Sky Surfer - aka Bixler See Post #2 & #3 for parts & mods B4 asking
Sky Surfer - aka Bixler See Post #2 & #3 for parts & mods B4 asking
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Motor specs from manufacturer (www.jpower.hk)
Note the absence of reinforcement blocks. Make sure you use a 3-4mm CF rod in the groove on the bottom. Thanks to Skootch for the picture.
Note the nice reinforcement blocks in it. You can still put a 3-5mm CF rod down the middle inside the fuse. Thanks to belize pilot for the picture.
Proper orientation of prop
Note: Washer creates too much drag. Remove before flying.
Motor ready for glue or whatever.
The raised foam locks the motor in place to prevent the motor from rotating.
The raised foam
Three plastic motor mount adapters for the BL upgrade. Maybe they are needed for a brushed motor. Anyone know for sure?
Rear view of assembled motor
I started with a pvc 3/4 adapter, I'm not sure what it is really called, but one end is threaded and the other end is smooth.
I removed the factory motor mount, and found an x mount that would fit the motor. also shown is the 3/4 adapter with the threads cut off.
I inserted the motor into the pvc pipe, then cut off the tabs of the x mount that were sticking out past the pvc adapter.
The ID of the pvc pipe provided just enough clearance around the motors can.
I cut slots into the ends of the x mount and srewed it to the pvc with some servo screws
I felt the OD of the adapter would require to much foam removal from the nacelle.
So i removed about 3/4 of the OD of the adapter with my hi tech milling machine. (dremel with sanding drum in the dremel drill press) I did not turn down the flange end of the adapter as you need this to be as thick as possible.
after turning down the pvc adapter, I trimmed out the foam inside the nacelle.
Test fitting the pvc adapter
final test fit looks pretty good.
Now I can slide the factory motor into the universal motor mount.
once in place I will run a couple of screws through the pvc flange into the tube holding the motor, and the motor will be remoable to swap out motors.
The servo wire is less than 1" long.
Sky Surfer Aileron Servo Setup
4mm carbon rod embedded into fuse sides to keep the nose from bending or breaking off if it ever noses in .
I removed just enough foam to install a cabinet latch to help in retaining the wing.
once latched, it takes a pretty good tug to unlatch.
I could have cut the hole a bit bigger to make removal a little easier.
Plane flies much better with these worthless items tossed in the trash bin. You will find it climbs better, glides better, and you get longer flight times.
Stock prop adapter (I lost the cone somewhere). I used a 4mm nut from something else. Replaced junk prop with TGS 6x4E. I removed the prop adapter and pressed it back on. Easy to do.
Grip the shaft just above the step in it. Put another pair of pliers just above it and pry up until it comes off. It is easy to do.
The "Hines" Hat... it's all the rage this season!!
XM-400 Motor (not strong enough)
Ready to glue together
Underside of SS
New Turnigy motor installed
All loaded and ready to fly!
Where's the reinforcement foam?
Super Lightning (Wild Hawk) fuse halves with reinforcement foam structure
Easy Star inner structure
Slow Stick inner... oops, never mind!! ;)
factory motor held into universal motor mount with two screws.
Two turnigy airplane gyros on pitch and roll. I needed easy access, but still have enough room to swap batts, So, I mounted them to plywood and attached to the plane with magnets.
1/4" x 2" sticks shaped to fuselage
1/8" ply for additional strength
1/16" ply pieces surrounding the LG. The object is to make the LG removable.
LG bent and in place
2 - 4mm CF rods for strength - 5" long
55mm wheels added and bolted down. Note: the LG is removable in the event the wire breaks or I want to use different LG or floats.
3/32" balsa sides for slightly more strength.
Cutouts to fit
Hot glue in place
A little paint and ....... 'fini
This space for rent.
Note how badly the fuselage is bent. UPS didn' do this, it was made that way. It could possibly be fixed but why should I pay a lot for a new model and have to perform major repairs just to make it fly?
The servos were not actually reversed, they were so mis aligned that they were useless without repositioning the control horns. As you can see, the cutout is the minimum required to reach the servo horn screw.
Again you can see that the minimum foam was cut away in order to correct the problem. These are quality control issues, not UPS issues.
If you put some string around these first, you can pour some boiling water in the nose and pull them out easier. Thanks to flyvertigo for this one.
6 washers total - useless
Just cut around with a sharp knife and bingo
routed three new wires, I believe they're 10/12 Gauge
For the motor mount, I just a piece of a paint mixing stick with a pair of scissors, Hot glue the son of a gun, and done
6x4 APC prop fits perfectly
I modded, the cannopy so I could access the battery better and I also removed the stupid washers. I added a piece of loly pop in the frot so the canopy could lock correctly
Hot glue and loly pop stick, You can barely see the cut...
the current Pilot in traning...
the camera woman....
Gyro is used for stunt and 3D
The 800 with the gyro - EK2-0704
Power supply and charger that came with you Hawk Sky
Close up of balance charger. Note: Charge Rate = 1.0A (or 1000mah) (or ~1/2C on a 2200mah LiPo).
Rubber band wing holder with balsa dowel for holding unused bands.
ESC mounted outside.
Right wing marking.
From starboard view
From port view
Straight after remounting
Straight here, too. Some old photos show that it was aligned properly then too.
Original photo at first build time.
36" blow gun with dart.
New assy in New ARF
Moved slightly rearward to show slot alignment
Motor separated from spacers
Slight offset for a tiny amount of right thrust. Not quite enough. It should be about double what is shown here.
Open faced sando
rear fo fuse
Back from the dentist - teeth as good as chicklets.
1/2 LB PULL 3M COMMAND MINI HOOKS
A little medium CA and it's installed.
Close up of the 3M COMMAND strip mini hook in use.
I will be using 2 of the larger and 10x brighter Led.
4mm - I could have used 3mm. I am sure either is OK. Of course, 3mm is a bit lighter.
555 Timer. Basic 555 circuit with modifications to accommodate 11.1 LiPo input and overdrive LED's 30-32%.
Two slits in the floor of fuselage and the strap loops around the CF on the bottom of the fuselage.
Horizontal stab was far too floppy. Thie solves that problem.
Cut slot with soldering gun and glued in with UHU Creativ (last tube)
3 mm carbon fiber tube just floats on the wire push rod. The plane now has left and right rudder throws that are equal.
3M Extreme tape added from wing root to tip to help with flexing in inside loops and pulling out of dives.
After a period of time the fuselage cracks. The Sky Surfer is a bit thinner on the bottom, too.
With no shock absorber, the LG bends easily unless I learn how to land better.
Here is one way. I added .9 oz to the total weight doing it this way. I am sure I could have done a bit better. Maybe .7oz.
Here is another way. I added .5 oz to the total weight. The "collar" is from a Wild Hawk plane - Long gone - RIP
The knife is from Home Depot and the red thing is a sharpener from Harbor Freight. A sharp blade is key to cutting foam with a crisp edge. Of course, a metal straight edge keeps it straight.
This shows the landing zone I fly in my backyard.
A sharp knife to cut out the shape and then Dremel with a grinding stone to even out the floor and sides works great for this.
They look more like air brakes.
This will be the top of the wing. Looking from the rear.
As installed with hot glued
Removed by running hot tap water to soften the hot glue.
240 Hobby King LED lights (4 surface mount strips).
Hot water re-shaped the nose and hot glue put Humpty Dumpty back together. I am not going to fill any cracks. I will just reapply some 3M Extreme Tape to reinforce the bottom of the nose.
Prof100's upper surface wing lights
Both ends of the "Y" Cable
Cables stuffed into existing channel
Hobby King LED light strips embedded into foam and covered with clear 3M storage tape.
First step was to mark the trench with rollerball pen. Step 2 is take a sharp hobby knife to establish and outline the sides of the trench. Step 3 is to use the soldering gun with special tip size to the trench
Fairly expensive camera. I think It might be an operator error.
It is difficult to see. But, it is class 4 memory with 2 adapters.
Hard to dispute the printed invoice. Look at the fuselage price then compared to now!! <gulp>
Then, I taped it in place. The rubber band is just insurance in case the clear tape fails. Also, if I lost the camera, it is only $10.99 (total to my doorstep) to replace it.
Here is the ARF that I ordered on Apr. 3, 2010 - It is still in the box. I just opened it again tonight for pictures. ALL decals included and attached.
The fuselage and other foam parts (vertical & horizontal stabs) were ordered on Apr. 16, 2010. Wing set for the foam parts was not sent - No decals are included with foam parts.
Note- I only got 2 control horns with my ARF (4/16/10). Ah well, I toss them anyhow.
Shipping box was dinged enough for UPS to put a damaged contents label on it.
Everything inside arrived fine.
Note: Orange (and 1 white-ESC) wires are closest to the orange labels.
The annoying part of the build. I had to solder some extensions in order for the wires to reach the fuse. The ESC is velcroed to the top of fuse
Finished wing. I included the hooks for the rubber bands. I used Epoxy.
My favorite servo horns (E-Flite). The stock control arms are the only hardware I used that came with the plane. Long servo arms for god travel. (spoilerons have been setup)
Strapping tape used on all hinges. 3mm cf tube used for flex in rudder control rod.
Ended up using durable double sided tape inside and using electrical tape on the outside. It is super tight. I ran it on full throttle for a good ten seconds, it's not going to move.
3mm CF across the H-Stab as well as along bottom of fuse.
AR 6200 and a whole lotta wires. I got everything behind this point so the nose is clear for easy battery installation.
Jr Hawk/Wild Hawk c/w Sky surfer brusless motor
Sky Surfer with turnigy 2835-2200kv
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