Recent Attachments for schrederman
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I always tape my stab leading edges, and the small piece stayed with the model.
I'm wondering if the line did this somehow...
... and bottom. This panel was poor when I got it. I guess the layup was dry, but I couldn't get it on or off the main panel without cracking it... It's no wonder that the minor crack up devastated it... The model actually hit on the other tip, first.
Delaminations near joiner area, on top...
Crease was injected with ca some time ago...
Left tip panel is bunged up pretty bad. Has a repaired crease, and delaminations in the skin...
Right tip panel has one crease... Tips set up for Atx 809 Servos.
Center set up for MKS Ds6125 Servos (the large ones). These flaps are large, hence the larger servos.
Center panel undamaged...
Nosecone has slight cosmetic damage...
Location of fuselage break...
Stab undamaged... These are the latest tails.
Fin/rudder in good shape...
Maybe next weekend...
Can't wait to have the 4.0 flying...
This is an original design RES model with 153" wingspan. The Windfree is shown for size reference, and because I like Windfrees. It has a 7037 airfoil,and winglets. They are set up like the ones on full scale gliders, and seemed to be effective in pr
I built this from a short kit from Dream Catcher Hobbies. I always liked Grand Esprits when I was flying in the '70s but never built one. This model satisfied those urges. It was crashed by a severe lapse in judgement, but is almost ready to fly again.
This is the open class and original Legionair. Wen I built this one, I opted for strong launch capabilities. The aluminum spar was replaced with a CF/balsa version and the joiner was upsized and made of 4130 steel tube. A touch heavier than the original,
Spectator kicked left tip when brand new (SWC 2012)
Minor damage to left tip panel
Servos fit very well
PC-board material used for fuselage-mounted servos
Tails installed correctly
Easy to see
Almost new condition
With my 128" Hawk for comparison...
I can't believe this one is gone... what a shame.
I need to prevent this...
Look Ma! No Arc!
Aftermath of flutter...DOH!!!
Only homebuilt on the field!
in the lineup with the Xplorer
NOT my usual way of setting up a new model....
Like I said... get a bigger one!
Bunk fulla toys
Just like the moldies... only better... because you shape them to your taste.
After her maiden and another 3 flights... my Tx battery was dying, and it was time for Jambalaya! And... I didn't have to take it apart...
Getting a touch of up added to the clevis...
Doesn't take long...
Ready to go... almost!
Duet with 2000 mah Eneloop pack...
Spoiler fit... who needs adjustments?
Hooked up and in open position.
Fixture in place.
The hookup in the wing is apparent through the covering.
A closer look reveals the solder has traveled the length of the tube and a solid connection is made.
1/16" copper tubing silver-soldered to the ends of the cables.
Servo and fixture ready...
...the color scheme...
...from any angle...
Looks pretty good...
Wing's covered, but needs spoilers cut in and some trim...
With most of the corners sanded off, her aesthetic beauty is beginning to show...
I made a nestle for the trailing edge to fit into.
Canopy rough sanded...
Tapered and hinged... ready to cover...
In order to be sure absolutely sure about how straight it is, I'll join the stab and fin permanently and then jig everything up to check for straight, and decalage...
Sanded and hinged, but not attached, yet...
Pretty straight to start with, but it does need a bit of checking and tweeking...
Here's one of the pieces of 1/16" copper tube slipped over the 1/2A U-control cable. I won't solder it on until the rest of the model is finished.
...and gets cut off about 1/8" past the end of the connector hole.
...and goes through here...
... and comes out here...
Wire in the tube... goes in here...
Finished servo connector...
Drill 1/16" hole down the center jount...
Ready for the drill press...
Standard E-Z connector, and modified version...
at the spoiler horn...
The battery id 4 Sanyo Eneloops.... 2,00 mAh... a bit overkill, but that's what I have on hand, right now...
This little piece of tubing is the bushing for the cables to come through. The slant cut makes it easier to get the ends through when installing the wing.
Old servo arms work well, here.
Tightly fit for now. I'll sand for clearance before I cover the wing.
Another shop... make sure they fit well. This is a high stress area in a bad landing or... Heaven forbid... a crash...
Wing gussets cut and shaped before gluing.
Preliminary tip shaping is done.
Then it gets marked and cut on the jig saw, and rough sanded.
Canopy block is separated on a table saw before anything else happens. That gives a perfect fit where the top nose block and the canopy meet.
... this... :D
This is the first time I've seen tip blocks like this... Nice Mark! I like this idea.
The spoilers will be totally straight forward... sorta... I'll show a lot of detail when I install them.
There were 4 plywood ribs that looked like they were intended to sandwich the balsa ribs in the poly joint. They weren't on the plans... see text...
HS-85MGs will be used for the primary flight controls. The HS 81 will fit about where it is for the spoilers, and a Castle, Postage-Stamp 4 channel receiver will sit right beside it in foam...
Now... where are those tip panels???? DOH!!!!
OOPS... this picture doesn't belong here but I'm lazy, so it stays...
Gee... it's starting to look like a model sailplane!
and then cut it apart... Note the 1/16" shims front, center, and back for proper alignment...
and check again... I added the dowell in the tip panel so the main would not be any longer. Some guys have small vehicles, and too long is... too long! Set at the proper angle and allow to cure...
Check twice... Make sure the epoxy is not on the face of the spars or the tube. The aft ply joiner web needs to fit flat.
The tube needs to be flat against the forward plywood web on both sides of the joint. The epoxy needs to gel before you set it flat, but don't wait too long.
And the fit is good!
The ribs are indexed perfectly with the joiner tube and a 3/16" drill bit. Don't leave them in or the glue will get them!
It doesn't take much epoxy/milled galss to attach the tube very well. A touch from the heat gun makes it penetrate and smooth out.
This will be the elevator. I always build my models with the rudder on the left so if I forgot to change models, the setup would be the same. My SD-10-G now takes care of that for me...
Supports are attached with CA after being slotted for the tube. The slot helps keep the tube and the block in perfect position.
You can see how shallow the exit is. If it's not, the cf will bind in the nylon tube.
The slot for the exit is actually about 2" long. I use good 30-minute epoxy and milled fiberglass.
It's still straight... disregard the white abhorition in the background...
And from the bottom...
Completed tow hook...
The wing fits nicely...
and from the bottom...
Tow hook attachemnt area...
I drilled my nose block with a 3/4 forsner bit about 1/2" deep for weight. Note triangle reinforcement epoxied in for strength, (Not on plans).
A little out of sequence.. nose block glued and starting to fit push rods.
Gee... it all fits!
Trial fit everything.
It gets skinny back at the back of the fuselage. I taper my triangle stock so it will all fit. I taler it on the angle side with a jack plane abd a sanding block.
Sides and top and bottom ready to join... almost.
Checking triangel stock fit... it's good!
Again... be sure to make a left and a right!
This jig piece is slid in under the sheeting and gives a nice, tight bond to the ribs... (important!)
Cut along the ruler and slide the resulting piece up under each rib.
Looking more and more like... Oh wait... Where's the rest of the wang!?!?
Don't sand to a the radius until the plywood ribs are glued on and dry. They will act as a guide.
Lotsa tape! I use polyurethane glue here because the glue sands like balsa, and the glue line dissapears. In dry areas like mine, I use a wet paper towell on one side of the leading edge material, and VERY LITTLE glue...
Start with a long sanding block and sand until the ribs just start to lose their burned appearance.
Yep... it fits pretty good.
Lower-center sheeting. Make it fit. Lots of stress in this area...
Yet more epoxy. These butt joints need to be strong!
Epoxy in the center section... and that fat center rib has a 5-degree bevel on each side...
And try to avoid chipping your spar caps... grrrr!
Trial fit EVERYTHING!
No gaps... no slop... Enjoy!
Test fit often... you can take more off, but you can't put it back
It's best to remove the material from the bottom BEFORE gluing to the ribs
Normal trailing edge stock slotted for the ribs
And... finally for today... here's 2 meters of wing.
This rib, in the center section, needs to be shimmed for proper alignment because the wing is sheeted top and bottom in this area.
Here, the angle is evident. The rib is perpindicular to the board.
One end of the plywood web has a slight angle to allow for the dihedral break. Make sure you get it right!
Right tip showing fit of the shear bebs
Right main with clamps on the forward joiner box web... more about this in the next segment
Left tip during construction
Left main panel ready for trailing egde
And the result is a good, accurate part.
After marking, I cut them on the jigsaw, and clean them up with a fine, flat rasp.
The template can be used for either side, but make sure to make a Left and a Right... Mine is marked so I can use ir correctly.
Notch is marked withh an Exacto knife
Nice hardware... love that tow hook!
Spruce and some bass...
Lotsa laser-cut parts... nice!
Some of the parts...
Nice set of plans.
Again... I can see it...
Nice and light...
I can see it!
On the bench
Bottom wing rack is portable... top rack for more permanent storage.
My other pics didn't come out too good... Building table is behind the shelf unit.
Other pics were in the previous ads...
because it is...
Looks like it's outside...
upper skin crease/crack
hole drilled for injecting epoxy/milled glass
Very hard to see with my camera
Yep... it's BIG
At Mid South in '01 or '02... Rhome, Ga.
Yep... the big white and RED one...
Takin' shape. It's gonna be finished sooner than later... if work doesn't eat me...
Look ma... no actuator arc!
Som sanding first, and then the leading-edge sheeting and fairing ribs
DOn't look now, but your carbon is showing...
a little lightweight spackle never hurts...
Tapers from 3/8 thick at the base to 3/16 at the top...
Not all receivers pictured go with it...
Very doable... End view of the Journey center panel ready to sand.
Tip panels ready for tips and finish sanding...
Center panel ready for finish sanding...
Left intermediate panel... DOH!
Right intermediate panel with webs and spars glued...
New fuselage has red canopy. It was new in this pic
No broken switches - never dropped or abused
Some receivers not shown because they're in my gliders
Longer tail moment evident on New Hawk in this shot. Too lazy to pull Dee Dee's car out for now, so no side shots yet...
Wing roots even in both pics Slightly longer nose evident on the Sapphire.
New fuse has red canopy
Higher than it looks... He has a good lens...
I was getting 50 to 75 feet in each turn!
Aluminum tubing cur at an angle and drilled is the core of this system.
Young man, can you really throw that thang that hard?
About off the line.
It's really high... he has a long lens..
Nice shots by Gary Jones
153" RES... winglets added a few weeks after maiden. They made a difference especially in thermal turns.
First winglets... this one would stand on the wing tip with nary a fall-out...
Winglets added after destroying a wing tip in a crash... Made a BIG difference.
Trans. Red and Trans. Yellow... Gets my vote... a lot!
And the Journey...
Me and my toys will fit into this, nicely...
And with the tow plane
Even an old decrepit fat guy can do it! Or, a young handsome guy like this one...
These are effective...
Who's THIS skinny guy?
Yep, that's an E-K Ranger, 3-channel radio
Designed by... for a kit that never happened... in 1976
Yep, made by Viking models...
More tail plans
And rib patterns
Or a foam wing (includes template drawings)
Plans for a wood wing
Will make a nice miodel
Would be lighter without all that balsa dust
Nice light fuselage
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