Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes
The Ritewing Build Thread
The Ritewing Build Thread
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Slackers Unite II
The 36 lightning layout, for Microdan 2505-2800kv, CC35, standard servos, 3s 2100.
36 Lightning closeup.
IYF44 layout, 3sTP2100, cc35, Microdan speed, DS821 servos, Motor as far back as possible. I did not cut the motor in at all. CG= 7.5
Demon Lite, basic layout for 4s5000,28-47-1.5, 80-100amp esc, standard servos. AUW 45-50oz, CG7.25-7.5
TL50 average layout, Mega 16-15-4, 45-60amp ESC, 4s 4000-5000(2s x2), standard size servos. AUW from 45-53oz, CG is 8" from the nose.
Closeup of TL50, Note there is room to move the batts another 1/4" forward but Only experienced builder should try that. 1/2"-3/4" separates the bays, thicker is stronger but not always attainable.
25" Mini Demon
New production of Cores!
Everything out of the box! Oops I left the elevons out of the Pic.
Motor plate and mount!
Slice the beds off using sharp snap blade
Bed ready for use.
Nice and level!
Mark the cores as shown, the next pic shows why.
You now have an easily visible center line to take measurements from.
This is how the wing should rest when your not working on it.
Trusty Flexy strait edge!
Square off the root.
Electronics bay and Batt Bay drawn up on one half.
Here I have the coro shelf marked out in green.
Here the servo is measured 4" from the root and 5.5 from the tip of the nose!
Make a mark in the center of the control arm.
Take the measurment and make a mark at the TE and draw a line. This line is your Gold N rod mark.
The rod will exit at 3" and be cut at 2" from the TE.
This is how the mount looks stock.
Snap all the extras off unless you are using an extra long motor. For most builds the extras will be removed. Sand off the rough spots.
Here is the motor mount traced out and the prop slot cut out drawn on. Note that the motor mount plate will be over the CF spar.
Note the extended electronics bay. Also note the velcro tabs to secure the lid
Here is an alternative way to make the tabs. Just leave a rectangle of foam in each corner of the Batt bay.
Squeeze the Gorilla Glue into the spar hole.
Once the cores are glued together, place some weights on the TE. This helps the wing keep its shape while the glue cures.
Some glue will bleed through the foam.
Any excess glue can be shaved off and then sanded.
This is the great spar cutting tool. A simple 10-32 socket cap screw in a 30 watt iron. The screw was grinded to the proper size.
Make a mark between 3-5" from the nose.
Make a mark about 2-3" from the LE at the tip. and make a line from point to point.
Start at the tip and work towards the center.
Slow and steady!
Keep on truckin'
Spars dry fit.
Below or level with the surface.
Add a small amount of Gorilla Glue and some water. Mix it up then snap in the spars.
I place a flat bar and weights on the spar to keep the glue from getting out of hand but this is not required. You do want to weigh down the TE while the glue cures.
End result. Because of the plates there is minimal glue foam to deal with.
The green is where the router will cut 2mm deep. This ths the shelf the bay lid will sit on.
This is basically a customized hot wire. I suggest first timers use a smaller shape to cut. Its easier to manage when its smaller. The size of a servo is good.
The foam is melting!!!!
Finishe cutting. So I thought!
TaSaJaRa recommended this step.
Velcro tabs added. I cut where the velcro goes 4mm deep.
Close up of tab.
Bay cut to shape.
Hinge. Only cut though half the flute!
I hold a bend in the lid to make it form to the shape of the wing Just hold in this position for a bit and the bend will stay.
I extended the electronics bay. I could of fit everything as it was but I decided to make more room and try a new door method.
Poke a hole through the electronics bay into the batt bay. Big enough to poke your connectors through.
Her is the finished bays. Note the small doors rather then one large one. This will keep more strength in the center of the wing.
Make a mark from the electronics bay to the tip avoiding the spar.
Dremel out a groove 1/8" wide 1/8 deep all the way down.
This groove will house the antenna tube. Do not glue this in till the Golden rods are finished
I use the router to cut the servo hole, get it as deep as you can without getting to thin on the bottom.
Make sure the fit is good!
Now I take my strait edge and prop up the back end with a scrap of Gold N rod on the 2" mark. Then cut just like ya did the spars.
Since the back end is shimmed, the cutter will exit the core at the 3" mark.
Finished with the soldering tool.
This is how the linkage is assembled.
Make sure you center your servo. Do a dry fit and hook it to the Rx. Make sure the horn has plenty of room and no binding occurs.
Heat up a screwdriver.
Poke it through the foam into the electronics bay.
Fish the servo lead through the foam with a pair of needle nose or hemostats. At this point Glue the Servo in place with hot glue.
Now prop up the back of the gold n rod with a scrap. and glue in place using hot glue.
Cut and Glue a scrap of foam to the top of the servo.
With a sharp blade cut off the excess foam. Sand to level if needed.
All finished with the servos.
Put a brand new blade in your knife!
I make a cut along the trailing edge of the electronics bay which is located rite above the internal spar. I only cut where the motor plate is drawn on the wing. I cut all the way down till the blade hits the spar.
I then make a cut on each side of the motor mount plate half way throgh. So basically the tip of the blade is on the CF spar and the cut stops where its shown in the pics.
Then I cut from the center of the TE forward making sure the blade is on top of the CF spar. You can cut a little at a time, or if your comfortable just take the block of foam out in one swipe. Remove the block of foam and make sure the CF spar is showing
Now the motor plate will be hot glued flat inside this cutout." Paul has posted a valid concern, Hot Glue may break down from vibrations over time and release, Goop is a sure bet in this step, just goop the plate, the foam block and lightly clamp.
From a scrap of foam, cut a block and fit it over the mount plate like shown and hot glue it to the mount plate and surounding foam. Take the blade like you did on the servos and shave the foam level with the top of the wing. Sanding may be required to
Use the soldering gun to remove the foam where the motor goes.
This is how it should look.
Take the soldering gun and bevel the foam around the mount. Also clear away foam from the mounting holes as shown in the pic
Heres the bottom beveled. It does'nt have to be beveled as large as mine is but I like the way it looks and I'd think it would allow more airflow around the motor to cool it.
Outline your bays!!!! Do not forget this step!! When the glass is on you can see where to cut in order to open the bays!
Cut the excess spar that overhangs the tip with dremel or saw. Sand it level if needed.
Here is how I cut my bevel for the elevons. I trun the wing top down, and then place a strait edge undeneath, parrallel with the TE. Then a strait edge on top 3/8" back from the TE.
With a brand new exact or razor cut along both strait edges as shown in the pic.
Another angle. Cut this bevel all the way down.
When finished you trailing edge should look like this.
Here is the bottom after applying spackel, after it dries it will be sanded smooth. Only apply the spackle where needed, there is no reason to cover the whole wing.
I like to add a chamfer to the gold N rod, I think it looks cooler, but thats my opinion. It looks fine without it. so Whatever floats your boat.
Use a piece of coro to mask the linkage from the glue. Spray glue the surounding area of the linkage.
Put a layer of tape or two over the linkage. This keeps any glue out and adds some firmness to the area.
You'll have to cut, melt, burn, etc. a slot for the gold n rods to sit when the wing is top down in the bed.
Please use 3M90 in well ventilated area!!!!
Start with one half and overlap the TE 3".
Open nozzle to high and spray the glass down only where it covers the foam. Avoid spraying the overhung piece. Hold nozzle 2-4" from the surface.
Work the glue smooth into the glass with putty knife. Then repeat this step on the other half.
Layup the next row, working towards the nose. Keep overlap to a minimum, 1/4"- none is fine.
All the way to the nose is covered in glass.
Trim the glass 2" back from the leading edge while the glue is still fresh.
Trim both sides 2" back from the LE
Make sure the wing is in its bed correctly, use some release film/wax paper and place some weights across the trailing edge. I use some alum. flat bar to distribute the weight. Leave this for a minimum of three hours.
After a few hours trim the glass around the motor mount, be sure to wrap around the mount to give the mount more strength. Also trim/relief around the corners and glue it flat as you go.
Now spray the bevel of the TE and start to work the glass around to the top.
Work the TE cap over to the top.
Make a relief slit along the gold n rod. Now you can spray this piece down with glue and work it with the putty knife. Repeat on the other half.
Work your way up to the nose just like you did on the bottom. Again cut 2" back from the leading edge while the glue is fresh. Set it in the bed with weifgts for a few hours
When the glue is cured this is how you will cap the leading edge. Start from one side glue it in place and then work it around to the other side
Be sure to cut and wrap the extra glass around the motor mount.
All done on top!
Bottom all finished!
I put an extra layer over the batt bay on top.
Nice smooth contoured nose!
Start by flipping the elevon top down on the top of the wing. Only use #m storage tape or similiar. Do not use blenderm or any other stretchy tape.
Top view. The Control linkage may seem to be in the way but is easy to work around.
Place tape as shown so that it wraps all the way to the bottom of the wing. This is basically just to hold it in place for the next step.
Now fold the elevon down and tape as shown. Be sure there is little to no gap between the wing and elevon.
I tape the whole elevon, Be sure to press firmly against the traing edge. The tape wraps around to the bottom.
Then tape across the whole elevon. There should be no unwanted movement on the elevon. This gives you a bullit proof hinge.
Finished wing with outrunner motor mount.
Notice how I criss crossed the center then doubled up from the batt bay forward.
Same thing on top, doubled from the batt bay forward.
Hard to see but an example of criss cross.
The silver is the repaired area.
One ounce of plywood hot glued in
Coro skid pad held in with straping tape. The black is the repaired area.
Got the nose pretty flat
New Longer winglets to make it track better at lower speeds.
Reminds me of Redbull! It gives you wings!
Heres how I did the slice, really made it stiff.
I think if you moved them outbord a little it would stiffen up the tips a little more.
Three shades of blue mono for some semi symetrical hand carved camo.It turned out trick.
Cotrasting bottom done in black barron coverite lite then painted.
Bay lid carved out.
The Client requested that a 3300 3s polyRC must fit. So I used 3/32 ply for the floor. It'll be atight fit.
Here is the motor wire exit. Stolen from CatahulaDave I think.
I used 1x3mm flat carbon for wingtip spars and the main spar is your standard Ritewing spar.
Bay lids in place.
Close up of spars.
Before the fix you'll notice some major bow and warpage.
Make a mark 1/4-1/2" back from the leading edge and cut a slit no deeper then 1/8". Or deep enough to sink the 1x3mm carbo flat stock. go ahead and slide the stock in place BUT DO NOT GLUE YET!
WITH THE WING IN ITS BED! Set a yardstick, flat stock, whatever across the leading edge and weigh it down. Let it sit at least 10 min so it can relax a little.
Leave the weights while you glue! Now apply some thin CA from a dropper into the slot setting the carbon to the epp, use some kicker to set it off. Let it sit till the CA is cured then remove the weights.
After the fix! Notice its almost perfectly strait!
113 degres out today, 18 ft trailer loaded w epp
The back of the truck is full too.Had to stop to ship off joes twin sicksty.
Solid heavy monster 7s,just the way I like it.
bottom of the 7s
integrated custom hood scoop built out of coro before glassing.
bottom 7s single
bottom twin shell
What it looked like before
The new covering
The new bottom
Doesn't look too bad
Little lift on the wing tip........OPPS
Leave the leads long and solder a jst to the bare leads
Run the wires to the bay. Plug in to fly unplug when finished. Allthough its a bad habit I charge my bec batt while its still in the plane. Once installed I never remove it.
Spar is glued with PU, wings joined with 3M90.
Profile shot of the fuse. With this method its virtually idiot proof. Slides rite into place.
I used 3M90, sprayed the cutout of the fuse heavily then put it into place transfering the glue to the wings. Removed the fuse let it tack up, then attached it to the wing.
There will be spars joining the wing to the fuse, and the glass will also reinforce the assembly.
Has a nice sleek look to it.
Motor mount plate installed.
Close up of mounting plate.
Sanded the fuse to wing to make an almost seamless appearance. Also added flat spars connecting the wing to the fuse. This will add lots of strength and hopefully keep the fuse from snapping on unexpected landings.
Battery bay lid installed.
Door open. Will hold x2 2100 packs
Servos in cutout.
Servos installed with gold n rod and capped
The rx is under the coro on the left
Just a rough sketch, I am thinking instead of two 2100 3s packs going with one 3000-3700 3s pack which leaves plenty of room on the sides for servos. Then the electronics bay immidiatly behind this.
triple bay on FS, partially covered
gear and motor install. the antenna exits through a tube in the wing.
Still neet to hook up the elevons
The motor mount is two pieces of ply,one on the top and one on the bottom to sandwich the foam in. The mounts are glassed over,then monocoated over. To mount the motor ,just wrap a few zipteis through the lite ply and it is done.
On the fs you dont want any excess weight behind the LE so dont over engineer the little guy.
Esc cover installed
access door to unplug motor
I just propped up the leading edge 2mm then hot glued the lid down. Very simple.
Carbon strip installed in wing tips.
Top glassed with a single layer using yellow jacket.
Bay doors open.
Bottom, the top piec overlaps the leading and trailing edge.
different point of view
Bottom covered. I really dig the black with white racing stripes, not only is it coll looking but it makes the bottom really standout for me.
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