This is the follow-up thread linked from the Official Fimi X8-SE ***Owner's Thread*** that can be found HERE
Here's the DIRECT LINK to this thread. Make sure to subscribe in the Thread Tools in upper right!
As requested by the user-base: For ordering / shipping questions please use the old v1 thread for that.
Any other questions / discussions / owner reports etc. are in its place now right here
This is a work in progress!
Thanks.
Here's the DIRECT LINK to this thread. Make sure to subscribe in the Thread Tools in upper right!
As requested by the user-base: For ordering / shipping questions please use the old v1 thread for that.
Any other questions / discussions / owner reports etc. are in its place now right here
This is a work in progress!
Thanks.
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So I finaly recieved my TinyHawk, what a nice 1S drone to fly, but boy does that VTX suck!
Had the idea Emax fixed the problem by now, but I guess they don't care charging full for a product that basicly has a huge fault in it's design.
I pulled the board out to re-route the 5.8 antenna ouside the canopy like most have done, but I did not like at all how it was hanging and wiggle around. Looked at some other options and made de hole in the back slightly larger with a dril to route it from under the back of the board / frame up to the outside. (it needs just another 0.5mm more space)
...Continue Reading
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Here are my up-to-date recommendations for the CZC:
[ EDIT: some links might be outdated, use google to search. Sorry about that! ]
- Use water-based polycrylic (Glitsa Parketlak PT) to protect the blue and grey paint.
- Put some clear or colored tape over the edges in front of the fuselage / canopy to protect the paint.
- Use 3700/4000 mAh 35/40C lipo's to stay light, easy balance and no need for batery tray.
- Stock ESC has no headroom: Strongly advised to disable ESC's build-in BEC and use a UBEC
- Best to change the EC3 to EC5 or XT90 connectors.
- Tie-wraps or velcro around main landing gear in socket to stop vibration.
- Easy battery tray mod with Velcro: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=14357
- Carefully balance the prop - be aware for heavy vibrations !
Stock motor / ESC is fine for normal / scale flying. !! Do not overprop !!
14x8E suggestion with more info: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=17397
The stock motor has plenty of power, but overheats when doing more than short bursts. (throws magnets)
When motor fails, or more aggresive / 3D flying is prefered, it's best to do a power upgrade:
Motor: Aerodrive SK3 5055 430kv +/- $50,-
All warehouses:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-5055-430kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html
ESC: Turnigy Plush 100A (80A will do, program card not needed / factory settings) +/- $44,-...Continue Reading
Here's a basic how-to / install guide on the TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device, that I've used on my Durafly Tundra.
Also as seen on the pre-release christmas teaser video on youtube
(in case it's blocked: watch it here on Vimeo!
I'm using a plug-and-play LED system from Hobbyking, this can be easy installed without the need to do any soldering:
TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000349-0
+
Turnigy Super Bright 2 x White Add On LED Light Set
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000357-0
These LED's are VERY visible, also during the daytime in bright sunlight.
The set also functions as a low-voltage alarm: The LED's will start to blink very fast when your cell reaches 3.5Volt, so you know that you have to land right away.
There's also an option to add a beeper, but I did not feel the need.
The only downside of this devise is that it reads only from the first cells on your lipo. It's not a good idea to connect the LED's and run them for a long time without flying around.
But for normal use (when flying around) the unballance is not bad at all. Just be aware that you need to ballance-charge your packs most of the time to keep your lipo healthy.
Note: I don't remove my wings for transport, and this install is based on that.
If you do need to to remove the wings: you will have to...Continue Reading
Also as seen on the pre-release christmas teaser video on youtube
| Durafly TUNDRA - Part 2 [ Christmas Lights Bonus ] (3 min 19 sec) |
(in case it's blocked: watch it here on Vimeo!
I'm using a plug-and-play LED system from Hobbyking, this can be easy installed without the need to do any soldering:
TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000349-0
+
Turnigy Super Bright 2 x White Add On LED Light Set
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000357-0
These LED's are VERY visible, also during the daytime in bright sunlight.
The set also functions as a low-voltage alarm: The LED's will start to blink very fast when your cell reaches 3.5Volt, so you know that you have to land right away.
There's also an option to add a beeper, but I did not feel the need.
The only downside of this devise is that it reads only from the first cells on your lipo. It's not a good idea to connect the LED's and run them for a long time without flying around.
But for normal use (when flying around) the unballance is not bad at all. Just be aware that you need to ballance-charge your packs most of the time to keep your lipo healthy.
Note: I don't remove my wings for transport, and this install is based on that.
If you do need to to remove the wings: you will have to...Continue Reading
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Views: 431
Start with removing the window sticker from the back. You will pull the paint off the foam, but you can simply put it back later with some glue (I used UHU-por) -
Views: 430
With the window stickers removed: make a hole below the wing PCB. Be careful you do not damage any wires inside. I used a BBQ stick. -
Views: 423
I routed the LED modules from the inside of the fuselage to the outside using a thicker wire. I taped the LED to it to pull it out. -
Views: 398
Here you see the LED module coming out of the fuselage. -
Views: 435
Remove the Tundra decal / sticker, and the white tape that sits over the servo leads. Be careful and take your time with this, it will come of easy and you can simply stick it back when the LED's are installed. -
Views: 411
The LED leads can simply be inserted above the servo wires in the wing. -
Views: 413
I also used UHU-Por (contact cement) glue to attach the LED's to the wing struts later. But first we put the white tape and Tundra sticker back. -
Views: 411
Before I put the white tape and decals back, I've smeared a very thin layer of UHU-Por on the foam. Everything sticks back together nice.
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Views: 393
Installing the hardware. Notis ty-rap for ESC -
Views: 440
Made a small floor (1.5mm plywood) to cover receiver and wires -
Views: 412
Other side -
Views: 400
Plenty of room for lipo -
Views: 407
Made a plastic strip for Lipo placement -
Views: 389
Notis velcro on both sides (here you see the "fluffy" part) -
Views: 405
Slide in -
Views: 406
Lipo in back
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Views: 335
I did not install the 2 balls as counterweight, as I also want to be able to use as a tow-glider in the future. -
Views: 329
Option to remove the motor (and counterweight in tail) and bolt on the nosecone with tow-release -
Views: 357
This is how it will look installed -
Views: 326
Here you see a M6 x 30mm, but replace it to M6 x 50mm to have the same weight as the 2 balls that come with the kit. -
Views: 324
Remove some parts -
Views: 369
Receiver installation, tube for Boda antenna -
Views: 370
Added a 2mm Carbon rod in the lower antenna tube, as I don't use it. -
Views: 328
Everything in place
Lot's of video's on my channel, please check it out and subscribe! 
| Gee Bee EPP 1000mm (8 min 44 sec) |
