Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes
Glow to Electric Conversions
Top Flite P47 - SCALE ELECTRIC BUILD
Top Flite P47 - SCALE ELECTRIC BUILD
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LIST OF RETRACT PARTS USED
Standard build so far!
I love it when the sheeting goes on! But sad at the same time as all your hard work gets covered up :P
dramatic angle oooooo!
moving along nicely
this is where i made my first mistake! because i am recessing hinges as per the full scale plane - i SHOULD have glued hinge mount points inside the elevator before I sheeted it! Whoops! Oh well moving on.
Rough shaping coming along - can't believe how much shavings this produces. good fun
bit of filler to smooth everything out...
smooth and ready for the curve to be cut - hinge locations also marked out.
It's too pretty to cut! what if I muff it up!?
lines drawn and ready
halfway through the cut! just had to pause and take a shot!
cut complete! am pretty happy with the accuracy of this method!
now pop off the elevator from its tacked placement
draw up the hinge recesses
hack and slash. I have some recesses! now I have to work out hinge position to make sure I get a clean rotation, and how to best make the hinge covers that fit into these gaps!
elevator goes up...
...elevator goes down... ye ha!
nice pile of parts
framing it up
ooooo I like this stage.
time to make the rudder skins
and to sheet the other side of the stab
here are those hinge blocks I mentioned. this is shaped to fit inside the rudder, and a lot of depth will be cut away when the recess is made, leaving not much weight. There is another for the bottom hinge
sheeting done - for the time being, I am leaving the shaping of the rudder base block until I am fitting it to the fuselage, so I can get the correct scale bulge right.
This is Eagleston's aircraft. I won't be doing his but Ken Dahlberg's - ie minus the eagle and different kill markings.
Here is the conclusive photo showing the black upper fuselage on Dahlberg's P47. He is posing with his armourers (again Australian spelling - we like our 'u's and 's's :) ) in this shot
another black topped P47 from the same squadron, this one does not have the skull marking on the cowl yet.
and another vote for a black upper fuselage!
I would bet this is black too - the tone matches that of the stripe on the upper surface of the elevator exactly - which is known to be faded flat black
Rudder cut free. If you look closely you can see the small wedge I had to fit right under the top balsa block in order to get the curve starting down low enough
Hinge locations marked up
Trusty little saw to begin the cuts. I did this before rounding the leading edge to make it easier for myself
&@%#&%*!!! Never forget this is balsa wood! That is the hole my thumb made during test fitting of the rudder
Trim the edge...
...glue in some ledges...
...and fit a new piece of balsa
Bog it up and after sanding should be as good as new... but I'll know it is there :(
Used some small balsa to shape up the hinge covers. The trailing edge of these is rounded off to ensure rotation inside the rudder. Also you can see the wedge I added to make up the curve better here
Hinge pin in place. Looks very rough but I will be prettying it all up later
This is an example of the recessing I had to do in order for the extended hinge covers to be able to swing inside the rudder when turning
Here is the finished vertical stab and hinge covers
This one show the amount of rounding off that was required for clearance
An here is the finished product. I am pretty happy although I know there were probably 100 better ways to do this!
The amount of travel I currently have. This is right on the maximum throw suggested in the manual. I can always tweak this later if I need to
This shows the rudder swinging all the way towards the camera, and how the hinge covers disappear into the recess
This shows the rudder at full deflection away from the camera. I could have done the bottom hinge covers better - the gap is too big, but its done now...
Setting up the first formers
All the formers laid out and glued to the main ribs
I forgot to take some shots in the sequence here! Did not show the windex and pinning method. Here the fuse is partially sheeted with the tail placed in position for good effect
the fit of the skins
tail finally epoxied in place. no going back!
I added doublers to this section of the top stringer so as to provide a strong mount for the vertical fin I will be adding aft of the cockpit.
top sheeting complete and filler added to joins. Have yet to sand back. Also added the extra sheeting around the cockpit area. Next step is to fit the bubble
the end result of the top sheeting an the join with the tail. I mucked up the curve on the front of the tail area a bit and there is a small gap :( Will have to fill, but I was pretty happy.
The fuse on its new robart stand for the first time. Glad I invested in one of these!
All inside joints were reinforced with white wood glue (dries clear)
The result of using Windex on my finger to smooth the epoxy join between the fuse and the tail
The filler on the top tail fillet roughed in. I used masking tape as per the manual to stop too much mess, and then with a wet finger smoothed the shape
another dramatic angle!
Tape removed and edges lightly feathered with a wet finger again
sanded smooth with old 400 paper wrapped around a scalpel handle. had to go freehand on the trickier curves at the front. Only needed the lightest sand
Rear view. Still need to clean up the back a touch
The bottom fillet just before sanding
Here's the bubble canopy fresh from the packet
Small imperfections on one side of the bubble - quite noticeable - like grit was on the mould. It looks a lot worse and more noticeable in person
Trimmed and sitting in place - I just realised none of these shots show the shaped cockpit edge yet. Oh well
slowly taking shape
Starting off.... hmm I am making a wrong decision? Lots of work ahead
First guage 'glass' on. Wow look at that airspeed! Feels like we are sitting still
A few more done... The white glue you can see on the smaller gauge will dry completely clear and also shrink to practically nothing
Bit of good ol' floor scuffing
This is how far I got... time for a break!
Half this panel done - the holes will be filled and painted on the buttons. What do people think of the white "text" (big inverted commas there!) next to the buttons? Does it look too bad? Would like to know your thoughts...
wire for toggle switches
Detail of the air cylinder mount - it is removable to allow access to the cylinder if required after sheeting
View from the rear
The new tail wheel mount. Tried to keep it as minimal as possible
tail wheel extended
In retracted position, showing how mount fits in with stringers. Wheel mechanism is held on with blind nuts
Thought I would add a couple of contextual shots to show the location of the cylinder in relation to the wheel
With Canopy/cockpit removed
With the guns firing. The guns do 'fire' in sequence, the camera just doesn't catch it.
A view of the wire attachment at the tail wheel
Here is the cable running from the tail wheel to the servo. Red circles indicate where it hits on the formers
The wire moved to rough position to give you the idea. Red line indicates where I want the wire to sit, and the circle is where I would put a hole and locate the eyelet
A view down the fuselage, showing the placement of the two proposed guide holes. I will probably use a longer servo arm. Wires would be on outer holes and the rudder would be on the next hole in on the arm.
Simple solution to enable free travel for my pull-pull cables - drilled holes and used supplied hard tubing for guides
another angle. Surprisingly there is very little friction and I doubt the servo will have any trouble at all steering the wheel and moving the rudder
Original idea for steering servo - was not happy about the asymmetrical force on the cables. However the servo arms hit if brought more to the centre
Tank in place temporarily to check fit and clearance
When the tailwheel is retracted the cables slacken off so the wheel won't steer
Hmmm what if I raise the rudder/tailwheel servo?
Success! easy clearance and no fouling of cables and other control rods
Another view. The left rod is the rudder and the right is the elevator (yes i built them backwards for those who know this plane)
Small servo arm did not leave enough room for the rudder control rod to be attached and have enough throw. Went for a bigger arm, after all no clearance issues now
In order for the cable clevis to fit on the larger arm, I had to file them thinner on the ends
Now to the air valve. The standard ply mount supplied in the kit is attached
I forgot to take a few photos, but here is the servo tray extended, the micro servo mounted to operate the valve, and the valve mount recessed into the ply base for strength
Made a ply cradle to keep the valve sitting true
All mounted up at the right height for the servo linkage
Lots of space in the servo tray to rout the air lines now to keep things tidy
Here it is popped into place, a very snug tight fit. After this shot was taken I realised I had to rotate the valve so the needles would not hit the top of the wing when installed. Easy solution and will show later
Slapped on some silicone to stick the tank in.
And there you go. The tank shipped with a small dent as you can see here. Hopefully it will just pop out.
Drilled a hole through the rear mount and secured the tank with a cable tie just to be sure it would not move!
Starting to string it up.
Here is the position of my new former... The tailwheel doors will run between the two formers here...
I ran the stringers down to the rear of the fuse as in the instructions, so I can still mount a balsa block for the rearmost of the fuse.
Whoops the former is not quite square, well too late now! The topmost stringer will be trimmed
Here you can see the parts that will be cut free after its all sheeted and my glass doors are made. I have recessed the rails in two places to mount hinges. not sure if you can see that here clearly...
Starting to look like an airplane!
The completed modified rear of the plane showing the new rails for the doors.
A closer view.
Now just have to add the solid balsa block behind here and get carving.
I precut former 9 so it is easy to remove later on when the sheeting is in place.
Rear view. Pretty happy with how it turned out!
Windex used to soften the skin sheet. Pin in place and dry to shape.
Be a little careful if you are going to try this, as some shrinkage does occur.
Half of the bottom sheeted. I carefully marked the location of the gear doors with pen marks (and recording the measurements)
Last time I will see the tailwheel for a while! Fingers crossed it will all work out...
Last sheet in place and drying to shape
Done. Whoops forgot to take shots of the carving of the rear balsa block.
The rear of the fuse where it meets the tail is not done, but I was finishing up for the day so I photographed it anyway
Fuse right side up for the first time
Airlines still untrimmed.
Whack on the rudder for a photo op
Its on the way... white paint is to help shape the complex curves in the rear of the fuse during sanding. It will highlight low spots to fill when sanding.
A bit more filler than I would have liked, but after a lot of sanding, refilling, sanding I have a nice transitional shape I am happy with
I have the taper pretty good now. Have to shave a lot of the rear block as it was kicking back up at the end
Control rods temporarily in place to enable me to fix up the horn mount blocks on the control surfaces
Intercooler door hole cut
Control horn mounting block roughly in place on the rudder
before filing and sanding. You can see the extra balsa sheet I added to give the bottom of the rudder more thickness
The elevator horn and block in position. It is pretty close to the edge of the elevator, but this way there is no pressure on the rod causing more friction than necessary
All sanded to shape
Here is another shot of the bottom of the rudder. I did not carve the bottom balsa block until after I had glued on the sheet to make the rudder thicker at the bottom, allowing me to blend it in nicely
This is a shot of the rudder from the rear showing the curve of where the thick meets the thin so to speak. I looked at a fair few photos of the original and hope I have it close...
Firewall in place. Now I am committed to my 'removable cowl panels' idea for battery changes. The batteries will be mounted vertically either side of the motor mount
Wing mount bolts in place. Don't worry my airlines will NOT be routed like this! They will be nice and neat but a job for later
A shot of the rudder servo set up showing how I will be using the one servo to steer the tailwheel (with the pull-pull cables) and move the rudder with the wire. The elevator servo sits nicely underneath
Marking the position of the elevator joiner wire
I actually plan to use this as another hinge point as per the real plane. I will fabricate aluminum mounts for the wire like this, and notch the rudder
Notch marked out and cut with scalpel
Corners filed round
A screw in the scrap material makes it easy to shape and place into the opening
Like this. I am using this to strengthen the area
Here is the finished recess
All fitted up, fits well. I really need to make the faring over the gaps between the control surfaces though... A job for later
Here is what the recess looks like in place. I think I will go ahead and try to make the scale elevator join - hell I have the hole there now!
Couldn't resist sitting the bubble on top for a bit of inspiration
This is the point I started to make zoom zoom noises...
Fin roughed out and in place
Here it is shaped - a really good tight fit
Got to cut out this former to fit the cockpit
A fresh plan ready to build upon, always a nice stage to be at
A few parts ready to go
Here are the modified supports for the gear mount sent to me by fellow modeler John. Thanks a million!
All the supports ready to be put into position. I think some juggling will be neccessary
All standard so far. Some ribs needed the centres glued in to give the structure strength when the new spars are cut in to the ribs
OK ready to start modifying the wing structure by adding new spars
I made this little template to help me cut the new spar recesses correctly on the ribs. Very handy and easy to do
Recessed the rear so it can sit flush on the rib bottom...
... like this
Then you trace around the lower part...
... and presto, a perfectly placed marking of where to cut
First new spar in place. I will be doing these on both the top and the bottom. This spar represents the rear edge of the wheel well
It's placed 50mm back from the main spar
Front spar in place
From memory it is 70mm in front of the main spar
This will be the wheel well area. The main spar will be removed in this red area, hence the two extra spars...
Spar and rib ground down to about 2mm to allow for wheel clearance and to check fit before removing entirely
Retract in place, a nice fit, but still more jiggling to do
I checked clearance as I adjusted by laying some wood over the area and running it over the curve of the adjacent ribs. actually ended up with a little more clearance than this
Can't wait until this happens for real!
Here is the final angle of the gear mount
And from the other side. I will be remaking the rib above this once it is all glued in
A bit of aileron construction
And the flaps, all per the instructions
A shot of the area still left to remove from this rib. This new spar will form the rear of the wheel well
Shaping up the rib to a more presentable format
Testing out a chromate green colour I mixed up. I will coat the wood in a watered down coat of filler first, then sand to remove grain. I did this with the smaller pieces either side of the strut and it worked well
Getting closer, I think the other side will go a lot faster!
Here is the styrene sheeting with the ribs I found that I thought might work well for the upper well.
Easy and strong at 1mm thick. This would be laminated to the inner wing skin to add strength and looks
Ah... bugger the density of ridges is actually about double what it should be :(
Not sure if I will use it at all now. It would mean a lot of work to sand out ever second ridge!
Here is a real P47 wheel well. You can see the ridges clearly in these shots
I would like to add the detail of the circular pressings in the well wall here, but am still thinking about how to do it well, so we'll see
Progress on the wells
A retract-eye's view
The ribs that would form the inside of the wheel wells were filled with watered down filler, then sanded smooth
Here are a couple of finished ones
A shot of the reinforcement under the retract mounts
And another, the leading rail gets the beefiest reinforcement
Final placement of the retract
Wing together for the first time! Only temporarily though...
Oh dear... going to have to build some extensions on either side of my work-table. Talk about a tight fit!
The extra dihedral brace pictured in the centre. Made from scrap ply. Once epoxied in there won't be any weakness where the die cut parts are. (I did glue them in of course)
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