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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:44 AM
just gotta mess with it!
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North West Louisiana
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
The H3126 is a re-branded Suppo motor. I've used a couple of their 450 size ones in 4s setups , and they seem pretty good. I particularly like the 4mm bearings and shaft which steps down to 3.17mm for the pinion. The 3126 looks like it has a 5mm shaft throughout. People criticise the Suppo motors for having stiff leads - but that's because they just extend the windings rather than attaching a separate, more flexible lead. Once the motor is installed, the leads don't move so I don't have a problem with that.

I note that the Helidrive motor is 42mm diameter, compared with 38mm for the 3126. Maybe the Helidrive will be the 500 size equivalent of the T600 "fatty" motors which seem to be well liked. If the specs are correct, however, you might need to be very careful with the ESC you use. If the motor truly does have 14 poles, many ESC's will only be able to run it up to 34,000rpm. On 6s, the motor would want to run up to 38,000rpm (loaded) and would lose sync.
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Last edited by 2Doggs; Oct 19, 2012 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Sync
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:02 AM
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kansas city
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What do you count as poles any way? This has always confused me. I think they are counting the stator. I just got a motor from VCTRC and it has 14 separate stator lobes. I don't know if you divide that by a number or what? Or do you count the number of magnets. Not being a smart a$$ just not afraid to admit when I don't know something.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:33 AM
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United States, MD, Princess Anne
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
What do you count as poles any way? This has always confused me. I think they are counting the stator. I just got a motor from VCTRC and it has 14 separate stator lobes. I don't know if you divide that by a number or what? Or do you count the number of magnets. Not being a smart a$$ just not afraid to admit when I don't know something.
for outrunners you count the magnets. For inrunners you need to look up the specs
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:11 AM
just gotta mess with it!
2Doggs's Avatar
North West Louisiana
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Down the Poles!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
What do you count as poles any way? This has always confused me. I think they are counting the stator. I just got a motor from VCTRC and it has 14 separate stator lobes. I don't know if you divide that by a number or what? Or do you count the number of magnets. Not being a smart a$$ just not afraid to admit when I don't know something.
As Black_Heart says, the number of poles = number of magnets.

The only time it's really important to know the number of poles is if you want to run governor mode, or, as possibly with the Helidrive, you potentially exceed the controlling speed of the ESC. Most ESC's will have a maximum speed, usually stated as the maximum speed the ESC can run a 2 pole motor. When I checked, there are some ESC's that will only run a 2 pole motor up to 200,000rpm. So for the Helidrive, if it really does have 14 poles, the maximum speed would be only 28,600rpm. I think there's a bit of leeway with most ESC's. On my 40A Superbrain, it seemed to amount to about 10%, but you really wouldn't want to be operating any ESC right on or close to the limit.

I hope for the sake of the usefulness of the Helidrive that it's actually an 8 or 10 pole motor, in which case there wouldn't be any issues running it on 6s with just about any ESC.

Edit: in fact according to Spoofman, the motor only has 6 poles which obviously makes the ESC speed limit a non-issue.
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Last edited by 2Doggs; Oct 19, 2012 at 11:03 AM. Reason: Only 6 poles
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:53 PM
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kansas city
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In that case mine is 8 poles and I am willing to bet HK are counting the stator

Thanks for the info. When you stop learning new things you die!
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 06:00 PM
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The HeliDrive SK3 motor I just recieved has 6 magnets and 10 stator lobes. I don't know where they are getting "14 poles" from. It's fat and short compared to the Suppo 1300kv and didn't have any scratches on it, also unlike the Suppo that looked like they had thrown it into a bucket with a bunch of others at the factory after it was assembled. It feels much stiffer than the suppo when turned.

Sp00fman's complaints on the discussion page about rusty magnets and stator cores doesn't seem to be an issue with the motor I received. Either that was an isolated incident or HK fixed the problem.

EDIT: Unlike the one Sp00fman received this motor is also well balanced, fired it up outside the heli and it's very, very smooth. The Suppo produces high frequency vibes, this motor does not.

EDIT: I just noticed that the shaft has no flat spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
If the motor truly does have 14 poles, many ESC's will only be able to run it up to 34,000rpm. On 6s, the motor would want to run up to 38,000rpm (loaded) and would lose sync.
It's a 6 pole motor but I'm going to be using a YEP80A so it wouldn't be a problem anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
The H3126 is a re-branded Suppo motor. I've used a couple of their 450 size ones in 4s setups , and they seem pretty good. I particularly like the 4mm bearings and shaft which steps down to 3.17mm for the pinion.
You wouldn't happen to know what size bearings the 450 size 2100kv uses would you? I've been using that one in my 4S 450 Sport.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 12:13 PM
just gotta mess with it!
2Doggs's Avatar
North West Louisiana
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
You wouldn't happen to know what size bearings the 450 size 2100kv uses would you? I've been using that one in my 4S 450 Sport.
I have the 2500kv 2218 and the 2900kv 2223. On the 2223, the front bearing is 10x4x3.5 and the rear bearings are 8x4x3.

With all my motors, I try to improve the balance using Scotch "Magic" tape stuck to the can. I find the best balance by a fairly tedious trial and error process, trying the tape in different positions around the can. Once I've found the spot that gets it hot, I mark the can with a paint pen, so I can re-apply tape if it comes off. The 2223 needed about 3cm of tape to get it balanced, but it made a big difference. Without the tape, the vibration would cause the frame bolts to come undone on my 450 fairly quickly.

Your description of the Helidrive is encouraging - it sounds like a decent motor.

I'm tempted to try this HK 6s motor in my 450 next.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:49 PM
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United States, CA, Highland
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I just got one! Now time to get to work and build it, I've been reading and following this thread for a few weeks now and have learned quite a bit. One thing to note though I was disassembling the frame to loc-tite everything when I noticed that the tail drive pulley and gear were really tight, I mean so tight that I'm sure I would have stripped it if left that way. I'm still not totally sure why but I fixed it by installing 0.010 shims between the aluminum block halves but only on the first four screws. I left them out of the two that clamp the tailboom so that it wouldn't be loose when it clamps down, seems to have worked as I can now tighten it down and the gear rotates nice and smooth with zero play in any direction. Think this will be ok?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:37 AM
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United States, IL, New Lenox
Joined Jan 2012
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KDBB Orange Damper update....

The more I fly with these dampers the better it is. When I first put them in the grips were a bit notchy. I have 8 or ten flights on them now and the grips are back to silky smooth. The tracking is still dead on. I am pleased with the product.

My LHS is trying to get me some tail rotor blades. I will let you know how those work out when and if they ever arrive. LHS is working out the agrrement to become a stocking dealer for KDBB products and it is taking longer than he anticipated.

RWW
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by whitehedr View Post
KDBB Orange Damper update....

The more I fly with these dampers the better it is. When I first put them in the grips were a bit notchy. I have 8 or ten flights on them now and the grips are back to silky smooth. The tracking is still dead on. I am pleased with the product.
It's normal to have a bit of drag on the grips at first, as soon as the bearings shims etc. all settle and break it it'll smooth out. If it hasn't gone away by 20 flights or so then you know something is wrong.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Align now has a version of the new Pro tail pitch slider that fits the ESP tailcase.

http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=9059
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:25 AM
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United States, IL, New Lenox
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That new slider looks real nice but it is a bit pricey at $38.80 USD

I do see one in my future as I am not happy with the device on my EXI 500.

RWW
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:00 PM
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That new slider looks real nice but it is a bit pricey at $38.80 USD

I do see one in my future as I am not happy with the device on my EXI 500.

RWW
You can mod the Pro "standard" bellcrank to work with an ESP pitch slider by reaming out the small end of the plastic cup a little and putting it in upside down, then screwing the ball into the slider after it's in (have to ream out the small end slightly or it restricts the neck of the ball link). Or alternatively just get the Pro slider (you have to mod the bellcrank for the ESP slider because the pro slider doesn't have the raised bit where the ball screws in). Tarot makes a copy of the Pro bellcrank, but not the Pro slider.

It's not as good as the zero slop slider but it's much better than the standard one and only costs you about 7 bucks. Also the Pro bellcrank Tarot makes doesn't bind when you tighten the screw unlike their old metal ESP bellcrank (though you could fix that by putting a 3x5x0.1 shim washer between one of the flange bearings and the collar in the center)
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:32 PM
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Thanks for the Tip Atomic. I will look into that.

RWW
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by whitehedr View Post
Thanks for the Tip Atomic. I will look into that.

RWW
what you want to do is take that little plastic cup and insert it into the end of the arm from the opposite side it's supposed to go, then screw in the ball from underneath the arm. Check the travel, and if it's restricted (which it will probably be) pull out the cup and ream the small end slightly and try again till you get full travel. After I was done I glued in the cup so it wouldn't vibrate loose.
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