Posted by scruffy1 | Today @ 10:21 PM | 1 Views
i recently bought the described product from banggood - you can see the product here and make me immeasurably richer using the affiliate link provided - immeasurably as in very small reward, but hey! i'll take what i can get

product specs from my measurements are :
  • motor core 16.61mm long, 21.10 overall to end of shaft
  • 7mm core diameter with 1.0mm shaft; prop hub has correct bore for the supplied shaft
  • the propeller is markedly asymmetrical (see the pics) and there are neither mounting lugs nor screws, despite the illustrated product showing both
  • overall weight 4.1gms for components, propeller is 1.2gm but will be less with required trimming and balancing, no doubt

the mounting "hole" on the (presumably) nylon hub is 2x2mm suggesting this hub is for probably a component for one of the carbon stick fuselage models; the "front" hole forward of the 2x2 fitting is 1.35mm diameter, and might lend itself to mounting in a 1.5mm carbon rod with a little "encouragement" - see pics

the tiny motor turns over nicely unloaded on a 3.7v 1s lipo

however, due to not being what i saw in the product pics, the proposed use in either a sopwith pup or minimum rc spacewalker is not going to be possible without substantial modification

all in all not a bad product, but the buying experience was somewhat spoiled by inaccurate product details - but for ~ $4 delivered i can't get too disappointed even if i can't use it as planned
Posted by rclad | Today @ 10:05 PM | 10 Views
Last November I purchased an 87" 3DHS Extra 300 SHP, my first giant scale plane, with the goal of using it to compete in IMAC contests this year. It will be powered by an Xpwr 60cc motor and two 6s 6000mAh 35C Glacier batteries.

Never content to build an ARF, or kit, without customizing it to make field setup or flying easier, I went about drawing plans for modifying the Extra. Among the many items on my to-do list was a battery tray that would simplify the steps needed to insert and connect battery packs to the ESC. The plan was to make this a winter project that would be ready for spring flying, practice and the first IMAC contest in the North Central region in May of this year, 2017. Plenty of time, right? Well, events never seem to go the way you plan.

I do CAD work for a living (AutoCAD for civil engineering), so drafting plans for the custom parts I needed was not a problem. But creating a prototype of something that has never been done before requires a considerable amount of time designing, testing, building, testing and re-designing until you have something that comes close to your original concept. With two kids, a house and a full-time job to manage, I have relatively little time to work on my RC hobby. Apparently, I spent hours of that precious time just staring at my plane as I mulled over the next step in the process. Creative products take time!

In the beginning of this project the idea struck me that a battery tray could do more than...Continue Reading
Posted by Ultra3DP | Today @ 09:00 PM | 59 Views
Here are some of my prints in my current favorite TPU colors... Pink and Translucent Purple! I will be printing these colors upon special request, so let me know if there is something you would like made in them!
Posted by Fpvapes420 | Today @ 07:32 PM | 107 Views
I can't figure out how to connect my fc to my pc. Every time I connect I get a green flashing light and beeping sound. When I try you flash the firmware on betaflight the bootloader fails even when I short the boot pins. I should be getting a solid blue light when it's ready to be flashed, but have yet to see a blue light at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Posted by DuPageJoe | Today @ 07:00 PM | 120 Views
I had a satisfying day at the Naperville Yard Soccer barn flying my EzFly and my Duet today. Indoor season is winding down, and my flying skills have gotten better, partly due to the forgiving nature of the EPP sheet I used to build my EzFly. I had put landing gear on the EzFly to protect the servos, but found the axles a bit weak, so I just left the axle and stub wing and took off the wheels. Landings on the artificial turf were smooth enough that way. I described some of my mods on Motorhead's thread.

After my glide tests, I decided to make a box for the battery on the wing, as shown in the picture, This puts the CG near the slot, almost an inch back of where it started, and really made a difference in how my EzFly performs. I also put on a 7 X3.5 prop on the 1300 kV CD-ROM motor, and I get a good steady climb from a hand launch without using much elevator. Battery is a 3S 450 mAh type. Once in the air, I can throttle back some to keep away from the ceiling beams. Turns are easy, but I've got to watch out for holding rudder too long. Once it banks, It's best to use less rudder.

Hope I can carry some of the experience I've gotten in the Yard to the Propmasters' field this summer.
Posted by Appelmoesman | Today @ 06:56 PM | 142 Views
Silvervise APP introduction (4 min 20 sec)

Cheapest 130MM true X frame you can find 3mm thick CF with PDB
4 BL heli-S or Dshot esc's
Diatone 5V regulator
Cheap 1407 or 1306 3500-4000KV motors (racerstar or EMAX)
Eachine AIO TX03 or TX02 with 3D printed mount use some of the packing foam from the TX02 or TX03 to reinforce the mount in the back
1MM thick Silicone tubing (banggood)
H8S h8 mini blue/green H101 floureon
Eachine Falcon 120 Spare Part 4 Blad 3030 propellor (less than 2$) (they are well balanced and fly awesomely smooth and provide equal thrust in reverse for the 3D curious)
Arduino nano to flash ESC's

All parts can be purchased at banggood

Step one: Get your battery strap under your PDB and attach motors, esc's and PDB.
Step two: get Arduino nano and flash esc's with latest BL heli version (Dshot)
Step three: Flash the H101 with Dshot Driver, APP telemetry and the right settings for your controller (TX) (this should be DEVO or TARANIS or anything with fullsize sticks that has BAYANG protocol)

Step four: Install secondary bottom side antenna for underneath the carbon fiber, secure with zip tie. Solder this 2.4ghz antenna with a long lead and route it under one arm. Solder Signal to signal and ground to the tiny ground pad on the underside of the FC. Use superglue to secure it in place

Step five: Install power filtering. You need a 221mH coil to filter the noise from the esc's like this: PDB-COIL-5VBEC-5V to H101 and TX02.

Step 6 mount the...Continue Reading
Posted by NewbieHK | Today @ 06:14 PM | 148 Views
I got about 50 bucks and just got my first 4s lipo battery now im looking for a good balance charger for my money anybody got any suggestions?
Posted by sammillmier | Today @ 05:55 PM | 152 Views
Trying to get a RC drift car, does anyone know anything about them.....
Posted by vic_man_fpv | Today @ 05:14 PM | 184 Views
A new video test of drone props. In this video we are going to test the new Gemfan 5152. Excellent racing props, durable. Perfect for racing: powerfull and very soft.

Gemfan 5152 RAW test / review - vicmanfpv (3 min 35 sec)

I hope you like it, please share and subscribe!!!
vic_man_fpv youtube channel
Posted by Ssayer | Today @ 03:03 PM | 389 Views
First, I got this from Banggood for testing and review. Thank you very much!

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Unlike other things that I've reviewed, this review is a little tricky because there are three different ways to review this quad and I would like to give each way it's due. The three ways that I will review it are:

1. Stock quad (what you get in the box is what you've got) plus cellphone (the Android App is great!).
2. Stock quad plus cellphone plus FPV Monitor (or goggles).
3. Stock quad plus cellphone plus Standard Transmitter (that's what I already own). It would be the same for the advanced transmitter. I'll add also using an FPV Monitor at the end of this particular segment.
3a. add FPV Monitor.

Ok, here we go (short version):

1. Stock quad. If you're flying low and close to stuff, the only way to fly it is LOS. Period. Flying it LOS, you will see that the controls don't have any discernible lag, so... have fun. FPV though, I see the video seesaw between practically no lag all the way up to around 6 seconds lag, and if you're flying it strictly looking at your cellphone, you're cruising for a bruising. Once you get above the trees, who cares about the lag, you have time to react.
Why fly it with just your cellphone? To me, the biggest reason is way points on a map. It flies them and it does it well. That said, it also has Orbit, Follow me, Headless (which I didn't test as I will never...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Today @ 02:50 PM | 369 Views
I have finished the lower starboard cockpit wall. By having both lower sides completed, I have now fit the floor boards intended. nothing will be glued into place until all the cockpit pieces are finished and I am sure everything works out as planned.
I have read here in this forum, the belief is, the landing gear mount is week.
It sure looks it!
When I cut out all of the upper framing, I had reservations of lost strength, but as I examined where the forces to the frame are applied, to me it looked like it was all from the bottom, where the landing gear attaches, so if anything, it should be stronger.
I have used a 3/32 birch plywood for the floor boards, and I feel that when all is sandwiched together with the lower fuselage framing glued to the floor boards, there will be an additional strength added by this lamination of framing and the landing gear attachment should turn out stronger.
Now that the floor boards are readied, the front seat was been trimmed to a height suitable, and temporarily arranged for mounting.
The fuselage frame side dimensions are not quite spot on, so the seat still appears higher than it should but if you take into consideration the lower door does not fall flush to the fuselage, if the hinge line were moved up, the proportions would be more appropriate, to have the seat flush with the entry frame but this is not a Top Gun model.
I am just trying to tweek it here and there as the challenge of adding a little scale.
The cockpit is really too small to add all the appropriate flooring detail as the proper distances are not achievable with the battery needed directly in front, so I feel once the control sticks are in place, the seats, side panels and dash should leave enough first impression.
I'll continue towards finishing the side panels and rear seat attachment.
I will have a false wall to the rear cockpit to accommodate the running of wires, out of sight.
Posted by jbourke | Today @ 01:32 PM | 496 Views
I'm in St Augustine, Fl this week flying my new Extra 330SC.

Today we had a Tornado warning which (obviously) made it a bit hard to practice so I thought I'd share some pictures.

The SC is a single-seat version of the plane I had been flying. It's lighter with better performance all around. This year as a member of the US Unlimited Aerobatic Team I will be flying at the World Aerobatic Championships in one of these amazing planes. All but one of our team members will be flying the 330SC.

I'll finish up here in Florida either tomorrow or Friday then I'm booked for an airshow in Memphis, TN. If you are in the area please do stop by and say hi.

New Product / Posted by / Today @ 01:30 PM / 429 Views / 0 Comments / Reply
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Posted by Rickey Thomas | Today @ 01:12 PM | 427 Views
Working on my hangar today. Got over 100 planes built. Getting cramped in here just counted kits 86 nib kits arfez collectors etc my question to the site is what would be a better way to display these birds. .?
Posted by Flyboy222 | Today @ 12:04 PM | 476 Views
Recently seeing this on Youtube, the Spark was quite a presentation from the company that brought you Phantom, Inspire and Mavic DJI. It was 30 minutes long and glossed over everything that this drone can do. It is tiny for sure weighing smaller then a soda can. I appreciate that you can use hand gestures. However, I would consider the remote for longer flying anyway. (Was wondering how the Spark would be able to pick up the hand gestures from a distance.) Glad to say that the Spark drone is finally here. It ships mid June. Who is first?
Posted by Mad_angler1 | Today @ 11:05 AM | 628 Views
The DJI Spark

You can Pre Order the DJI Spark from DJI now fort $499

Today DJI have announced their latest new drone call the Spark

This new smaller DJI quad is smaller and lighter than the Mavic Pro being just 170mm diagonal, it comes with a 1080P 12MP camera, Obstacle Sensing and a whole host of new intelligent flight features.

The Craft

Available in a 5 colours this new quad is smaller than anything DJI have release before in an RTF platform, its size is 143 x 143x 55mm, weighs 300g and has a maximum speed of 31mph in Sport Mode and the max Ascent/descent at 3m/s.

Its fitted with the usual DJI GPS system receiving both GPS and GLONASS, Vision Positioning System and a 3D Obstacle Sensing System

The Camera & Gimbal

...Continue Reading
Posted by | Today @ 10:03 AM | 532 Views
Hey Guys,

I just want to say for everybody, that new DJI Product release show starts within 30 minutes. Maybe DJI Spark is here?

It has 99% chance for that, let's see!

Link to DJI Live Stream from NYC!

Have fun and watch the Live together!

Posted by FlashBack123 | Today @ 09:27 AM | 586 Views
I found that all frames on market have some disadvantages for me, some are ugly, some too thin, others don't have enough room to place all in way I want, some were too stretched and so on..
And I decided to make own frame! 5" stretched X frame, arms are 5mm thick and 12mm width, horizontal plates and side walls are 1.5mm, frame is extremely rigid when fully assembled and I am going to test it soon! After tests they will be available to buy Weight 93g with steel screws (or 89 with titanium), diagonal 228mm, height 30mm. Camera tilt up to 90 degrees!

What I can recommend for this frame :
2206-2307 motors, 4 in 1 30A esc and F4 or F7 omnibus, runcam or foxeer camera. Also there is room on tail to mount tail light (I used Matek one, it fits well)

Right now I used RCX 2206-2400kv, cicadas 30A escs, Matek HUBOSD-X and F4 flip 32 FC, just moved mine old drone . Fly tests will be soon!...Continue Reading
Posted by Swoopdown | Today @ 08:05 AM | 609 Views
Explains why I have not done much flying of late.
Posted by roashru | Today @ 05:58 AM | 670 Views
the bugs 3 manual on how to calibrate the remote controller are somewhat right my remote controller throttle was doing off-low-high so i set out to find and clarify the procedure and succeeded.

pair the remote and copter
turn off the transmitter
with left stick centered hold red button turn on transmitter. light on controller will flash fast
next press and hold forward/backward trim button in down position. light on controller blinks slow (calibrate)
rotate both sticks as far they can go about 3 times center left stick when done
next press and hold forward/backward trim button in down position. light on controller will flash fast
push left stick down let the remote and copter pair back.

after calibration the quadcopter should be able to hover and fly slow much better.