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Posted by bill_delong | Mar 21, 2021 @ 06:07 PM | 11,151 Views


This will be a live post that I will update regularly as new information becomes available. Although this thread will be targeted for club racing, I expect a lot of this information may be useful for bashers as well. I am a club racer who has been a basher since 1986 and got into club racing around 2010.

Recommended Upgrades:
Build Tips:
Recommended spares to carry:
  • TBD - I just got the truck and will update this list as things break or if I see them break elsewhere

*** Build thread for the E819RS coming soon!




Check out more stuff on My Bookmarks page!
Posted by bill_delong | Feb 03, 2021 @ 03:03 PM | 12,035 Views
Quick Notes:

I have not tested these but just want to write these down for future reference when racing at a big event with dry/grooved up conditions and these are recommendations from AKA Team drivers:

FDJ Clear - always use on new set of tires to get them to soak up sauce better
https://beachrc.com/traction-compound

Clay Compound: Liquid Wrench
SSLW to SLW:
FDJ Red for Pin tires
FDJ Green for bar tires
FDJ Gold for wet conditions

Sauce tires about 10 min before the race and bake on tire warmers, wipe tires dry
Posted by bill_delong | Jan 25, 2021 @ 10:11 PM | 10,769 Views
Abridged Version:
  • I bought an A80BHM servo which was rated for 1/8 off-road... servo failed after 10 race days in my TEKNO EB48 2.0 (internal electrical issue)
  • I then bought a second servo which also failed after another 10 race days, same issue
  • AGFRC was notified about durability concerns for A80 series of servos
  • AGFRC simply removed the 1/8 spec from their product page and told me buy their A81 servo instead
  • AGFRC did not offer to make things right, they simply cheated me with false advertising, then did a "bait/switch" after the sale
  • Who offers a 500oz-in servo that is limited to 1/10 use only?
  • This suggests that AGFRC is over stating their specs and can not be trusted
Full Story:

AGFRC has been in business since 2009. I first learned of this brand with this thread over on RCTech: Digital Servos from China when someone linked to the thread on some other random post in late 2019.

The Good:

What drew me into the brand was low pricing to where I could get these servos for $45 each (+free shipping) after my frequent buyer discount from Banggood based out of China. Here was my first purchase on Jan 10, 2020:



I installed the following servos in each respective race class that I was running at the time:

A80BHM --> TEKNO SCT410
A62BLS --> PR Racing 401R ( 13.5T 4WD Buggy on Turf)
A62BLS --> PR Racing 401LW (13.5T 4WD Buggy on Dirt Oval Latemodel)
A62BLS --> PR Racing 401R-T (5.5T 4WD Mini Truggy on Turf/Dirt)

These servos were amazing at the...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Nov 01, 2020 @ 04:41 PM | 14,142 Views
AGF Programmable Servos

USER MANUAL

AGF SOFTWARE PROGRAM V1.2

Version 1.2 of the programmer can only be ran on a Windows based PC with the USB thumb drive provided by AGF. I tried using a couple other USB to servo adapters for programming ESC's and they were not compatible with the software. There is no installer, you simply run the executable stand alone, then connect the servo to the USB programmer and plug into your PC after the software is running, then click the "Read" button.

Here is a screen shot of the AGF-A80BHSW with the default settings:



Here is what the instructions say each option controls:



  • Range for the Servo Angle can be adjusted from 1 to 255
  • Range for the Servo Neutral goes from -127 to 127
  • Range for Damping Factor goes from 50 to 600
  • Range for PWM Power goes from 39.2% to 100%
  • 4 Sensitivity Options are Ultra High, High, Medium, Low

Posted by bill_delong | Feb 21, 2020 @ 07:55 PM | 13,909 Views
Backstory:

I am creating this thread because I recently learned that URC has officially retired and all my "Build Project" threads on URC are long gone and will never come back

I will do my best recreate what I remember from my thread on URC and share this information here on RCG.

"PROJECT 21" was the very first 1/8 4WD SCT conversion made by Tim Martin and TheJANG at URC in late 2009, here are the original videos created:


Project 21 - Original 1:8th 4WD brushless RC short course truck (2 min 41 sec)


Project 21 - 1/8th nitro buggy to electric short course conversion - Video 2 (1 min 21 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Jan 03, 2020 @ 09:36 AM | 20,604 Views
Selecting a charger can be very difficult today with so many features out there, you should first decide what are your most important requirements?
I won't cover everything but I will highlight a few things to consider when making your selection.

  • Internal Resistance (IR) Meter - this is probably the single most important feature to me, this gives you the ability to check the overall health of your packs. For example, a brand new pack might measure both cells below 1 mΩ, and then as the pack ages/degrades you will slowly see the IR increase over time... anything below 3 mΩ is still considered "low IR" but I start to notice pack swelling and degradation of performance (fade, etc) as soon as any individual cell goes past 7 mΩ... it's a very subtle difference and is hard to tell if you use the same pack and that's where having an IR Meter helps you decide when to retire a pack. I might still keep an aged pack for practice up until any cell hits 15mΩ but at that point I typically toss them out or give them away. I have also found that when any cell is farther than 1-2 mΩ apart, then the pack tends to take longer to balance and that's when I may consider selling the pack provided the cells are still below 7mΩ... I make sure to post IR readings of any packs that I sell and I would refuse to buy any used pack without IR readings so you understand the current condition of the pack!
  • Max Balance Current - many chargers will not share this
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Jan 01, 2020 @ 12:49 PM | 14,370 Views
Posted by bill_delong | Dec 06, 2019 @ 03:29 PM | 15,507 Views
I saw someone recently ask the question, what parts are needed to convert an SCT410.3 into a MT410 and for how much?


Having an SCT410.1 myself, I have been tinkering with the idea of doing the conversion as well, so let's take a look and see what it will take. Note that I have not made the conversion myself, this is just a guess of what I think will be required based on cross referencing parts off the product pages:


$15 - TKR5424 – Turnbuckle (steering links, 2pcs, MT410)
$15 - TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers (trailing, 15 degree, L/R, EB/NB/ET/NT)
$14 - TKR5193 – Spindles (trailing, L/R, requires TKR5194, EB/NB/ET/NT48, EB/NB.3)
$12 - TKR5199 – Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48, EB/NB.3)
$5 - TKR6145 – Shock Boots (for 137mm shocks, 2pcs)
$60 - 2 x TKR5472 – Driveshafts (front/rear, hardened steel, 2pcs, ET48, NT48)
$12 - TKR6061 – Shock Shafts (for 137mm shocks, steel, 2pcs)
$30 - 2 x TKR5451 – Turnbuckle (camber link, front, 2pcs, ET48, NT48)
$30 - TKR6060 – Shock Body (for 137mm shocks, aluminum, hard anodized, 2pcs)
$12 - TKR6081 – Shock Spring Set (rear, 1.610.0T, 90mm, green, 4.20 lb/in)
$18 - TKR5436 – Suspension Arms (front, 2pcs, ET48, NT48)
$18 - TKR5430 – Suspension Arms (rear, 2pcs, ET48, NT48)
$30 - TKR5071C – Wheel Hubs (17mm, lightened, aluminum, gun metal ano, 2mm offset, w/pins, 2pcs)
$15 - TKR5116 – Wheel Nuts (17mm, serrated, gun metal anodized, M12x1.0, 4pcs)
$40 - 2 x TKR5070 – Stub Axles (hardened steel, 2pcs)
$12 - TKR5055A – Arm Bushing (aluminum, hard anodized, 4pcs)
$12 - TKR5054A – Spindle Bushings (aluminum, hard anodized, 4pcs)
$35 - TKR5029 – Shock Tower (rear, 7075 CNC, gun metal anodized)
$35 - TKR5028 – Shock Tower (front, 7075 CNC, gun metal anodized)
$14 - TKR40007K – Battery Straps (black, 4-6 cell)


Total = $436


New MT410 Kit = $450

Here's an alternative:

Tekno Custom SCT410.3 Mini MT410 Run VIdeo #3 (16 min 16 sec)

Posted by bill_delong | Nov 25, 2019 @ 11:01 AM | 18,367 Views
Short Answer: Not anytime soon


Long Answer: Graupner was founded in 1930 by Johannes Graupner in Stuttgart-Wangen. They would be taken over by his son Hans in 1953 and was sold to SJ Ltd (Korean based) in 2013. While the German plant had remained in operations since the buyout, it has been too expensive to keep that location open so the German location was shut down in 2019. Operations will remain the same for South Korean and US based distribution entities as the company is re-structured to reduce operating expenses.


Check out more stuff on My Bookmarks page!
Posted by bill_delong | Nov 19, 2019 @ 12:16 AM | 14,868 Views
Here are the steps I used to convert an HP Power Supply, pretty sure most HP supplies use the same pin out so this should work for other models that may have slightly different output ratings, just make sure the exposed card slot looks similar to what is pictured below. I offer no warranty, only perform this conversion if you know what you are doing!


I bought the following HP Proliant 750W Power Supply HSTNS-PL12 for $15 shipped.

*** If you do not feel comfortable doing this conversion yourself, I am willing to do it for you for $40 + shipping




There are 6 short leads on the exposed card slot and 2 large leads for a total of 8 leads. I bridged the left farthest lead to the 4th lead to the right and then soldered up some 4mm and 5mm bullet connectors on the large leads where left side is negative and the right side is positive.






That's all there is to it!


You can put some colored shrink wrap on the bullets if you want, maybe cover the supply with some vinyl wrap if you want to make it fancy.

...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Nov 08, 2019 @ 07:40 PM | 13,739 Views
So I recently found the need to break in some new tires. I plan to order the AKA Tire Break In Tool, but I just didn't have time to wait, I need to get these tires sanded down before tomorrow's race

As luck will have it, I happened to have a spare front 2WD SCT axle from an old Kyosho Ultima SC5 in one of my parts bins, I used my dremel to grind off the bearing lip and it fit's perfectly into my cordless drill. Can't get any more simple than that!







...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Jun 22, 2019 @ 09:20 AM | 16,534 Views
TheJANG from UltimateRC did a battery review many years ago using a discharge graph comparing 30A discharge cycles between MaxAmps brand and a couple budget brand packs that were available at the time. TheJANG found that performance was nearly identical between the packs and could not recommend MaxAmps with the opinion that they were over stating their C ratings and the price they were charging were not justified. MaxAmps would retaliate and forced YouTube to remove any video that TheJANG had published with MaxAmps in his content over "Copyright Protection". TheJANG had to cross out MaxAmps in any reference to his review on his website. He even banned the word MaxAmps from being used on the URC forums... folks would quickly adopt the name MaxCramps which was very accurate.




*** UPDATE ***
TheJANG would ultimately shut down URC completely, though his YouTube page still remains, he is not publishing any new videos. At one point TheJANG mentioned that he would not make any more videos if he would not be allowed to voice his honest opinion and MaxAmps was the main reason why he was shutting down URC due to the legal nightmare they strung over him *** not a direct quote, I'm paraphrasing.
Posted by bill_delong | May 21, 2019 @ 07:20 PM | 16,965 Views
This will be an evolving thread as I build and review a PR Racing SB401-T (1/10 Mini Truggy). Look for regular updates to this post as I plan to race this "Mini Truggy" in the 4WD Mod Truck class at Thornhill Racing Circuit (1/10 Dirt Track). Full disclosure, I recently picked up a sponsorship through PR Racing so be prepared to expect some bias, but I will do my best to identify potential areas to consider making upgrades to improve the quality of this kit where applicable.

A quick background on me: I started club racing around 2010 and have slowly improved my skills to where I'm one of the slowest of the fast guys at the club in my area, ha! I typically average between 96% -98% consistency and will occasionally pick up a win for club racing and often make the A Main for regional events. My first 1/10 Mini-Truggy was the HoBao Hyper10TT which I raced about 5-7 years ago until the class died. Then the class came back in 2018 when TEKNO released the ET410 which I have a full year of racing that truck on turf. I look forward to comparing the PR truck with it's predecessors!

Hits:
  • Loaded with upgrades in the kit for exceptional value!
  • One of the lowest LCG designs I've seen on the market!
  • Thin 2mm aluminum chassis with carbon reinforced spline offers one of the most flexible chassis'
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Mar 25, 2019 @ 07:27 PM | 21,595 Views
This will be an evolving thread as I build and review a PR Racing SB401-TypeR. Look for regular updates to this post as I plan to race this buggy in the 13.5T 4WD Buggy class at Thornhill Racing Circuit (Turf Track).



My first wheeler was an InTech ER-14 (clay), then I switched to a Schumacher CAT-K2 (clay+turf) and spent the last 16+ months running a TEKNO EB410 mostly on turf. I look forward to seeing what the 401R has to offer!




Hits:
  • Loaded with upgrades in the kit for exceptional value!
  • Global Team Driver Support with setups posted on FB and PetitRC
  • One of the lowest LCG designs I've seen on the market!
  • Thin 2mm aluminum chassis with carbon reinforced spline offers one of the most flexible chassis's I've seen to date!
  • Aluminum: hangers, caster blocks, rear hubs, gear box support
  • Carbon: towers, center brace, battery strap, ackermann, steering support
  • Easy access diffs for super quick tuning changes between rounds
  • Slide lock aluminum motor mount with Center slipper which is perfect for stock racing on medium to high traction surfaces
  • Aluminum shafts and shock standoffs are available as upgrade options for stock racing
  • Floating servo to
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Mar 09, 2019 @ 12:23 PM | 20,729 Views
This will be an evolving thread as I build and review a PR Racing SB401-LW. Look for regular updates to this post as I plan to race this buggy in the 13.5T Latemodel Oval class at Thornhill Racing Circuit.





Hits:
  • Loaded with upgrades in the kit for exceptional value!
  • Global Team Driver Support with setups posted on FB and PetitRC
  • One of the lowest LCG designs I've seen on the market!
  • Aluminum: hangers, motor mount, hexes
  • Carbon: towers, battery strap, ackermann, steering support
  • Easy access front/rear diffs for super quick tuning changes between rounds
  • Slide lock aluminum motor mount with Center slipper which is perfect for stock racing on medium to high traction surfaces
  • Aluminum shafts and shock standoffs are available as upgrade options for stock racing
  • Wire management braces for super clean wiring jobs
  • Aftermarket support from RideLow Racing (center gear cover) and Ardntcraft fan shroud

Misses:
  • Currently only 2 distributors in the US, but there is promise of a large distributor picking up PR soon!
  • Superseded by the 401R, very few Type-R parts are compatible
  • Probably more cost effective to sell the 401LW and buy a 401R than to upgrade with Type-R parts
  • Only 5 labeled bags A - E, will need to spend some extra time organizing parts during build
  • E clips used in gear diffs, probably worth it because they don't leak
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Jan 06, 2019 @ 06:29 PM | 23,120 Views
One of the most important part part of vehicle maintenance (next to cleaning and/or replacing worn bearings) is replacing worn pins on your drive shafts. It's very easy to over look this item and if not addressed (at the first hint of any flat spots forming on the pins) then you risk causing premature wear on the out drives. Once the out drives start to wear, you'll see "cups"form where the flat spots of the pins start to cut into the metal like a knife into warm butter which can cause very inconsistent cornering as the diffs can lock up and you risk snapping a drive shaft. It can be VERY expensive to replace drive shafts and out drives, but it is dirt cheap to replace the pins when you use a pin replacement tool which can pay for itself on the very first use!


Here's an example of worn pins that are so far gone from a very poorly maintained vehicle:





If you only race 1/8 cars which typically use 3mm thick pins, then I would highly recommend the Mugen Pin Replacement Tool because it comes with a ratchet wrench to help keep costs down. High quality "hardened steel" pins are available from Hudy as a great source XRay also sells some pins but they are not listed "hardened" so they may not be as durable. Another option is to buy in bulk off eBay, this has worked for me, but I have noticed they tend to wear a little more frequently.


If you race a 1/10 cars, then chances are you will need to replace 2.5mm pins and RC Renew sells a pin tool ...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Dec 30, 2018 @ 01:21 PM | 23,801 Views
Tire warmers have been around for a long time, but they are mostly designed for on-road racing classes. I have found that when temps drop below 70F, it's best to break out the warmers if you want to get an advantage in racing. I no longer race on-road anymore, but the off-road club in my area installed a turf track just over a year ago. As cooler weather has settled in this season, I've noticed some of the faster drivers have been showing up to the track with tire warmers. What I've found is that with a set of warm tires that my lap times are right on par with warm summer days!


There are many different brands to choose from, but I will show you how I've modified a set of GT Power Tire Warmers to be used with 1/10 Buggy wheels. For smaller diameter tires like Schumacher Cactus and ProLine Pyramids, there is no modification necessary, but most traditional tires will need the velcro belt extended about 3.5". I simply cut a couple 3.5" strips of "One-Wrap" straps, if you want to get fancy, you can get a 1" wide roll of this material here. I am using the (1/2" doubled up) red strapping to make it easier to see in the photos.







One particular thing about these warmers that I don't like, is that the temperature sensor is "free floating" and there have been times where the sensor fell out of place which will not shut off the warmers when they get to the desired temp setting. *** There are newer versions of this warmer where the senor...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Nov 09, 2018 @ 04:45 PM | 45,476 Views
The purpose of this thread is to help folks make an educated decision on what is the best 1/10 4WD SCT (ROAR Spec) for their specific needs. Before we take a look at any specific brands, I would like to share how my Evaluation Index works:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...aluation-Index

I am not going to go into great depth for each car but will do my best to collectively gather key pieces of information to help me evaluate and compare between each choice to help you take some of my preferred variables into consideration. By all means, I would encourage you to add some of your own personal variables and adjust your own weighted index to suit your personal needs as well. I don't intend to cover everything here, but just hit what I perceive as the most important points of consideration (to me) and help you use my guide as a starting point for you to make your own decision on which brand might be the best for your needs.

Keep in mind that at the time of this writing, prices and availability may be subject to change. Please feel free to post up new vehicles or new releases/pricing, and I will do my best to update the thread accordingly.

Race Grade vs Basher Grade?

For obvious reasons, if you will be doing any club level racing on a track, then I would encourage you to only consider a race grade truck with proper team driver support. Industry standard support to be considered "Race Grade" are setups posted on Petit RC:
site.petitrc.com/reglages/
...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Oct 24, 2018 @ 10:32 PM | 24,048 Views
So I recently bought a TEKNO ET410 and ran into thermal issues with a generic 2-Pole 5.5T motor in the truck, after swapping out a spare 7.5T motor, I just wasn't impressed with the torque and decided that I wanted to try a 4-Pole motor, however I did not want to use a HobbyWing motor because they come with a 5mm shaft and are designed for 4WD SCT's. I have spoken with a TEKNO team driver in my area and he cautioned that 4WD SCT motors would tend to generate too much torque and cause on-power push in the corners. I first tried a 2WD SCT motor (SC211-4400KV) from TenShock, but would later discover that TenShock motors are not compatible with HobbyWing ESC's, doh!


In my quest to find a 4-Pole 2WD SCT motor to help hit the sweet spot of slightly more torque than traditional 2-Pole motors but not as much torque as 4WD SCT motors, I came across a batch of discontinued Novak NX4-3900KV 4-Pole 540 motors on eBay for $35 shipped:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVAK-NX4-4...72.m2749.l2649


There were 10 of these motors available at the time I made the purchase 3 days ago (talk about fast shipping!), but only 5 available now at the time of this writing. Who knows if any more of these motors will pop up elsewhere on the net because Novak went out of business a couple of year ago:
http://www.redrc.net/2016/06/novak-s...rly-4-decades/


With no warranty support or spare parts, I'm only looking at this as a disposable motor, and for $35, I'm willing to take the risk!


Full specs of the...Continue Reading
Posted by bill_delong | Oct 08, 2018 @ 02:23 PM | 23,716 Views
In preparation to review some vehicles (subjectively), I feel that I need to first explain what my "Evaluation Index" is and how I have come up with these numbers, also allowing those to use my index as an example to prioritize custom rankings based on personal preference. The key point here is that nobody can definitively say brand "x" is better than brand "y" without first giving examples for how they have based their opinion and that's my goal here in explaining how my rankings are adjusted.



To me, there are 4 key areas that I like to score for my evaluations, feel free to add more to suit your personal preference but this is how I roll up my evaluations to keep things as relatively simple as possible:

1) Value - This is a combination of overall price and quality of components that you get for a given price. Generally, the lower the cost the higher the score, however there is an exception to this rule if upgrades are included which would offset the price where bundled upgrades will typically cost far less than if you bought them separately which in turn can increase the score.

2) Durability - This is really hard and almost impossible to measure with any definitive precision. In most cases, I have either owned or seen these cars crash/break first hand at various tracks in my area. I have taken into account the various conditions such as speed, ambient temperature etc with estimating on what I perceive to be a realistic score. In some...Continue Reading