Aircraft - Sailplanes
Multi Task F3X
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The model components as they come out of the box. Pushrods are installed as is the tow hook.
This is a close look at the fin to horizontal stab joint showing a bit of fin to fill in the gap that haunts the Shadow and Xperience Pro.
We received two sets of joiners, but the solid ones are lighter! 44 grams for the pair, versus 46 grams for the hollow ones. We suspect the "solid" ones are foam core with carbon over the outside.
A look at the rudder and fin arrangement.
Wing tips have less kick-up than Shadow and Xperience Pro. Check out that paint scheme! Painted in the mold!
Inside the canopy area. It is not real roomy so plan your radio install carefully. Note the installed ballast tube.
This is the wing center section showing the fairing to the fuselage.
3D top view Xplorer / Pike Perfect
Xplorer on the wing and clean. If you enlarge the photo, you might note the black stuff on the top of the right wing. These are the signatures of Nickolai and Nikolay....the two people who make the "N" in NAN Models.
Xplorer has the flaps down and dirty, with left roll being input to the ailerons. She is flying with 60% flaps in this shot, because the servo gears had been damaged earlier.
On the winch launch, you can see the plane rotated quite fast and is stable.
No, this is not two guys holding up the Xplorer by the wingtips while I shot the photo...it is a long lens looking down on the Xplorer. (I don't cheat on my photos!)
Another launch shot and here you can see the plane has lost very little angle from the hand. Rotation is immediate.
This is thop view as you would see the nose when the canopy in first removed. The remote is hard to miss inside the canopy, and the AR7000 is under the switch. Note the back end of the lithim ion battery at the front of the canopy opening.
Here is my messy attempt to use flox and CA for the canopy rods. The remote rx is nestled inside. Someday I have to go in there and remove that flakey white stuff
Yes, under there is an AR7000 receiver. The servo connectors are tucked under the LE of the servo tray. Excess wire is routed alongside the servos and back to the Rx. The antennas both have additional heat shrink applied to the outside to prevent being c
Xplorer for Bob
Xplorer prior to first flight
Nice fairing between wing and Fuselage
Large rudder with stab ahead of rudder, allowing full moment of rudder
Drill small hole above ballast tube
Canopy held down by carbon rod as usual
Use a spare plug in to stop loosing harness in wing
The yellow and red is the D-box version and the orange and blue is the full carbon version.
Servo tray and ballast support installed, fuse is 2.4 ready. The carbon hatch cover will be replaced with a glass cover.
Top part goes in the wing and the bottom in the fuse. He left the plug housings off the fuse harness to make the install easier.
Here's a shot of the large storage unit on the other side.
HiLoft storage unit with wings on each side and fuses in the middle.
Xplorer #2 on the workbench upstairs.
This is where I do all my building.
These are older packs and not the new Eneloop packs but the profile is the same.
I always try to use a template when cutting. It is offset to allow full length elevator servo horn.
Here's after 20 minutes of Dremeling and filing.
The 3421 fits nice and tight, but look how loose that 761 will be. Notice I cut off excess servo lead and install new plugs.
I cut up some carbon and use them as washers/spacers. I've use this method for a while and it works great. Yeah, I am cheap on screws only using 3 :).
I run Futaba, and that is their R608 with the case off. I will use heat shrink and some padding. Battery is 2S-A123 (M1)
You like this skeg? This is a must for American TD. I got it from Ben Clerx, bclerx (at) aol (dot) com
2 years ago
1 year ago
Last week, yes, that is me on my hands and knees.
$10 at Michaels craft store!
I 3m 77 tack glue the template on. Also glue on the black plastic "dot".
And round and round we go. Look closely and you will see that if I bend the paper overhang down, it becomes my drill guide. I will try and drill a hold at 45 degree angle, the hole will be as close to the bottom skin as possible so the wiper rests as clos
3 minutes later and voila. Forgot to mention support underside of wing, I use a piece of soft foam.
Notice I marked the LE orientation so the airfoil will match when taped back. Will that really matter? Who knows.
The cutter stores nicely when finished.
I used .60mm carbon plate for the pockets. Notice how top plate is further back from hing line for clearance. With some resin and cabosil packed in there it should be stronger than orig.
Its a nice tight fit onto the test piece of wiper.
This is a 60mmx80mm piece. I needed to cut that in 1/2 lengthwise to make it easier to slip inside wing. sparyed light 77 to wax paper and stick on carbon. Note 45 bias.
My camera batts died. Need to charge them up, flash did not fire. I will get better pics on the other side. Hard to take pics as you get resin on the gloves.
These are the best that i have found to cut carbon.
I finsihed this one in Nov.
I just finished this one tonight.
Pre-maiden shot 1
Pre-maiden shot 2
Boy these Cali winters are rough
Lightly scuff area.
I spray a light coat of 3M 77 onto wax paper, then stick the carbon down, then cut. Then that piece sits between 2 bigger pieces of wax paper.
Roll out most of the resin.
Use mixing stick to pat carbon down. Note wax paper is still on.
Make sure you wear protection when working with resin.
These are the Gregore RDS rods and yokes. The pins are about 7.6mm center/center
These are made with pins 10mm center/center. Works very well, but just darn ugly... so...
I hack this out in about 30 minutes working as fast as I could.
Notice the flat spot on the output shaft.
This is solid, with some locktite don't think it will work loose, but one can always pot the ends with JB weld also.
The pins are 2.05mm, the closest bit I had was 2.00mm so it's a little tight, but I think this system will work very very well once I drill with correct bit (#46), of course drill deeper too.
I used my template and eyeball the angle. It came out very nice.
Just the way it should.
This is how servo would sit.
Nice fit all around on the .135 tubing, but if you need to remove this for any reason, it would be hard as the bent part of the rod will not slide back into the wing.
I'll have to bore the hole out so the .165 tubing will clear and stick out.
RDS for Xplorer Ailerons Model (1).pdf
Epoxy resin thickened with cabosil and loaded into syringe. Remove needle to load. Chopped fiberglass for added strength. Looks illegal, needle, white powder etc.
Xplorer left Yardbird right... must be the desert air.
I tried to lighten up the adapter part. :)
Here's the assembly before using JB weld.
This is how the ends sit when ail is in neutral.
Wing panel propped up so epoxy can dry on flat spot.
Oh yeah, here's the fuse. Big HD JR switch that has been cut down. Will be gooped in once cg is established.
Brass gear DS168 aileron servos
Sean Porter Servo Covers
Orbit-M-Saver Ultra Battery Monitor
pp ballast Model (1).pdf
Proposed Xplorer Ballast Rod End Design
AVA Tow Hook
Laser Etched Numbers
Notice I clear the area of the molding of the skin more than the balsa rib.
Need to grind these areas down if you want the throw
Extra epoxy, or JB weld here
Rudder horn Model (1).pdf
Ready for range check at Clovis International...
All smiles after first maiden...
One happy Xplorer pilot!
Cams double stick, and strapping taped on.
Adds about 5 total oz.
This was all that was damaged from a midair that took both planes down in a truely amazing flat spin!
antenna exits the fuse 20 cm after the tow hook attached with some clear scotch tape all the way to the back.
When we reach the rudder go back in.
and a the top exit and let it stick out for about 20 cm or something.
Ready to rare back and heave it...
I will use all 761 on this X. You can see that the horns for rud and ele are shorter to take advantage of resolution. I had to dialed down throws using end points on last one. Ele horn is stock short side of cross and rud is long side cut down
This rear modification itself yielded 2g of weight savings vs coupler/clevis horn :-), Black rubber CA. 30 degrees of bind free throw each side.
Pike Perfect Wing Joiner Detail Model (1).pdf
I ground the clevis down some so the cutout of the clevis opening in the center panel would be minimal.
This is servo arm in neutral flap position, it is canted forward about 10mm I believe it is the longer arm of the cross and won't need to use "Sporter" covers.
Using slightly modified template from previous. I cut the opening 1/8" larger radius so it's easier to install servo.
New pockets prepped ready for servos.
1/2" aluminum for yokes. 15mm long, hack sawed and ends trued on a micro lathe.
Simple jig to drill holes for "Gregore" rods. Center hole for 3mm servo screw and 2 outside holes are 2.18mm
Jig is just some scrap wood with 1/2" hole to hold aluminum yoke.
4 yokes drilled weighs 18g.
Some final touch ups and we have some nice looking yokes. These are for the ailerons. I didn't have time for the flap yokes. Flap yokes will be beefier, so won't be much milling on those. I think I need a bigger lathe and a milling machine :-)
Aileron Yokes and Rods... a perfect fit. :-). Still need to drill and tap for a 2mmx3mm setscrew.
Reminds me of a Vulcan mini gun.
My Winning Xplorer
bling bling :-)
her sister on final
The 2 sisters getting some tan. After a succesfull maiden quality of the pics isn't that good ... only had my cell phone with me. Sorry for that.
RDS for Xplorer Flaps Model (1).pdf
Degree wheel 1 Model (1).pdf
The drawing part shows how f/g cloth is applied to the ail subspar with the fibers in a 45 degree fashion. Go from end to about 16" out is what Dave was referring to. Of course do not get resin on the outside of the wipers.
Here's the rod/wiper assembly. I use solder for the wiper to inner tube and will use rubberized CA for inner-tube to outer tube.
This set weighs in at 16g. A little on heavy side. I may cut down some of the inner tube to save some weight.
The pocket spacer is beechwood. As you can see, gives .100", while wipers are .104"
Pocket plates are 1mm carbon for bottom and .6mm for top. For ail, I use .6mm for top and bottom.
Assembled and just needs some sanding before insertion into flaps.
Rudder horn Model (1).pdf
Joiner box made of carbon tow
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