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Old Mar 10, 2009, 10:32 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
Made up some jaws for my crimping pliers so I could get in at the swages and get a more consistent squeeze.
The swages are made from 3/32 x 3/8 (10mm) long copper tube approx about 200 swages in the fuselage bracing so worth the effort making the jaws

Have the two centre bays all braced which is all I can do at this stage, and most of the wire just tweaked up, the 'U' bolts really work well tensioning the wires once you have them the correct initial length.
The forward wires cant be tightened yet until I do the next bay.
Hello xairflyer,

I am curious about the nice work you are doing.
The swages . . . is the 3/32" the ID or the OD prior to swaging?
What kind of wire material are you using?
What is its diameter?

Thanks for any info.

Zor
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Old Mar 11, 2009, 05:53 AM
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3/32" OD copper tube, wire is 22swg stainless steel aircraft locking wire
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Old Mar 11, 2009, 06:57 AM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
3/32" OD copper tube, wire is 22swg stainless steel aircraft locking wire
Thanks xairflyer,

There is different dia for the aircraft locking wire which is why I was asking for the diameter.

I am planning to use some of this wire for flying wires on my Skybolt.
I have some wire that is 0.030" dia. I am hoping for something more like 0.015 which would be four times lighter and still more than strong enough.

I'll try to find a table giving the SWG sizes. I have the AWG but not the SWG.

Zor

Edit and re-post
Just found 22 SWG is 0.028" dia.
I'll go to the local flying club airport and see if they have something like 30 SWG about 0.012" dia.

Thanks again.

Zor
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Old Mar 11, 2009, 09:01 AM
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Try aircraft spruce .020 is normally the smallest
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Old Mar 11, 2009, 10:23 AM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
Try aircraft spruce .020 is normally the smallest
Thanks

Like said in radio communications . . . roger and out.
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Old Mar 11, 2009, 08:58 PM
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Need to make the tailpost, been studying the pictures I have.
It looks like it is a single piece of wood (they must have loved carving wood in 1909). The longerons seem to be held together in a V shape cut out, let into the top and bottom of the tailpost.

The curve for the rudder hinge post seems also to have a piece of metal? I suspose as a liner.

How to start making this, the rudder hinge points need to be in line, so do I start with a large piece of timber and drill a streight hole down through it, then cut through the hole and then the two angled sides ? Lot of carving ahead I think.
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Old Mar 12, 2009, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zor
Thanks xairflyer,

There is different dia for the aircraft locking wire which is why I was asking for the diameter.

I am planning to use some of this wire for flying wires on my Skybolt.
I have some wire that is 0.030" dia. I am hoping for something more like 0.015 which would be four times lighter and still more than strong enough.
If you dont mind it being nickel plated, guitar strings are available in 007, 008, 010, 011, 102 ans 015 diameters.

They need a good stretch to work harden them first, but after that they retain tension remarkably well.
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Old Mar 12, 2009, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
Need to make the tailpost, been studying the pictures I have.
It looks like it is a single piece of wood (they must have loved carving wood in 1909). The longerons seem to be held together in a V shape cut out, let into the top and bottom of the tailpost.

The curve for the rudder hinge post seems also to have a piece of metal? I suspose as a liner.

How to start making this, the rudder hinge points need to be in line, so do I start with a large piece of timber and drill a streight hole down through it, then cut through the hole and then the two angled sides ? Lot of carving ahead I think.

It looks like a very traditional half bearing shell..they would have clamped anther U shaped piece over the top to form the other half, and used a metal tube, or a metal coated wood rod, as the other part of the bearing.

I would suggest you make it by carving a sternpost, and then epoxying a tube to it entirely. Solder some straps back to the sternpost to retain, and then cut away the rest of it. Use a steel wire or rod as the rudder hinge, and some brass straps to locate. Pus washers soldered to the rod to constrain vertically.
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Old Mar 12, 2009, 07:15 PM
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The rudder hinge bar is part of the rudder and is 24mm wood dowl on fullsize I will be using 12mm. It also appears to be wrapped in brass shim.
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Old Mar 12, 2009, 07:35 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage1
If you dont mind it being nickel plated, guitar strings are available in 007, 008, 010, 011, 102 ans 015 diameters.

They need a good stretch to work harden them first, but after that they retain tension remarkably well.
vintage1,

I sure appreciate your post and the possibility. I think I need 10 or 12 each approx 20" long. They have to be staight without any tension. The way they would be installed is such that only the backlash would be removed by home made special little ferrules that are adjustable via 2 x 56 little screws at one end. It is all in my mind

Thanks and best regards,

Concerning that rudder assembly I understand that the tail post pic is from the full size Bleriot.
Do you have pics of the whole rudder assembly? I am guessing not or you would not be debating it.
It looks to me that the two big bolts, one at the top and one at the botom must have been retaining the rudder.
We could help with ideas about the rudder and its mount if we knew the shape (contour) of it.

Zor
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Old Mar 13, 2009, 07:52 AM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
The rudder hinge bar is part of the rudder and is 24mm wood dowl on fullsize I will be using 12mm. It also appears to be wrapped in brass shim.
xairflyer,

I had not yet received post 39 while I was writing post 40.

The picture in post 39 pretty well confirms what I wrote in #40.

The way I see it is that half of a split bushing is on the vertical post and the other half would be retained by a U shaped strap held by the two big bolts seen in the tail end picture.

Careful dimensioning of this U strap would would avoid play (looseness) in the bushing bearings without jamming it thight.

Just trying to think.

Zor
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Old Mar 13, 2009, 08:08 AM
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I agree with Zor. They have simply split some tube and glued or screwed it to the wood post to make a bearing surface, and would have used brass U clamps to hold it.
At those speeds a bit of slop and rattle would not have been an issue..probably the control wire tension would have held it to the tailpost with the clamps taking little more than lateral load.
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Old Mar 13, 2009, 08:27 AM
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Yes the rudder is held on by a strap wrapped around the hinge post, only pics I have of the rudder fitted are scanned photos from a A4 sheet of views mick reeves sent me, but show how it is done.
Need to get the tailpost carved up, need to start of with a piece about 2"x3" so I can drill my hole down through then cut the V shape sides, the rest will be carving.
I can then bond on a piece of tube as vintage suggested and cut away the excess, this should keep all inline.
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Old Mar 13, 2009, 10:48 AM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
Yes the rudder is held on by a strap wrapped around the hinge post, only pics I have of the rudder fitted are scanned photos from a A4 sheet of views mick reeves sent me, but show how it is done.
Need to get the tailpost carved up, need to start of with a piece about 2"x3" so I can drill my hole down through then cut the V shape sides, the rest will be carving.
I can then bond on a piece of tube as vintage suggested and cut away the excess, this should keep all inline.
Just what I imagined and mentioned.
Lots of work in this model but you have it all under control .

It is not for me to give you advice because I know you will not forget to provide for greasing the rudder bushings.

How is that for saying something without saying it ? .

Now if you can reduce your weight by a factor of 8 you do not need a RC .

All the best _ _ _ you are well on your way to success.

Zor
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Old Mar 13, 2009, 05:05 PM
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I fly fullsize as well and would love to build a fullsize replica, the ribs look to be a huge amount of work on their own, but all the construction would be the same, I am also following Prince's building the fullsize instructions as well with the model so have alreadt built one in my head
Lots of good stuff on www.bleriot.org
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Last edited by xairflyer; Mar 13, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
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