Alias_Hendrik's blog View Details
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Apr 25, 2017 @ 08:00 AM | 14,606 Views
I just was curious about flight time between both because without canopy they have a similar weight. I also wanted to see if any difference between stock batteries. The Eachine E011 battery is 30C while the Bwhoop battery has no C rating mentioned. From what i noticed the E011 battery seems slightly better but i can only be sure when i have more batteries for both.

The E011 has way more lift compared to the Bwhoop but that's probably the draw back from having altitude hold on the Bwhoop which works in fact really well. The Bwhoop can carry a fpv cam well but don't expect you can jump up in the air by giving full throttle to avoid hitting something, it rises rather very slowly..

Bwhoop B-03 versus Eachine E011 (9 min 48 sec)

I guess the Bwhoop is not ment for hard flying and certainly not for punch outs. It's more for relaxed flying and shows how good altitude hold works by putting down the transmitter. It keeps his altitude and stays in place very well. Excellent quad for beginners and learning FPV without worrying too much regarding managing the throttle.

But... The BWHOOP has a connector on board so you can erase stock firmware and program the firmware from silverxxx in it which makes it having acro too and more agile and with lift power but you loose altitude hold and you can't go back to original firmware either. The stock transmitter however will be some problem with the centered throttle stick so best is to have a Devo tx or another transmitter...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Apr 02, 2017 @ 10:01 AM | 10,450 Views
Got my Feiyue FY03 back out and tried again with some changes on the 5.8GHZ fpv gear and shocks. I know 5.8GHZ is not the best for ground fpv but it's the stuff i have laying around
Range of course was not great having the monitor with antennas on a table but by using the monitor with diversity on a tripod things got better.
I use the Aomway 4 leaf antenna and a Aomway helical on the monitor and on my Feiyue FY03 the Aomway AIO cam/VTX with a "forgot the brand" 3 leaf antenna on it which gave a slightly better result compared to a 4 leaf Aomway on the VTX.

At first the AIO cam/vtx was mounted on the Feiyue roof but no matter what i changed, shocks, oil etc. i still had to much vibrations in the FPV video although after changing the front shock oil it was better. But still, the VTX antenna on the cam itself handed over the "driving" vibrations to the cam so in the end i separated the AIO lol and that was much better after putting the vtx and antenna in the back of the Feiyue and leaving the camera itself on the roof which i like because that way i have a little better "depth" perception regarding holes in the road

Because of 5.8GHZ the things which are in the way from LOS breaks up easily the signal and driving further out, between higher gras etc. was bad for control and video. So i brought out the antenna as high as possible from the particular receiver i used in the Feiyue. Having the FPV antenna now in the back, it sit a little bit...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Feb 17, 2017 @ 10:55 AM | 14,021 Views
I had some measurements from the AIO cams i have in different sections from my blog so i decided to put them together in a separate blog which i will update when i have the time
The measurements are more a guide line, because the current draw can slightly differ between different batches from the same cam due to component tolerances and also because of the way it is measured, lens cap on or off etc.

- FX798T AIO decased with clover antenna at 3.9 gram

- Boldclash F-01 with whip antenna at 3.45 gram
The Boldclash F-01 gets warmer / really hot compared to my FX798T but there are already 3 versions of it. V1.0 / V1.1 and V1.2
so maybe the recent ones perhaps getting less hot.

- Boldclash F-02 with whip antenna at 4.56 gram and with metal shield removed 4.08 gram.
My F-02 is less warm / hot compared to the F-01

- King Kong Q25 mini 6.38 gram.
The 2 values for the KingKong Q25 mini are due to the leds flashing on or off.

- Eachine EF-02 with cloverleaf 3.52 gram. Changing the clover antenna to a whip/ sleeve antenna will make it even lighter.

Use the included connector + wires ONLY on the EF-02! The EF-02 board connector and the in the box included pigtail / plug have reversed polarity compared to the normal 1.25mm pigtails used to connect for example a Boldclash F-01 or a FX798T. See also this post.

- Eachine VTX01 has sleeve antenna with UFL connector. Cam used / connected to the VTX01 to measure current; 600TVL 170 degree (PAL version)

...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Dec 30, 2016 @ 02:27 PM | 26,589 Views
The weight of the Boldclash F-02 is 4.56 gram. The good part of it, it has connectors so you can use another cam on it. To reduce some of the weight i removed the metal shield, which will bring the weight down to 4.08 gram. I thought of removing the connectors from the board but too much very small components around it so i ditched that idea.

Trying to mount the cam i did not want to add too much weight so i used 2 loom bands like in the pictures below. The cam button is still reachable and the cam connector is sitting nice in the frame. The VTX board will fit below the FC board in the room above the battery cage.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Dec 17, 2016 @ 09:30 AM | 88,505 Views
Some weeks ago i saw it for around 9 Euro so i bought one thinking it was just another, well you know. But it has some differences, the controller is not compatible with the E010 / H36 but i have to say it feels better and well made. The quad reacts instantly on stick inputs which i really like. The sticks can be extended too and it has the usual RTH and headless (beeps) and 2 speed mode with a fast yaw in high rates but controllable, in a way. The pitch looks slightly less compared to the competition.

The quad itself looks well made too, my only complaint is the red led in the front and eu eu the used protocol is not Deviation compatible which can be a deal breaker for some. On this one the struts are angled and the ducts inlet size / shape / angle differs slightly from E010 / H36. I guess the designers paid some attention because there are other small differences like canopy support between the ducts and on the underside of canopy is a plastic, let me call it pin, sitting against the FC board. Just guessing the whole is to avoid some vibration and providing a little extra strength.

I did one range check, flying 2 a 3 meter above the ground and got around 30 a 40 meters. I rerouted the 76mm antenna in the TX ( but still completely internal) and it did not make much difference. After that, drilling a hole in the F36 canopy and putting quad antenna straight up provided around 55 meter and in combination with an external antenna around 80 meter. Regarding the TX,...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Nov 21, 2016 @ 10:37 AM | 20,241 Views
Just some measurements and what happened after removing the power supply wires. These are twisted (good) but shorted almost on mine (not good lol) because the insulation was stripped too far. So after removing the black stuff i desoldered them without paying much attention.. because it looked obvious they were soldered to the bigger pads. I overlooked the fact the red wire was bridged to the pin below it too.

After prepping the wires and soldering them back on the board, the Boldclash didn't work anymore. it turned out that what i thought was the pad for the + wire was just an empty pad although it seemed there was a tiny trace to the pin below it but it showed no continuity. Soldering the red wire to that pin beneath it fixed it. The below picture is from a BG page with the CM275T at which i marked the battery wires soldering points.


Out of curiosity i measured the 3 pins which connect to the camera board. It seems some kind of regulator circuit is used because with a power supply on the battery leads at 3.5V i measured on the bottom pin 4.5 volt and with the power supply set at 5 volt i measured on the bottom pin 4.75 volt. see picture below.


The 2 pins on the other side connects between the 2 boards and are carrying the ground and positive battery voltage. See picture below.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Nov 01, 2016 @ 08:42 AM | 16,778 Views
I could not resist the looks lol and i bought this Aomway "Diamond" antenna guessing it had a double BiQuad inside and it did. The antenna, regarding Materials, is well made and qua looks, it really looks good.

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I had also the blue - square - 5G8 14dBi high gain flat receiver antenna (ANT005) which is supposed to be a RH CP antenna but i put that one in the bin because of poor performance. i removed the coax + plug so i could use that for another antenna.

The Aomway Diamond antenna however does work really well compared to my other lineair directional antennas although with a smaller beam width.

Below are some pictures from the inside of the antenna.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Sep 14, 2016 @ 05:15 PM | 42,888 Views
Eachine E010 flight time with FPV cam

I struggled with not so good flight times on my E010 + FX798T using a 205mAh battery. I did some changes and instead of reasonable until 3 minutes and another minute flying sluggish and going a few times to the ground and back up, i now reached 4 - 5 minutes ok. The cam is still in his housing. Finally getting somewhere.

Below are the things i changed to get some longer flight time.

Eachine E010 motor upgrade, things i replaced, added or changed

- Replaced the stock motors with the 14000 KV 6 x15 mm Chaoli motors from BG.

- Or you can now also use the new upgraded Chaoli motors from BG which should be around 16000 KV and more powerful. Not tested yet.

- Upgraded to the Eachine 260 mAh 30 C battery with Walkera / Losi connector. (Remove sticker and the clear shrink wrap layer from the battery)

- Cutting down the props to 2 blades. I used a small wire cutter and i used my dremel with a fine "thing" ? to sand the cut smooth.

For the Eachine 260mAh battery which is longer, i folded back the battery stop plate after making a cut on both sides. The battery can go further in (remove the sticker) and the folded part keeps the battery snug in place. I soldered wires + Losi connector to the board (leaving the stock connector in place).

Make sure if you put the 260 mAh battery in the E010 it is centered so the COG is not off. Otherwise you need to trim. If due to where the cam is placed the COG is off you can correct it by...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | May 11, 2016 @ 03:41 PM | 15,832 Views
Driving on a normal road in a straight line is not easy, at least for me i already gave the front wheels some "toe in" instead of out which seems better in keeping the line. The steering on the FY03 is always a little twitchy meaning it reacts a little too fast around center of the steering knob and some relief would not hurt. So i opened the tx and stared at it lol.

The Feiyue FY03 seems to have 2 steering pot. meters, one for the right hand steering and one for the left hand steering wheel. Anyway, by adding two 2K2 resistors (2200 ohm) the steering wheel is a little less twitchy around center position and you still have the full steering capacity at the end points of the steering wheel.

The 2 resistors in the first picture are soldered on (for) acting on the steering wheel for right hand steering. So now i could test if it made any difference between the right and left hand steering and indeed by adding the 2 resistors there is now a little expo which make driving more easy. I'm left handed so i added another 2 resistors on the board for the left hand steering position. (The second picture the 2 resistors on the right are for left hand steering).

I lifted the antenna cable a little so it was more easy to solder the resistors but be carefull so the soldering from the antenna cable will not break otherwise you need to resolder the antenna cable. On mine only the antenna cable center conductor was soldered. ( i did some tests with other antennas for the tx...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Feb 11, 2016 @ 02:52 PM | 17,072 Views
I finally received my Tactic FPV - RM1 foldable sunshield which i ordered at Tower Hobbies because i didn't like the original "velcro" Aomway sunshield. I have to say, the Tactic shield was well packaged and the shipping cost to Europe was 4 Dollar or something.

The Tactic shield is almost a fit. The front tabs do fit but the 2 top tabs are slightly off. I remembered from the Aomway thread about trimming the top tabs (it turned out to be on the Tactic sunshield) but my English is so so and in my believing i thought it was about the slots in the Aomway itself. Anyway, in short, with my dremel and a grinding? tool which nicely fitted the Aomway slot i really carefully lengthened the slots to the outside in the Aomway monitor. ** Make sure you don't make them wider! or it will be loose fit for the tabs!**
After it was done i browsed again the Aomway thread and found the "trimming tab" pictures from Solarsail lol.

So now one can have a choice how to do it; by trimming the tabs on the Tactic shield like user Solarsail did or by carefully lengthen the slots like i did in the Aomway. My method is more job and require a carefull job but it keeps the tabs on the Tactic sunshield in their original shape. Both methods delivers a fitted Tactic sunshield.

Edit; added pictures from inside the monitor in the second post.
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Jan 26, 2016 @ 01:04 PM | 21,893 Views
Thanks to Milan_Croatia in the Bayangtoys X8 thread showing a buzzer added to the Bayangtoys X8 i took a spare Syma V5 board to try it out too so i could mount it in my Fy326 which has a V5 board inside.

Basically the buzzer sounds when the leds are flashing and is silent when the leds are solid. So yes the buzzer will sound when the quad is powered up until the quad is bound and the leds are solid.
When the tx is switched off the leds flash and the buzzer sounds. If while flying the leds start to flash because of LVC the buzzer should sound too although like we know there is not much time between LVC and the quad coming down lol.

- The Buzzer i used: continuous active tone buzzer3 volt DC. Working voltage 2 - 5 volt DC. Current (max) 30 mA.

- Transistor BC548B

- Resistor 100 ohm

-Resistor 3.9K (3900 ohm)

For mounting i glued in the buzzer but before doing that i made a small hole in the shell under the buzzer so the sound can get out. You can solder the collector from the transistor directly to the negative pin from the buzzer. The postive pin from the buzzer goes with a wire to the + (positive) led solderpad on the V5 board.

One side of the 100 ohm resistor is soldered to the base from transistor and the other side from the REsistor goes via a wire to the - (negative) led solderpad on the V5 board or you can choose to the negative side from a led (in my case).

The other resistor 3.9K is between the + and - led connection on the Syma V5 board (in...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Jan 09, 2016 @ 10:41 AM | 16,508 Views
I finally had the time and mounted the Aomway HB200 instead of my Eachine LT200 combo on the Feiyue FY03 RC car and powered it via the 2S battery from the car. I opted for the Aomway because of the all in one solution
However you can easilly separate the cam from the vtx and mount them apart connecting them with extension wires. It should also be possible to use the vtx stand alone using the 5 pin connector on the back of the vtx as it should provide the power for a 5 volt cam and the input for video and audio.

In a brief test inside and only my own impression, i noticed in low light the Aomway is a little less compared with my Eachine LT200 + cam. But on the other hand the dynamic range of the Aomway is really better compared to my LT200 combo and that's what i need.

I plan to put a mic. on my rc car and connect it to the 5 pin connector but i still need to order a few of these 5 pin connectors.
For mounting the Aomway backpack i used a mounting ring which actually is a little too wide but i dremeled down / smaller (just a little) the mounting feet so when i tighten the screw the inside ring diam. becomes a little smaller compared to original. I later added a small rubber band around the camera to make it a little thicker so it will fit the mounting ring diameter. So in the end it was actually not needed to dremel down the feet lol.

The original lens was a little to wide for my taste on my rc car and i replaced it by a IR blocked 2.8 lens from Surveilzone.

Regarding the rf output i agree with Seby and it is worth it to check the output from the different channels. You can find a in depth review by Sebydocky here
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Nov 24, 2015 @ 05:24 PM | 17,846 Views
I got a little confused by the different "Band" naming by Aomway so i tried to rework the band table with in front of it the band naming by others.

The first column "Others" band is how for example hmm others name it and between the ( ) is how it is named on the FR632.
For example Band F is named D on the FR632 and named A on the Aomway VTX...
Band A is called B on the Aomway vtx's and for this band also the channel order is backwards.
Anyway i hope it's of some use to someone and i hope i made no mistakes
The black "bits" in the picture are the Aomway vtx switch positions.
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Nov 01, 2015 @ 01:48 PM | 18,070 Views
Just some easy to find info for my own so i don't have to search between all my notes and for others who can use it so you will not have to spend too much "search time" on the internet
On rare occasions it can happen the voltage regulator on the board dies. The voltage regulator (LDO) is marked 54ML and in working condition it delivers 2.8V. It should be possible to replace it with a MCP1700T-2802E/TT

I did use a 3.0V too because the LVC on the FY-326 is a little low but with a 3V LDO it's a little too high and especially when it's colder outside so in the end i soldered back in a 2.8 V LDO.

If you want to use this Nanotech 750mAh 35-70C in the FY-326 Q7 you should first check and if needed switch the black and red wire position in the battery connector otherwise smoke will rise from the Fet's on the FCB board.
If you see a battery noted for use with "Nine Eagles" you better check first the polarity from the wires before using the battery in another quad. (Compare the wire position with the ones from your stock battery).

I was told this one however should have the wires in the correct position ready to use in the FY-326 Q7.

In case the Fet's are gone, the marking on the Fet(s) is "2310" and it should be a CYSTECH MTN2310N3 but prob. you can also use a IRLML2502PBF or even better via gathered info; a AO3400A (Alpha Omega). When the bad fet is removed, and before soldering the new one in, desolder one motor wire and check if the (glas) diode above each Fet on the board is not damaged / shorted or open.
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Oct 24, 2015 @ 01:30 PM | 16,444 Views
Syma FPV kit with D lens was only mounted with a battery strap, video could be better but it was just a test I want to install the Eachine kit or the Aomway HM200 but i have not decided yet

Syma FPV kit on RC Car FEIYUE F03 Desert Eagle (5 min 41 sec)

Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Oct 06, 2015 @ 04:49 PM | 18,562 Views
My Desert Eagle had stock about 80 m range. Bringing the antenna part higher extended the range. When I opened up the receiver I noticed the antenna wire was bend right above the board. It's because the hole in the top part receiver housing is not straight above the antenna solder point. I first widened the hole so it's straight above the soldering point for the RG178 coax i used.

I desoldered the little wire antenna from the receiver and used a 2.4 GHZ antenna like this or from this seller although the one i bought came from yet another ebay seller but i can't find the exact link anymore.

With the coax coming from "above" to the board, i guess best config was to have 2 "ground" pads on the receiver board. Around the original antenna soldering connection are ground traces but with green "mask" over it. Where I intended to solder the "ground" from the coax I carefully scraped away the green mask on the board so the copper would become visible and I could solder the legs from the "fork" to it. The center wire from the coax going to the original antenna soldering point.

Because of the metal pipe / sleeve on top of my new antenna, i first needed to route the coax end to go true the upper part receiver housing before soldering the cable to the board
I tested with the naked car so the coax + antenna was pointing straight up and got about 50 meter more range. After that I put the body on the car but not wanted to make a hole...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Oct 06, 2015 @ 11:55 AM | 19,535 Views
Mould king 33041 range test (4 min 14 sec)

After they changed rf chip and protocol in the Mould King Super S... the range got worse... Regarding the protocol, for some it's a good thing because now it can be controlled by the Devo
But with the stock tx the range is not that good, mine did max 20 meters and sometimes already dropping at 10 meters...

A method which should improve range

As mentioned regularly in the Mould King threads, you can put the antenna in the quad vertical by sticking it out via one of the holes in the top shell. In the TX you can make a small hole in the shell between the sticks a little below the led and stick the antenna vertical. This should improve range.

Another method with RX antenna in landing feet

If you like to experiment, the first thing I did was removing the wire antenna in the quad and soldering a coax cable in place going out to the landing feet in the vertical part of the feet with at the end of the coax the outer braid (shield) removed for 1/4 wave lenght. With the TX antenna still in original position this extended the range from 20 to 40 meters. But sticking the RX antenna in the feet it has some cons too...

Afterwards I removed the wire antenna in the transmitter and soldered in a wire lenght of 3/4 wave length sticking it in the tx fake antenna part. It improved the range but just by a little. By using a 5/8 wave wire length it improved range from 40 to about 80 meters.

150 meters with a 2.4 GHZ...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Sep 24, 2015 @ 04:23 PM | 17,018 Views
Because my original lens seemed to be a little out of focus, I decided to replace it with a keychain camera D lens 808 #16. I opted for the neat but more troublesome way in the sense I had to unscrew the D lens from its holder for a short while and having the risk of getting dust specks inside. Also after the mod via this method you need to refocus the lens.

After opening the camera housing release the ribbon cable from the connector. The swivel holding the lens can be separated and the complete original lens can be removed. Afterwards I widened the round lens hole in the plastic to 7 mm so the D lens thread will fit the hole.
Because the plastic is weak i used different drill bits until 7mm making the hole wider with the drill bits by hand. Needless to say after widening the hole it must be cleaned very well to avoid getting plastic residu and or dust on the D lens sensor when mounting. Because the lens itself from the complete D lens needs temporarily to be unscrewed completely which can be done after carefully removing the "glue" on the D lens thread.

I used x-acto knife nr 11 and big magnifying glass to remove glue from D lens, once you get the sharp point UNDER the glue in a thread "lane", you than just need to slightly push and follow that thread lane pushing the dry glue out. it came out fairly easy on 2 different D-lens modules i did. Again make sure after removing the glue, the threads are clean an no particles / residu are left behind when...Continue Reading
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Aug 26, 2015 @ 05:02 PM | 17,340 Views
Last update 2 october

I had some problems with the VTX from the Syma FPV kit. Picture comes and go. It seems on some VTX units there is very little "white glue" fixing the rf chip crystal in position. On mine the crystal was also a little sideways positioned and very little glue to keep it in position and the transparant heat-shrink around the crystal was not covering the whole top on the underside of the crystal. So in one way, it could possibly short the little smd component beneath it or, depending on how the crystal is positioned, touching the pin from the ldo and the little smd component if pressed down... (if top side of crystal is not completely covered by the transparant heat-shrink)

The thing was, If I pushed behind the dipswitch (fully assembled and when I just received it) the picture (the times I had a picture) was gone and changing the pressure, or releasing it, the picture was back... sometimes...

So, the crystal moved on mine? Or... Although the dip switch connections to the rf chip measured fine with the multimeter, it could still had a bad solder joint causing problems when it heats up, and the board really does heat up lol so I resoldered the dipswitch pins on the bottom side of the board.

On the top side only the pin on the right was soldered. So I did the 2 others too on the top side as precaution because at least one trace from the rf chip connects to the dip switch on the top side. I know it's "true hole" connection but you never know so that's the reason I did the top side too. Although there is barely any room to do it and needs a ultra fine soldering tip to reach the dip switch pins on the top side of the board.

I also repositioned the crystal and put extra heat-shrink on the crystal.
After fixing the crystal and resoldering the dipswitch, the VTX still works ok like it should. The question remains what fixed it, the extra heat-shrink extending now a little the top of the crystal or the resoldering, But I don't care, it works
Posted by Alias_Hendrik | Aug 24, 2015 @ 05:59 PM | 17,109 Views
Because of the "weird oscillation" problems with the Syma X5C board and 8.5mm motors, oscillation which still was visible in the recorded video, I decided to make a mount for the Syma FPV kit on my first Red Board FY-326.
For this kind of quadcopters it was a windy day but the FY-326 did fairly well with the FPV kit. Total flying weight was 128 gram. I landed it after 7.5 minutes of flying in fairly heavy wind so the recorded video is a little shaky. Watching it in the wind, it seems the FPV kit has a need for 8.5mm otherwise the quad will be a little underpowered I guess.

I still want to lose some weight for having a little more lifting power to have some reserve when flying between trees and bushes. So I plan to remove the internal FPV kit battery and use power from the flight battery. But I need first to investigate the traces on the camera board to see how it will work out regarding the charge connector and a seemingly available power connection. However flight time will be reduced but on the other hand I should win a little because of less total weight... A possible problem can be video interference lines from the motors but it's too early to tell

Syma FPV kit and FY326 Q7 (4 min 3 sec)