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Posted by OldOz | Jan 22, 2014 @ 01:50 PM | 4,023 Views
Parts -

Motor - https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_4100kv.html
ESC - https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html
Pinion - https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10T_1pc_.html

Straightforward, and only about $30. BUT! - to do the BL mod, you'll have to be able to solder. Not too difficult, but has to be done right.

Unfortunately, no-one here seems to have put together a 'how to' step by step instruction plan, but a year or so ago we were all experimenting as we went along . And these days, the guys that want BL often tend to buy them that way, and modded from the get go.

However, the basic idea is that:
a) the unused connector on the F45 Rx is actually configured to give an ESC drive (PWM) signal. No-one knows why this is so, but it's a very handy feature! Accordingly the 18A Turnigy ESC signal input plug plugs in here (black wire nearest the PCB edge).
b) the + wire from the ESC is soldered to where the + from the battery connects to the RX PCB. Similarly the ESC - ive connects to where the - ive wire from the battery connects to the PCB.
c) the three ESC motor drive wires solder to the three BL motor wires (if the motor runs backwards, just reverse any two of them).
d) nice, but not absolutely essential - put a breakable link in the + lead to the ESC. This will help with setting the throttle range (see below) - I used a dismantled PC HDD power cable extension plug/socket, but anything capable of carrying 18A will do.

...Continue Reading
Posted by OldOz | Jan 20, 2013 @ 04:00 PM | 4,004 Views
Better Battery -
This (from many contributors) seems the best for f45
or alternate link (same battery, I think) -
B]Will require some minor mods to battery holder[/B], but fits well otherwise and has right connectors.
Posted by OldOz | Jan 16, 2013 @ 01:03 AM | 4,561 Views
Paperclip Mod -
The basic idea is to take a standard (or, preferably, one size up) paper clip and carefully shape it round the dogbone guide as per the picture. It tedious, but should be a neat fit and stay in place without help when you finish.
Then carefully go round the upper and lower parerclip/plasic join with 5 min epoxy - making sure none gets in the guide slots, of course.

I usually solder the 2 loose ends together as well, but this isn't really essential.
Also - I have done the job without removing the rotor head, just a bit more awkward.
Posted by OldOz | Jan 14, 2013 @ 08:01 AM | 5,874 Views
FWIW, my own ‘must do’ new F45 checklist (after initial hover test) - all page Nos refer to main F45 thread:
1) Install flybar bumper on main boom
2) ‘Paperclip and epoxy glue’ reinforcement of buckle (dogbone) loop guides on rotor head (see p184) – Or Hinnerk’s full rebuild mod when they fail (same page). Done both, on different F45s.
3) Check insulation around the main motor terminals – add heatshrink (or tape) if faulty. The canopy pushes hard on these wires, and a short here will total the FET on the main PCB instantly. Others have reported – and I’ve noted one of mine - coming OoTB with damaged insulation.
4) Anchor the PCB to support struts with glue gun. Similarly anchor other subassemblies to main PCB. Particularly gyro, if not flat type.
5) Remove at least 3 of the 5 tailrotor motor cover supports for improved airflow.
6) (nice, but not essential) Solid rod replacement for tube landing gear skids (the stock tube cracks very easily in front of the forward skid support). Or shove aluminium coathanger wire up stock skids to reinforce.

And for better fff, at the expense of a little stability –
7) Shim both blades (3-4 plastic binder reinforcement rings on each blade work well). The blades should be (only just) able to turn the rotor without shifting.
8) Remove horizontal stabiliser and support tubes from the boom. Add an equivalent weight (about 10g) of Bostik blu-tack (or hot glue) inside the nose tip of the...Continue Reading