Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes
**EPP Peregrine, FFF-Eagle, Dragons and other Bird Planes**
**EPP Peregrine, FFF-Eagle, Dragons and other Bird Planes**
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Here are two identical planes with different paint and ailerons. Great lookers. Fantastic flyers and great potential for an artist to paint a real work of art.
These are the 8 wing parts in the kit. The tip and wing feathers are flat 1.9 lb EPP foam the tapered wing airfoils are cut from 1.3 lb EPP foam.
I like low temperature hot glue for gluing the parts together. Shoe Goo also works.
Press the parts firmly till cool.
The tip feathers hang over the trailing edge to help them blend in with the wing.
Apply glue to the wing feathers.
Align them with the top of the wing and at 0 degrees ith the airfoil. The table angle will make them slightly elevated so they need to be aligned before the glue cools.
The wings look great. The aileron is cut on a line parallel and 1.5" in front of the trailing edge of the large foam core in the wing as shown.
Secure the straight edge with pins to make sure it doesn't slip during the cut. You can mark the wing and leave 4.5" in the center of the wing or do a full cut as I will explain in the next few pictures which seems to be more accurate.
Use a long blade box knife and hold it vertical and make the cut in several passes of the blade cutting a little more every pass. You will see this cut so be careful not to mis-cut.
This shows the ailerons cut off of the wing cores.
This is a measurement of 4.5" to make a mark to cut the ailerons the right length.
This is the bottom of the line.
Use a box knife and cut the aileron on the line but not the wing.
This is cutting the other aileron.
Glue the small piece back on.
This shows the ailerons behind the wing cores.
The ailerons are hinged on the bottom so the hinge gap needs to be on the top. I use a box knife and a straight edge on the top aligned with the wood platform on the bottom to give a 1/4" cut.
Use a sawing motion to get a clean cut. CAUTION!!! Make sure you cut the bevel on the top of the wing and cut a right and left aileron.
You can see the gap for the aileron to move.
This shows how much up there is in the wing with the hinge cut as explained.
Both sides are done and ready to hinge.
The elevator will hinge directly to the back of the wing. Measure 7.5" from the front of the middle core of the wing.
Mmark a 90 degree angle and put the two wing halves together to check that it looks right.
Use a box knife and cut the TE of the center of the wing.
You can see how the elevator will fit on the back of the wing. (This tail is not yet assembled.)
Different angle to show the aileron and tail angles. This part of the kit is already done in the deluxe kit.
Glue hinges work so well I use them on almost everything. You can CA glue in some additional string hinges for added strength if you want. Look at the tail assembly for more instruction on string hinges.
Put a small bead of glue down the bottom of the hinge line and spread with a stick or razor blade. You need to spread the glue quickly while it is still hot.
If the glue hinge looks ugly smooth it lightly with an iron but make sure the iron is not so hot it melts the foam.
Glue the wing halves together.
Press the wing halves together. The foam will insulate the glue and will take a couple of minutes to cool and stick.
The spar is made from 1mm x 6mm flat carbon and comes in two pieces. Put the included heat shrink tubing over a 4" overlap of the carbon spars and shrink with lighter.
If you want to add strength wrap the overlap in dental floss or thread before putting the heat shrink over the carbon. The heat shrink may be any color.
Measure back 2" from the forward angles of the wing for the spar location.
Using a box knife cut a slit deep enough for the flat carbon spar.
Press the spar into the slit. I did remove a little sliver of foam at the heat shrink joint for a better fit.
The spar should be totally under the surface of the foam. i put hot glue around the heat shrink joint of the wing.
I used CA glue to glue in the spar. It bonds well on the EPP and doesn't eat the EPP foam.
Notice the servo hole I cut/melted into the wing. It starts 10" from the center line. Be careful not to cut all the way through. I use a servo on each aileron.
The electric wires will be pressed into a 1/4" deep shallow slit that runs between the servos. Don't cut so deep you weaken the spar.
You can see how the wires are hidden in the foam. I cut a small hole to hide the extension wire plug.
Use an Exacto knife to cut a slit for the wire-tie control horn. This is one of the best horn methods I have found on EPP.
The control horn is made out of the heavy 160 lb test wire tie. It has a different sized hole at each end for different attachment methods.
CA glue the horn in place. After it is dry use hot glue and make a thin 3/4" in diameter circle of glue both top and bottom around the horn for strength.
Glue the servo in only on the top so you can get it out if it needs to be replaced. To remove a servo I use a hot air gun to soften the glue.
This is a Z bender and it makes an easy connection on one end to hook to the servo. This bend can also be done with regular pliers.
The other end is a clevis that attaches to the horn. I like to stand the servos up not lay them on their side. It looks better and is stronger. I paint right over the servo to help hide it.
I build enough planes that I have jigs for different radio parts. I cut my receiver slot with a jig and a soldering iron. A box knife would also work.
This is how the cut looks before I remove the center of the foam. I leave enough space underneath to hide extra wires. Don't cut through the wing.
This shows the elevator servo behind the receiver and the spar. Notice the short antenna on the 6100e Spektrum receiver.
These are the tail parts including the elevator halves, rudder and angle brace. The tail is easier to build and hinge if built flat, but it looks better with the "inverted Y" configuration.
Glue the elevator halves together. Use multi-temp hot glue with the glue gun on the low temp setting.
Align the halves and allow to cool.
This is the angle brace. It is needed so the elevator can be hinged with a straight leading edge described later.
Glue it in place on the bottom of the elevator.
On the top of the elevator you will need to cut the foam to make it blend in with the hinge line on the back of the wing.
This is what the top of the elevator should look like after shaping. There is also a bevel on the flat front of the tail to allow it to move with a glue hinge on the bottom of the wing.
Trim the rudder so it fits over the angle in the elevator.
Glue the rudder in place. Make sure you keep the weight of the elevator/rudder at a minimum or you will have to add weight to the nose of the plane.
Simple and effective. I like the one piece design.
I trim and shape the brace with the box knife to blend it in.
Side view showing the rudder fit on the elevator.
Pin the elevator in place while you make a hot glue hinge along the hinge line.
Take 2x 3" pieces of nylon string and cut shallow slits in the bottom of the wing that overlap the hinge joint. If the slit is too deep the hinge won't work.
Press the string into the slit. I use white string on the plane the yellow is so you can see it in the pictures. You can add string reinforcement to the aileron hinges too if you like.
Use CA glue and glue the string into the slit and let dry. This adds a lot of strength and is recommended where the hinge has so much stress on it.
The tail should be able to move up and down freely. This shows the angle of the bevel on the elevator/rudder unit.
This shows the elevator in the full up position.
I like to lay out the control rod to get it aligned with the control horn. Using an Exacto knife cut a slit all the way through the elevator for the horn.
CA glue the horn in place then when dry hot glue the top and bottom of the control horn with a 3/4" in diameter glue reinforced area.
Hot glue the top of the horn coming up through the elevator.
You can see the control rod to the horn from the elevator servo, the string hinge reinforcements, the receiver, the flat carbon spar and the plugs from the servo extensions.
Here is a wider view also showing the aileron servos, servo control rods and horns and the tail position. Also included is the fuselage and an eyeball.
Angled view to show tip to tip of the bottom of the wing and tail.
Angled view to show tip to tip of the top of the wing and tail.
This is a solid 1.9 lb EPP body for the Peregrine. It is at least 10x stronger than build up. It can be carved to any shape you want and doesn't have to be square.
Draw a pattern to fit your radio and motor and cut out space for the servo arm and control rod for the elevator, the battery/ESC box and the motor mount.
The flat bottom on the fuse allows you to set the motor angle. The flat bottom is at 0 degrees to the center line of the wing.
I like this style of motor mount with a BW 1300 or BP21 motor. I set the motor a little low so the bottom tips of the beak don't get broken off in landing.
I started with a soldering gun then drilled the rest of the way though with a drill bit.
I use a pencil in the motor mount to make sure the motor mount is straight. I will cut the motor mount to length before hot gluing it in place.
The pencil helps me see the angle of the mount. I also set the angle of the motor down slightly at about 1-2 degrees down thrust.
Motor mount cut to length and glued in.
Make sure there is enough space for the battery, ESC and ESC wires in the battery box before painting.
After painting on this prototype I put industrial strength Velcro on the wing and the fuselage. It is strong enough it is hard to get apart.
This shows a different angle with the ESC wire linking the fuse to the radio in the wing.
It is a good idea to put tape where the Velcro will be placed before painting so the Velcro can be glued straight to the EPP foam. It will stick better. It can peel the paint.
Here are to of the EPP birds ready to fly.
These pictures are from later modifications. Notice the wood motor mount.
This mount is going to be taped with bidirectional reinforced tape for strength.
This tape is available at Lowes or on line.
Cover all surfaces and make a good fit.
Heat an iron till it warms the tape but not hot enough to melt the surface of the tape. The EPP can take more heat than the tape.
The surface should be tight and smooth. Notice the beak has been decreased in size to look more like a peregrine.
The motor mount is secured.
When you press on the beak.
It returns to it's previous shape.
Scott rounded his fuselage to make it look better than mine.
He use a razor blade and sand paper to get the body shape.
Tail view of the rounded fuselage.
He also ironed the tape to get it to stick better.
3M77 is sprayed on the top of the tape to help paint to stick.
We are using Grippers for wing bolts. these are two options available at the hardware store.
This is the gripper in the fuse and the bolt that goes through the wing. A sample gripper is also shown. It is hot glued in place.
This is the wing bolt position prior to screwing down the wing. This has proven to be a strong and simple way to attach a wing.
Soarbird I - undercambered Bluecor wing & Bluecor tail group, EPP body. Good for light air thermaling, but high undercamber does not penetrate wind very well.
Soarbird II on the slope, approaching; another undercambered wing, EPP body.
Soarbirds I & II
Soarbird III ; hotwire-cut EPP wing employed for better high wind & slope flying performance. Solid black EPP body being used. (Not completed and flown yet)
Early photo of Soarbird IV, a bluecor PP Kline-Fogelman variant wing. Also uses EPP body. Will be modified for full flying tail for better trim & flight performance authority.
I'll eventually condense the plans to just half the bird, but here is all the parts laid out so you can see how it all fits together.
balsa servo rails, Burger king coffee stirrer servo wire tubes
battery hatch propped open
looking forward at thin ply cutout for wing LE tongue
wing TE platform with wing screw set in it
LE tongue gorrila glued on underside of wing, white plastic wing screw sticking up
Eyeballed the tip angle
Wing spar being Rhino glued on rt half, sencon half already glued I peeled the whole thing after I glued all the layers on
Kind of looks like a F4 Phantom tail.
We hd to add the piece at the front for the control horn and the hinge.
The new tail is made of EPP.
The old tail design.
The light does not do justice to the color. The tan color on the wing adds realism. Notice the tail and ailerons.
Better view of the ailerons and new tail. This is after the wing was repaired.
I had to cut the foam back a little to keep the BP21 from rubbing but this motor will really make her climb.
The tail is laid in place for shape. This wing is designed to be a Q-Plane with a RET and a vertical rudder.
I love the angles and shape. It really looks good on the bench. Hope it flies!!!
Another angle of the new wing.
This is the new flat wing aileron design. Notice the hinge line. The hinge is on the bottom of the wing because it is flatter and hinges have to be in line.
There is a little dihedral but all of the angles and the sagging aileron/flaps fool the eye.
Another view from another angle. The tail will be an "inverted Y" think????
My Original Dirty Birdy
As it is now
The DANCER's 48" span KFm3 variant wing, 9% thick airfoil, with heat-formed L.E. & upswept wing tips- good roll, stable efficient glide
These are the only two paints used. It took less than 30 minutes to paint the plane. I was surprised how light it was with the paint.
Ready to fly at 14.6 oz
I like the coloration without too much work. It will also be easy to repair.
Lighter bottom coloration
The "Y" tail hides in the paint. Yup, you are looking at the rudder. It blends in well.
Notice the Velcro holding the wing on. The slot is the extension plug to get the servos out to the wing tips. the servo wire is pressed into s slit in the foam.
This is the servo aileron connection. I did set this up with lots of expo and dual rates for the test flying..
The bottom of the elevator and ailerons look good too.
Notice the Velcro. the eye makes it come to life. The flat bottom of the body helps get the right angle on the motor.
The beak is still not perfect but it looks still good.
Motor mount with a BP21 and a 7x6 prop.
Same plane different ailerons and paint. Both are amazingly realistic.
Bottom view showing the diffeerence in the ailerons and servo set up.
Unpainted wing for comparison.
The paint hides the glue and the texture of the EPP.
Invisible vert stab
Look at how the rudder blends in with the elevator. It is even more of an optical illusion with some distance.
The paint helps to fool the eye of where the rudder actually is.
Different angles make the rudder more obvious but most of time you are looking and the bottom or side of the plane.
This photo is to show the Gull version tail. My new Gull will have the same paint on the tail as the Peregrine. The magic paint comes in gray too!!!!
This is the tail that we are now using. The angles are an optical illusion from the side.
The eye likes to pick out square corners. This tail flew as well but is now retired because the new design looks so much better.
The bottom view hides the rudder all together .
The black would be the KF
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