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Old Feb 25, 2009, 05:49 AM
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Marysville, WA
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Medium CA works great, but becomes very brittle and can crumble and fail if used in places that flex or vibrate a lot. In those places I tend to use Shoe Goo or hot melt glue. I have found that if you clean the oily film from EPO with alcohol then immediately Gorilla glue works very well, but it can be ugly if you don't baby sit it while it's expanding/curing, and can also be somewhat brittle. Generally I do the majority of repairs on EPO with Gorilla glue or hot melt glue. CA ONLY in places that don't flex. This generally means, CA is not my first choice for repairs mainly because "it broke because it flexed too quickly." However, CA does make very good field repairs. Just remember to "refix" your field repairs with less brittle glue when you get back to your shop.

My personal experience has shown Gorilla glue holds much better than any thickness of CA glue on EPO foam. Again, CA will fail if it is allowed to flex or vibrate much. Gorilla glue also dries fairly hard, but is no where near as brittle as CA. For stick motor mounts, drill a few small diameter holes through the stick and soak in water for a few minutes then glue with Gorilla glue. Never use CA for motor mounts, that's a disaster waiting to happen. In my opinion, CA glue should ONLY be used to glue in rigid spars and hinges with this type of foam. I have used Gorilla glue for repairs and construction on Parkzone T28, Easy Star, Wild Hawk, GWS AT6 (EPO), Horizon Super Cub, and with several EPP /EPO scratch built planes and it is by far the most solid glue I have used with that material. Just make sure any surface oil is removed before application.

Shoe Goo might be the better choice for joining EPO fuselage halves together because it flexes and stretches much better than Gorilla glue and CA, but again, make sure any oil is removed. My pop uses a thin layer of Shoe Goo over the EPO foam on the nose of his Wild Hawk instead of strapping tape. It has never broken in those spots and he has definitely given it every opportunity to. He seems to like his "one point landings."

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsgleason
I got an EPO foam plane that needs gluing. It comes with a bottle of this other stuff and the instructions pretty much give nothing more than 'glue it,' so I was considering using gorilla glue instead, which is clearly documented and approved by many. Any thoughts?
Simple answer: There is no simple answer. Use glue that is most appropriate for the application. CA or Gorilla for rigid gluing, Shoe Goo or hot glue for flexible gluing. CA cures more brittle than Gorilla glue but CA is quicker, Shoe Goo seems to hold better than hot glue, but hot glue is quicker. GWS glue (or other foam safe contact cement like that "other stuff") also works well for joining "halves" together if applied correctly (like Butch777 said). 5 minute epoxy and white/wood glues (like Elmers or Titebond) do not work well with EPO at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL
... is EPO really the same thing as Elapor?
Elapor is always EPO, EPO is not always Elapor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL
Are EPO, Hobbico's Aerocell, Multiplex's Elapor, Horizon's Z-Foam, and Arcel all the same thing?
Yes, for the most part. They are all Expanded Poly-Olefin (EPO). It's the release agent the manufacturers use in their molding process that leaves the oily film on the surface of the foam. Some manufacturers clean it up better than others. The bead sizes/density/colors vary but it's basically the same stuff with slightly different characteristics. The main difference being marketing hype, branding, and personal bias.
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Last edited by haiduk; Feb 25, 2009 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2009, 04:02 PM
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Thanks for all your good input, haiduk.

I think a contact cement like UHU Creative would be good for joining fuse halfs, because of it flexing, like the Shoe hoo you mentioned. Or anywhere else flexability is needed (unless you need gap filling, then stick with PU glues). And UHU holds really well. Shoe goo is mostly silicone, and the toluene odor is something I like to stay away from.

I'm curious, as far as PU glue, you only mention Gorilla, so does that mean you dont like, or haven't used Sumo?


BTW, when you're talking about stick mounts, you mean wood sticks, right (not as in the slow stick)?
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Old Feb 25, 2009, 05:36 PM
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Actually the toluene in Shoe Goo does slightly attack EPO foam, but it seems to help bond with the foam better. It also seals micro cracks in the surface of the foam. Always test glue on scraps. Shoe Goo eats up EPS (Beer Cooler Foam) quickly. Foam safe contact glues do work very well for joining halves.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL
...
I'm curious, as far as PU glue, you only mention Gorilla, so does that mean you dont like, or haven't used Sumo?
I've only used "Gorilla" brand of PU glues. I can only assume other brands would work just as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL
...
BTW, when you're talking about stick mounts, you mean wood sticks, right (not as in the slow stick)?
Yup. Wood stick mounts.

By the way, PU glues are "activated" by moisture. CA is also activated by moisture (or more like the absence of air). A water spritz bottle works well in place of CA Accelerator.

CA works very well for containing the foaming of PU glues. A nice trick is to glue the joint with Gorilla glue, spritz with water, join the pieces, and then seal the edges with CA to contain or direct the foaming. The moisture in the PU glue and the light dampness of the water tends to set the CA off quickly. Many times the CA is enough to hold the joint from expanding apart until the PU glue cures and it channels the foaming of the Gorilla glue to predetermined places for easy cleaning/trimming. It is still a good idea to tape or clamp the joints.
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Old Feb 26, 2009, 04:59 PM
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If you're using brown Gorilla, Sumo works better.

That's a pretty good tip about using Ca to keep PU glue in. Also some use tape to keep it in, but punch a few small holes in the tape for the glue to come out, which make it easier to wipe off, and break/cut/sand off after drying.
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Old Feb 26, 2009, 08:39 PM
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Brian, I haven't used Sumo, I will definitely pick up a bottle next time. What makes it better than Gorilla glue? Less brittle would be nice.
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Old Oct 30, 2010, 04:15 PM
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Best glue for epo foam jet or plane

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsgleason View Post
I got an EPO foam plane that needs gluing. It comes with a bottle of this other stuff and the instructions pretty much give nothing more than 'glue it,' so I was considering using gorilla glue instead, which is clearly documented and approved by many. Any thoughts?
Hi my name is Chris and I have a mirage 2000 epo foam jet. It also came with this no name glue and to my BAD luck was all dried up inside. So I had to research and come up with a suitable alternative. Well I looked all on the internet and just got confused and decided to go to walmart and read different labels on all the glue. I went to hardware, crafts, and even the automotive section. I saw different glues like gorrilla glue, elmers, loctite, super glue, cement and some craft glues. None said anything about glueing foam. Some glues had acetone in them which I believe eats foam on contact. So I then looked at the less expensive glue guns and read finally on a label good for foam. So I bought a 3 dollar low temp glue gun, glue sticks and tried it. This method works absolutely the best. Were're talkin a very strong bond and almost immediate bond and dried and hard. This is the only way too go. This is my personnel expierience and is awsome and works the best. GET A GLUE GUN FOR ALL EPO BUILDS...........
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Old Nov 19, 2010, 09:25 PM
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My results after trying the many recommended glues you guys mentioned.

IMO, the best over-all glue for EPO & EPP is Shoe Goo. That's because it sticks pieces together excellent, yet has a slight flexibility to it once set. And it is readily available right on the corner and right on the price!

Use it sparingly and in well-ventilated areas only!

Yes, it can be thinned with acetone. Can be applied with precision that way, with a brush or a toothpick.

Hot glue can easily separate if the model is inside of a hot vehicle, especially during the warmer summer months.

Using any CA on EPO glue-joints can result in eventual vibration-failure, so I try to stay away from CA on EPP & EPO, as a rule.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 09:12 AM
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Should we consider epoxy?
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 11:17 PM
what it do everybody?
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Hot glue doesn't separate unless you put it hot knife to it. And should it be hot enough to melt the glue, then the glue is the least of your worries. I've used hot glue on many planes - foam/wood/composite. It's rock solid. There are 2 basic types, and it's limited use b/c it'll melt foam. For instance the small 1/4" glue sticks work well on most park flyers, but the larger 1/2" sticks can hold landing gear on a 4.5lb, 120mph edf just fine.
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Old Nov 22, 2010, 04:42 PM
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It is not a question of the diameter of the sticks, melting temperature is the main concern.

I did some more homework, searched, when back and reread some posts.

Me and many of us keep planes in the car all day so we can fly after work.

Others on RCG and elsewhere have claimed to have had pieces detach from their planes when left all day long in their cars.

Inside cars and especially inside of a closed car trunk, temperatures can exceed 160 F in the hot summer time sun.
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Old Nov 22, 2010, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddoo View Post
Should we consider epoxy?
I haven't had luck having epoxy stick well to EPO.

Nor white glue (or yellow glue) for that matter.

Paint doesn't have vicious adhesion to EPO either.

Before paint is applied to any unpainted EPO surface, it will need to have the oily mold-release removed. Wipe it down well with isopropyl alcohol. Sand the foam too, fine grit. The surface will look very dull then. Use a damp cloth to take the sanding particles off of the surface. And ALWAYS use primer first.
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Old Nov 26, 2010, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc crashburn View Post
IMO, the best over-all glue for EPO & EPP is Shoe Goo. That's because it sticks pieces together excellent, yet has a slight flexibility to it once set. And it is readily available right on the corner and right on the price!

Use it sparingly and in well-ventilated areas only!

Yes, it can be thinned with acetone. Can be applied with precision that way, with a brush or a toothpick.

Hot glue can easily separate if the model is inside of a hot vehicle, especially during the warmer summer months.

Using any CA on EPO glue-joints can result in eventual vibration-failure, so I try to stay away from CA on EPP & EPO, as a rule.
Shoe Goo is basically plain contact cement, isn't it? Or at least a type of it. Had any problems with it melting foam?

Have you tried polyurethane glues?
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Old Nov 26, 2010, 04:00 PM
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Have not had any problems with shoe-goo melting EPO or EPP. It can be used as a contact cement or applied to one surface only. (it will melt regular EPS styrofoam)

Polyurethane glues works with all foam, as it won't melt any of them. It does bubble-up and expands when it is setting-up, so use it sparingly or you may have a sticky mess oozing out of your glue-joints.

I've used PU glues a lot too. Medium CA over the PU setting joint can be used to control expansion, which is a good thing.
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Old Nov 27, 2010, 02:53 PM
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I like medium CA too but I have never tried the kicker. CA usually dries fast enough on its own for me.
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Old Nov 27, 2010, 08:03 PM
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Same with me, don't mind waiting, so have NEVER used kicker in my 30 years of using CA glues.

CA is still WAY faster (even without kicker) than most types of other glues.
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