral/spin to the ground from the top of a lowish loop, and one from a failed battery and loss of power which was at a very inopportune time! Both cases snapped a wing, and more.
But after its repairs it still looks quite good all in all, and flies totally fine still!! A very nice scale plane to see and HEAR flying around!!

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Spitfire with MrRCSound demo (2 min 43 sec)

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Spitfire01 (1 min 28 sec)

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The Starmax 90mm F-16 PNF is a beautiful model!! More so if you like F-16's!!
I think they just have this almost classic look to them - a bit of this or that in them, but also a unique end result.

The paint finish of the kit is fantastic - whether in the all-grey camo version, or the blue-grey camo version. I chose the blue-grey, but I like either really!

It comes with AIR retracts, and with so many electric retract options these days, that is a far nicer system to have. Slower operation - not a "SNAP" and they are in, or out!
But as it turned out, setting up a good retract/oleo system was a pretty big task!! (more later of course).

I did a number of "improvements" to the base design - as I always do. To ensure proper operation, flying, and reliability of the plane. I try to cover ALL possibilities BEFORE they are ever going to happen! So I am yet to have a "Oh dear, this thing broke (or whatever) and it crashed.....". LOL

I also had about ZERO faith in the Starmax EDF unit, so even before I bought it I had intentions of going to a CS12 90mm fan unit. Though along the way some issues with those units have turned up (they can EXPLODE! LOL) so I am yet to finalise exactly what will be in the first test flight version! It will be a CS12, but I had a Turnigy 3025-1500kv motor installed in a 'early' CS12 unit, which may, or may not, be safe to use!
I also have a 1600kv 'new stronger' CS12 unit allocated for this F-16.... but I am tossing up on the odds of my 'early' CS12 being fine, because the flawed ones are beleived to have been from later batches than that one.
Eeeny, meeeny, miny, mo !!!

So next I will look at the F-16 and what it 'needs' done to it.....

Well this is certainly an "old" kit..... first out in 2007 ?
And although there are numerous videos around, not many people talk about it or own up to having one! LOL

I didn't read up on it before buying it and whilst I was waiting for it to arrive I did come across the one lonely thread about it. And that made it seem it had not been such a great idea to get one - versus the many other choices of aircraft (even any other HTG ones alone).

But anyway.... I have it now. And after a bit of checking it over, and the info from the Jepe kit build log, I will press on. With fair belief it will end up quite a nice looking F-22... that should even fly well.

The MrRCsound Pro_A sound system...
This is an AWESOME addition to a plane! This transforms RC aircraft 'modelling' massively!! You are now flying a model that not only LOOKS like the real aircraft, but can SOUND very much like it too!!!
Once you have used one, you almost wince when flying electric aircraft that don't have one!!
I even wince at Internal Combustion models!! LOL. Because that little screaming motor is nothing like a real one either!! The electric motor powered aircraft, with a sound system, is a clear scale model winner!!

More to come.....

This is a very nice CHEAP kit. Typical of pretty well all Dynam's very nice balance of "Nicely done, cost effective, but keep things basic". At $117 in Australia, it is a great value plane... even if you just built it and flew it as it comes!
But as usual, I go over everything... and do 'improvements' to make sure it is properly airworthy and going to operate and fly PROPERLY and ONGOING!

I also added the MrRCsound Pro_A sound system... and this is an AWESOME addition to a plane! This transforms RC aircraft 'modelling' massively!! You are now flying a model that not only LOOKS like the real aircraft, but can SOUND very much like it too!!!
Once you have used one, you almost wince when flying electric aircraft that don't have one!!
I even wince at IC (Internal Combustion) models!! LOL. Because that little screaming motor is nothing like a real one either!! The electric motor powered aircraft, with a sound system, is a clear scale model winner!!

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The Lander 10-Blade 70mm Alloy 6S 2200kv EDF unit seems to be using the CS10 rotor. It is a very nice and well made unit. Maybe a bit overly robust, and thus heavy, but this is a powerful and 'up to the task' unit.
They quote 1900W and I have only pushed mine to 1700W approx, which it can do but even at that level it gets very hot if you run it for very long at that level of power. I don't think it is 'fatally hot', but it is getting close to being detrimental for its long term lifespan. You would probably (and maybe I did) hit 1900W in peak bursts of a high C battery (65C) coming off fresh, or a lower power 'rest' period.

It comes with a screw off inlet ring, so you can use that, or not, as required. (required for bench testing). It also has two mounting flanges that are screwed on, so they can be left off if you want. Presonally I always use mounting flanges for all 70mm and upwards EDF's, partly to ensure they are 100% rigidly held always - especially for higher powers - but also so they can easily be removed, maintained, tested etc. It is easy to put plywood mounting rails into any foam aircraft.

HobbyKing currently sells this unit at $71.99, which is very good value for what you get really. But if you can dig up a BuddyCode it then drops it to $66, which a a real BARGAIN then! A 2960 motor alone would cost you in the area of $40 at least, if not more like $50 top $60.... and then $75+ for a HET. For no better result really. Then a CS10 for $15..... plus it is all...Continue Reading