Square Rigger kit-18 Gun Brig-of-war of 1797
Square Rigger kit-18 Gun Brig-of-war of 1797
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The finished model
Shipping pagkages being inspected by assistant
The hull as received
The deck showing servo mounts in hold
Masts, spars, rudder with extension, longboat, and servo hatch with attached water seal
plywood frame parts and plastic hatch for the main hatch
Gluing the main hatch frame
The hatches and companionway frames. Bending the top molding to the curve of the hatch frame.
Gluing the ash frame on the companionway
Deck picture of model with lots of extra details added
Cannon parts as supplied on the right, and after cleaning up. Note the rubber wheels on the axels
Gluing the transom and stool bed to the axles
Gluing the axle trees and brackets. Note spacer under axles
New wood wheels
Gluing the axles to the trees
Dressed up with wood wheels
Cutting the post tops
The bits and wheel, notice the shape of the post tops.
Deck viewed from aft.
Deck from bow.
Capstan and long boat on the hatch cover.
Tapered rod to guide filling for bowsprint hole.
Starting holes drilled for bowsprint.
Tapered rod on bowsprit rest.
Tapered rod coming through the hole to guide the filling.
Bowsprit, rest, and bits in place.
String used to check that bowsprit is aligned with centerline of ship. Assistant is goofing off.
I wrapped Scotch Magic Tape around bowsprit to keep epoxy filler from bonding to it.
Rudder and support on the keel, with rudder shaft going through hole in the support
Servo, mounting block, and plate
Original servo location before shortening rudder shaft. It wouldn't fit under the upper deck
Framing for the rear upper deck with servo installed
Servo horn, shaft lever under the rear deck
Rudder shaft with bearing, and home made lever
Frame for upper fore deck
Underside of fore deck filed out to fit down on bowsprit
Lots of clamps to glue inner rail strips
Gluing the triangular strips for the waterway
Scuppers between each gunport
Locating the knightheads and timberheads on the bow rail
Knightheads and timberheads glued to the bow rail
Drilling out the gammoning slot on the stem
Head rails clamped to the stem to locate the hauseholes. Note the x position for the location of the rigging eye for the bowsprit shrouds just aft of the lower headrail
Hauseholes, rigging eye, and gammoning slot drilled
Pattern for etching bow gunport
Pattern taped to the transom
HMS Snake Isn't she a beauty!
Looks like the only change is the addition of the misen mast
Scribe guide plate showing tapped holes holding sharpened bolt
Scribe marks on the bulwarks
Guide for applying the lower mask for the yellow stripe
The guide clamped in place with the tape being applied
Using a 1/8x1/8" wood strip clamped under the rail to mark the top of the yellow stripe
Propping up the hull to mark the waterline
Applying the copper plate
All the paint applied. Next to the gunports you can see red smears that leaked onto the yellow stripe where the masking tapes overlapped
The winter shipyard.
Aft deck partition, from SC&H
HMS Fly of 1776 would be a good candidate for the stern decorations.
1/3 scale Mountain Howitzer, 1.4" bore
1/8 scale Little Rivers 2-4-4-2
Front and rear planks for the upper rear deck
The rear deck mounted under the rear plank molding
The back side of one of the channels showing the double sided tape marking the pin hole position
The rear channel mounted to the side of the hull with the third pin poisition marked with a tape tab
Top and bottom of each step marked on the masking tape. The paint scraped off the hull to provied a good gluing surface
The steps glued on
Epoxing the headrails
The bow with upper deck, catheads, headrails, and channels mounted
The finished hull
Note color and sheen difference
Mounting deck furniture, and bulwark fittings
Sprucing up the ship's wheel
All the hatches and bitts are pinned to the deck with 4-40 rods and bolts so they can be removed. I worry about future repairs and refinishing.
Note the double wheel stand, and the companionway doors
Companionway with hinges and cannon balls
Diagram of final line layout
Pinned and CA'd
Servo and horn installed
Temp deck with tiller and line layout shown
Top view of control horn and lines
Dark brown paint on wheels with brass painted rim, and Waterlox tung oil on stand.
Notice entryways for the anchor cables on the right end of the triple section hatch.
The bits and capstan
Jig for holding small parts while spraying
Wheel and companionway
companionway and guns
Starting to look like a real ship
Details of the main lower top (without the flooring), cap, and topmast
The main topmast crosstree, cap, and topgallant mast
back int the shop
5 inch resin cannon
on deck facing stern
Spritsail yard in place
Bs in my Tops
Plumb rod suspended from the cieling in front of the main mast. The blue tape helps show the alignment of the edges.
Using a collet block to mark a mast on center
The detailed main top and cap.
Rounded edge of the bolsters glued to the tresseltrees on each side of the mast hold the brass fid in alignment and will protect the shroud lines that will loop around the mast and go through the lubber's hole to the chains
The main top from below showing the 4 eyes on each side to attach the futtock shrouds.
The upper top and cap. Note the bolster holding the fid in place, and holes drilled at the end of the three crosstrees for the topgallant shrouds.
Bowsprit cap and the "b"s. Dolphin striker mounting groove cut on the front of the cap, but not mounted yet.
More bowsprit and jibboom details
Twenty shroud chains
Chain bending jig
Bending handle with pin to engage brass rod surrounded by 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8" holes.
Bending handle on the 1/8" pin for the first bend
First two bends in the brass rod
Deadeye loop formed
All bends formed
Setup to solder with wet cloth around deadeye
Finished chain with deadeye
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