Recent Attachments for AlexanderB
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Almost the same thing happened to my 1/4 J-3. It was just the tire that sprung from the hub on a touch down.
In the old Atlantic livery the emergency exits were pretty clearly visible.
here is the G-APSA DC-6A together with the Red Bull DC-6B at Berlin Tempelhof
Longerons and stations. That gives a pretty clear picture. On the plating diagram it was clearly seen that the lower part of the window is at longeron 17.
Footrests are milled from 10mm Balsa and have a 0.8mm Fiber Glass frame. I made a hole in the fuse to fit it in. Looks amazing!
... and assemble
... and easy to transport ...
How nice she is...
Tank gauge from the pilots view :-)
It does work. I wonder how accurate this will be :)
gluing it under pressure
This part was sanded on the bench drill
Much Better! It is a little bit on the thick side but it has to cover the big nut!
This is nice and standard ... but... somewhat ugly
And this is the result after applying clear paint
Here we go.
Speedometer. Cool thing. I happened to find a construction manual of the moth with a lot of detail drawings including this one.
This is how the spinner looks on a lot of Gipsy Moths
Here we go!
The result is very pleasing.
Plain rudder looks OK, but ... well.
The top two 'ribs' are already covered. I glued the two ends of the cardboard with less than a drop of CA.
Cut 2mm cardboard stripes and 8mm Orastick stripes.
Started planning the design as usual with Adobe Illustrator
Compared to my 1:200 die cast model.
And Ironing to the V-Stab. I placed the entire Eagle on the stab with the mounted rudder and cut the Eagle after that
Cutting the Eagle with a scalpel worked quite well.
Well, it starts looking good!
First the rudder.
See the static dischargers
do the slot
take away the screw head
The rod will be the hinge pin and secured with the screw that is glued (CA) to the carbon rod
Here you can see the result compared to a dime (which is still smaller than a European Cent)
Prepared a M3 x 10 mm aluminum screw by drilling a 1.9mm hole to fit the 2mm carbon rod in and cut away the screw head. Then I used my Dremel with a cutting disc to cut a slot for the screwdriver
Panel lines and Trim Tabs as well as some access hatched added
44g now after covering.
... and finally the rest. The tabs will be added using Decals
...then the tip...
First I covered the LE of the elevator...
Rudder 39h including Trim Tab servo
Elevator start with 40g including balance weight
Ready to apply grain filler
10.8 g per elevator
Screwing in the threaded rod as a counter balance
Test fitting a counter balance.
The elevator pivots down if not balanced.
I used a 1.5mm stripe of plywood as a kind of washer so that the thin aluminum does not get damaged when fastening the screws. Besides that the holes in the aluminum are significantly larger so that I can adjust the door.
Some additional sanding is necessary of course.
It fits. Some additional sanding is necessary of course.
test fitting the cargo door with the hinge. This took quite some attempts until it worked out as expected.
preparing the fuselage to fit the hinge
Glueing the piano hinge with Epoxy to the cargo door
Cool three bladed prop
Here's where the battery sits.
CG at about 75mm
Three bladed Varioprop propeller plus spinner from H9
This is how I located the battery temporarily (not flight ready yet).
Throw of my flap: 70mm. With Dual rate I can go to 80mm!
29g for the light system seems to be fine
test fitting the assembly.
Gluing the assembly
On top of this come the 1000mA strobes
Two 100mA LED as Aft Navlight and left or right navligft
If you look closely you can see that it is a piano hinge!
A perfect 150mm piano hinge for the main cargo door.
This is one half. The next has yet to come
One by one.
Now the 1mm piano wire (hinge line) comes in.
then some more. Patience is asked for!
Here we go one by one. First a little bit...
Preparing to bend the latched with a rounded 1mm piece of aluminum sheet.
The master at work.
After some adjustments he started to punch a latch every 3mm. The with of the tool is 3.1mm so there is 1mm play later.
This is the punching tool he did himself.
The inner two connectors are for the fuselage and the outer ones will be for the wing connection.
New cable in the aft fuselage
PCB for the MPX connector to allow easy and safe soldering of the cables.
Old cable connector between the fuselage halves.
Different colored MPX connectors
Flap fully deployed and servo arm at 0° which means almost nothing the servo has to do to hold the position.
Here you can see the new installation. Flap is retracted and servo arm is 180°
You can also see the new big access hatch which will be covered by the lower nacelle.
Old installation. Note: the servo screw was not missing. I already removed it and then decided to take a picture.
The new Jeti DS-16 Tx
This is what my friend JB did for me. The doors are not yet fixed in any way. I didn't find the time. But doesn't that look amazingly great?!
This is how I intended to do it. But I wasn't sure how to attach the doors, i.e. what kind of hinges to use.
This is how it looks on the full scale plane
Tried 0.4mm birch ply which I watered for quite a while. But it's still hard to get it right. Does not want to wrap around the concave / convex shape
Test-Fitting. Looking good.
It fits so well you barely need glue. I used CA on this
A 'lower inner nacelle kit'
This is how I try to figure out how I have to do it: drawing with Adobe Illustrator on one screen, original photos on the other...
This is the new mechanism. This is easier to glue in and is more simple at the same time.
Doors close pretty well. I saw worse doors on models so I keep it as it is.
Here you can see the lever of the mechanism that gets pushed by the folded drag link.
The new mechanism looks less flimsy and gives a better feeling when merely looking at it.
I was not really aware that the nacelle is twisted by about 7°. I thought that I had taken care of the hinge points of the doors but ... oh well ... missed that. But this is how it is now.
If I load the spring like this it works even with some friction in the entire system. I already prepared the ball links in a way that they move as nicely as possible using some pliers.
You can clearly see how much the mechanism is out of center. If I don't do that the foldable draglink won't hit the lever centered and thus jam the entire mechanim preventing the landing gear from deploying.
Open gear doors.
The doors close pretty well. The tiny gap up front will hopefully close when the linkage is in place and they are pulled close.
The new lever with much improved stability due to the fork design.
This is how it is supposed to be. Proir to glueing
This is the mounting piece. I milled some pockets where I can slide in the hinges.
Due to the bulging the rim is not even. I sanded it in place. The picture shows it prior to sanding
Gear door prior to removing the jig.
To open the door very little movment of the main strut is necessary. The wheels are well clear of the doors every time.
Opening mechanism next to a 5 Euro-Cent coin.
First approach to get the opening mechanism in place.
First prototype of the door. I need to add some material which I can trim later.
The 1.5mm fiberglass frame is very rigid and brings the aluminum door in its final shape.
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