Hi guys,

Lets start a thread for modding the Feigao/Turnigy 6A ESC for 1s.

First thing I need to know is where to get the 3kohm or 1.85kohm DSM resistor?

Updated pics, advice and your experience doing the mod is welcome.

Edit: It looks like we will also be discussing the modification of this ESC to use the Flea firmware so a converter would not be needed to use it with the "brushed motor" 4in1's!

Thanks,
Jay

How about this one: 0805 SMD Thin Film Chip Resistors 1/10watts 3Kohms .1% 0.001

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....ampaign=mouser First one on the list.

Is this even the correct type of resistor I need?

Does anyone have the correct resistor they could just sell me?

Thanks,
Jay

Does anyone know who manufacturer of the turnigy/feiago 6a esc is?

Jay,
You might also want to check digikey. I forgot the component size of these esc but I think it is 2 x 2 mm.

Jared

I have some contacts in china. I can try and find out. If anyone else knows please chime in!

I will check digikey. Anyone else know where to get these tiny resistors?

Thanks,
Jay

In a german forum I published my turnigy software versions a while ago.



Because they are difficult to find, I collected the files on an extra website:
http://freenet-homepage.de/alex_konz..._6a/blc_6a.htm

There is also the source for the Flea with the ATmega8L, the same AVR, that is placed on the turnigy 6a.

BTW: the PPM-version is fast responsive and can handle an input update near to 500Hz.

cul
quax

The proper size for the resistors used on the turnigy 6 amp ESC is an 0402 - they make an 0805 sized part look big! You can easily tack on something larger though.
The best mod is going to be reflashing the ESC with Quax's software. You won't have LVC but you'll have an ESC that is insanely awesome at driving the small outrunner motors. If you use it for tail control you don't want LVC anyways.

Digikey and/or Mouser have all of the parts you want.

In terms of reprogramming the Atmel on the ESC the 6 contacts at the end of the pcb opposite the motor connections are used for programming. It was very nice of them to leave these points there. There are simple hardware solutions and free software for reprogramming Atmels all over the net. If you're going to be doing quite a few though invest in the original Atmel USB programming interface - its very nice and is only 34 dollars - http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...e=ATAVRISP2-ND

I ordered 10 of these from digikey: RR08P3.0KDCT-ND, RES 3.0K OHM 1/16W .5% 0603 SMD.

It's 1608 case type (?) 1.6mm x .8mm (?)

Does this look like it will work?

All this info coming in for modding this ESC is AWESOME!

Thanks guys,
Jay

I just connected an Atmel programmer to one of the Turnigy ESCs and flashed in Quax's software. Took me a few minutes to get it going as I had assumed it used the same clock rate as the Flea (8 Mhz) but it seems it uses 4 Mhz. So far its working and controlling a motor just fine - seems the same as my Mega8l MCU fleas.

The fuse bit diagram and source indicate it should run at 8Mhz, not sure why it only works at 4Mhz. Hopefully Quax can answer this for us. Running at 4Mhz will make it more stable at lower voltage but means it only has half the processing power which may be a problem with outrunners at high RPMs.

GITech - the resistors you selected will work fine. In the future though you can select a much cheaper part. As was already mentioned if you want to use Quax's patched Flea firmware there is no need to change the resistors. Just remove/bypass the regulator for 1S operation.

Awesome! That's what I thought with the new firmware. Simply jumping would be easier and cheeper than piggybacking resistors.

Would a 2s version be possible by leaving the regulator in as is?

I would not need a conveter then either correct. (?)

Once the code and mod methods are ready I would like to either do it to mine or buy a "finished" version.

Thank you,
Jay

Originally Posted by GITech

Awesome! That's what I thought with the new firmware. Simply jumping would be easier and cheeper than piggybacking resistors.

Would a 2s version be possible by leaving the regulator in as is?

I would not need a conveter then either correct. (?)

Once the code and mod methods are ready I would like to either do it to mine or buy a "finished" version.

Thank you,
Jay

If I am not mistaken, th code Quax gave us and the ESC that Steve reprogrammed with, will only work with a regular receiver not a 4-1 like the Walkera.

To have it work, one should go trough a rework of the turnigy PCB, and Quax code to adapt to the new pin layout..

Feel free to correct me Quax and Steve.

Originally Posted by blackmoon

If I am not mistaken, th code Quax gave us and the ESC that Steve reprogrammed with, will only work with a regular receiver not a 4-1 like the Walkera.

To have it work, one should go trough a rework of the turnigy PCB, and Quax code to adapt to the new pin layout..

Feel free to correct me Quax and Steve.

Yes that is correct blackmoon, this is why quax has been postng his code. I have been contacting him for his sf and he so kindly posted a link a few threads we have here. I wanted to work on a PWM version. I have flea code from DavidT for the turnigy esc also.

For the mod to run PWM flea code, the ICP pin needs to be disconnected from its current location and the wire rerouted to an open pin(on the same port I would imagine), then the PWM input will be connected to the ICP pin and the necessary changes to the software to reflect the new output pin. I am waiting on the include file for the PWM version to look over the port assignments.

On another note, I read if you re-flash the turnigy with the flea code it is no longer safe to run 3s. 2s is fine with the regulator still there and 1s without the regulator.

Jared

Sounds like you are making progress!

Yes, we are looking to make this 6A ESC PWM input compatible, so a separate converter will not be needed with "brushed motor" 4in1's.

And it sounds like it will be versatile, being that there can be a 1s and a 2s version!

Awesome,
Jay

Just to clarify the ESC will be good for 1S or 2S with Flea firmware but not both at the same time. To get the ESC to work on 1S the regulator must be bypassed which means you can't run 2S.
I don't know how well it will work on 2S with Flea firmware, ideally the firmware should probably have some changes made for 2S operation. with 1S you need quite a bit of start power and a high minimum drive, thats not the case with 2S. It will work but it may be a pretty fast startup when using 2S.

The factory Turnigy firmware didn't work very well on 1S because of this, the firmware wasn't designed to be able to start a motor on 1S and really needed a higher start power.

btw, if you program in flea firmware you can't go back to Turnigy firmware - remember that!

OK, having looked at the Turnigy ESC in more detail it is possible to convert it for PWM input with only a few hardware changes.
It should even be possible with no cutting of any traces.
However an 0402 sized resistor will need to be removed and its tucked in between a bunch of other 0402 sized parts.

If R27 is removed one of the pads will give access to the ICP pin. The other pad will need to have a wire installed that will run to a replacement 100 ohm resistor that will need to be attached to another pin on portB.
There are lots of unused connections on portB - there are even nice and easy to solder to points as the programming contacts happen to use portB. I don't think using the programming contact pins is a smart move though as a fet will be turned on/off during programming if we use one of those and you wouldn't be able to leave a programmer connected during development.
There are still two unused portb pins - pins 7 and 8. Its probably easiest to use pin 8 as its on the edge of the CPU.
Now to look at the software to see what needs changing.

Originally Posted by TheSteve

OK, having looked at the Turnigy ESC in more detail it is possible to convert it for PWM input with only a few hardware changes.
It should even be possible with no cutting of any traces.
However an 0402 sized resistor will need to be removed and its tucked in between a bunch of other 0402 sized parts.

If R27 is removed one of the pads will give access to the ICP pin. The other pad will need to have a wire installed that will run to a replacement 100 ohm resistor that will need to be attached to another pin on portB.
There are lots of unused connections on portB - there are even nice and easy to solder to points as the programming contacts happen to use portB. I don't think using the programming contact pins is a smart move though as a fet will be turned on/off during programming if we use one of those and you wouldn't be able to leave a programmer connected during development.
There are still two unused portb pins - pins 7 and 8. Its probably easiest to use pin 8 as its on the edge of the CPU.
Now to look at the software to see what needs changing.

Exactly what I posted here