FPVsummituk's blog View Details
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 15, 2020 @ 04:40 AM | 9,451 Views
Recently I made an offer to Arcright, to design and 3D print a VTx housing that allowed a fan to cool it.....
The VTx is a Mateksys VTx 1G3.....attached to this will be a micro heatsink.
The fan is just 20mm Diameter.
Everything was very small, but an interesting little project.
So here is the result, Iíve included the STL files should anyone want to print one.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Oct 08, 2018 @ 09:20 AM | 10,310 Views
Well guys Iíve finally got around to designing and 3D printing a roof spoiler, housing the working brake lights, to fit onto the Tonka T top roof.
I based the design around the brake lights from Hobbyking.........https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...ke-lights.html

RockApe’s New Roof Spoiler with brake lights. (0 min 19 sec)

I have designed the spoiler as a one piece 3D print.......once it has been cleaned up, the raised letters just need to be highlighted in a contrasting colour, the leds added and you can fix the spoiler to the roof.........here are the photos and the stl file.........Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Apr 14, 2018 @ 01:48 PM | 6,435 Views
I’ve redesigned the Gimbal to take a Runcam 2 camera........if you print off the camera holder, then attach the runcam holder to it........lining up the camera catch to the notch in the printed holder ........it should leave the camera lens about 20mm forward of the Gimbal tilt pivot point and sitting directly above the pan pivot line........

The rest of the Gimbal is the same as the GoPro hero 2 Gimbal that I posted earlier........

There are no other parts required, other that the servos, servo arms and a push rod........once printed, it just needs cleaning up.......then the camera holder is slotted into the yoke, the spacer is dropped onto the lug on the holder and the locking pin is pushed through into the yoke from the holder to form the other pivot, the pin is then twisted through 90 degrees to lock the whole thing into place.........note:- the lower horizontal rib on the yoke base is the front.

Here are the 4 stl files and photos........so just 3D print off the files and assemble the Gimbal...........Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Mar 25, 2018 @ 02:07 PM | 6,414 Views
Well guys, now that I have a 3D Printer, I thought that I would redesign the RockApe’s front end.......something that I have been wanting to do for several years....... integrating the led lights and a deeper grille all into one structure......the difficult part was styling it so that it wouldn’t look like a modern front end bolted to the square 70’s style of Tonka Bronco......I also wanted the yellow truck bodywork to continue onto the new front end......but at the same time I wanted to add the black bumpers and grille bezel, which is not only in line with the current colour scheme, but keeps some of the original Tonka front end style......so with this in mind, plus the fact that the whole assembly is bigger than my printer bed......I decided to split the whole front end into 7 parts......the main body (1), the grille bezel (1), the grille bars (1), the bumpers (2) and the clear lamp lenses (2).

During the design process I designed 8 sets of grille bars......so I have added all 8 designs as STL Files.......giving people the opportunity to choose which grille look they want, as each one has identical fixings it will fit perfectly into the Grille Bezel.

The lenses are cut (using the lens template included in the stl files) from a sheet of 1mm thick polycarbonate Lexan, which is unbreakable and almost impossible to scratch....... the grille mesh was purchased from a company that make scale metal mesh for model making......the led lights were from Hobbyking.....Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Mar 01, 2018 @ 07:08 AM | 6,739 Views
Iíve had the 3D Printer for a month now.......so I thought that it was about time that I designed and built something for the RockApe........so here it is........a camera Gimbal for the GoPro hero 2.......
I have based it on the metal and plastic version that I made some 6 years ago, as it is still working ok, I figured that the basic design was more than stable........I use Velcro on the back of the camera to hold it to the back of the camera holder, and have never had the camera come loose, even though it has rolled down hills and run head first into a tree.......the tilt servo is attached to the rear of the camera holder with a connecting rod to a ball joint on the outside of the yoke .......the yoke just sits on top of the pan servo.......I have added a hole to the bottom of the camera housing so that it will give access to the pan servo fixing screw without the need to disassemble the gimbal.......just lift out the camera and the access hole is exposed.

There are no other parts required, other that the servos, servo arms and a push rod........once printed, it just needs cleaning up.......then the camera holder is slotted into the yoke, the spacer is dropped onto the lug on the holder and the locking pin is pushed through into the yoke from the holder to form the other pivot, the pin is then twisted through 90 degrees to lock the whole thing into place.........note:- the lower horizontal rib on the yoke base is the front.

Here are photos and the stl files should...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 19, 2016 @ 04:23 AM | 7,648 Views
I only had one channel for the gearshift and diff lock......but I wanted to de able to drive in low gear and only lock the diffs when required.......so to do this I allocated channel 2 to a three way switch on the controller......then added a Traxxas T-Lock controller......part # 5697......to channel 2 on the Rmilec signal converter.......I then added a Y Harness to each A & B channel on the T-Lock switch......the gearshift servo lead was added to the A channel harness......the two diff lock leads were added to a Y Harness which was attached to one leg of the B channel harness......
So now the first position on the controller switch gives high gear/unlocked diffs.....the second position gives low gear/unlocked diffs......and the third position gives low gear/both diffs locked.......
But I also want warning lights on the instrument panel that can be seen in my goggles.....so, I added a cheap mini servo, modified into a directional switch, to each spare leg of the Y-harness from the A and B channels......LED lights were set into the instrument panel and attached to each servo switch......now I have one warning light for low gear and another for diffs locked......both shine directly into the on board GoPro.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 14, 2016 @ 10:10 AM | 8,734 Views
I decided that the RockApe's driver needed a companion to share his adventures with.......so I decided to add a Navigator, complete with a turning head.......I managed to cut enough of his back to expose the part that holds his head on, so I was able to cut it off, allowing me to keep the head and neck in tact.

I added a small servo into his back lining up the spigot with the centre line of his neck......I added a plastic tube to the spigot that was long enough to reach the top of his head from the inside.......I then drilled a hole through the top of his head and added a screw to hold it in place on the tube ( I wanted to be able to remove the head, should the servo need replacing)...... The helmet is held onto the head with double sided tape.......so it can be easily removed.

At the time I just added the servo to the steering, but I have since added it to a Y-Harness on the camera pan channel, so I can now make him look around while driving in a straight line.......as where ever the camera looks, so does the Navigator.

Edit: I have now reverted back to linking the passenger head movement to the steering, as I found that whenever the video panned to the right all you could see was the back of the drivers head, it looks much better seeing his face.

The photos shows the servo placement and the navigator seated in the truck.
This video shows the head movement.
Tonka Summit Animated Driver and Passenger (0 min 38 sec)

Posted by FPVsummituk | Apr 13, 2015 @ 09:56 AM | 9,550 Views
RockApe Specs:

Owner: FPVSummituk
Body: Tonka Bronco (1970s)
Chassis: Traxxas Summit
Esc: Tekin RX8 GEN2
Motor: Tekin T8 GEN2 1900kV Brushless.
Wheels: ProLine Desperado with Trencher X tyres.
Battery: Truck motor: 2 X Turnigy Graphene 7500 mAh 2S2P.......lights, servos and ancillaries: Turnigy 4000mAh.
Tx Futaba T8FG Super Radio coupled to EZUHF Tx and 8 channel Diversity Rx linked to Rmilec Signal Converter.
SKYRC GC302 RC Car Gyro fitted to steering
Camera: GoPro HERO 2
3D printed pan/tilt gimbal
RV Camera
LED Headlights
IP Warning lights: Blue LED - Low Gear. Red LED - diffs locked.
LED Rear Brake Lights
Truck VTx: RMRC 1500mw 1.3GHz
Relay VRx: RMRC 1.3GHz Black International
Relay VTx: 250mw 5.8GHz (5860mhz)
VTx Battery: Truck-Turnigy 2200mAh.....Relay 4000mAh
Relay HobbyKing DV Recorder
Goggle: Fatshark Dominator HD with 5.8GHz VRx, SpiroNet antenna
Headtracker: Fatshark Trinity Module
Weight: 26lbs.

Radio Configuration:

Channel 1: Steering + Passenger head movement.
Channel 2: Diff Lock + Gearshift operated independently via a Traxxas T-Lock switch.
Channel 3: Throttle + Brake lights + Rear view camera + Ess One Plus engine sound module.
Channel 4: Lights+strobe lights
Channel 5: Headtracker pan
Channel 6: Headtracker tilt
Channel 7: Passenger waving arm + Ess One plus Dixie horn.
Channel 8: Siren.

RockApe Accessories:

Reversing Camera activated automatically when reverse is selected.
120db Siren.
...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Feb 04, 2014 @ 11:54 AM | 10,372 Views
I decided to add a set of headlamps, so I found some on the Hobbyking site, https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ke_Lights.html, they are twin LEDs, each lamp is made up from 12 high power LEDs, so with 4 lamps you end up with 48 LEDs, and boy are they bright.
They are quite deep, about 12mm, so they do stand forward a long way when surface mounted. So I decided to revamp the look of the whole front panel. The size of the LED sets determined the size of the headlamp surrounds and the size of the new radiator grille. I fabricated everything from 1.5mm ABS sheet and Perspex, and bought the aluminium grille mesh from eBay.
The lights are running from a seperate 6v battery and the attached photos show the light throw. The distance from the truck to the door is about 30 feet, and is the only illumination in the photo, so you can see that it should be fine for night driving, and I always have the Summit lights and the roof bar lights to turn on should I need any aditional light.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 26, 2014 @ 01:23 PM | 9,918 Views
I decided to make the RockApe more friendly. So I have adapted the actionman's arm so that he can wave to people. I bought a Turnigy TGY-778MG Alloy Case Digital Slim Wing Servo from Hobbyking. It is a very impressive little servo, I cut off the fixing lugs, removed the actionman's arm and cut a slot in his side to accept the servo. I held it in place with polymorph plastic, attached the servo horn to the arm and screwed it down to the servo. I added the servo lead to the siren via a Y harness, so now when I sound the siren the actionman waves to people.
Here are a few photos of the build.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 18, 2014 @ 06:45 AM | 10,264 Views
I don't know if you remember, but when I first tested the RMRC 1.3ghz VTx and Vrx, I mentioned that I was getting a very slight video interference in the form of five fine blurry horizontal lines. At the time I put this down to either the RV camera or the pololu relay. But reading comments on the pololu site, it seems that it canbe affected by the pulses from the esc BEC lead, they advised adding a ferrite ring to the lead.
So looking on eBay I found this :-
Clip On Soft Ferrite Ring - ESC UBEC SERVO FPV RC 2.4G 5.8G TX FATSHARK UK
The great thing about it is that you don't have to disturb anything, it just clips around the lead as it leaves the esc, and best of all, the problem is totally solved, no more interference what so ever, and all for the grand sum of £2.44.
ImagesView all Images in thread
Posted by FPVsummituk | Dec 11, 2013 @ 12:10 PM | 12,259 Views
I have decided to build a long range, twin dipole antenna mount for my new EZUHF diversity Rx.
My criteria is that:-
I want the antenna to stand 600mm above the Tonka roof.
I want to be able to remove it, when required, so that I can just use the stock 150mm antenna.
I want them to be separated at the top by about 300mm.
I want it to be spring loaded so that it won't get caught up on overhead branches etc.
I need it to be able to fold flat for transportation in the trunk of my car.
It needs to be strong enough to hold the antenna weight in use without being either too stiff or too floppy.
I could only use plastic for support, as carbon fibre or metal, being conductive, would interfere with the signal.
So with all that in mind I started to design my mount. I purchased some 2mm dia. plastic rod, a length of rubber tubing, some metal springs, a reel of spiral cable wrap and 2 Nylon Spiral Cable Glands. I then ordered 2 x 24" SMA dipole antenna from RMRC. So, after adding a rubber grommet, 2 x steel bolts, washers, wing nuts and a sheet of plastic I was ready to begin.
The first thing that I did was make the base unit top, I angled each side to give the required separation required at the top of the supports.
Into each I added the nylon spring cable glands.
The base was then designed to hold the bolts which would hold the whole assembly to the Tonka roof and at the same time retain the plastic rod via the rubber tubing and steel springs.
With the rubber tube...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 04:11 PM | 11,438 Views
As Nas (MyBee) said the other day, we have been working on a non-Arduino triggered rear view camera. I loved his RV camera, but said that I didn't want to get into programming, then he said that he thought that it could be done without the Arduino, and that was the time that he got me hooked. So several days of discussions, and Nas carrying out tests on MyBee, we decided on using the pololu relay switch to switch between cameras.
I ordered the camera and switch which arrived today, so with Nas's help I began the build, which turned out to be very simple.
Everything is wired up, the GoPro is now running through the pololu switch, and the camera is in location.
So I plugged it in and guess what, Nothing, just the GoPro, but no switching to the RV camera.
However, I attached it to a switch channel, and success, it switched from front to rear, no problem. So discussing it with Nas we agreed it was something to do with the throttle setting, or at least, how the Pololu switch reads the throttle input. Nas suggested that I should try to reconfigure the threshold values, using the supplied learning mode jumper.
This needs to be done for both forward and reverse throttle, after a couple of goes, I found that the best setting was zero to the wheels just about to turn, the Pololu switch then sets it mid way between the two, which means that, on the ground, the throttle movement just takes up the slack in the transmission, and the truck doesn't move. I also found that by just a firm...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 03:57 PM | 9,930 Views
I used Calidave's body mount method, which uses the existing Summit body mount attached to the body so that it will just slide into the chassis and body clips applied below the chassis mount hold the body in place.
However, using this method the body can slide down unless there is something between the body and chassis to support the weight.
For this I have taken several rubber sealing grommets, cut a cross into the middle of the grommet, and push several one on top of the other over each body mount. You can add or subtract the grommets to get the right height and stance of the Tonka body on the chassis.
Not only does this method support the weight of the body, but it also acts as additional damping to eliminate vibration from the chassis over rough terrain, and the shape of the grommets make it look like a convoluted gaiter.
You can see how it looks in the attached photo.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 03:20 PM | 10,144 Views
I made a set of instrument dials that will fit the dial size of the Tonka IP.
They are saved as a JPEG and if printed off, full size, onto photo quality paper, will be fit behind the IP.
First I drilled each instrument dial leaving just the Tonka dial bezels.
Next I took a piece of clear acetate and cut it to fit on the back of the IP, around the steering wheel servo.
The photo image of the dials were individually cut oversize giving a couple of mm all round each dial.
With the acetate in place each decal was placed behind the dash and lined up with the holes in the dash and taped into place.
Once everything is lined up and taped, I then covered the whole area with duck tape, just to make sure that there would be no chance of moisture getting at the photo paper.

Click here to download a high resolution image. http://tonkasummit.weebly.com/upload...8721/image.jpg

This is how the IP will look once they have been applied.