Recent Attachments for RiBell
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Flap servo. Finally installed for the last time.
Every adjustment the servo and linkage had to come out. Clears the wing tube and won't contact the top skin.
To go in here to attach the servo arm
Had to make a long screwdriver
L/H wing nacelle has a curve
R/H wing nacelle looks OK
distance from wing root
Distance from wing root confirms it.
Hacked off behind the former
Looks a lot better
Rotary drive shaft is put in place at 50 degrees to the hinge line
Servo stuck to the shaft with the coupler
Add a servo rail
fasten the servo to it
Add the other servo rail now that the servo position is known
Access hatch supports
ESC on a stick. Here's hoping that if I ever need to get to it. The holes in the firewall will be enough access.
And I've got a tip float that is ready for glassing the top
An hour or so of sanding
All planked up and slathered with filler
Duct tape holding the sheeting in place against the nose former while the glue sets
all taped and pinned together waiting for glue to dry
Couple of bare wings framed up waiting for sheeting.
Fin sheeting with a square hole to poke the leading edge into place. The rear sheeting was added after stabilizer rear spar was added.
Making a template to sheet the vertical fin
soaking tip float balsa sides for bending
sides in a couple glasses of water and the keel is dry
circled the spot
Added an arrow to the part I'm referring too
There is a definitely a gap between the wing panels.
Shaped it to the nose profile
Then added another block as far forward as possible under the hatch
Can't get a lump of lead any farther forward.
With booms a pod and obstacles blocking. the visual cues to see if it is hanging level are a bit harder to discern. The forward part of the pod seemed like a good place for a level
In this picture I'm using a forward and aft rope. The aft one supporting both booms and the forward one on the fuselage pod
Here I've got a left and right rope outboard of the booms. The plum bob should be pointing to the C/G?
Gear leg installed.
An axle sized piece of wire through both gear legs so that both wheel point the same direction.
The ever present rope holding it up as the bench just isn't big enough. as throttle linkage get fitted.
Sporting nose art for the first time
Anytime the nose of the airplane is away from the bench. Need to hold it up as the bench is not deep enough.
Having to continuously find ne ways to hold the airplane
Under the ever watchful eye
5 rolls of silver/ All that's left
The big chunk covered
You know that it's a big beast when you can sit on a stool in the middle of the airplane. While filling and sanding bench dings.
Some filler at the front to fair the wing cover/fairing. Sand it out in the morning and more covering.
OK just shoved it to the edges
Cleaned a spot on the bench
Trying to avoid any more of these
Horary the wheel does fit. After the top fairing was installed
Starting to add some colour to the booms
Half way there
This is the R/H boom with all the epoxy filler filed and sanded down.
Still waiting for the slop on the other boom to cure
Yah my bench is a mess.
Starting with the Ziroli parts, being wider than the boom.
The back stiffener was cut off and they were wrapped around a smaller former.
This excess was cut off
With the Ziroli parts. trimmed, and the cowls from the kit. It passes for a P-38
Once the engines are mounted. The wing covers can get attached. If I ever need access to the Rx or fuel tank I'll cut an access panel.
This is the one that the balsa side was completely gone.
glass cloth for the booms
first side done and toilet papered
A clevis installed on the control horn. A solder on screwed into the pushrod and one screwed into the adjustable clevis. A short piece of wire was bent up to connect the two.
Due to the very tight area. I thought I would try something new. With the servo in neutral and the pushrod connected.
The first control rod completed
Pull it out solder it up and installed. The left rudder and elevator pushrods completed.
And the bottom of the boom planked. ready for shaping.
The need to fit behind the retract air tank
Servos in place with the stringer glued back in
A rudder and elevator servo on the rails
Top stringer removed to get them in
They are buried in the back of the boom. For now they will be buried. I'll cut a access hatch if the ever need to get accessed
Attaching the tail
Strip planking the bottom of the boom
Here is the wing leaning against the wall in the house
Holding the wing at arms length with the sun directly behind the wing panel.
For a size referance. The bottom of the 2x4 holding the next shelf is 28" above the floor. The tail of the Mini Stick can be seen under the cabin and in the forground is a Sig Spacewalker 1/3 scale.
First off The Ziroli glass parts that I ordered are about 10% to big. I ordered them In hopes that I might be able trim them to work.
Cutting the rear stiffener off
Replacing the rear stiffener with a former. It looks promising that they will work.
Checking the brake valve location
After gluing in a support, and mounting it.
The servo arm will push the air valve button. Brakes applied.
Looking down from the top. The retract valve servo and the brake servo are installed. Once my air system fill valves and press gauges show up I'll be able to finish the air installation.
Desided to put the throttle servos between the landing gear rails. You can see the back end of the NyRod for the throttle linkage
Here is my greatest epiphany yet. I think Iíve got my steering solved if it works. The ball link is bolted to my tiller with a stand off. Made from a brass tube and a carbon fibre tube inside.
After the throttle linkage became figured out the gas tanks could go in
This is the right hand nacelle. The inboard retract rail has another rail attached to the bottom to move the retract unit farther away from the rear spar. Still needs to have the outboard rail removed.
Here is the left hand inboard mounting rail with a notch for the trunnion bolt that sticks beyond the the frame rail
With the retract mounted here the wheel will be just forward of the aft end of the landing gear bay
Here's the final position. The actuating cylinder is just below the rear spar.
here are the two basswood suports to secure the bottom of the firewall and suport the batteries
So the bottom of the nacelle was refitted. and new fuel tank floors were installed.
Then the batteries would be on bolt in boards like this. (Solant battery)
This was going to be my battery tray. It would be glued to the suports and firewall
While I was fitting the tray into the nacelle. It became obvious that the tray and batteries were going to block all airflow. Dispersing out through the wing's lighting holes didn't seem like that good of an idea
While waiting for engines to show up I built a bit of airplane parking; In an area of the basement that we never seem to use. So when it comes time to go flying I don't have to dig out the airplane because they were being used as a shelf. The 1/2 wall to
A pair of G-26 gas engines should do OK
OK so it's glassed and going to remove this as a hatch.
After opening up the bottom and removing all the fuel tank supports. And a piece of the wing
Here's another view. It's looking like the bottom that has been removed will need to be replaced as it looks like it's going to carry a fair bit of the structural loads
So here's the battery tray plan. A couple of basswood backbones to support the battery weight. and they will tie the bottom of the firewall to the main wing spar. A piece of lite ply will be used to create the notched leading edge that is inside the nacel
The little carbon fibre tiller bar made from the sheet I made up yesterday
The nose gear retracted, the Kevlar string is inside the collapsed springs. Some strip sheeting added to close out the nose wheel well.
Turns out that the springs were too soft and wouldn't steer the nose wheel. So I passed a Kevlar thread down the center of the spring.
Starting with the springs I found at the local hardware store. Add a short cable extension so as not to interfere with the gear assembly.
Wax paper removed. Revealing a small sheet of carbon fibre from which to make my steering tiller.
Carbon fibre tape 1" wide
All stacked up on the wax paper on top of the glass
My hi tech high ton press (OK it just a couple sheets of glass clamped together untill the epoxy cures)
Need to fill in the missing sheeting. The bag of shrapnel might even have the piece
Bottom. Sitting next to the fuselage with the new tubes aligning the sockets in the wing.
Here is the first of the markings from Tim.
Starting here the hanger rash shows with the top of the left fin broken off.
As you can see it covered the rudder hinge?
The other end where the control linkage was set to exit.
Half a dozen pieces of covering so far.
Pinned the elevator hinges.
Guess what the sab is wider than a roll of Monokote. Not so bad it's on the bottom where the extra little piece isn't going to be too visable. Also you can see the large Sullivan outer control linkage
Don't know why the control horns were modified from holes to slots
I don't know what was supost to happen here
Some holes had been hogged out. Figured might as well just use them
14 pieces of Monokote later the tail is covered. Covering this with the rest of the airplane attached would not be fun. The slivers that aren't covered I'm hoping to get with the tail end of the boom covering
Outer wing panels covered.
Here's the manufactures pic. The redarrows are pointing to the steering collar. The bits sticking out are Du-bro rigging couplers.
Notr the red arrow pointing to the steering collar.
This is the pin on top of the strut that keeps the strut from falling out.
The steering collar; with a pair of 4/40 bolt into it. Note the one on the right of the picture with the black arrow contacts the landing gear frame.
With two equal lenth bolts in the steering collar the gear will not retract.
OK it will retract. But it turns about 45 deg. And the wheel well isn't large enough for a turned wheel.
Before the wheel well tub was added to the bottom of the wing. The nose gear tire just won't go far enough up to be inside the gear bay and have a door close.
After removing the existing landing gear rails, and hacking out most of a fuselage former. I could place the retract in the nose and it would rest on the fusealge crutch.
A quick wrap of balsa around a roll of tape to make a nose wheel tire tub.
Starting with a 4 1/2" wheel that I had. First thing that I noticed is that it wouldn't fit into the nose gear wheel well.
Fitting the position of a mounting rail.
Setting a pair of maple rails on the bottom of the fuselage crutch looks OK for how much of the strut was below the fuselage.
The 4 1/2" tire just touches as it enters the wheel well. So my 4" wheel will fit without any issues. (I hope)
Need to add some tri stock between the mounting rail and the crutch.
Rails are just tack glued in place right now.
Flipper over on the bench. Just need to figure out how to steer it.
Holes for hinge blocks in the trailing edge of the wing
Rear spar replaced where it was cut out. And sheeting has since been replaced
This hole has been cut into the aileron to be able to put a block inside for the hinge to glue to.
Another one of the hinge blocks this one also holding the control horn
I'm lacking in computer skills to do a nice job on the picture.
The lower rear spar replaced. along with some sliver ribs to support the upper skin. Along with a 1/32 ply sheeting in here the trailing edge will be a lot stronger than a sheet of 3/32 balsa just hanging out there
The Fowler flap with hinges attached to a 1/8x2 basswood rear spar replacement. While this would probably work I think this should have been built into the wing at initial construction.
Simple split flap mock-up. To prove that I'll be able to get 30-45 degrees of deflection with the linkages completely inside the wing
Robart hinges. Flap movement is limited by the length of the slots in the white plastic parts.
OK: here I've glued the flap hinge mounts to a piece of 1/8" basswood. That will replace the lower wing skin.
The Hacker soldiers
First off the rear anti-rotational dowel is in the way for the flaps. The one on the right is the new one being fitted before the smaller one on the left gets cut off
The Robart flap hinges preped as per the Robart instrutions.
Hinges fitted to the flap segment
The lower skin and ribs cut away to make room for the flap, in the retracted position
Now cut into the lower skin.
One yard of 0.5 oz carbon fibre tissue
The first wing panel glassed the carbon tissue is under the 0.5 oz glass cloth. I was going to go with 2 layers. While squeegeeing the excess epoxy away. I lifted the cloth and removed the 1" wide tow as it wasn't playing nice.
The JC Super props only use one pin. Dag mentioned that they have discontinued them to to the fact that they were coming apart
This is the coming soon Xoar prop that I inquired about. Kinda a nice scale profile. When I inquired about a pair of these counter rotating in22x12. It was going to be a custom job. @ $300 a pair plus shipping and job set up. I don't need custom props tha
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