Recent Attachments for Rat Brother 1
The underside has all the color... should be easy to see when I get it way up there.
I kept the topside clean with just the red wingtips.
This was taken before the first maiden. She's got a few battle scars on her now but still looks beautiful screaming past at 3' off the deck!
A thing of beauty.
Not too big, not too small, not too shabby.
There is a crack in the wing and the break at the tail is easily repairable.
Made a template from Ken's drawing for the canopy and went online to find the correct profile and location of the pilot.
Added a little rust color on the stacks and exhaust discharge using artists pastels sealed with Dull Coat.
Looks great even from this angle.
Bottom view. Scoop was glassed with 1 1/2 oz cloth applied with Minwax WB polycrylic clear satin.
Right side view
Left side view
Roll of backdrop paper and display board also helps capture overspray.
Differential throttle diagram.
Black and white pattern was an easy choice.
Painted with SpectraTex.
I love how this turned out!
The underside was an easy choice.
Thanks to this thread I learned a few new tricks!
TufFlight Bouncer underside
TufFlight Bouncer top
Not a pretty picture. Seriously.
Fabricating the 'heads-up' display out of thin ply.
Painted and installed.
Stacks taped for paint.
Lots of room to organize wiring and adjust battery placement.
Clearance between the spinner backplate and cowl is perfect.
To center the cowl I cut an 11mm wide strip of foam from the inside of the Hacker motor box and used it as wedges to get the proper clearance all around.
There is a washer on the back against the firewall, another washer on this side of the firewall, one of the supplied spacers and then a 4mm hex nut. Apply Locktite and firmly tighten down. Attach motor and secure with the 4 self-locking nuts.
All connectors soldered and ready to bench test before installing in fuselage.
This will look amazing against the blue Arizona sky!
Apply Locktite thread locker before securing to fuselage mounted motor box.
Add washers before inserting into motor box.
Du-Bro N. 118 small nylon hinges gave me a nice straight gap between horizontal stabilizer and elevator.
This looks so much better!
Secured with med CA and then finished with a bead of clear silicone all around.
I cut away some of the covering to get a strong bond between the wire and the balsa elevator parts and the bridge.
Finished wire template.
Making a template for the wire reinforcement.
Installed per manual.
Painting tip. I painted each door separately and taped them closed until dry to prevent warping.
Completed assembly. I added a bit of heat-shrink to the steering wire to keep it from slipping out of place after having it push trough on two occasions. Door thread replaced with .46mm bead stringing wire held in place with crimp tube.
Note the notch in the new rail to accommodate the arc of the steering arm. I also removed the centering spring from the retract.
Modified steering arm to fit the E-flite retract. A note of caution. The hole that accepts the existing linkage cracked on mine during my many attempts to get thinks sorted out before I had my steering servo properly mixed. Fixed it with medium CA.
This is where you need to make the cut to fit the existing struts. Notches were cut into the shaft for the steering arm and the strut. The E-flite steering arm is not used.
Topside with new 1/8" plywood rails glued in place. These rails also shim the new retract to the proper height for the existing wheel strut.
Underside view showing the cut out portion to accept the new E-flite retract. The old mounting block has been removed and the rails strengthened with strips of 1/8" plywood.
Test fit of the new retract. Note that I have started to paint the wheel bay the same color as the wheel wing pockets (Hippo Grey).
Hatch cut out showing new mounting bay. Because the new retract is larger (longer) the slop will have to be cut out on the left side to allow the new retract to fit.
Topside with outline of access hatch that will be cut out to mount the new E-flite retract.
Underside with stock retract removed. The mounting block on the steering servo side will need to be removed to clear the E-flite steering arm.
E-flite retract 72 g
Stock retract 38g
The E-flite retract looks huge compared to the stock retract.
Finished install with wheel wells painted Hippo Grey by Ceramcoat from Michael's.
The pin on the existing strut need to be shortened by 1/4" and a flat spot ground in to fit the E-flight retract.
Note new hole locations.
The internal spar had to be ground down slightly with a Dremel to get a bit more clearance. Thin CA added to strengthen spar.
The holes on the E-flite retract does not match existing hole location. Round toothpicks sanded down, inserted and secured with thin CA.
Clip off the white cable tie to get a bit more bottom clearance.
Pocket requires lengthening opening about 1/4" to accommodate E-flite retract.
Small washer from hardware kit on either side of control horn.
Brass inserts should be installed flat side to mounting surface.
Pete's Pilots look super detailed, complete with separate masks. I'll modify the head orientation on the rear pilot so they don't look like twins.
Looks like and easy out, easy in swap. Though I'm told the nose wheel retract will take a little extra modification.
This thing is huge! That's what she said.
All accounted for and ready to go. And yes, I do have the servo extensions and a receiver.
Revised motor mount. Note battery relocation below right wing opposite ESC for better balance.
Tail wheel fix.
Tail Wheel fix.
Bottom view. Note the 'dumpster dive' strapping tape on the wing tips to avoid landing scuffs.
Top view. My fist attempt at airbrushing in over 10 years, and then it was nothing this large.
Another CF insert to straighten and stiffen the horizontal stabilizer.
3 Robart #305 hinges and a piece of CF to take the warp out of the aileron.
Did somebody say bulletproof?
All RCGroups content copyright © 1996 - 2015 by RCGroups.com.
Terms of Service
Mark Forums Read
Back to Top