Recent Attachments for hercdriver7777
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This is how you get under a table!
Here is the final electronics install with everything tucked in along the left side.
RTF weight in the welders build was 6oz. The same airplane built with thin and medium CA was .2 ounces heavier. There could always be some weight variance in the EPP but I think that welders is the way to go not just for weight but construction fitting
Here she is all ready to go! :D
Wipe off the excess glue.
Install the SFGs while the glue is still wet.
Pit welders on the tabs and where they intersect the leading edge of the wing.
Put welders in the slots in the wing for the SFGs.
Cut the SFGs out and separate the trailing edges to go over the wing.
Trace around the battery with a pen and use a sharp knife to cut a hole slightly smaller than the battery.
The CG on this plane is still 81.5mm from the LE at the horz fuse piece. Balance appropriately with the battery and cut a slot on the top of the fuse to hold the battery in place.
Install the motor to the mount using four screws. Make sure the motor wires come out on the same side as your electronics.
This is great for slow high alpha rollers!
We get tons of throw on the ailerons now! :)
After the flue has fully tacked, install the mount on the fuselage. Take care to make sure it is centered and that each of the tabs lines up with the corresponding fuselage piece.
I use a little drop of CA in the keeper to keep the bolt tight.
Manually center the aileron and screw down the setscrew in the keeper.
Put the Z bend side of the pushrod into the aileron servo arm and deflect the aileron to insert the rod into the keeper on the control horns.
Install the keepers in the aileron control horns.
While the glue is drying, center the servo and arm and install the servo arm screw.
Use a couple small dabs of welders to secure the servo. Make sure those dabs are in places you can get to them with a knife so that you will be able to remove the servo in the future if the need arises.
Same as with the tail servos we will fish the wires through the fuse. The come in with the servo at a 45 degree angle to seat the bottom and then pop it into place making sure the servo tabs go under the tabs in the fuse that are there to hold the servo
Cut off the ends of the screws.
Use two screws to hold the plywood aileron horn to the plastic servo arm.
You will want to predrill some holes. I use the excess screws that come in the servo hardware package. Use a corresponding drill for the pilot holes.
While the motor mount is tacking we will make the aileron servo arm.
Put welders on the mount and let it tack up.
Put welders on the fuse and let it tack up.
Install the motor mount.
Proceed to the remaining build pics a few posts below.
Install the rudder servo arm and keeper.
With the new servos and control geometry we can get really sick throws now!
Install the rod into the keeper and center the surface. Cut off the excess.
To insert the rod into the keeper, deflect the elevator all the way down and cut off the rod right at the servo keeper.
If you forget to insert the rod in the keeper as you install the servo, like I did here, no worries. Follow the procedure below.
Go in at a 45 degree angle until the servo is seated in the back and then just press downward to pop the servo in place.
Fish the wires through the fuse and out of the front of the cut off truss.
Install the servos. I like to install the servos after the airframe is built. Of course you could install them as you build the plane. With the thin EPP it is very easy to install them after constructed and then you can use a very little dab of welders
Install the little servo keeper on the outer most hole, center the servo and install the arm on the servo.
CA the thread.
After it is dry, wrap it with thread.
Kick it and let it dry completely.
And very carefully attach the small ply oval shaped ply servo arm extension that comes in the kit hardware package. You need to leave enough wood overhanging the arm to attach the servo keeper later.
Put a dab of thin CA on the servo arm.
Take the longest servo arm in the hardware package for the servo and scuff up the top side of it.
These are our new digi servos! They are fast and center much better than the old ones.
Complete the same process on the other pushrod.
Be very careful not to get any drops of CA onto the pushrods.
Continue with each subsequent pushrod guide.
Install the first guide, push it into place not all the way down to the foam and kick it while holding it in place.
Then, using med CA find the first small lazered hole for the pushrod guides and fill it with glue.
Install the long pushrods in the tail starting by inserting the Z bend in the tail control horns.
Take all the pushrod guides out of the ply sheet and put six on each of the longer two pushrods.
Building is fun!!
Here are four completed pushrods ready to install.
Hit it with kicker and set aside.
After you lightly tack the Z bends in place, cover them with thin CA, slide the heat shrink over the Z bend shaft and heat the heat shrink to squeeze out excess CA.
Then, with thin CA lightly tack the Z bend onto the scuffed end of the pushrods.
First thing is to scuff up one end of all four control rods and the shaft area of all the Z bends.
While the glue tacks up on the wheel pants, lets build the pushrods.
Put welders on the wheel pants and let them tack up.
Put welders on the wheel pant mounts and let it tack up.
Let the glue dry on the gear assembly without weight on the gear. Make sure everything is in place and stays straight as it dries.
Clean up the excess glue.
On the center crossing of the gear legs you will want to take some thread and wrap it around the entire X assembly and ply plate. With welders I have not found this to be hugely important but with CA that area will delaminate without the thread.
Make sure you have enough welders in slots and covering the ply pieces.
Complete the same thing on the other side.
Slide the oval ring down onto the EPP and make sure it sits flush on the fuse.
Once the gear leg comes through the fuse, install the oval ply piece over the end of the leg and insert the leg into the slot in the horz. fuse piece.
While the glue is still wet, slide the gear legs through the center fuse piece with one in front of the ply block and the other behind.
There are also two slots in the horz. fuse piece for the gear legs. Fill them with welders too.
Fill the slot with welders.
After your gear legs are made the square ply piece goes into the fuselage here.
Next, you will put on the ply wheel pant mount/wheel keeper. It just slides over the axle and glues in place with medium or if you are careful thin CA.
This piece is very strong and light!
After it is wrapped with the thread, hit it with thin CA and kicker to finish of the gear leg.
Then wrap the whole joint with thread. No need for special carbon or kevlar thread. Standard sewing thread is fine. Here I am using a piece of fiberglass tow.
Make sure all the pieces are thin CAed securely.
You will put the little circular ply piece over the carbon axle and CA it to the ply angled piece to create a hub for the wheel to run against.
The angle and flat spot created by the ply piece and the carbon gear leg makes a nice joint to glue in the carbon axle with thin CA.
Second, you will glue the little ply angle piece to the end of one of the gear legs with thin CA.
First thing you will want to do is drill out the wheels so that the carbon axles fit without binding.
These are all the parts to build the LG assembly.
Again, as the glue dries on the trusses keep tweaking and checking to make sure everything is totally straight.
I cut one of the tips off the trusses so that you can run the servo wires from the tail servos out of the and tuck the wires back into that space after it is all finished to clean up the radio install.
If you did not install the trusses before you installed the upper fuse, now is the time to do so.
Now you can install the elevator control horn.
While everything is drying, take the time to keep tweaking it so that everything dries perfectly straight.
After the welders has tacked up glue the rudder to the fuse. Start at the top so you can manage the fin to rudder gap and work your way down.
While the glue tacks up install the control horn in the rudder the same way we did with the ailerons.
Put welders on the fuse fin side and let tack up.
Put welders on the fin and let it tack up. No need for glue in the elevator joiner area where it is half circled out.
After the glue has tacked up, attach the canopy to the fuse. Make sure it is going in the right direction!
Put welders on the canopy itself and let it tack up.
While the upper fuse is drying put welders on the canopy area and let it tack up.
Clean up any excess glue.
Put welders on the flat parts and tabs of the upper fuse piece, insert wet and let dry. Take care to make sure the upper fuse is in line with the lower fuse and 90 degrees to the horizontal fuse piece. Also make sure the front of all the fuselage pieces
Put welders on the tab slots and flat parts of the fuse.
At this point you can either install the 45 degree black EPP trusses on the lower part of the fuse or install the upper part of the fuse and do the trusses after. The first option allows you to put the whole assembly flat on the bench and glue int he tru
Also while the lower fuse and control horns are drying, fold over the ailerons and weight them down for a few minutes to loosen up the hinges.
Install the control horns while the glue is wet and let dry. You may have to cut out the EPP fuzz in the slot in the wing to get the horn to sit flush. So trial fit before gluing.
Put welders on the control horn.
While the lower fuse is drying we will install the aileron control horns. There are two different shape control horns in the kit. The ones angled the same as the hinge line of the ailerons are the ones for the ailerons. Sorry I do not have a pic of thi
Put the lower fuse onto the horizontal fuse piece while the glue is wet. Make sure it is 90 degrees to the horizontal piece and clean up all the excess glue.
Put welders in the tab slots and flat spots between the tab slots on the horizontal fuse piece. Be cautious not to put welders in the servo hole areas.
Now we are going to install the lower part of the fuselage. Put welders on the tabs and flat spots of the lower fuse.
Assembled stab to fuse.
After tacking for a few minutes assemble the stab to the fuselage piece. Notice there is a tab on the stab and fuse that will keep you from putting them on backwards.
Put welders on the stab/ele and let it tack up.
Get ready to install the stab and elevator. Put welders on the end of the fuse and let it tack up.
Weight it flat on a flat surface and let it dry completely. You can do this assembly with CA but I really think welders is the way to go. It gives you time to work and get everything straight. Welders is lighter and more durable too.
Wipe up as much excess glue as possible.
Come back over the top of the longer rod with welders.
Slide the longer rod through the ribs and into the slot over the center shorter rod. Seat everything flush in the slots.
Put welders on the outer ribs and in rib slots.
Put welders on the short rod.
Add welders along the entire slot.
Half way install the center rod and spars.
Fill the center spar slots with welders.
Fill the center section with welders.
Welders will work it's way through the top of the wing. I used some tape on the bench here to keep it from sticking to the bench.
This is how the spar assembly goes together. Short rod in the center first followed by longer rod over the top of it.
Glue the wings to the fuselage with wleders. Notice how the tabs on each wing prevent you from putting the wings on upside down.
Remove the little tabs of foam that are in the SFG slots with a sharp knife.
The center section, to the right in this photo, is where the oval ribs and double spar go.
The wing spar ribs that have the oval holes are for the inner spar slot where the spar is two rods thick.
Picture of the two latches that secure at the front of the hatch.
I replaced the six screws that originally held the hatch in with some latches. This is the back of the hatch where I have built some tabs that slide into place as you slide in the hatch from the front.
Good shot of the wires going in through the hatch.
If you wanted to be fancy you could mount the ESC in the cheek cowl. It won't cool as well hidden in there though.
You need to cut out the front of the hatch shelf to make a hole for the wires to come back into the plane.
There's that sexy anhedral again!
Since this thing comes cut for full size servos you can go that route if you like but I cut some new servo hole adapters and put in some good 90oz mini servos.
ESC with this setup gets plenty of cooling.
This was with the 85 amp ESC so it is a little lighter with the 60.
One of the cool thing about the Outlaw is the anhedral in the wing. It really is like a dart when it flies.
You will need 35-40mm standoffs to get the prop clear.
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