Posted by neonext FPV | Apr 15, 2017 @ 03:16 PM | 7,649 Views
Eachine TS5828L Micro 5.8G 600mW 40CH Mini FPV Transmitter with Digital Display

TS828L from Eachine is cheap but very nice product . You can get it for 10$ on
It has great range , very light only 6g and has super great price ( You can get it for 9,99$ on ) for a 600mw 40ch with a digital read out.
A great improvement on this model is 5V out. I have used several of these and they perform nice ..

  • Super great price
  • Very light
  • Dimension
  • Great range
  • New feature 5V output

It heats too much


Brand Name: Eachine
Item Name: FPV Transmitter
Channel: 40CH
Frequency: 5.6G-5.9G
Current: 190mA/12V
Temp.: -10-85℃
Video Bandwidth: 8M
Audio Bandwidth: 6.5M
Antenna: RP-SMA
Size: 38x18x8mm
Weight: 16g

Package Included:
1 x Transmitter
1 x Antenna
1 x Cable
1 x User Manual
Posted by aerosurfer | Apr 15, 2017 @ 12:11 PM | 5,542 Views
Get these low priced goggles @ Read more about them @

Eachine VR-007 Pro FPV Goggles (2 min 29 sec)

Posted by TheFlyinTekRC | Apr 15, 2017 @ 12:03 PM | 3,761 Views
Anki Overdrive - CENSORED Track Edition! (6 min 11 sec)

Tis better to FPV and crash than never to FPV at all!
Posted by rab | Apr 15, 2017 @ 11:39 AM | 3,341 Views
Spent the afternoon at PGRC. Flew SU26, TA183 and Radian. The BoT was not quite ready for first flight. With radian found the thermals were easy to catch on the day, easy half hour flights with minimal motor runs. The last two items on the BoT are acquiring rubber bands and measure amps for the three prop sizes.
Posted by readysetdrone | Apr 15, 2017 @ 10:34 AM | 4,142 Views
Want an easy way to start flying FPV?
Check out the Walkera Furious 215. It works with CleanFlight, but also works great right out of the box.
With 3 flight rates and a 4S battery for plenty of power!
Drone Review - Walkera Furious 215 (15 min 6 sec)

Posted by Goosher69 | Apr 15, 2017 @ 10:27 AM | 2,099 Views
Hey guys, so I got a wizard ARF in the mail a couple months ago and I still haven't been able to get it flying yet. This was my first drone, and I know I dove in way over my head, I had a sharp learning curve and finally have a better understanding of it all, but I'm at a stand still and I'm not sure what to do next.

Here's the run down of what's happening. Two on my motors on one side of my quad are spinning faster that the two on the other side. After doing some research and watching YouTube videos, it was making me think it was a esc issue, so I downloaded BLHeli, updated my esc with the newest software, re flashed all of them, then I connected back to betaflight, and calibrated all the motors together. I tested it with my remote on betaflight (under the motors tab and when I accelerated the throttle all of them spun up equally and at the same speed) so I thought I was all done. Screwed my props on, put on a battery. Being nervous, I figured I would hook it back up to betaflight and double check, when I did, it was having the same issue again. So I tried re flashing the esc and calibrating the motors again and now I can't get them to accelerate at the same rate again. I haven't worked on it for about 2 weeks bc I have been discouraged and I couldn't find anymore answers on Reddit, so I figured I would try posting here since I have got a lot of great info from RCgroups. If anyone could shed some light on my situation, or have any suggestions or tips, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Posted by GeO82 | Apr 15, 2017 @ 08:49 AM | 3,524 Views
A while back I made version 2 of the fatshark 18650 li-ion case, but apparently i didn't share it here yet.
Made this video on how to connect everything so you can use this for your fatshark goggles.

If you have a 3D printer and want to make one then you can find the stl file here at my thingiverse

Fatshark 18650 FPV battery Case with LED (14 min 18 sec)

Posted by QuadraticYT | Apr 15, 2017 @ 08:25 AM | 3,779 Views
So today marks one year of me in this amazing hobby, and I thought I'd give something back to everyone.
I have some FPV goggles to give away, as well as a KingKong Tiny 6 and some custom battery straps!

See here for the details:

KingKong Tiny6, FPV Goggles & More! - Birthday Giveaway (4 min 56 sec)

Posted by Fourtech | Apr 15, 2017 @ 07:22 AM | 4,424 Views
excerpt found on a forum

" A chapter of Trout Unlimited is proposing legislation limiting use of streams stocked with trout to fishing only. Boat traffic including canoes and kayaks will be prohibited along with any motorized vessel including radio control boats. Soft vessels such as rafts and tubes would be allowed, This move is to limit damage to breeding areas of insects that feed the trout."
Posted by old4570 | Apr 15, 2017 @ 03:31 AM | 2,762 Views

Link is to post :

Pictures and Video of the F2C Final
Posted by NakoahSlasher | Apr 14, 2017 @ 11:58 PM | 2,341 Views
As some may know im rebuilding my madgear rc SCT which was my first RC i got this truck in june 2015 and im now doing some hopups which i plan to buy a brushless kit new wheels new gears and stuff
The reason for this build i that either the ESC motor Or Reciever broke and now it wont run and wont connect to the transmitter so its most likely a motor and a reciever/Transmitter problem which ill fix when i get a brushless esc and a new reciever.

The worst thing about it is the motor where i have to hold a wheel on thats unbolted spin it hard and get it to move but even after that the wheels only spin for 30 seconds then it stops so thats a problem.

The purpose of this rebuild is to bring my first rc back to life and working again with more power.

All of the problems i have found so far are
1.Broken motor that takes a jumpstart to work
2.Broken reciever/ESC that cant pick up my controller which causes my transmitter to beep really fast before it stops because i cant figure out how to bind it
3.Bad gears. The plastic gears that came on it have never been taken out or replaced with better gears and the spur is missing a few teeth and the pinion is in pretty bad shape as i can see black plastic from the gears around it.
4.Most likely a broken transmitter because it beeps alot when i turn it on and the car on therefore i think its broken and ill probably get a new one if possible that works with my new esc and reciever hopefully i cn find one that will connect.
5.No...Continue Reading
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Apr 14, 2017 @ 11:57 PM | 3,771 Views
The closest you'll get to a vintage computer might be the FT2232. It's 1 of the older FTDI chips, but apparently still in production, widely available, & quite capable. It's a dual serial interface. The high end is the FT4xxx line which are quad serial interfaces.

The trick with the FT2232 is to not use the commercial drivers, but use libftdi. Most of the commercial drivers don't support it but libftdi does. Also, libmpsse provides limited abstraction of libftdi into SPI, I2C, & GPIO interfaces, but it doesn't allow simultaneous GPIO control & hardware protocols which the FT2232 does allow & it has many bugs. The trick is to refer to libmpsse to get the command structure for the hardware protocols, but directly call libftdi commands in your own program to control the GPIOs.

It's not clear how he figured out the command structure besides sniffing packets as they went through libusb. FTDI doesn't document it anywhere. Fortunately, it's not a very complicated protocol. The chip doesn't have any concept of GPIO, SPI, I2C modes the way libmpsse does. Libmpsse just uses mode settings to determine what commands to send, but the chip can accept any command in any mode.

The hardest part is figuring out the pins labeled GPIOH & GPIOL are ambiguous. What's really happening is all the pins labeled ADBUS are GPIOs written in a traditional 8 bit GPIO register & all the pins labeled ACBUS are written in another 8 bit register. They can be...Continue Reading
Posted by Birds | Apr 14, 2017 @ 11:48 PM | 3,476 Views
4.13.17.... I made it to the field for 4 more Sensei flights. I used the DX6 voice alerts with the timer. Nice feature. I didn't mention the wind on the previous 4 flights, those flights being the first with the DX6. The Sensei was out of trim and it was windy.!! 3 of the 4 flights today were spent getting the plane trimmed out. It needed mechanical trim and the 3 flights were pretty sketchy. Finally the 4th flight was smooth and enjoyable. It's a great plane but it's showing some hangar rash and the batteries don't seem to have the punch that they had a year ago. Something to keep an eye on. my next trip to the field I will bring along the Freewing Texan. That will get me in shape to maiden the LT-25 that I built over the winter. So, 8 flights on the Sensei to begin the 2017 flying season. Fly on....
Posted by Adidas4275 | Apr 14, 2017 @ 11:20 PM | 4,334 Views
Fsecondnday flying the hobbyzone Cub s with the accelerometers and safe system.

My son is 3 and it is awesome to use wireless buddy boxing and the SAFE system to let him fly.
Posted by Jwilliamgarlick | Apr 14, 2017 @ 10:33 PM | 2,267 Views
Hi, everyone. I am going to purchase the losi 8ight 4.0 and have a few questions.

1. servo recommendations for throttle and steering.

2. What is a coreless servo?

3. is the dynamite .28 rtr engine from horizon hobby a good choice?

4. How do I know what voltage my servo is getting.

5. recommendations for exhaust pipe.
Posted by Ketsalot | Apr 14, 2017 @ 08:32 PM | 2,115 Views
I have been trying to get to grips with a blade sr120 and I am not a pro but I have been flying mcx, and mcx2 for ages with no problems, but I can't even get the Sr to stay up ⬆ have tried all ways and it just goes everywhere else, now is this my awful skills or have I got a faulty product because I have had nothing but good reviews on this model and I am not convinced that it is????
Posted by Miami Mike | Apr 14, 2017 @ 08:26 PM | 11,791 Views
An auto-switching aileron-to-rudder mix for the Taranis
For OpenTX version 2.1.9

Aileron-to-rudder mix is useful but there are times when you want rudder control to be completely separated from aileron control. A common solution is to turn the mix on and off with a switch, but here I'll describe a setup that does the switching automatically. It works like this:
  1. When the aileron stick is moved away from center while the rudder stick is centered, aileron-to-rudder mix is active.
  2. If at any time the rudder stick is moved away from center, the mix is automatically cancelled and the rudder stick takes full control of the rudder. The changeover is slowed slightly for a smooth transition.
  3. When the rudder stick and aileron stick are both centered, the mix is reactivated.
In other words, the rudder is controlled by one stick or the other but never both, and the rudder stick has priority.

A simplified eepe file is attached that demonstrates the setup, and if you have glidsim.lua installed in your /SCRIPTS/TELEMETRY folder you'll be able to watch it work. Activate the glidsim screen with the PAGE button. In Companion simulator, use the [Hold X] function to set the aileron stick away from center, then move the rudder stick and watch what happens.

Note: Of course the attached eepe file is not meant to fly a real model. It's only for demonstration purposes.

In this example, GV1 is used to set the amount of aileron-to-rudder mix. The value should be between 0% and 100%. I have it set to...Continue Reading