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West Michigan Park Flyers New Mako Sea Plane
West Michigan Park Flyers New Mako Sea Plane
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Mako Seaplane Templates tiled letter.pdf
Mako Seaplane Templates tiled A4.pdf
Mako Seaplane Templates full.pdf
Wing is supported by 3 carbon fiber spars
10" servo extentions are used so that servos can be easily removed and worked on.
The plywood motor mount (13) should be glued to motor mount backer (18) with CA glue or epoxy. And the motor mount backer is then glued to the back of the fuselage with epoxy or polyurethane glue (gorilla glue).
Plywood support pieces: Double motor mounts for extra strength. Servos trays for easy removal. Battery tray to strengthen foam. Magnet tabs for hatch. Horns for control surfaces.
Connect rudders together using a Z bend on one side and an EZ link on the other.
A pipe or something round can be used to precurve the depron foam
Turnigy 2730 - 1500KV motor. good for faster outdoor flight, with 3s 750mah battery
C2403 - 2100KV motor. good for light weight indoor flight with 2s 800mah battery
Paint plywood pcs, and enlarge holes for z-bends and ez-connects.
Use middle hole on elevator horn.
Use middle hole on rudder horn
Use top hole on aileron horns
If you are doing a scratch build, you will need to cut out foam, router or melt spar grooves. Then cut clearance bevels for hinges and glue spars in place
Make glue hinges with Foam-Tac.
Glue sides in place, make sure they are square and straight.
Glue horizontal stab and trussing in place (trussing pcs are 4" long), make sure it is square to sides. (picture is of upside down plane)
Install rudder servo, horns and control rod before trussing.
Glue trussing. Lengths form front to back are, 2-1/2 , 3-3/8 , 4.0 , 4-1/8 , 4-3/4 , 3-3/4
Glue wear pads in place.
Glue elevator servo and horn in place, and connect rudders with z-bends, ez-connects, and 6" carbon rod.
Screw plywood control plate to servo horn, attach ez-connects, and glue servo in place.
Attach aileron horns and control rods.
Glue side supports to fuselage.
Glue motor mount spacers in place as needed to get prop 3/4" out away from foam wing. (It is easyer to screw motor to mount before glueing fuselage to wing)
Flip plane over and glue elevator servo wire in place. KEEP SERVO WIRE AWAY FROM PROP!!!
Attach ESC and glue wires in place.
Battery should be attached under the nose to achieve the correct center of gravity.
See more pics in post #1430
Can your plane do a hand stand?
Mako or pin cushion? Maybe not the most advanced method to hold things but it works for me.
Looking good. Still need the trim the hatch yet.
Nose of the fuselage just needs a little touch up sanding then it's done.
Pretty much ready to go minus the hatch.
I really like how the servos install. With the wmparkflyers.com kit you get a great set of laser cut plywood parts including these servo trays. No more hot gluing servos. Should one go bad it would take less then 5 minutes to swap out.
My motor installation. Very straight forward and greatly simplified with the pre-cut firewall.
Radio and esc installation. I use two sided tape. Easy-peasy.
The twin rudders can be a bit of a challange but I've used this system before and have had great success with it.
Mako with my Dx8
Mako with dx8
Hatch is trimmed to fit and ready for paint.
My hatch latch design. This picture shows a 4-40 bolt threaded through and glued to a cut down HXT-900 servo arm. The black disc is part of the plywood parts in the kit.
The second servo arm acts as the latch and turns with the arm on top of the hatch. The smaller depron rectangles keep the hatch centered on the fuselage. Pretty simple.
The manditory pre-maiden picture.
Cooling hole cut into the bottom of the nose
this picture shows the 3M heavy duty packing tape I put on the bottom of the floats. Works great.
Post flight picture after a very successful maiden. As you can see it was a beautiful evening to float fly.
One more picture of the Mako floating in the shallows.
The Mako ready to go.
I really like how stable the Mako flies even in a bit of a lake breeze
Low and slow just skimming over the waves.
Buzzing the camera man upright. A good shot of the cooling hole in the nose.
Low and slow inverted photo pass.
How about a little formation flying with Piper Cruiser. Did I say it was a b-e-a-utiful morning to fly. :D
The stink bug - Von Dutch style - Oh Honey!
FFF Mako. Just need some colors now.
The ugly underside
This cooling hole helps keep things much cooler without having to add scoops or having heat sinks sticking through the fuselage. It is out of sight under the nose the amount of water that's gotten in has been insignificant.
I use FoamSafe glue to assemble the Mako and always put a nice fillet at the joint between the wing and the fuselage.
Servo tray painted black.
I paint all the control horns and pushrod guides too.
Mako after maiden
Matching orientation stripes for the wing bottom.
Fuse and pontoon graphics. left and right talon are different.
The test victims..er..subjects.
All the parts cut out. You will notice a few extra pieces in the pile.
Instead of the wood I used plastic for the servo trays. These are on top to help prevent the foam from being crushed when the screws are being tightened.
The top plate of the KFm4 airfoil being applied. The 50% wing chord placement must be exact but I allowed overlap on the leading edges. The overlap will be cut away at a later time. Much easier to apply if you have the overlap
The bottom of the MAKO being prepped. I moved the servo channels and cut through the top plate for the servos. Of note here, I removed the two forward CF spars as I felt they were not needed as it is now a triple layer of foam. I also moved the rear sp
The bottom KFm4 plate has been added. You might have noticed the plates being in pieces. Normally I would have used and recommended one piece for the plates but I was running out of foam and needed to use pieces. Note the seams are in different locatio
I laminated the foam plates together using the 3M 77 spray glue. This stuff works but it gets all over. You will have to mask off what you don't want the glue on and I highly recommend to spray outside!
Similar build as the regular MAKO. You just have to remove material from the floats to allow for the KFm4 plates. Note I added a lower plastic ring around the servos for the screws to bite into.
I used a 1mm x 3mm strip of CF on the stab. It is inset flush with the foam. I used 30min epoxy here.
Floats being finished off.
I wanted to tie in the motor mount to the foam sides of the pod. As you can see in the pic I epoxied the 1/16 wood to the foam. The motor mount is redesigned a little and it is made out of 3/32". A little thicker for the screws to have more bite.
Motor mount assembled.
I added some triangle stock to the inside of the mount to tie the mount and sides together. 30 min. epoxy here also.
Here I am adding the Spar Urthane to waterproof the motor mount. Inside and out. I used two coats.
Blenderm hinges applied for the ailerons. A layer of HK foam glue was laid down first so the blenderm was permanent.
Blenderm for the elevator.
I used CA hinges for both rudders. 30min epoxy to hold the hinges in.
Tapering of the leading edges. I mentioned this earlier. Used a box cutter to remove most of the material to the general shape and then used a 150 grit sanding block to finish it off.
Keeping things simple. The connection between the rudders. A bicycle spoke, dubro clevis and quick link. Adjustable and solid!
Servos installed along with pushrods. I also used bicycle spokes for the aileron pushrods instead of CF rod.
It was recommend to use 5gr servos. I ended up using 9gr servos because the wire leads were longer would reach the pod. Therefore I could eliminate the four wire extensions. The thicker wing allow for a channel that I could easily fish the servo wires
Dubro clevis on the aileron. Note, I made all my control horns out of plastic. Traced out the horns from the supplied patterns. The gluing surface was roughened up with 50 grit sand paper and scored with the back of a #11 blade with a cross hatch patte
Clevis to the rudder. Threaded rod bound to the CF rod. The elevator is similar.
I changed the way the hatch was secured. Just a simple turn key held on with a servo screw. Again plastic roughened and glued to foam for the screw to bite into.
Since I removed the magnet I needed some hatch guides glued to the bottom of the hatch to keep it from slipping sideways. Also note the plastic tongue.
I replaced the battery tray with one made out of vinyl siding. Again roughened up and epoxied into place once the CG was set.
Looking down into the electronics compartment.
The motor mounted. Since I moved the CF support rod forward, this allowed me to cut away some of the trailing edge from the prop. Hopefully this would help quiet the MAKO down when flying.
Sea Hawk in Red
US Coast Guard
Close up of the USCG fuse detail.
The aftermath :-(
Battery Tray cut out and being rebuilt.
Had a rattle in the float ... Upon inspection as I was repairing a hole in the float. I noticed that the crash had enough force to pop the bottom off the servos off !!!
MAKO AND GEMINI
MAKO SEAPLANE WEST MICHIGAN PARK FLYERS
A Hoy Matey.
I used Krylon H2O to paint the plane. Its water based spray paint. Runs easy and take a long time to dry.
Adding triangular stock bottom 'rails' (chines) can improve tracking & ease of separation from the water during takeoffs, results in good tracking on landings
These are the forward two of a 3 float setup mounted to the belly of a slow flyer; 3rd under-tail float also worked better with triangular edge rails.
As Greg says... go blue!!!
Love the thought in the trussing
Weight before motor battery and trussing
WMPF Mako ready for action on Georgetown Lake.
current state of my Mako :( caught a wing tip on knife edge.
Mako USCG decal set above and the Polaris decal set below. I learned from this comparison. I like the thin vinyl material it's made from. Even though I did not like the way the lettering was handled, overall the Polaris decals are a nice set.
My Mako. Although she may never fly, she answers to a higher calling.
Overall I like the look. Never mind the bit of tape here and there. It is a mock-up after all.
Hey! Where did my moto go to!?! Maybe I should at least give her a motor decal.
Each letter is individually cut. I like the look better. Even if I did cheat by keeping the connecting white areas in the cockpit.
Just playing around.
Mako - Design Your Own.pdf
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