Recent Attachments for prplgoat
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skins out of the shipping tube. at first they look like sign vinyl, but they are not. they are thicker,stronger and the adhesive is super tough.
realized i only need one side marked 1/2" off center....
center marked and 1/2" either side of center.
elevons done the same. you can see a little hatch with the Rx in the center of the wing/fuse
a better look at the horn
longer horn. elevator throw is still small, about 3/16" high rate
race legal motor. the TP 2409 12t
might not be the best spot if it's right in the wing wash, but i think it is just above.
might be a little high
fairing and fit is looking flippin good
nice fit under here
even room for more removal if necessary
definitely will fit a lot larger battery
about 3/4 oz heavier than my light fuse and fin. 1/2 oz more than my med weight. kind of a test lay-up, but not sure if i'll go any lighter. might be able to remove a little more resin.
it is more difficult to pop out of the mold. because of the fairing it has to deform slightly to come out
second half done up.
moving along a little. after some paint and clear i damaged the tail tip a little so it needs a little repair. cluts!
here's the hardware and nose that's included
something like this on the new one. with the elevator behind the fin. the control horn will be longer so i can have more servo resolution.
primered, still needs some filler
cleaned up nice
the old style, the new one will have a molded fin and is more square around the battery area.
that's not a crooked center line. i glued the foam in by halves. the formers are on an arrow shaft.
belt sander to rough out the wing saddle
sanded the foam to the shape
i made plywood formers then glued foam in between
recessed firewall mount with the tower pro
internal mount with the turnigy
this has a tower pro 2409-12 with an apc 7x9 prop
here is a pic of one rtf
here are a couple slope fuses. they weigh 3.1-3.2 oz. the nose cone weighs 1.8 oz. e-fuses weigh 1.5-1.6 oz.
a little heat shrink keeps the wires a little safer.
the motor can be internal with careful placement of the esc and battery
here is one that i've been DS'ing
the nose cone is for the sloper
this guy gave chase for a bit
pumps with joe at cajon
camo at cajon
difficult to keep the wires clear. this heat shrink is working pretty good.
new one. nice and clean. hope it cools enough.
turnigy out front. simple and lots of cooling
prototype. i had to retro on a towerpro motor as i killed the only turnigy i had from too much prop. ugly, but it works and is fast!
one 5 min flight with no trouble, but it was only 30 deg out!
i put the wire in a heat shrink so they may have a little protection and keep them away from the motor
two meter wing on a terminator fuse
42" hill racer slope version
i added glass and 5 min epoxy behind this one.
more epoxy on here than necessary, but it's easy to dremel off to get the servo out
hard to see, but there is the servo block
78 oz balanced and RTF.
a little filler to make it fit.
nice and flush
stringing the wires was way easy with the straws in the wing
diamond wheel is the only way! abrasive would work, but this works nicer
laid out the servos. 5085's for the flaps and 368's for the ailerons
i wrote down where the wire tube was and hit it perfect
triple carbon is too thick to use a triangle file to cut the hinge. almost forgot the flaps are bottom hinged!! dremel here again very careful not to cut the kevlar
i just scratched this line with an exacto
mark and cut the flaps and ailerons. razor knife is not so good here. it wants to wander. i will carefully use my dremel diamond wheel
2 lbs 5.7 oz
still got to clean up the tip. my mylars were a little long and the tips aren't the greatest. the next one will be better.
sanding the LE is a killer. i added 6 strands of 6k tow along the LE so there would be plenty of carbon to sand into...there is plenty...
hard work man!
trimming the TE with a diamond wheel. i used my workbench for a straight edge
not too bad. there are a few dimples, but i am very happy with it. looks like a lot of trimming to come!
looks like a success
out of the bag and ready to peel off the mylar
all weighted down and in the bag
here is the inner plastic and breather
get the right length on the 18" vac tube and i am using a 3 mil drop cloth type plastic for the inner layer and scrap piece of med thin fabric from wallmart for a breather
this is 60 wide reg weave 5.7 oz
tack glued all the balsa and trimmed the TE back 1/4" for a straight TE
i cut a 1/2" wide channel out for end grain balsa for a spar
joining the cores and beds with 3M 77
my cheapo homemade cutter
stick em to a sheet of paper based phenolic. i think it is .090 thickness. about 3/32. it works better than formica!
cut em out and
printing out the airfoil next. it is RG14 at 9%. i think the fatter RG14 may DS better than 7 or 8%
start by cutting out the planform
mark and drill a hole at the rear for a 6/32 bolt
that is nice and tight. perfect fit
open it up a little more
first try and it is not quite down all the way
this angle works well
epoxy the dowel to both skins
make a hole to the upper skin
cut the hole in the fuse. it can be oversize to start.we'll add glass later if needed
cut the dowel so it has long angle to contact the upper skin
fuse on the left is heavy glass 4 oz. for slope/ds.
fuse on the right is lightweight 1.3 oz made for the electric version
looks like a don thuren launch
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