R/C Blogs - RC Groups
Posted by Ethan Ater | Today @ 01:31 PM | 42 Views
I’ve always wanted to try a video with stick movements. Here is my first attempt! Enjoy

Oxy 2 RC Helicopter (1 min 55 sec)

Posted by blitzen | Today @ 11:50 AM | 124 Views
Last night I was out flying after dark again. I’m still amazed at the view through the goggles. The twilight appearance of everything is erie. The sky has been clear which helps the visibility. Of course where the man made ambient light is stronger, there is less noise in the image. My little 1S drone is quiet, unobtrusive and dimly lit. I’ve spotted some wildlife around neighborhood. A bat catching bugs under a street lamp and a skunk rummaging in the dark recesses. A few blocks (300m) down the avenue, the light from the bars and restaurants looks very bright. I’d like to checkout the “wildlife" down there in a future (late night) adventure. Tonight’s forecast is cloudy and I’m interested to see the effect of that.
Posted by RexGalore | Today @ 11:13 AM | 156 Views
Some pics of the Bear...
Posted by Utsav Kabra | Today @ 10:46 AM | 168 Views
The Three Are:-
Eachine E58
Eachine E52

Just one thing there cameras must be quite more efficient but still for beginners it's the best choice.
Posted by burkefj | Today @ 10:41 AM | 176 Views
One of my customers did this and it turned out pretty well.

Dynasoar Rocketry RC rocket glider night flight (0 min 34 sec)

The parts to do your own version and what I used are below:

Small gauge wire to make the jumpers to solder to the strips and connect + and – terminals from all the strips to each other. The strips can be connected from any set of pads since they are in parallel.

Red jst connector to fit the battery.



LED Strip Light SMD 3528 Flexible Tape 300led DC12V indoor outdoor lighting rope 5 meter length



Plan battery size, count your diides, current draw is 1 amp per 150 diodes(what I used), so with a 180mah battery using about 80 % of capacity to be safe would give 8 minutes, plenty long for pad wait, flight plus recovery.

I simply applied light strips to wing and fuse to make it easy to tell the difference between bottom and top and give light on the tail. I then used clear packing tape over the lights to protect them and hold them down.

On my stratodart I needed just a few grams of nose weight to rebalance. I left the 1s battery installed for receiver power and placed the small 3s battery for lights on the cg via a hatch. Battery weighs 19 grams so my starting weight was 11.6 oz without lights, with lights 12.2 oz, with 3s batt for night flight 12.9 oz. The stratodart has the most wing area and is able to carry the weight better.

For night flying, more is not necessarily better, you can blow out your night vision.

Here is my stratodart that I built using these parts.
Posted by burkefj | Today @ 10:28 AM | 196 Views
Here is an upscale of an old Estes kit. The original was a free flight glider and so to keep it stable on boost it swung the wing parallel to the fuse to move the CP rearward, and used a pop pod with extra fins that ejected at apogee to release the wing and put the glide CG back where it needed to be. I thought about doing one for a while, and did several simulations with wing folded and without.

With the wing folded and with a pop pod yielded about 75 more feet in altidude and about 1.5 ounce lighter glide weight, but at the cost of having to find the pod, I fly at a field that does not allow ejection of hot material from rocket gliders and the field is surrounded by tall crops.

With the wing folded but not using a pop pod, you also move the CP back, but then would need to put in some roll onto the elevons to counter assymetric drag, and add in the swing/release mechanism and you need to use a faster burning motor to be self stable, this yields about the same boost/glide weight, but with an optimized CG placement for less up trim required for glide and a bit more altitude.

With the wing fixed and steering on the way up yields a slightly reduced altitude but not as much as you think due to the slower burn motor/reduced speed/drag and a slightly shorter glide at the benefit of simplicity. That's the route I chose.

It's a 2.1" diameter, 28" wingspan, 11.4 ounce rtf model with a 10.2 ounce glide weight and about 13 ounce/sq foot wing loading with a .79sq foot wing, it doesn't glide that bad given the small wing area. Wing is 6mm depron reinforced with a .125 carbon spar, as is the horizontal stab and it uses just elevons for roll/pitch control.

2x upscale scissor wing transport RC Rocket glider flights (7 min 5 sec)

Posted by kopterheld | Today @ 10:15 AM | 197 Views
Now a have the Diatone 2018 GT-R90 version 2 with the new F4 8K, TBS on top.
The GT-R90 in version 2 is light and best 2 inch FPV racer drone. It is lighter as the new version GT-M205. Now with clear video and ESC's borad with current sensor on top. A buzzer is included, new proppeller 1940 from Gemfan. All is with betaflight 3.3.0 pre configured for 3S LiPo. For better performance I'm using the DALProp Cyclone Q2035C propeller with 2 inch size. The included buzzer have a board that i have cut up . Now fit the buzzer on top with the receiver antenna fixed with a cable ties. The TBS VTX get very good video quality with the included capacitor on rear. The VTX is very hot so please fly and remove the battery if you landed.

- lighter as GT-M205
- with buzzer
- filtered TBS VTX with Smart audio
- durable bottom frame
- ESC's board with current sensor
- F4 with 8K

- only 1940 propeller not 2 inch
- only a standard CCD camera, not a Runcam Micro Swift or Sparrow 2
- battery strap fit only on big battery, for small 3S too long
- the buzzer have to big board
- battery silicon pad is too thin, screws contacted the battery

Get the Diatone 2018 GT-R90 V2 with here:
10% Coupon: affiliate10%

Link to Banggood

Q2035C propeller:

Link to Banggood

...Continue Reading
Posted by kopterheld | Today @ 09:41 AM | 203 Views
Now i have the Realacc RX5808 PRO PLUS OSD 5.8G 48CH FPV Receiver with the Achilles Open Source firmware for my Fatshark Dominator HD3 Goggles. A very good diverity module with best firmware, that I see. The Achilles firmware is ease to use and now with OSD on the goggles.
The RX5808 have the Achilles firmware version 1.8. Thedisplay is bigger as the display from the Pro58 and with integrated OSD on the goggles display's. My version is without the cover, but I have a 3D printer.

Get the RX5808 PRO PLUS OSD with cover here:

Link to Banggood

...Continue Reading
Posted by RC Roundtable | Today @ 08:50 AM | 261 Views

Episode 58.1: "Out and About" is now live!

In this bonus episode, we talk about:
-Fitz's Boat Fun Fest event report
-Brockport NY Fun Fly
-Flight Fest 2018
-Jetero High Wing Ho Down
-Boy Scout Camp

You can visit our website at RCRoundtable.com to listen over the web or download an MP3 of the show. Or, you can subscribe to RC Roundtable on iTunes.
We would love to read your comments and ideas. Please drop us a line here, on twitter, or via email: contact@rcroundtable.com.

You can visit our website at RCRoundtable.com to listen over the web or download an MP3 of the show. Or, you can subscribe to RC Roundtable on iTunes.

We would love to read your comments and ideas. Please drop us a line here, our facebook page, or email: contact@rcroundtable.com.
Posted by cuavlindy | Today @ 02:11 AM | 531 Views
CUAV from Guangzhou, China, has newly developed a new Pix codenamed V5. It will start a global public test recently. The following are known materials:

TB2q5b6q21TBuNjy0FjXXajyXXa_!!12580599TB2q5b6q21TB uNjy0FjXXajyXXa_!!12580599.png750x756 325 KB
Quick Summary
•Main FMU Processor: STM32F765◦32 Bit Arm® Cortex®-M7, 216MHz, 2MB memory, 512KB RAM

•IO Processor: STM32F100◦32 Bit Arm® Cortex®-M3, 24MHz, 8KB SRAM

•On-board sensors:
◦Accel/Gyro: ICM-20689
◦Accel/Gyro: BMI055
◦Magnetometer: IST8310
◦Barometer: MS5611

◦8-14 PWM outputs (6 from IO, 8 from FMU)
◦3 dedicated PWM/Capture inputs on FMU
◦Dedicated R/C input for CPPM
◦Dedicated R/C input for Spektrum / DSM and S.Bus with analog / PWM RSSI input
◦Dedicated S.Bus servo output
◦5 general purpose serial ports
◦4 I2C ports
◦4 SPI buses
◦Up to 2 CANBuses for dual CAN with serial ESC
◦Analog inputs for voltage / current of 2 batteries

•Power System:◦Power: 4.3~5.4V
◦USB Input: 4.75~5.25V
◦Servo Rail Input: 0~36V

•Weight and Dimensions:◦Weight: 90g
◦Dimensions: 44x84x12mm

•Other Characteristics:◦Operating temperature: -20 ~ 80°c

It is known to use the F765 processor and many other upgrade updates. But I don’t know if the current Ardupilot firmware supports it or not. I’m going to use a traditional helicopter to test this flight control. I need to ask whether AC 3.6rc1 FW supports this.


Any more details , just feel free to contact us

Best Wishes !

lindy liang
Guangzhou CUAV Technology Co,.LTD
Address: N203B , 3 North Gate,Technology Park software building , City Ring Road South 2 ,Nansha District , Guangzhou City,Guangdong. China
E-mail :lindy@cuav.net
Posted by cuavlindy | Today @ 01:43 AM | 553 Views
CUAV Pixhack v5 has already performed a preliminary test flight on the Alzrc 420 three-bladed version of my 420-level RC helicopter. It performs very well in all aspects. For example, the calibration process, vibration control, and flight stability of each sensor, the actual flight effect is still Quite well, thanks to the developers of ArduPilot, @tridge、@rmackay9、@ChrisOlson. they have efficiently released the Dev version firmware with great usability.
Posted by M. Qaisar Ali | Today @ 01:22 AM | 614 Views
I am quite new to this forum and hobby as well..
Kindly suggest me which setup should I buy?.
Flysky fs i6x or Flysky fs th9x??
Thank you
Posted by M. Qaisar Ali | Today @ 01:08 AM | 588 Views
I am quite new to this forum and hobby as well..
Kindly suggest me which setup should I buy?.
Flysky fs i6x or Flysky fs th9x??
Thank you
Posted by Bola | Today @ 12:53 AM | 601 Views
Key features:

Support Pit Mode

25mW, 200mW, 400mW and 600mW power switchable

One button frequency and power setup

OSD configuration using Smart audio

7-24V input with 5V output

MMCX+UFL connector


Posted by old4570 | Yesterday @ 09:21 PM | 762 Views
Posted by flyenrw | Yesterday @ 06:33 PM | 880 Views
A few steps in between finish work lowering the side doors of the cowl and re-cutting the air outlets and carburetor filter opening. After reworking the shape and finishing of the glass re-work I lowered the engine side cowl on both sides, by about an inch . Using strip styrene I created a dam to build up with bondo fill, which was sanded flush to the styrene and feather into the sides to give the appearance of a single door over-lapping metal cowl door. I will make some cowl latches to give the appearance that the doors are held closed with these latches. The changes can be seen in the original cowl molding verses the changes made to my cowl.
My next step is to make the carburetor hood and inside filter , air outlet openings and finish , fill prime the cowl .
Posted by kydawg1 | Yesterday @ 05:17 PM | 936 Views