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Posted by PittSpecial | Yesterday @ 10:39 AM | 260 Views
Guys,

Here's WEIGH-IN Session on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan using the Park Zone 480 and the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Bust.

Previous Post about WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under Load can be found at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan

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However, I did perform a new WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under load test during the night of Tuesday, November 19th, 2019 and here's the data:

I have performed my 3rd WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE UNDER LOAD test on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan that was configured with the Park Zone 480 motor and Castle Creations 45-AMP ESC and using GEN ACES 3-Cell, 2200mAH, 35C, Lithium Polymer battery pack and fully charged.

During a careful pre-test check, I found something wrong with the propeller adapter so, I changed it and it was a simple fix as I had access to the set screw holding the Propeller Adapter and there was enough space for the HEX Tool.



Here's the Video and Results of tonight's Test: APC 3-Blade 10 X 7 and Park Zone 480 Motor


1/4 Throttle - 39 Watts / 3.23 Amps / 12.22 Volts

1/2 Throttle - 146 Watts / 12.85 Amps / 11.42 Volts

Full Throttle - 219 Watts / 20.44 Amps / 10.74 Volts



WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE LOAD TESTING - Park Zone 480 Motor using APC 3-Blade 10 X 7 (2 min 9 sec)


===================================...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Nov 18, 2019 @ 10:35 PM | 913 Views
Guys,

Here's the previous Thread on this Project:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan

RE: Accommodating the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Project!
Busy CUTTING that dang Tough and Hard Cowling with my ROTARY TOOL Set. Then, I finished it with some stainless steel toe nail precision scissors and once I was able to get to the FRONTAL EDGE Smooth part of the Cowl it was a HOME RUN! Hey, it is NOT PERFECT but, I almost threw away Cowl so, it was a good recovery!


ISSUE WITH AR636 - REPLACED with AR8000 + SAT:

Many times this dang AR636 upon initiation it moves my Servos really hard to their end-points. Yes, I do realize the Software operation behind this but, when I Bound it to my Transmitter, I made sure that I Turned-OFF the AS3X stuff but, you could NEVER TURN-OFF these Features entirely and I should know because I can hear the Ailerons move slightly when I pickup the model after a typical flight and the initial sequence it moves ALL my Flight Control Servos something terrible!

I finally solved this by replacing it with a Spare Spektrum AR8000 + SAT.

It is now working like a Charm!

No more violent movement of my Flight Control servos UPON initial program sequence!

Additionally, I performed a Center-Of-Gravity check (several) by placing the battery at it's recommended location within the model and it balanced perfectly!

Here is the ViDEO showing the Park Zone 480 Operational inside the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Bust.

...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Nov 18, 2019 @ 06:08 AM | 2,283 Views
The earlier Post is at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...lite-AT6-Texan


1. Took out my Model Motors AXI 2826-10 as it tips the digital scale at over 7+ oz. (10+ oz with Dummy Engine)
2. Left the PZ-15 aside as it tips the digital scale at 5 3/8 oz. ( ~ 9+ oz with Dummy Engine).
3. installed the Park Zone 480 as it tips the Digital Scale at 3 3/4oz. ( 7.5 oz. with Dummy Engine.)

I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was on installing the Park Zone 480 motor (same POWER as 44-inch Wing Span T-28 Trojan).

A few trimming tasks on the round Plastic Mount for the PZ-480 was done to allow the Green Frame that holds the Dummy Engine flush against the firewall.

Someone please tell me what sort of tool I can use to cut into the Cowling as it is pretty thick and tough!...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Nov 15, 2019 @ 07:42 AM | 2,040 Views
Hello,

To see the First Blog Post of this subject then, please go to:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan

UPDATE: (The KIT has been fully Assembled - FINISHED)

I have performed Weigh-In sessions and taken pictures of just the Dummy Engine "Hollow" Bust in two (2) configurations on the Digital Scale (oz.).

The first is including everything that came in the KIT and I assembled using and following 95% of the supplied instructions from Peter.

The other is leaving OUT the Metal Bolts & Nuts that came with the KIT and the Exhaust Pipe.
(Going to use Tie-Wraps to secure Engine Bust onto the Green three-point mount for weight savings!)

I have also included High Resolution "CLOSE-UP" Pictures of this KIT that was kindly shipped by Peter so, you can see the excellent results using the GORILLA "CLEAR" Glue. This Glue doesn't seem to have added any weight and the Title saying it is "CLEAR" is exactly that because you just can NOT see any residue of Glue anywhere!

Okay, the pictures showing what you have been waiting for (Sort of........).

Oh, as far as the mounting, I have a surprise in store and it will be my favorite thing I do with these models.

Stay Tuned!





...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Nov 13, 2019 @ 04:56 AM | 2,586 Views
Guys,

A nice Gent by the name Peter from Germany has been dealing with 3D Printing and produced a scale 9-cylinder Engine Bust model that actually allows the Stock E-Flite 15 motor to go through the cavity of the Engine.

Details are at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Basic/page104

3D Files can be downloaded from:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1560

Here's my comments about the preparation of the parts from the Frame Molds.

1. Instead of drilling and other tools per the instructions, I have used an angle hook Pick Tool that was very effective in the cleaning of the main Engine Housing.
2. The Cylinder Push Rods need careful handling so as not to lose any because one of mine was ejected and flew a few feet at a location that was easy to recover.
3. Otherwise the instructions are very very well written.
4. Instead of CA, I am using Gorilla "Clear" Glue and it has been with great results.

SUMMARY:

The Pick Tool did a super and fast, effective job in cleaning up the inside of the main Engine housing.
This is by far the best Engine Model that I have ever come across and the quality is very good for 3D printer.

EDIT:

I am having great results in using the Gorilla "CLEAR" Glue!

Does NOT leave any residue, pretty much fast cure (comparatively to others) and it is CLEAR and does not look like there is any glue what-so-ever.

The warning label says to watch out for fumes but, I don't smell...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Nov 02, 2019 @ 03:04 PM | 2,462 Views
Guys,

Today was our RC Club Fun Fly at Moon Port Modelers RC Club in Titusville, Florida. Lots came to see the action and there was Lots of Action (Crashes)!

Of course this was during the Approach to the runway where two stationary poles where on either side of the Textile Runway and holding Party Ribbon material. Many just didn't pay attention to Lining Up their models and three Hit the Poles!

Well, I did pay attention and lined-UP perfectly in the middle of the Runway line and attempted to cut the Ribbon but, a very bad idea came to mine. I decided to come in Super Slow and with Gear Down and you guess it, the Gear did catch the Ribbon but, the model Stall as it was going too slow and crash landed at the Runway from about 5 Feet off the deck. Broke my model's Durafly 4-Blade Propeller and broke off Right Wing Tip clean off. I had a wooden Two Blade Prop (10 X 8) and used that and my Snorting Bull went up with Vengeance and flew again. Everyone applauded when it took off again.

One important NOTE on the selection of Propellers, that wooden 2-Blade 10 X 8 Glow prop was a Dog compared to the High Thrust Durafly 4-Blade propeller. I am searching as I type for two Spares and after that, I will be considering using the E-Flite 4-Blade. The 2-Blade just didn't have the CLIMB and I could not perform those crisp Cuban-8's with that 2-Blade. Well, at least it flew again for three flights with that 2-Blade!

I came with my Hobbico Super Star EP (3-Channel) modified...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 20, 2019 @ 02:45 PM | 2,998 Views
I know that many have old GWS Slow Stick Models that have been stored perhaps as long as mine and it takes just a few minutes to test and test the electronics and Radio Gear to make sure ALL Systems work flawlessly.

In my case with this RED GWS Slow Stick, I found today that the No-Name Brand 20-AMP ESC had a hole in the Heat Shrink Material right over the FETs and also during testing by connecting a Battery and Transmitter it just did not want to come alive! This particular Slow Stick is on a BERG super narrow band 72-Mhz (Castle Creations Product) and coupled with my JR XP-7202 Synth Transmitter that is just Rock Solid. Well, after several connects and disconnects with the Battery -to- ESC connector I found a strange issue with it being completely active and then, it went dead after a few minutes handling the connector!

I took off the Tape for the Positive and Negative at the ESC Connector (once I had everything disconnected from the Battery) and found a very bad SOLDER Joint at the Negative post. Needless to say, I just went ahead and replaced this ESC with the Bullet Proof E-Flite 25-AMP ESC and like magic the model stayed active without any issue nor brown outs. This exercise made me create a new Memory Location for this Slow Stick and on Channel 31 so, not all was lost and it has it's own memory location on the Transmitter!

Additionally, I checked all linkages and foam hinges and they all passed with flying colors!
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 20, 2019 @ 06:55 AM | 3,268 Views
Guys,

I had an opportunity super early this morning while the family was still asleep to work on at least one RED SLOW STICK with a BP Brushless motor, ESC and servos already installed, however, required some TLC and minor repairs.

This particular GWS Slow Stick had some modifications and RICHARD installed hollow Aluminum Rubber Band Securing Posts to allow for any size / shape rubber bands and not fear that they will come OFF during flight instead of just using the STOCK Plastic Nipples.

However, one section (Right Front Post plus Plastic Hardware) was observed to have been busted completely off and I had to improvise and repair. Luckily I have a good hardware collection of sorts and was able to fix the post by drilling baby drill on the top of the wing saddle and found a head bolt small enough with almost a flat head to fix and return this SLOW STICK in flying condition.

A few Pictures!
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 18, 2019 @ 02:54 PM | 1,927 Views
Guys!

Since my buddy (Gerry) is retired he beat me to having the first operational SLOW STICK from the lot I found in my house last night!

Gerry really wants to go back to relaxing times and fly SLOW and LOW as he has a Grand Daughter (2 years old) that is transfixed with RC Airplanes!

Here is Gerry's Dark Green SLOW STICK with Brushless Power! THE CRAZE IS BACK!





...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 17, 2019 @ 07:28 PM | 2,124 Views
Wow!

I had no idea that I had so many Slow Sticks and with a variety of colors!

I wished that I had the BLUE!

Two Slow Stick, I acquired from a good friend named RICHARD who moved away to Madison, WI.

Anyway, I found a brand new In-The-Box "YELLOW" Version Slow Stick, Slope Version (No Power System).

Got my hands FULL!

A few pictures from a few minutes ago!...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 17, 2019 @ 01:04 PM | 1,968 Views
Heck!

Talk about a revisiting an OLD and previously thought Long Gone GWS SLOW STICK!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s-at-Graves-RC



Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 04, 2019 @ 01:15 PM | 1,247 Views
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...n-BNF-LPU-ONLY

Okay guys!

I like to thank those that have replied and expressed interest in my nice flying and super large T-28 Trojan that was modified with lots of care and expense.

A nice gentleman at my RC Club this morning purchased it with CASH on hand after he saw it fly after an 8 minute routine of good aerobatics and several touch & goes!

He was very impressed on the manner that this can slow down better than a GWS SLOW STICK.

The good news on top of the CASH "is" that I will still see this great model fly at my RC Club and still will enjoy it watching it while sitting down! LOL!

A few pictures of today!...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 03, 2019 @ 10:33 AM | 1,251 Views
Okay,

It was just perfect conditions and so much so that I almost got my original Park-zone P-47 Thunderbolt to do some very close to the ground (inches from the deck) flying with partial flaps and it almost landed! Got some behind me yelping and giving them Wedgies of sorts! HA!

Seriously, my original P-47 Thunderbolt (modified) with the Park Zone 480 (Black Stock Brushless Motor) flew delightfully with very quiet manners and ZERO vibrations coming from the Business End (Motor / Prop / etc...). Additionally, the landing could have been picture perfect but, I purposely pulled excessive UP Elevator to allow the model to slam down on the Textile Runway from about 15 inches and the Left Retract held with the Gorilla Wood Glue! During the Pre-Flight checks, I only had to cut around the main Gear Skirts as some of the Glue got around the skirts and adhered to the bottom of the wing. A hobby knife and being careful with the Retract cable did the trick and dislodged the Plastic Skirt from the Bottom of wing. I love this Gorilla Wood Glue as it does not leave any ugly residue.

The newer P-47 Thunderbolt (completely stock) with the provided from factory Park Zone 15 Black Brushless motor performed just flawlessly and with good power! This model I didn't fool around with and maintained Airspeed throughout it's flight routine. It is at least 2 ounces heavier up at the Business End and I mitigated the tendency of NOSE-OVER by pulling the flight (GENs ACE 3-Cell,...Continue Reading
Posted by PittSpecial | Oct 02, 2019 @ 01:36 AM | 1,242 Views
Wow!

I finally found out WHY-O-WHY my Original ParkZone P-47 Thunderbolt (Modified) had been observed with a vibration at the Prop!

After a little over seven (7) years after my modification from the ParkZone 15 BL motor -to- the ParkZone 480 BL (Stock Black Motors), it seems like the attaching screws that hold the 480 in it's Plastic Motor mount got lose!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...80-%28960Kv%29

At least two were pretty lose and a simple tightening was done. No, didn't use any Lok Tite because I didn't want to risk the motor internals with any of this stuff going inside the motor.

Anyway, at least I know now what was the issue.

Additionally, last time I flew it, the battery took a dump of sorts and didn't seem to have enough power or so I thought and stupidly I landed down range of the Textile Runway and into rather tall grass (weeds) and the Left Retract came out completely out of the wing and slightly cracked the wing near the plastic gun cannons mold line. The retract itself didn't get damaged and the wing structure (spar) fortunately was not damaged in any way!

Using Gorilla Wood Glue and the wing and Retract Mount is on it's way for like new condition!

Can't wait to fly it again.
Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 30, 2019 @ 02:52 PM | 2,287 Views
Hello good people!

In my quest to keep my Park Zone T-28 Trojan operational and with the Tricycle Landing Gear, most especially the NOSE Wheel Strut steering, I am investigating other models that will work to re-construct the lower portion of the STOCK Firewall of the Park Zone T-28 Trojan and Steering!

My model has completely been busted with lost of ill fated landings (no, I am NOT a beginner) just that it has over 1,000 flights and stuff happens even with the most experienced RC Flyer! Poor model is OLD and has lots of flights on it's log.

Okay, I am closely looking at this model: (FMS 1400mm Sky Trainer 182 - BLUE):
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/FMM007-Manual-EN.pdf

You will see the plastic firewall and the nose wheel strut with spring loaded action!

I have ordered both!

We shall see how this ends up! I will provide a new thread over at the ParkFlyers Section!

You can see these parts at the Horizon Hobby Web Site!

https://www.horizonhobby.com/FMM007P...SABEgKIw_D_BwE
Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 29, 2019 @ 01:42 PM | 1,194 Views
Okay good people,

First off, this has ZERO to do with the Re-Release of this same model by Horrizon / E-Flite a few weeks ago!


Besides Rocketsled666 who I know is going to say NOT to install any more additional items to make the Retracts work better because one is adding more stuff to fail (failure points), I am wondering what the REST of you OUT there have experienced with these Electric Retracts by E-Flite?

WHY?

Because at the start of initial activation of my Model the Main Retracts will NOT come DOWN so, I can taxi this large & heavy model. Yes, I store this model with GEAR-UP. I would have to disconnect the NOSE Wheel Retract in order to get the MAINS DOWN and then, Disconnect the MAINS and reconnect the NOSE retract so, ALL gears would be in the GEAR-DOWN position.

Not only is this a Hassle but, unnerving from a stand point of flying this model and placing the Retracts in GEAR-UP position as I am NOT certain if they will come back down????

I have the NOSE Retract and the Mains in a Y-Connector and the Output plug towards the Receiver so, NO separate Battery configuration as of yet.

My QUESTION "IS" does anyone have experienced this issue and if so, how did you solve it?

A Video that I recorded today but, as you can see ALL Operated like it should!

TIA!

E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan 78-inch wing span RC Airplane Model Retracts (2 min 49 sec)

Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 28, 2019 @ 04:00 AM | 1,718 Views
Been flying the TAR out of my little GWS pico Tiger Moth and still with the Himax HC2212-1180 Brushless Outrunner without any issue or problems!

A little additional Kv so, I can fly my pico Tiger Moth with just 2-Cells and still have good power while swinging a GWS 8 X 6 prop. Performs it ALL including a loop from level flight and etc....etc.....

Just a super power system!

Okay, for those wondering:
http://stores.aeromicro.com/himax-22...-runner-motor/


Power System Setup:

Himax HC2212-1180 Brushless Outrunner
Castle Creations ThunderBird 9 AMP Brushless ESC
GWS Std Narrow Servos
Castle Creations BERG 4-Channel Receiver
2-Cell, 1200mAH, Li-POLY <-- This is the largest Battery I use! It usually a 850mAH 2-Cell to keep it really light!
Pilot from ParkZone P-51D Mustang "Frankie"
Wheels, Dubro Lite Foam 1 1/2 inch diameter

Keeps my model really light!

Tiger Moth (2 min 29 sec)

Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 27, 2019 @ 10:00 AM | 2,201 Views
Guys!

Been flying my ParkZone Snorting Bull P-47 Thunderbolt for the past two days and visiting my RC Club on the way to work

The model is spectacular and never disappoints plus, it lands dead stick with minimal UP Elevator input. However, I was shocked this morning as I found myself landing with the Flaps with 4 degrees in the UPWARD Position, I mean it performed almost a perfect three point landing with very scale effects!

There was one RC Club member (Milt Farrow) who witnessed the calamity

Anyone landed their P-47 with UPWARD Flaps?

A few pictures!


Posted by PittSpecial | Aug 19, 2019 @ 08:29 AM | 2,235 Views
Guys,

Well, to me I got a super deal locally from a former co-worker (retired) and who sold me this GEM!

It is a Vintage Carl Goldberg Jr. Falcon! He came with three spinners to choose from, all for a cool $75 US Cash and delivered to my RC Club on Sunday morning!

Can't get better than this! The Kit is brand new and in super shape!

Thank you Peter!
Posted by PittSpecial | Aug 12, 2019 @ 04:28 AM | 2,251 Views
Guys,

I believe I found an Ugly side effect of how the Spektrum AR636 initially powers UP and how it moves the control surfaces. I am certain that this is why my Elevator is acting UP in-flight and WHY the servo ( I am certain it's the Elevator) servo at times makes this loud jamming noise right after AR636 initial Power-UP !

The following Video is my E-Flite AT-6 Texan with the stock Spektrum AR636 and I have been hearing and observing a loud jamming sound from my servos due to the manner in which the AR636 initially powers UP. This is very hard on the servos! That day I flew my AT-6 Texan twice with the new GEN ACES 3-Cell, 2600mAH, 45C Discharge Lithium Batteries and it flew great but, I am still anticipating UP Elevator during turns and other maneuvers, otherwise the model tends to nose down.

Just to be complete, I followed the instructions carefully and TURNED-OFF the help of the AS3X features but, after my AT-6 Texan lands and I hold it, I can hear the Ailerons still moving very slightly! I don't need any help!

The Jamming (at times) is very ALARMING at best because it sounds like the servo is Jamming up on initial Power-UP and Initiation of the Spektrum AR636.

My beloved AT-6 will now be a hanger queen until I will install that spare AR8000 with Satellite receiver.

I have posted the section of manual for the AT-6 Texan so, you all can see that it states:

Once the AS3X system is active, control surfaces may move rapidly. This is normal. AS3X remains active until the battery is disconnected


Okay, here's my Video where you may or may NOT hear the very violent movement of servos during initial Power-UP of the AR636!

Spektrum AR636 Receiver initial power-up 08-10-2019 (0 min 40 sec)