I needed a battery case and spied my wife’s old Samsonite cosmetic case. After getting approval from my middle management, I removed the tray and loaded it up with batteries. It has super-duper strong latches and easily holds 8 x 10,000mah 6s batteries, 4 x 2200mah 3s, and some little ones. Just add a Yeti sticker to preserve your dignity Next, I will remove the cylinders that supported the tray. You may want the tray; I don’t. They are held in with rivets that I will drill out. Could make a great garage sale find! Could also be lined with fire-resistant material. Happy Landings, Paul KK5EF

Looking for an adhesive perhaps better than the run-of-the-mill contact cement? Consider 3M weather strip adhesive. It comes in different versions—so which one is best? The car gurus recommend the 3M “black” and it comes in a tube in a box at auto store such as O’Reillys. It is used like a contact cement. Coat both surfaces and let them get tacky, then join. This is the best one if you use weatherstripping cement I’ve only used it in cars but it’s highly recommended by the gurus. There are different flavors and this is their top recommendation. Pehaps use a small stiff brush to control it. Good luck with your project.

IRC 5800 v4.1 users manual link to pdf. Yes this is the receiver that allows you to use two antennas, and the receiver circuitry selects the stronger signal:
http://www.immersionrc.com/downloads...rmanual_EN.pdf

GUIDE to Tips for Weller PT202 / PT201 Magnastat Soldering Station / Pencil / Iron. How to select a tip for the PT-202 soldering station with PT-201 pencil. It’s easy once you “know the code.”

These compatible tips start start with “PT” followed by a letter to designate the tip shape, then a number to designate the Fahrenheit temperature of the tip. Typical temperature range is from 6=600 degrees F, 7=700 F degrees, to 8=800 degree, in hundred degree increments.

For example, the PT-S7 is 700 degree tip in the “PT” series and the “S” designates a long “conical” or pointy tip. Oddly, a conical or pointy tip is also called an “O” shaped tip. The numeral “7” indicates 7 x 100degreesF = 700 degrees Fahrenheit temperature. There are several other tip shapes, including a flattened almost chisel-like tip that is called a "screwdriver" tip even if its tiny. For example, I use a small "A" “screwdriver” tip the PTA-7.

These tips in the “PT” series are also called Magnastat tips bc they use the Curie effect of magnets (heat diminishing magnetism — and here used to close/open a switch) to control the temperature of the tip. This works well for most soldering, unless you need lower temperature ranges.

For big main power cables, use a hotter, wider tip. For tiny connections, use a finer point, but keep in mind that the smaller tips lose their heat faster and may not work well for big jobs.

Update: I went to a local Frys electronics store and bought PT tips for as low as $3.50/tip! Nice to see the tips and sizes in my paws and get a sense of scale.

Here are some good illustrations of your tips choices. Please note that I have no connection with any vendors mentioned other than giving them my hard-earned money

Another good resource is the Mouser catalog page for Weller PT-series products for reference: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/648/2334.pdf

Directly via micro USB port - let me know if this works for Sony A6000 as it could bypass the IR trigger issues.
I have purchases a 10+5 pin mult-terminal connector and attempted to trigger the shutter release by connecting it to ground. It did NOT work. Same for AF (focus) pin. Nothing.

********************************* UPDATE: You must activate the FOCUS immediately before, or simultaneously WITH the SHUTTER. The shutter wire (to ground) will NOT work alone. This is why some user twist the focus and shutter wires TOGETHER, then use a switch or transistor to connect to GROUND to activate the focus and release the shutter to take a picture. *****************************

In my attempts, its not working. I must be missing something. Any help appreciated.

Make Camera Trigger Cable For Sony Alpha Series Cameras And Setup for Pixhawk (2 min 22 sec)

Exploring pin outs: UPDATE: its appears that a switch or transistor is needed to use this with standard servo controller. Its does NOT work with a standard servo signal. Apparently PixHawk may have some resource that is better.

Sony A6000.
http://peterwedege.blogspot.com/2016...-protocol.html

Info on line regarding pin assignments varies! BEWARE! If you can verify pints for Sony A6000 let me know! Screen shots mostly from website above, it’s a great resource.

This is how I learn DJI iOSD Assistant software :

I fly a large quad but want to learn to fly fixed wing so that down the road I can get a full size FPV Talon or Skywalker (or that twin engine Dream plane). Where do I start?

I already have a Taranis radio and even EzUHF module on 433, and video on 1.3. Extra class operator.

Here are my ideas after some reading:
1. Foam
2. Push prop
3. Belly landing (optional) capability
Then later....
4. Capability to add simple FPV once I master basics.

I think I’m a pretty fast learner and I’ve spent some time next to experienced pilots for decades in full-size Cessnas. That being said, I need something crash resistant as possible.

Is a micro-Talon too nice for a trainer? Open to suggestions. I see Bixlers and wish there was a smaller one. Ideas welcome.

Happy landings,
Paul

Two forum members have reported a problem with the Flytron v2 sLED IR trigger when used with Sony A6000 camera. I am one of the users who have experienced that triggering the Flytron to take a still picture can produce an error in which the unit triggers the "SELECT ISO Menu" rather than a simple shutter release. This turns out to be a significant problem if you are doing aerial photography and have carefully flown to altitude and maneuvered to take the shot -- because the only way to get out of the erroneous "ISO Menu" is to fly back to home, land, and manually press the shutter release button on the Sony A6000 camera.

This problem is known to Flytron, as the other user and I have both reported it. I hope they fix it as it wastes air time and can ruin a key moment when you are ready to take that "keeper" pic then your A6000 freezes bc the Flytron v2 sLED trigger has invoked a menu for changing ISO rather than simply telling the camera to take a picture. Triggering the IR again will *not* make the ISO menu go away.

I was ready to take a "golden hour" pic recently. I launched just before the sun came though the clouds. Positioned my Matrix perfectly. Threw the lever to trigger the Flytron v2 sLED and ...NO PICTURE! ...just that darn menu appearing saying "select your ISO." I had to fly back and land. When I took off after manually pressing the camera shutter button, the light was gone I was using special characters in my vocabulary. Argh!

November 2021 update: be sure to cover your Flytron IR trigger with non-conductive tape, the cover with a material to shield from interference. One user told me that they use black Cinefoil. I am testing silver aluminized HVAC tape (or "ShurTape" my fav) from Home Improvement Store. It seems to help!

keywords: How to RC remote IR infrared trigger shutter release Sony A6000 camera

I was soldering some battery connectors and my lighter was kaput. Then I spied my wife's heat gun that she used for embossing in family scrapbooks. I absconded with it and tested it on some heat shrink on 10awg wire. It worked like a charm.

I have commandeered her backup heat gun and it now resides in my shop for safekeeping

Wishing you happy landings,
Paul

Even think "Gosh, if I could have a male anti-spark XT-90 on my RC aircraft, pinch me! I could have the expensive connector on-board, and the simple XT-90's (without the resistor) on my existing hoard of 6s batteries! I could stop worrying about what the arcing spark is doing to my expensive electronics..."

So you go to Amazon, search and search... and there it is "Eureka!" you say to yourself -- the MALE anti-spark connector by Amass, in Venom packing, and sold by Atomik RC:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVS5T60

The Amazon ad reads: "Built in spark arrest technology helps to protect against current spikes and premature connector erosion that can lead to ESC failure. The XT90-S positive connector has a low current section to allow for a spark free initial connection."

[Snoopy dance!] as you place you order!

Like a kid, you look for packages and check your mailbox. The padded envelope is here! You open it and guess what? [rim shot ka boom ] It looks pretty ordinary. Where is the resistor and the low-voltage initial contact design THERE IS NONE ON THE MALE CONNECTOR! (despite the ad)

What they don't tell you is that if you were dreaming that the male connector on your RC aircraft could have the anti-spark technology so that your batteries could have the simple XT-90 female connectors -- you better keep on dreaming.

Bottom line is that the item is not as described. This MALE XT-90 does NOT have the anti-spark technology built...Continue Reading

After using a NEX-5 (actually NEX-5T) for aerial photography, I decided to upgrade to A6000. I shoot stills, not video--therefore the A6300 held no advantage for my application. My notes here are updated sometimes daily...

Here are some of my observations:
- love the auto-ISO available in manual mode! This was a much-missed capability.
-24mp compared to NEX 5 16mp. I need the resolution and I could immediately see more detail in my landscape pics, which are my passion.
- improved high ISO performance.
- my existing IR remote works after I turned on "remote," and turned off "auto-review," although I occasionally I have a problem with the ISO menu appearing on-screen. I have found that if I take a pic with the camera shutter button prior to IR, it clears this problem.
- hdmi output uses a hdmi micro connector rather than the NEX-5's hdmi mini. There is no room for an adapter on my rig for an adapter, therefore I need to change the right angle connector at the camera end, or get new ribbon cable.
- both cameras use same batteries (yay!)
Read more in this comprehensive review. Be sure to see the the test images at various ISO's:
http://www.dpreview.com/products/sony/slrs/sony_a6000

I am currently reviewing RAW files and am very pleased even while using autofocus with Sigma 19mm f/2.8, which is a lightweight lens with an angle of view equivalent to 28mm on full-frame camera like your old film camera (35mm).

For you video peeps, the newer A6300 has 4K video but suffers from overheating problems.
Want to read more about A6000 vs A6300? Here ya go: http://www.cameradebate.com/2016/sony-a6300-vs-a6000/
Wondering about A6300 vs. A6000 weight as payload:
404 g (0.89 lb / 14.25 oz)---vs--344 g (0.76 lb / 12.13 oz)
A6300 has more magnesium in the camera body and therefore is heavier

The venerable NEX-5R only weighs 276 g (0.61 lb / 9.74 oz)!

...and now for something completely different: Ansel Adams talks about making his most famous picture!:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/7556227...over-hernandez

I have Sony NEX-5T. Here are some lessons learned, as follows:

Camera settings:
1. I use 3:2 aspect ratio for stills for a key reason -- it uses the WHOLE sensor for maximum resolution!!! For video, use 16:9 .
2. Turn graphic display to ON.
3. For help leveling, turn on-screen level display ON. If your gimbal level is slightly off a quick fix is to shim one side of the camera base with tape. I use aluminum HVAC tape.
4. If you like histogram, it can be shown and viewable in your FPV display.
5. Turn digital zoom OFF.
6.. I set color to VIVID and shoot RAW. Vivid just looks good in monitor; it does NOT affect RAW files but it does affect jpegs and video "look."
7. For still photos: Use shutter speed of at least 1/500 sec.
For video, use 2x the frame rate. Example: for 30 frames per second video, use 1/60sec. shutter speed.

16-50mm Sony zoom kit lens:
1. If you are shooting JPEG, digital zoom of 1.5x may be activated by default even if you have digital zoom "off." Solution: select RAW file type and process in Photoshop.
2. Zoom can be activated remotely with modification. Secure wires carefully to avoid breakage. Stealdesk used a strip of 3M VHB and it worked great!

Batteries:
1. Sony batteries are heavier than generic like Wasabi Power. Standardize and use one battery model if you want your gimbal to stay balanced when you change batteries. I like Wasabi from Amazon. You could also add weight to lighter batteries to equalize the weight if you mix and match battery brands.


Infrared remote:
1. Pick the smaller infrared remote emitter. Mine has a surface mount IR diode. Attach to camera using double sided tape such as 3M VHB from eBay. Point the IR light directly into the remote shutter release located in the NEX camera -- it's on the front of the grip.
2. In camera menu, you must select "remote" to activate the IR shutter release.

More soon...

With the lower voltage, the power is less and gimbal is being more picky about balance. I know we adjusted the camera position. Here are the Allen screws to adjust the brackets for fine balance.

Disclaimer: proceed at your own peril as you may overwrite your existing files. Always backup your files first in a safe place.

IF YOU PUSH THE WRONG BUTTON OR SELECT THE WRONG OPTION, YOU WILL OVERWRITE YOUR EEPPROM AND/OR MODELS AND/OR DELETE YOUR MODEL(S)

Other than that, this is what Ive been told, and I have NEVER done it -- so I am not an expert whatsoever.

PROCEDURE:

If you have the older firmware in your Taranis, the menu option to Backup EEPROM may not be available. However there is still hope because you can backup your "Models."

I have more detail, and the two sources say the same procedure. All this is done on the Taranis, using the menus and buttons.

On the sides of the Taranis LCD screen are six display control buttons which are used to navigate information screens, menu settings, etc. The MENU and EXIT buttons are used to access or return from radio and model setup menus, while the PAGE button is used to switch between various menus and information screens. The other three buttons (ENT, +, - ) are for editing. ENT is an abbreviation for Enter.

The word "long" added to a command just means that you hold that button in for a longer time. For example" "long MENU" means press the MENU button and hold it in longer. "ENTER long" means press the ENTER button and hold it in longer.

THERE ARE TWO APPROACHES THAT VARY GREATLY TO THIS: ONE BACKS-UP THE EEPROM TO CARD, THE SECOND BACKS-UP THE MATRIX &...Continue Reading