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Views: 86
All broken nose parts have been cut offi only have the F3 former and will need to rebuild forward from here -
Views: 94
The remainder of the motor mount needs to be cut ofg -
Views: 97
The might be repairable but the belcranks i installed really limited aileron control and response plus the wing can be built lighter -
Views: 106
The nose mod involves adding 60mm to the nose to remove about 400grams of nose weight
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Views: 88
My original expectation of cost to complete was around $700.00. As I have had to procure pretty much everything to build this model this has well and truly blown my budget -
Views: 163
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Views: 137
2nd material purchase for fuselage and wing tops -
Views: 101
My purchases for Fueling and Rx / Start up. I havent gone the path of getting a full field box, so these purchases are not the best ones, but should get me in the air (ie. Prolux starter would be better and an electric fuel pump) -
Views: 89
Rechargeable Flow starter and Rx battery pack (I may updgrade to 2 off batteries depending on weight and flying performance) -
Views: 101
Manual fuel pump, filter for my fuel caddy to tank and refueling hose
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Views: 177
Setup -
Views: 179
Elevator DR to 70%, deflection is about 20 Degrees. This is my low rate -
Views: 190
Elevator DR to 100%, Deflection is about 30 Degrees. I will try this as my high rate. -
Views: 192
Elevator DR to 100%, Deflection is about 30 Degrees. I will try this as my high rate. -
Views: 179
At Rest Ailerons -
Views: 164
Aileron DR to 80%, Deflection is about 12 Degrees. -
Views: 174
Aileron DR to 80%, Deflection is about 12 Degrees. -
Views: 162
Aileron DR to 100%, Deflection is about 16 Degrees. I will try this as my high rate
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Views: 242
FIG 1: Initial Plan - Install 6mm carbon rod (trim out part of foam rudder tab for carbon rod first) The foam tab was cracked down the line of the cut and no doubt will crack again -
Views: 249
FIG 2: On second thought....that wont stop torsion on the remaining tab. To HELL WITH IT. Install a new plywood tab and sufficient length to transfer control. So, trim out 6mm wide of foam 26mm deep and 117mm long -
Views: 279
FIG 3: I laminated two 3mm pieces of ply approx. 112mm long by 26mm wide together with Epoxy. Once the epoxy dried, I predrilled the control horn holes with a 1mm drill bit. Then using gorilla glue (Vise - Polyeurthane glue) glued in the spar -
Views: 239
FIG5: Next day. All hard and ready to install the Horns
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Views: 185
You will need: 1mm tie wire Hot glue gun and stick Epoxy Pliers Hex keys (to dismantle the wheel control horns) -
Views: 185
Here is the break...it will happen! The wheel and axle has been removed for clarity -
Views: 232
FIG 1. After epoxy of the sleeve to the metal bracket, use tie wire to put tension on the repair -
Views: 179
Figure 2: Do it twice -
Views: 184
FIG 3: Hot glue over the entire repair area to protect the tie wire and encase the repair -
Views: 188
FIG 4: Complete
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Views: 263
This is what I collected off the Field -
Views: 227
The nose before I pulled it apart. Took off the cowl, pulled out the ply motor mount and ply battery tray. -
Views: 257
Here is half of the nose. I actually split the nose along the original split line to make repairs more robust -
Views: 245
Here is half the nose. I have started using my Polyethelene glue ready for the motor mount (I use Vise which is basically Gorilla Glue) -
Views: 239
Here is the nose assembled again and glued and taped up while the glue dries. This was Stage 1. -
Views: 194
Stage 2 involved putting the two large pieces of the fuselage together. I considering reinforcing with carbon rods, but the walls of the fuse are too thin. -
Views: 241
Stage 3: Time to connect my new nose to the repaired fuselage. Lots of bracing tape was required to hold shape and restrict the glue to exploding everywhere while it dried. -
Views: 223
TA-DA! Ready to fly, albeit a little less attractive.
TopRC FW190 PNF 1200mm owners, as part of your preflight checks....check your wing join seam with a little loading. (eg. face the model towards you, grab the leading edge of each wing and try to flex them gently up and inspect the load). Read below for why
To FW190 2The PNF kit comes with the wing already assembled which is great.
Recently though, the model has been acting erattically when banking hard or pulling out of dives or loops, fighting Aileron control until the model slowed down.
I fly the model 4S and really pull a lot of G's at high level. This and added to rough landing fields and (on occasion) loading other models on top of her (something you shouldn't do) means that those poor wings, despite being 6mm carbon rod reinforced, take a lot of punishment.
Ive also had a couple of landings where the gear just 'did the splits' and allowed the prop to strike resulting in a instant nose over. At first, I thought it was the crusher dust on the landing strip making the wheel slip outwards. I was wrong.
My original post here
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2250212
As a result of the suggestions, I found at least part of the problem. Can you see it?
HINT: The slight separation to the rear of the wing join gives it away.
Yes, my wings glue (clear gum type cement) has given in and is allowing the wings to flex up under load.
Here it is with a little wing loading
So, its time to reconnect the wings.
For this I chose hot glue, however I think the...Continue Reading
To FW190 2The PNF kit comes with the wing already assembled which is great.
Recently though, the model has been acting erattically when banking hard or pulling out of dives or loops, fighting Aileron control until the model slowed down.
I fly the model 4S and really pull a lot of G's at high level. This and added to rough landing fields and (on occasion) loading other models on top of her (something you shouldn't do) means that those poor wings, despite being 6mm carbon rod reinforced, take a lot of punishment.
Ive also had a couple of landings where the gear just 'did the splits' and allowed the prop to strike resulting in a instant nose over. At first, I thought it was the crusher dust on the landing strip making the wheel slip outwards. I was wrong.
My original post here
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2250212
As a result of the suggestions, I found at least part of the problem. Can you see it?
HINT: The slight separation to the rear of the wing join gives it away.
Yes, my wings glue (clear gum type cement) has given in and is allowing the wings to flex up under load.
Here it is with a little wing loading
So, its time to reconnect the wings.
For this I chose hot glue, however I think the...Continue Reading
The small plastic batter hatch latch 'disappeared' on the weekend (shook off in flight...was lose from a couple of rough landings anyway) and so I came up with a solution.
I had a spare worm gear axle which due to its end cog, makes it perfect to finger screw into the cowl.
As a locking plate, I just flattened out the hook shown below on the right, and trimmed it back to size.
It takes more time obviously to unscrew and then open the hatch, but it is infinitely more rigid. The hook also already has a hole in it so no drilling required.
Finished product
...Continue Reading
I had a spare worm gear axle which due to its end cog, makes it perfect to finger screw into the cowl.
As a locking plate, I just flattened out the hook shown below on the right, and trimmed it back to size.
It takes more time obviously to unscrew and then open the hatch, but it is infinitely more rigid. The hook also already has a hole in it so no drilling required.
Finished product
...Continue Reading
Following my nasty nose in on the weekend as a result of a number of factors (not sure which one was the most critical) which included visual aspect recognition, I am in the process of trialling high visibility colour to the underside of the wing.
I am starting with just a yellow to the underside wingtips using acrylic art paint.
This is the paint used
I am hoping this will make it a little easier at long range to pick up if the model is turning away or turning towards me when sillhoutted against a bright sky.
End product. Airbrushing would have been sooo much nicer, but this will be effective. We shall see on the weekend.
This is with two coats. I have one more to do tonight to eliminate the blue still coming through from the base coat.
I am starting with just a yellow to the underside wingtips using acrylic art paint.
This is the paint used
I am hoping this will make it a little easier at long range to pick up if the model is turning away or turning towards me when sillhoutted against a bright sky.
End product. Airbrushing would have been sooo much nicer, but this will be effective. We shall see on the weekend.
This is with two coats. I have one more to do tonight to eliminate the blue still coming through from the base coat.
This post is to summarise solutions by others on the TopRC Fw190 thread, and demonstrate what it looks like. Plus some other tips that worked for me.
Under stock conditions, when your prop strikes the ground, the nut behind the spinner fan and the prop will automatically travel down the prop shaft.
If you are lucky, the prop will just seem loose, and some attention may be required to wind back the prop and fan and lock them back into place.
If you are unlucky, the fan and its nut will tighten itself so hard on the end of the prop shaft thread, that you cannot undo it without mechanical assistance. Moreso, the prop will now rub on the cowl which means you cant live with it anyway.
In this scenario, I was able to undo the fan and fan nut but clamping the end of the prop shaft with pliers and using brute force to undo it. The result however was to crush the thread at the end of the shaft making removal of the fan and fan nut impossible. Moreso, replacement of the prop and prop locking nut was also near impossible.
So, a recommended first up mod to the stock model when you receive it, is to get yourself a m4 nut (0.7 thread) and place it on the propeller shaft and wind it all the way down to the end of the thread. Then install a suitable washer BEFORE installing the Motor Fan and Fan nut. See below (sorry about the picture quality...looks like its from a soap opera!)
If you have already ruined the thread due to a prop strike, the following is a solution:
Get yourself a M4 0.7mm Thread Die.
They are around $6 to $8. better still borrow one like I did.
This will allow you to reshape the crushed thread without replacing the shaft (which usually means the motor)
As a backup, I ground a flat at the end of the shaft so I could grab it with pliers in future should I have any issues again.
Under stock conditions, when your prop strikes the ground, the nut behind the spinner fan and the prop will automatically travel down the prop shaft.
If you are lucky, the prop will just seem loose, and some attention may be required to wind back the prop and fan and lock them back into place.
If you are unlucky, the fan and its nut will tighten itself so hard on the end of the prop shaft thread, that you cannot undo it without mechanical assistance. Moreso, the prop will now rub on the cowl which means you cant live with it anyway.
In this scenario, I was able to undo the fan and fan nut but clamping the end of the prop shaft with pliers and using brute force to undo it. The result however was to crush the thread at the end of the shaft making removal of the fan and fan nut impossible. Moreso, replacement of the prop and prop locking nut was also near impossible.
So, a recommended first up mod to the stock model when you receive it, is to get yourself a m4 nut (0.7 thread) and place it on the propeller shaft and wind it all the way down to the end of the thread. Then install a suitable washer BEFORE installing the Motor Fan and Fan nut. See below (sorry about the picture quality...looks like its from a soap opera!)
If you have already ruined the thread due to a prop strike, the following is a solution:
Get yourself a M4 0.7mm Thread Die.
They are around $6 to $8. better still borrow one like I did.
This will allow you to reshape the crushed thread without replacing the shaft (which usually means the motor)
As a backup, I ground a flat at the end of the shaft so I could grab it with pliers in future should I have any issues again.
Follow the success of a similar project, I have decided to share my experience with creating a similar system for my TopRC Fw190.
My previous project was for a Durafly A1 Skyraider 1100m, and considering how much smoother the Fw190 seems to fly, I am expecting this to also be a success.
What you need:
- a tin box or aluminium box or sheet (say .5mm). I found an old tin box and it is important that it is flat to reduce the amount of work you have to do.
- Tin snips (probably safer to use a blank sheet of ply with the metal over and a jigsaw) or you can manager with wire cutters.
- Pliers
- 1 Small bolt and nut (say 35mm long)
- Self adhesive Velcro (cut to the size of the camera)
- Hobbyking HD Wing Cam (SKU:A-CAM)
- Large Nail and some self tapping screws (to create the fixing hole)
- Some sandpaper of file (to remove sharp edges after completion)
- 90-100gram counterweight for the nose once fitted.
Build Process
To save you a lot of time, I have created a template you can print out in A4 to scale and cut out. I used cardboard to make this template, and it took me two attempts to get it right.
CLICK HERE FOR TEMPLATE
Test fitting the template
...Continue Reading
My previous project was for a Durafly A1 Skyraider 1100m, and considering how much smoother the Fw190 seems to fly, I am expecting this to also be a success.
What you need:
- a tin box or aluminium box or sheet (say .5mm). I found an old tin box and it is important that it is flat to reduce the amount of work you have to do.
- Tin snips (probably safer to use a blank sheet of ply with the metal over and a jigsaw) or you can manager with wire cutters.
- Pliers
- 1 Small bolt and nut (say 35mm long)
- Self adhesive Velcro (cut to the size of the camera)
- Hobbyking HD Wing Cam (SKU:A-CAM)
- Large Nail and some self tapping screws (to create the fixing hole)
- Some sandpaper of file (to remove sharp edges after completion)
- 90-100gram counterweight for the nose once fitted.
Build Process
To save you a lot of time, I have created a template you can print out in A4 to scale and cut out. I used cardboard to make this template, and it took me two attempts to get it right.
CLICK HERE FOR TEMPLATE
Test fitting the template
...Continue Reading
This mod requires 2-1/2" Dia. Treaded Lightweight Wheel (2), a craft knife and some patience.
Wheels Replacement and sequencer/wheel cover changes
You firstly need to remove the old wheels. Don't lose the E clips holding them on!
Once done, you need to put the new wheel in the wheel back and determine how much foam you need to cut. From memory, it is about 5mm.
I also needed to trim about 3mm off each of the sequencer doors.
And finally, to prevent the wheel covers grabbing grass, remove the leading edge of each of the wheel covers at 45 degrees from the wheel axle.
Put the new wheels on and test. Trim foam as required, then go again.
The video above gives an indication of how much foam you have to chop out for the wheels to fit.
Raking the gear forward to prevent nose overs on grass
Lastly, to solve nose-overs, the gear needs to be raked forward.
To achieve this, I did this with 2 small rectangular pieces of balsa (5mm thick) stacked on top of each others at the rear of each gear. I also used slightly longer screws.
The reason balsa is a good choice is because it isn't rigid, so will absorb some of the landing shock.
Once screwed in, the balsa will compress some, but do not tighten too much. Once you get resistance from the screw, that will be all you need. It will seem a little wobbly to stress, but it actually works really well.
In the images above, you can see the second layer of...Continue Reading
Wheels Replacement and sequencer/wheel cover changes
You firstly need to remove the old wheels. Don't lose the E clips holding them on!
Once done, you need to put the new wheel in the wheel back and determine how much foam you need to cut. From memory, it is about 5mm.
I also needed to trim about 3mm off each of the sequencer doors.
And finally, to prevent the wheel covers grabbing grass, remove the leading edge of each of the wheel covers at 45 degrees from the wheel axle.
Put the new wheels on and test. Trim foam as required, then go again.
| Hobbyking (TopRC) FW190 Gear Mod view and operation (0 min 23 sec) |
The video above gives an indication of how much foam you have to chop out for the wheels to fit.
Raking the gear forward to prevent nose overs on grass
Lastly, to solve nose-overs, the gear needs to be raked forward.
To achieve this, I did this with 2 small rectangular pieces of balsa (5mm thick) stacked on top of each others at the rear of each gear. I also used slightly longer screws.
The reason balsa is a good choice is because it isn't rigid, so will absorb some of the landing shock.
Once screwed in, the balsa will compress some, but do not tighten too much. Once you get resistance from the screw, that will be all you need. It will seem a little wobbly to stress, but it actually works really well.
In the images above, you can see the second layer of...Continue Reading
