Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes
3D Hobby Shop 71" AJ Slick - Build & Fly thread
3D Hobby Shop 71" AJ Slick - Build & Fly thread
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Material removed from stock Hitec servo arms to clear ball joint through servo travel.
70" Slick in Fantasy blue pictured with 51" Slick for size comparison.
Place wheels on aluminum axles, secure with aluminum wheel collars, tighten set screw w/ 1.5mm hex driver.
Place wheel/axle inside pant, attach to carbon landing gear as shown with locknut. Use strong pliers to hold wheel collar and tighten nut. Make sure you start the nut straight. Nut is self-locking, will require force to tighten.
Secure pants with two wood screws each.
Attach gear to fuselage with 3 x 4-40 screws as shown. Use loctite or other thread-locking compound on these screws. Cover with balsa cover panelm gluing panel on with CA or polyurethane or epoxy glue.
Secure tailwheel to fuselage using 2 x 4-40 screws as shown. Use loctite on these screws. Check all screws on tailwheel assembly for tightness...loctite is a good idea here too.
Remove covering over cooling holes cut into balsa sheeting on bottom of fuselage.
Use a q-tip to apply vaseline to the center of the hinge point. This will keep hinge glue from cloging and sticking the hinge. Do not put vaseline on the ends ("points") because do want the glue to stick to those parts.
Apply your desired glue (hinge lgue, epoxy, or polyurethane) into the hinge holes in the rudder and the vertical stabilizer. Use several drops in each hole. Wipe away any excess on the surface.
Put the hinge points into their holes in the rudder and slide the rudder and vertical stab together. Make sure you can swing the rudder easily from bevel to bevel. Clean up any glue which has leaked out. Allow to dry.
Remove covering over the rudder control horn hole. On all control horns on this aircraft, remove the covering in the same way.
Locate the rudder hardware bag. It contains the ball links on the pull-cable ends (pictured). In this bag are two control horn sets. Both are used (one on each side of the rudder) for pull-pull rudder installations. Using 30 minute epoxy or polyuretha
This is skipping shead: If you use a significantly heavier power system, and need more tailweight, we have provided this rear rudder servo system. Note that you will have to mount your pushrod on the inside of the servo arm, depending on arm type.
Proceeding with the standard pull-pull installation: Tape the rudder as shown to hold it centered.
Using the supplied locking-nut, tighten the ball-link onto the control horn permanently. Attach the pull-pull cable to the rudder end ball-link assembly. Note that we use a loop and two crimps for the cable attachment. Use a drop of thin CA on the crim
Install rudder servo as shown, use supplied screws and locknuts to attach the ball-links and pull-cable ends to the servo arm as shown.
Attach pull cables to pull cable ends as shown, using a loop and two crimps. Apply a drop of thin CA to the crimps after thay finished. Use the pull-cable end thread to tighten the cable assmbly as necessary, just to snug, not "banjo-tight".
Open holes in fuselage covering as shown.
Open Hstab slot as shown
Glue Hstab with thin CA. Use plenty, you can always clean up any drips with debonder. Allow to dry.
Install elevator with joiner first, prepping and installing hinges exactly as on rudder.
Install horn as on rudder. Install servo and pushrod, install with screws and locking nuts.
Remove covering over servo opening and control horn slots as shown.
Install horn with plenty of epoxy or PU glue. allow to dry.
Install servo and pushrod, using locknuts on screws.
Pushrod geometry with surface deflected.
I like big wheels! HC 85mm wheels shown with the stock.
plenty of room...
My pilot is a perfect fit in size and color for my Blue Slick!
Used 2x M2 washers as spacers between ball-link and servo instead of shaving servo arm. Geometry still seems fine with range of throw.
Photo before maiden.
Scorpion 4025-12 fits perfect on pre-drill holes with no spacers
Posing before flight. Glad I was still smiling afterward.
My collection of toys. The wife says that is too many.
Inside layout. Very easy battery access.
Size comparison with my 47" EF Edge 540.
Finally found a way to store this beast.
My son likes this plane.
Trimmed the edges of the landing cover plate and folded monokote around bottom. Used packing tape instead of glue to attach.
Hot glue. Won't get fooled again :)
AJ has enough Slicks already :)
one kill sticker for the fallen prototype...
Last of the epoxy done. Whew!
Even got anal and sanded the corners of the control horn mounting plates.
Rear rudder servo installation.
The pull-pull rudder servo mount makes a great place to put the receiver.
A123 Battery location for neutral flight.
Motr and Speed control installation.
Canopy hatch hold down needed a little modification to pull down tight. Opening the bottom of the hold-down holes made for easier installation and removal of the hatch.
Nice close fit spinner to cowl.
Speed control fit inside cowl. You can see the 1/16" plywood on top of the battery tray.
Note the 1/4" spacers.
Note the two Dean's connectors in the middle of the jumper are not hooked up. I have removed the negative side pins.
In this picture the two Dean's connectors in the middle of the jumper are hooked up. This is the last step in the battery connection process
small spinner gap.
Rotated the X-mount and put it on like a plus sign. Left the blind nuts incase other motors want to be tried. The Rimfire X-Mount has longer legs than the the Reaper / Stock holes.
small velcro fury squares is to keep the battery from any rock. Two 3M Velcro straps to secure pack
I covered the lower portion of the firewall and left side with clear covering. This will force the air over the battery more and the speed control and BEC. The two top holes on the right were left open.
left side holes covered up with clear covering
Rimfire 1.20 / 50-65-450 size motor, Castle 100amp Ice speed control. nice speed controller!
I used Bronze Bushings from some of my RC Car parts to shim the motor out. two on each leg.
Glued a small balsa plate to the right side to mount the Castle BEC Pro. Made a double Deans plug so I can unplug the BEC from the speed control. Notice the blue servo extension clip. This is so I can make changes to the speed control.
Receiver mounted on the rear tray, satelite receiver mounted down on the right side.
The landing gear cover plated was not smooth with the fuse. I pulled the covering back and filed / sanded the plate to a almost perfect fit.
Stock wheels were too small. I replaced them with Kavan 3'' / 75mm wheels. Drilled out to fit on the stock axles.
I didn't want to add an extension to the servo then have another extension to plug into. I installed the foam keeper to keep the wire from falling in. A 4'' extension works perfect to plug into.
There's still plenty of servo lead sticking out to grab and plug into the extension off the receiver.
I put a Dubro brass cone spacer between the ball links so they would not hit or rub on the servo arms when deflected. I had extra's.
51'' AJ Slick and the bigger brother the 70'' Slick
my 51'' Slick, 70'' Slick, 57'' 330SC, 48'' EF 300EXP
These are the pieces big enough to be worth picking up.
You got to love a char mark like that one!!!
We don't need not stinking landing gear!
Look close.. you can see the solder!!
I think this was my ESC, but it could be a burnt turd.
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