Archive for March, 2018
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Views: 43
I carefully laid down blue tape to make a straight line on the wing bottom. I had to cut out the paper over the vinyl graphics to get the spacing just right. -
Views: 42
To help position the lettering, I sprayed water containing two drops of dishwashing liquid on the wing. The small squeegee presses the water and air bubbles out. The lettering stuck to the wing and it was easy to peel off the top coating from the letters. -
Views: 44
The rudder , fuselage sides and wings all look great. This work took about 30 minutes to apply and is true to scale. -
Views: 50
The Ford Flivver 268 build project is quickly drawing to a finish. Parts were fitted together today to check for last month minute tweaks. The string, for instance needs to hook into the rudder pull-pull and the tail servo still remain.
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Views: 43
It is important to mark where the hinges line up before covering the other side. Make the slit after marking them. In covering the fin, I tacked down the edges with a covering iron and then hit it briefly with a heat gun to stretch the Monokote Sapphire. -
Views: 43
Cut the hinges and immediately transfer the hinges to the covered side. -
Views: 44
Make sure the center line of the CA hinge is marked so that only half of it goes into the covered part. -
Views: 45
The finished tail that is covered and has the CA hinges cut into place. I plan to epoxy the wheel bracket into place.
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Views: 40
Metal beads were squeezed out from my the 2 lb. weighted exercise cuff. -
Views: 45
Metal beads were glued to the tops of the ribs in the exact locations as on the original Ford Flivver 268. -
Views: 38
My building table is a desk and the Monokote Aluminum filled the table. I measured and cut. The bottom of the wing was first. -
Views: 40
I did not allow for more than two inches overhang on the wing bottom. Note that everything has been removed from the bottom of the wing -- landing gear screws were saved. -
Views: 41
Used the heating iron to tack around all the edges. -
Views: 42
With the edges tacked down, I used the high heat setting on my heat gun. The Monokote stretched perfectly. Pulling around the edges of the wingtips was very easy. -
Views: 34
The bottom wing covered. -
Views: 38
The top of the wing had at least three to four inches overhang on the wing tips. I tacked down the edges of the wing. Not that the last rib got a good bit of heat tacking down the film. I was terrified that the ends of the wing film would shrivel.
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Views: 41
This is the original Ford Flivver coaming around the cockpit hanging on display at the Ford Museum in Dearborn, Mich. I took this photo in November 2017. -
Views: 35
The curved fabric is the backside of the black pleather. The double-sided tape did help the tape stick, but it was not really effective making a good adhesion. Only drops of CA worked to affix the coaming around the cockpit edge. -
Views: 35
The coaming fits just a part of the 1/64th ply cockpit edges provided in the short kit. I left the stitching ragged and plan to clean it up later. -
Views: 43
The coaming is in place and you get a good view of the cockpit instruments. The coaming went into place by pinching the pleather strip inch by inch. It affixed by thin CA. Medium would have been best.
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Hatch in foreground has a gas cap in front of the windshield. Cap made from a screw cover. The bar in the back is the long headrest behind the pilot. -
Views: 51
Elevator in foreground, then ailerons in the middle, then hatch and headrest. -
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Front of plane is covered in Monokote Aluminum color. -
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Aluminum panels are embossed from soft drink can. Cut out with old scissors. -
Views: 52
Had to sand the paint off three cans before cutting them apart. It thins them, makes the embossing easier and the adhesive to stick. I used an 80 grit sanding block.