Aircraft - Sailplanes
New Glider from HobbyKING-Phoenix 2000
New Glider from HobbyKING-Phoenix 2000
Thread starter's only
Page 1 of 5
no indication in manual where all the screw should go. lots of leftover after complete installation (did u see the lanyu clevis..? junk)
junk lanyu clevis, using fuel tube as reinforcement.
elevator clevis change to fms parts. fit nice and good.
comparison lanyu(fuel tube and fms clevis)
lanyu, fms, standart. fms clevis fit perfectly (from left to right)
quality... lanyu, fms, standart. (left to right) lanyu clevis still junk. decided to change all with fms clevis. inflight securrity..
remove all those junk clevis with 1 at bottom.
some treasure hunter for parts..
safe and secure
glider with retract..... ? hahaha....
bottom view. all white...
this thing is huge...
new gadget. that cigarette box just comparison to size. i dint smoke.
before maiden top view
as advice i have made the bottom part visible. tq very much my friends.
after crash investigation. motor had burn. all those wiring inside there turn to black.
firewall melt due to overheat from motor.
can you advise me with this firewall mod? link please...
what motor kv can be use with this prop.
figure without any throttle and end up 331watt at 29.8Amp with 10x6 prop 1100kv motor. (need to upgrade esc to 35Amp)
my supervisor that always trying to help.. duhhh..
my fleet for today fly
This is the plywood plate I added to the inside of the firewall
The plate glued in place
Cooling slots, not sure these were worth the work
Prop blade, before and after
Balancing shortened prop
Not too much damage, but the rear wing attach screws weren’t doing much
Good use for all those prop shaft adapters
All done, I hope this will last a little longer
Cooling holes from when I added plywood to the inside of the firewall
Finished spinner, this could work
You can either brush the polycrylic on or airbrush it.
Added black stripes for visibility
1.5mm foam tape to get it straight....
....that's how it should be.
Simple red and white from above... just a couple of decals on the side of the fuselage.
Blue wing with yellow tips... the flash has lightened the blue it is actually quite a bit darker (as per recommendations for altitude visability).
HK spinner.... really nice quality. I went with an 11x8 as they were out of stock of the 10x6 I was looking for... anyone want any 11x8 blades ??!! Notice cardboard spacer between metal plate and the plastic firewall.
Turnigy motor with added ply spacer (slotted for additional ventilation). Epoxied as best I could with the motor in place. I needed 12mm x 3mm machine screws due to the increased firewall thickness.
Added a popsicle stick RX tray forward so excess wires can be pushed out the way below the servos.
OrangeRX satelite extension winding it's way down towards the tail. The satelite RX is just forward of the tail.
Here we go: Epoxy, circles of fibreglass, plywood firewall.
First filling using light weight spackle
Slots cut in all control surfaces to add wood piece for control horn screws
Rough filling complete, ready for sanding
Tape seals the gap while the Welder dries
About a 1/16th gap for the Welder hinge
Welder in the gap, a thin layer seems to work best. Once the Welder is applied and scraped the control surface is lined up until it dries.
I made this to scrape the excess Welder from the hinge line
Tape is pulled off after about 24 hours leaving a very flexible hinge
Just the weight of the rudder is causing this deflection, very strong and flexible hinge
About 40% efficiency improvement!
Painted the tips with red paint.
The basic pieces, I cut down the X mount to fit behind the spinner
The motor glued to the back of the plywood
The plastic, lots of holes, but it has had over 50 flights and still looks the same
Mounting complete, with a turbo spinner, I seem to get good airflow into the motor
Checking the CG, I am still waiting for a larger spinner, I think it will look a little better. OK for now.
Phoenix 2000 and Mustang 1.2
Turnigy TG9 servos for flaps and the double sided tape to hold them (plus I'll ad a dab of hot glue) & Replacement rods and clevises
Turnigy TGY90s servos for the ailerons and better clevises.
Don't know which way to insert the servos. Can't remember which way the stock servos were inserted! Plus deciding which rod and clevis method to go with. Will use metal clevis for the wings and might use 'paper clipped' junk originals for rudder/elevator.
Prop, Amp/Watt/volt meter, Tacho and temp gauge for checking power draw, temp and rpm.
Friend in the field with his skyfly max & the little area i have to land in :)
Apparently I was in the right spot !!
Adapter plate is attached to the battery with Velcro, then this whole assembly is held in with a Velcro loop.
My Grandson was my lift spotter
Full crow for landing
left of rudder
Right of rudder
receiver and SBEC
Satellite and servo extensions
Complete kit; custom paint: black invasion stripes on bottom / orange on top.
Dremeled out some foam and added some quick-release velcro tape to the plywood reinforcement - sits flush; also added Blenderm? tape for the a/f hinges; and some heavy-duty fiber packing tape to the leading edge.
Made use of stock elev/rud servos for flaps (replaced with Tower Pros); added Dubro wing skids out on the end to protect servos and foam on landings.
Added more beefier clevises for the tail feathers (and epoxied them in); time to put some fresh Gorilla tape for the tail skid.
Removed tape from elevator/rudder and replaced with nylon hinges (CA'd in place - very solid and smooth).
Pulled out the stock wooden lipo tray and moved the 2200mah back a bit further onto a Velcro strip; allows for heavier motor - but the Rimfire .10 is only 71g - so maybe I'll add the tray back. Made a nice foam/Velcro wedge to hang my receiver from the t
Custom wheel - works great; minor blemish wrinkles from a hard landing (early on).
All the pieces (except for stock lipo tray - which would be included with hardware).
Cut holes in the brown disc that comes glued to the motor for ventilation purposes, and made a thin ply firewall to protect plastic from heat.
Vent holes match metal plate that goes on the outside of the firewall. Ply firewall will sit inside the fuse
See the marks?
Solartrim stripes for visibility
Glider skids to save wear on wings
Ditched the stickers "I normally do," and went with a tradtional paint job.
Invasion stripes on the bottom for orientation. Looks like a $800.00 F3B.
Few little touch ups to the wing tips with a red Sharpie is in order. I got some scuffs during transport.
Did some basic Acro today. Rolls, loops, and spins pretty well for a 2m.
Up Up and Away.
The hole in the middle of the firewall is for the motor shaft to stick through.
Bottom: Note near full length basswood. The fuselage to tray screws go through into it.
Side view: Note downthrust angle. The motor mounting screws go through the uprights and into the angled supports, reinforcing the joints.
Topish view: I mounted my ESC to this part.
Bolts and Tools used to attach Phoenix 2000 wings.
Wingroot mount damage
Phoenix 2000 with TG380 Gyro and double sided 4mm mounting foam
CoG Dive Test Diagram
Our local slope at the beach(About a 70' bluff.) My Gerasis "Jerry" in the foreground next to my Phoenix 2000. Both planes are a blast to fly.
Added rear cross-strap (see front one for comparison) to beef up the area around the two wing-mount screws.
2 washers sit perfectly around the front post of the h.stab to lift the front edge and reduce the decalage angle.
Here you can see how far back the LiPo sits and how the strap just holds the edge of it. You can't see it, but a rubber band wrapped around LiPo helps strap hold on the batt.
Here you can see how much those 2 washers lift that edge. Works great for me. I'll continue testing it and report any additional findings.
Page 1 of 5
All RCGroups content copyright © 1996 - 2015 by RCGroups.com.
Terms of Service
Mark Forums Read
Back to Top