This all started when i saw the Prime Jet 8 thread and wanted to build one. But looking at my little PJ i realized that well .. it looks like a Prime Jet minus the the canards .. so i added some to it.
It flies fantastic, more controllable at low speeds, and just as if not more maneuvrable at high speeds, even if it is a little more draggy.
But i love it, i was never going for speed to begin with
It flies fantastic, more controllable at low speeds, and just as if not more maneuvrable at high speeds, even if it is a little more draggy.
But i love it, i was never going for speed to begin with
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As a side project, decided to convert my Fling 2m to electric start.
So far I have removed the servo tray, and cleaned up the epoxy left behind and fitted the firewall to the front of the plane.
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So far I have removed the servo tray, and cleaned up the epoxy left behind and fitted the firewall to the front of the plane.
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Well its finally time to start on my 40" A5. My 6mm depron finally came in, and therefore i have no more excuses to delay the construction.
Before the weekend, i got the remainder of the supplies i was missing (carbon tube + pushrods), so i sneaked away for a bit and got the inner structure of the A5 cut out and partially assembled:
The two halves of the fuse are glued together with Gorilla Glue (the white, fast drying kind). I did like the gluing time of this glue as it was as the bottle said, solid in 60min.
For the vertical tail spar, decided to use the same 6mm carbon tube i will use in the main wing. I really don't like t-tail flutter so it seemed like a good choice, over a rod/bamboo skewer; which i had both around.
The next step is to glue the vertical and horizontal cross sections of the plane together, and while that glues, create the servo tray for the 9g tail servos.
More progress:
Finally made and glued in the servo trays, tail support and started attaching together the front section of the plane:
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Before the weekend, i got the remainder of the supplies i was missing (carbon tube + pushrods), so i sneaked away for a bit and got the inner structure of the A5 cut out and partially assembled:
The two halves of the fuse are glued together with Gorilla Glue (the white, fast drying kind). I did like the gluing time of this glue as it was as the bottle said, solid in 60min.
For the vertical tail spar, decided to use the same 6mm carbon tube i will use in the main wing. I really don't like t-tail flutter so it seemed like a good choice, over a rod/bamboo skewer; which i had both around.
The next step is to glue the vertical and horizontal cross sections of the plane together, and while that glues, create the servo tray for the 9g tail servos.
More progress:
Finally made and glued in the servo trays, tail support and started attaching together the front section of the plane:
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Well, while waiting for my 6mm foam to come, decided to build a micro A5
Starting with SNice's plans of the A5, I took them and modify them to work better in micro:
Since its designed for the parkzone ar6400, i had to modify the motor mount, and internal structure a bit. Also threw away a lot of internal structure which only adds weight, and provides little benefit to the overall strength of the craft once the skin is attached.
Assembling the internal structure:
The next step is to fit the AR6400 inside the body and connect up the rudder and elevator. Given the design of the aircraft the electronics will have to go on before the skin (at least the topside skin)
De-Pinned and starting to look like an airplane:
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Starting with SNice's plans of the A5, I took them and modify them to work better in micro:
Since its designed for the parkzone ar6400, i had to modify the motor mount, and internal structure a bit. Also threw away a lot of internal structure which only adds weight, and provides little benefit to the overall strength of the craft once the skin is attached.
Assembling the internal structure:
The next step is to fit the AR6400 inside the body and connect up the rudder and elevator. Given the design of the aircraft the electronics will have to go on before the skin (at least the topside skin)
De-Pinned and starting to look like an airplane:
...Continue Reading
Well i've had this baby for a while and flew it well. It has a mems gyro controlling the elevator, which was a brilliant move, since the plane appears to be a bit tail heavy out of the box. With the gyro though it is an absolute pussycat to fly.
Well once i got bolder, and started showing off, decided to turn off the gyro and do some too fast flights, too close to the ground. A gust of wind later and a wingtip grabbed. The prop broke and some of the strut mounts came loose, not broke just loose thankfully.
Well this was an opportunity to me, so decided to make the most of it. Took the bottom wing off and hollowed out a bit more foam so i can use a 1000mAh battery, of which i have many, and decided to do some cosmetic rigging.
Once the plane was all sewn up, with some tough nylon thread, i realized that wings were much stiffer than when i started, so i firmed up some of the points where the string attaches to the plane.
Next on the list is wheel improvements. They need a tube glued in the center to strengthten them. After a few landings and takeofs the center bore of the foam wheels enlarged to the point where they are wobbly.
Soon it will fly again
Update: Flight ready, with fixed up wheels and a 8.5x4.? prop.
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Well once i got bolder, and started showing off, decided to turn off the gyro and do some too fast flights, too close to the ground. A gust of wind later and a wingtip grabbed. The prop broke and some of the strut mounts came loose, not broke just loose thankfully.
Well this was an opportunity to me, so decided to make the most of it. Took the bottom wing off and hollowed out a bit more foam so i can use a 1000mAh battery, of which i have many, and decided to do some cosmetic rigging.
Once the plane was all sewn up, with some tough nylon thread, i realized that wings were much stiffer than when i started, so i firmed up some of the points where the string attaches to the plane.
Next on the list is wheel improvements. They need a tube glued in the center to strengthten them. After a few landings and takeofs the center bore of the foam wheels enlarged to the point where they are wobbly.
Soon it will fly again
Update: Flight ready, with fixed up wheels and a 8.5x4.? prop.
...Continue Reading
Not much to say about it. Its a Dyke delta scaled down got the ar 6400. All up it came out to 38 grams.
Love the delta platform and this little guy seems like a nice plane to replace my UM nutball.
almost done
And finished. The CG is right on without battery, so the hatch under the plane can be used for pretty much positioning the battery centered on the CG.
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Love the delta platform and this little guy seems like a nice plane to replace my UM nutball.
almost done
And finished. The CG is right on without battery, so the hatch under the plane can be used for pretty much positioning the battery centered on the CG.
...Continue Reading
in the 1st flight test the wing performed better than hoped for. The weather was calm and cool, and the plane was rock solid in the air. With the 1battery and small prop it was staying in the air at about 30% power and climbing well by 50%. Over that level though it seems not to have enough current going to the motor so it gets a little on the intermittent side of things.
On the 2nd battery one of the tip fins broke off, so decided to take off its pair too. Well the wing flew better without the wingtips. It is faster and more true, and seems to be less affected by crosswinds (it was a little windy by this time).
The wing was still a little too light on the nose, so instead of adding dead weight, figured why not add a 2nd battery in parallel.
Went home scooped out 2 battery slots with my new hand carver made from an old cold heat soldering iron and a music wire:
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On the 2nd battery one of the tip fins broke off, so decided to take off its pair too. Well the wing flew better without the wingtips. It is faster and more true, and seems to be less affected by crosswinds (it was a little windy by this time).
The wing was still a little too light on the nose, so instead of adding dead weight, figured why not add a 2nd battery in parallel.
Went home scooped out 2 battery slots with my new hand carver made from an old cold heat soldering iron and a music wire:
...Continue Reading
Inbetween other projects, decided to make a wing out of my old UM SU-26 wings. the plane itself is long gone but the wings were good and strong so i kept them.
The brick used is from the UM Cub, since it has the aileron and elevator channel on the built in servos, setting it up is as simple as selecting wingtail mix to elevons.
Motor is a SU motor with the gear removed and prop not sure of but its 2" and has the number 58 on it. Static thrust was 1:1 with the fully loaded wing at about 50-55%. Flight test to come.
The wing
Details of the working bits, battery had to go all the way forward for now to balance the wing.
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The brick used is from the UM Cub, since it has the aileron and elevator channel on the built in servos, setting it up is as simple as selecting wingtail mix to elevons.
Motor is a SU motor with the gear removed and prop not sure of but its 2" and has the number 58 on it. Static thrust was 1:1 with the fully loaded wing at about 50-55%. Flight test to come.
The wing
Details of the working bits, battery had to go all the way forward for now to balance the wing.
...Continue Reading
Originally this project was supposed to be a Polaris, however after cutting out all the parts and fitting them together, it became really obvious the very narrow space where the wing meets the motor pod was going to be a huge pain to get all the controls through.
So undeterred, i switched to the beautiful Seawind. Starting with Kylevn's plans, i removed all parts that weren't critical to the plane. all the doublers were thrown out and the remaining parts re-arranged so they can fit on two 11x17 sheets. As such the wingspan was planned for roughly 16.5" which is right in line with all the parkzone UM planes.
Also at this scale the intended 3 blade prop (from the um corsair) will clear the body, while keeping the thrust line pretty much bang on.
The materials/parts:
- ar6400
- remote micro servo (for ailerons)
- um su26xp gearbox/motor
- corsair 3 bladed prop
- 3mm foam
- nylon pushrod guides
- steel line for pushrods
- micro hinges (for rudder)
- foam glue ( i use a fast tack white glue - dries clear and stays somewhat flexible but hard enough to be sanded)
The modified plans for the UM Seawind:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9&d=1329247816
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0&d=1329247816
The assembly process follows more or less the original instructions.
1. start with the tail:
2. sand the tail and attach the pod to it
Closeup shot of the micro hinges:
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So undeterred, i switched to the beautiful Seawind. Starting with Kylevn's plans, i removed all parts that weren't critical to the plane. all the doublers were thrown out and the remaining parts re-arranged so they can fit on two 11x17 sheets. As such the wingspan was planned for roughly 16.5" which is right in line with all the parkzone UM planes.
Also at this scale the intended 3 blade prop (from the um corsair) will clear the body, while keeping the thrust line pretty much bang on.
The materials/parts:
- ar6400
- remote micro servo (for ailerons)
- um su26xp gearbox/motor
- corsair 3 bladed prop
- 3mm foam
- nylon pushrod guides
- steel line for pushrods
- micro hinges (for rudder)
- foam glue ( i use a fast tack white glue - dries clear and stays somewhat flexible but hard enough to be sanded)
The modified plans for the UM Seawind:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9&d=1329247816
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0&d=1329247816
The assembly process follows more or less the original instructions.
1. start with the tail:
2. sand the tail and attach the pod to it
Closeup shot of the micro hinges:
...Continue Reading
Wiring. I finally had a chance to sit down an finish the wiring of the table. Normally this would be a simple 2 wire job, but i wanted to incorporate a light into the system, to see what is being cut better.
The light is a $ store light but it runs on 5V and is plenty powerful + is shaded, with a bendy neck.
From the very same light i scavenged a push button,so i thought hey this could be cool. The light and the hot wire are now connected in parallel, and and both controlled by the push button. This way i know that if the light is on, the wire is hot.
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The light is a $ store light but it runs on 5V and is plenty powerful + is shaded, with a bendy neck.
From the very same light i scavenged a push button,so i thought hey this could be cool. The light and the hot wire are now connected in parallel, and and both controlled by the push button. This way i know that if the light is on, the wire is hot.
...Continue Reading
Frustrated with cutting complex shapes in foam with a hobby knife, I decided to give in and make myself a hot wire band saw rig. Purchasing a pre-made table is always a good choice, however i had most of the parts needed so figured, 10$ in parts is better than 100$ which is what a finished product would most likely run for.
The table at this stage looks like so:
The base is a simple laminated mdf shelf from Home Depot. I had this lying around as i no longer needed it for its original purpose. The back of the table is made by cutting off a piece of the shelf and mounting it at 90deg with 2 3" wood screws from below. The only consideration when working with mdf is to pre-drill all your holes, else it will split.
The arm is 3mm aluminum flat bar, again home depot has this. It is mounted at the base with a wood screw, and at the top of the backing via a wingnut bolt, so that i can be easily taken out and moved to a slant.
Tension in the wire is provided by the arm itself. Just load it when attaching the wire.
This is the top method of attaching the wire:
As the picture shows, i use a bolt, wingnut and washers. Couple of reasons for this:
Another reason for using the vice style attachment at the top is so that the wire being used does not have to be bent or cut, it can...Continue Reading
The table at this stage looks like so:
The base is a simple laminated mdf shelf from Home Depot. I had this lying around as i no longer needed it for its original purpose. The back of the table is made by cutting off a piece of the shelf and mounting it at 90deg with 2 3" wood screws from below. The only consideration when working with mdf is to pre-drill all your holes, else it will split.
The arm is 3mm aluminum flat bar, again home depot has this. It is mounted at the base with a wood screw, and at the top of the backing via a wingnut bolt, so that i can be easily taken out and moved to a slant.
Tension in the wire is provided by the arm itself. Just load it when attaching the wire.
This is the top method of attaching the wire:
As the picture shows, i use a bolt, wingnut and washers. Couple of reasons for this:
- the position of the wire on the depth axis is adjustable by moving it in or out
- The wing-nut/washer combo makes the wire super easy to attach,just run the wire past it and tighten
Another reason for using the vice style attachment at the top is so that the wire being used does not have to be bent or cut, it can...Continue Reading
