Stock motor on 3S, peak values

10.65V
49.02A
529.9W

Originally Posted by Noircogi View Post
Change the 22.5mSec to (Num_chans*2.3 + 4)mS
Thanks for the equation! ( I was reading about ppm stream and the periods between the pulses and figured something had to be changed for different numbers of channels). That makes sense why I was getting weird pulses for some of my servos when I changed to 10 channels...

Just to make sure I have this correct:
10 channels @ 27mSec
12 channels @ 31.6 rounded to 31.5
and both still @ 300uSec

4.0x53 required
http://www.rctimer.com/product_557.html

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16578

2249g 4.96lb

Complete stock motor spec

Weight 106g (without mount)
kV 1100 (stated)
Poles 12
magnets 14
Stator diameter 34mm
Stator length 13.75mm
Outer diameter 41mm
shaft length 77mm
shaft diameter 4mm

This aircraft is my first attempt at scale FPV. It will have the camera installed at the pilot's point of view, and will feature moving stick and throttle. Some of the dash will also be functioning. Stay tuned

>>>UPdate<<<

For anyone following this thread, I've moved it over to FPV lab: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....-FPV-Cub-build

Sub

Skywalker V4

Got my AR in the air for the first time this morning. This is my first "speed" plane.

I got it all buttoned up last night, and snuck it in the car "just in case" I had a few minutes on my way to work this morning. Turns out I did, so pulled over to my favourite (large) park, and let her rip. Not before taking a few snaps with the phone though, so I can remember it in case the worst happens ;-)

I gave it about 1/3 throttle and pushed it up and away. It was a MASSIVE handful right away, as it needed about all the up trim I had and a good deal of right as well to prevent it spearing in at the closest piece of dirt. I nearly lost it at one point as it ended up quite far away and was very hard to see. Managed to gather it all in though, and eventually got the time to hit the trim buttons for about 40 clicks. After getting it straight and level (phew!) I spent the remainder of the first pack just cruising around, getting a feel for the low speed handling, with the occasional squirt of full throttle. Jeeeeezzzzus this thing moves out! One observation is that I'm not sure the little 5g servo is enough for aileron. I tried a fast roll with full aileron deflection, and the roll rate was not much faster than when at low speed. I think the ailerons are being blown back at high speed, but I need to test it some more to be sure. It's not a problem though. I was pretty happy with the thrust line as it was pretty consistent on trim with power on and off. After that...Continue Reading

I finished my Skywing 48" Yak 54 the other day, and have flown six packs through it now. Enough to form a bit of an opinion on it!

See below for a full review!

Some FPV flight around the local area. This place is a residential development that got started about 2 years ago, and no houses have been built. Wonder if they ever will?

It's a perfect FPV playground for multirotors. Lots of obstacles to make it really interesting, all within the 300m range of my Spektrum system. Who says Spektrum is unworkable for FPV? The video is just from a keychain cam, not the FPV cam, hence a bit of jello.

http://youtu.be/HhYPgtONAuU





Here's my version of a balanced, direct drive yaw control setup.

The rear pivot is an M3 bolt and blind nut turned around, the front pivot is the servo itself.

I've seen a few of you have modified the tailwheel because it's generally accepted that the standard one is pretty weak. I've had a PA Addiction for ages, and the tailwheel is quite weak on that model too. The AMR being heavier, I decided fix it right from the start. See pics.

You can see that all I've done is add a few bends to the standard tailwheel wire, and used a portion of one of the removed cross braces with a hole drilled through to act as a more substantial "hinge" to locate the wheel to the fuselage, instead of the rudder. This avoids placing stress on the rudder as the wire bends, and protects the hinges. The shorter tailwheel wire also puts less "moment" on the rudder and servo as well. So far it seems to be much more robust than the standard, and adds less than 1 gram to the tailwheel weight, and also happens to be FREE! Tics all the engineering boxes then...

s.

While waiting for my servos (I ordered the wrong ones) I got to some more mods on my AMR. I'd already removed the cross piece adjacent to the rear cabane but to me, the battery access seemed marginal still. So I used a similar method on the next most forward cross piece. See pics. This time though, I used slightly larger 3mm CF tube for the cross bracing. These pieces extend from under the top longeron to the LG lateral tubes. The stiffeners are lashed with thread and epoxy anywhere it is needed. It's pretty stiff and the net weight delta is zero after the mod. I'm happy with the battery access now.

m.