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Posted by kallend | May 18, 2019 @ 01:02 PM | 4,311 Views
Make Your Own Inexpensive Centerburner

I have a dozen or so EDF models, most of which are of types that were/are equipped with afterburners. After buying some LED “centerburner” systems, I decided to see how hard it would be to make my own.

This project requires soldering skills, and access to a 3D printer and simple design software (such as the FREE https://www.tinkercad.com ), This article only describes the electronic part; fabricating the adapter to mount the LED unit to the EDF motor is not covered. Anyone familiar with 3D printer design software should have no difficulty in creating a suitable mount. Total cost of the electronic components for the system is less than $16. If you do NOT have these skills, I suggest you buy a ready made unit from one of the people who market them on rcgroups.com.

First, I found a suitable high output amber bulb that has it’s own inbuilt voltage regulator.

This is very bright, and runs on anything from 9 – 30 volts. It’s current consumption when full on is only 300mA, and the four brightest LEDs are behind a lens that directs their light along the bulb axis. With a little fiddling assisted by a razor saw I was able to remove the yellow plastic bulb base and expose the inbuilt regulator and its connections. These bulbs are $16 for two at Amazon.

To control it without making a custom controller I found a 10 Amp ESC for BRUSHED motors. $...Continue Reading
Posted by kallend | Feb 28, 2014 @ 08:08 PM | 30,018 Views
I have LED strips on my F550 with NAZA M. The attached spm file uses the DX9 sequencer to produce a strobe-like effect with the LEDs. The sequencer produces the "flash" effect and the mixer adds this to the selected output channel (AUX3 in my case). The mixer also adds in a value from one of the 3-way switches (I used switch D), so that the overall result is, depending on the switch position, that the LEDS are "off", "strobe", or "on".

The Rx AUX3 output drives the LEDs through an electronic on-off switch such as this http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ed_Switch.html

You may need to reverse the channel output depending on whether switch you use is active low or active high.

Edited to add: Whatever channel you choose to drive the lights needs to be assigned to INH in Channel Assign, so that the sequencer or switch can then be used to drive that channel using the MIXER function. I had the mixer set up to be controlled by Switch D. When Switch D is in the "2" position, it sends its own value (interpreted as "off") to the light control. In the "1" position it sends the sequencer strobe to the lights, and in the "0" position it sends its own value ("on") to the lights.