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Battery hatch open, bottom of RX shelf visible inside fuse. -
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Very Rough first pass, but I got lots of foamboard -
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The wing and tail are modified, doesn't look horrible, but the cockpit & nose definitely look too small -
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Looks sorta Viking-like -
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When I first got her, after about an hour of twist, tape & wiggle -
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Post crash photo 1 -
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Close-up of fuse damage. Wing root was also torn out -
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Post repair, not pretty, but mine -
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A little franken-stieny, but looks good to me -
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From the other side -
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If they had had Cyanoacrylate & Hot Glue, Humpty Dumpty would be with us today. -
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I actually did a fair job on the wing
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Bound Up -
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Mold release might be a little rough -
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Somebody at Santa's workshop might have wanted to keep this one for themselves -
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I have a bunch of these little 430MaH 30C 2s LiPo's, I think I can make a little parallel adapter, and use these -
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My first edf -
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Lots of thrust -
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We need tape -
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This should give me enough juice
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Turnigy nano-tech 300mah 2S 35~70C Lipo Pack is a jam fit, I add the painters tape out of a belt & suspenders mentality. Forward tape keeps the battery leads in check. (Please note LIPO is all the way aft for CG) -
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Here she is after the first flight. Faster than the P-47 (lighter) Sink rate is an issue. Power is needed till a foot or so off the ground. well behaved in the air. This was a light wind morning 5 to 8 mph with gusts to 10. -
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Final trim settings after 2 flights. Rudder neutral, a little left aileron, and a little up elevator. -
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Close up of battery placement. The Turnigy nano-tech 300mah 2S 35~70C Lipo Pack is a jam fit, and may be able to stay for docile flight with-out the tape. LOL, the tape is an excellent choice for a belly lander, less hanging out. It can pull paint!!!
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After gutting the T-28, test fitting the new powerplant -
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After a liberal amount of caulk is applied, you have to hold the motor and mount at the correct angle (1.5 degrees right & down or thereabouts) for at least half an hour. Caulk will get everywhere, and must be cleaned. Tape in place and let cure overn -
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Adding the AS3X brick from the P-47. I taped the antenna down with painter's tape to prevent it coming in contact with push-rods or other components. -
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I caulked down the brick, and was left with a large percent cantilevered in the front. I took some of the remnants of the 47 (foam chunk off fuse with the name decal) and caulked it in as a support. You want to make sure that the brick cannot vibrate. -
Views: 169
Giant pain in the 4th point of contact to get the carbon rod spar in place. I sharpened the rod, and jammed it into the belly pan from both sides, but there is "A LOT" of contact cement in there. Did I mention the amount of contact cement? -
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I was able to get a length of music wire to pass between the belly pan and the wing. I just sawed back and forth in all directions with the wire until I had enough room to get the CF spar through with considerable resistance. -
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Using 3m inch 7/8 packing tape, I taped the spar in, while taping the wing to the workbench. this was actually the easiest way, and then just cut the wing free with an x'acto knife. Please note, the fuse is off the bench and below the edge. -
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I had to resize the 47's push-rods, the tiny shrink tube is available from china via ebay. There are those that will say that I have used too much, I am old and blind,... give a brother a break.