225 servo i have mines on the fourth hole also if i can remember it gives the right angle

Originally Posted by rocketscience

I'm putting together the black friday plastic exi500 for a friend. I just ran into the same problem. shim too thick, was able to force the lower jesus bolt but then it squeezed the 2 gears together causing the owb to lock up. I just removed the shim entirely. (ill sand it down later)

Now I'm running into the flybar rubbing against the side of the slot in the headblock. This is all strange as these 2 parts (gear assembly and headblock) are the same as the exi500 carbon.

I just started my exi500 CF and my shim is to thick too and it's not even. One side is 1.03, the other is 1.00 millimeter. The align spec is 0.8 mm. That seems like what it should be.

I also have the boom case with the misaligned tail drive bearing supports.

rocketscience:

The Align T-Rex 500 manual calls for 16-16.5mm distance from center to ball on the cyclic servos. Unless I missed it there is no spec in the manual for the rudder servo. For my 450's it's always been as close to center as possible. That's where I plan to start for the rudder on this bird too.

I'm working on mine right now and am seeing the same issue with the flybar on my CF version. I loosened up all 4 bolts on the flybar cage and then pushed the flybar through. I tightened up the bolts and all seems OK now.

Joe

ckindt:

Sounds like exactly what I had. The spec may be .8mm (.032) from Align but on mine I had to go down to .7 (.028) to get an acceptable clearance.

Joe

Originally Posted by turbojoe

rocketscience:

The Align T-Rex 500 manual calls for 16-16.5mm distance from center to ball on the cyclic servos. Unless I missed it there is no spec in the manual for the rudder servo. For my 450's it's always been as close to center as possible. That's where I plan to start for the rudder on this bird too.

I'm working on mine right now and am seeing the same issue with the flybar on my CF version. I loosened up all 4 bolts on the flybar cage and then pushed the flybar through. I tightened up the bolts and all seems OK now.

Joe

On my own exi500CF I went with the Align specs but I imagine those specs were written for the ds510 which I have. However I could swear the 225bb has different travel. But I'll go with what Anton suggests.

I was able the get the flybar in, but it does not want to tilt because it rubs pretty hard against the head block. No choice but to file it down.

Originally Posted by rocketscience

However I could swear the 225bb has different travel.

The HS-225 is capable of 180 degrees of travel but only if the TX is capable or if you use the 180 degree servo stretcher. Under normal circumstances it should operate as any normal servo.

Joe

Originally Posted by Melnic

Here is where I put mine originally. Now it's at the bottom of the frame sticking out slightly. It's on velcro so in a crash it pops loose instead of getting smashed if the maingear breaks.

Thanks Melnic! If it wasn't for you a lot of us would be scratching our heads raw with this build!

Joe

hopefully i can fly in the little snow today to get a test flight but here are some pics of what worked for me on my heli,
i finally got a new camera yea

Oh almost forgot i was thinking about what you guys were saying about the 16mm that the align manual says your all right , but i believe with the stand off of the 225 it changes the "how should i say this" the distance making it shorter on the 225 due to the stand off of the servo its not a straight line but a slanted one. i might be wrong but thats what i was thinking

Originally Posted by turbojoe

rocketscience:

The Align T-Rex 500 manual calls for 16-16.5mm distance from center to ball on the cyclic servos. Unless I missed it there is no spec in the manual for the rudder servo. For my 450's it's always been as close to center as possible. That's where I plan to start for the rudder on this bird too.

I'm working on mine right now and am seeing the same issue with the flybar on my CF version. I loosened up all 4 bolts on the flybar cage and then pushed the flybar through. I tightened up the bolts and all seems OK now.

Joe

checking if ya rememebered those 2 little thin washers that go inbetween the flybar cage/bearing on the carbon model? if not sure will post a pic

EXI 500 WITH GAUI GM-504 BRUSHLESS MOTOR/2 SERIES NANO TECH 2650MAH (7 min 44 sec)

Sorry about the video quality i was setting up the 500 with the new motor i thought i did good with the 13t pinion i am setting my gyro gain and throttle curve. this motor is a winner

Originally Posted by lectroglide

checking if ya rememebered those 2 little thin washers that go inbetween the flybar cage/bearing on the carbon model? if not sure will post a pic

No I definitely remembered those. In fact, after I remove the temp screws I use tape to hold the cage together so the washers don't fall out. I took the headblock apart and filed the slot. It's perfectly fine now.

I DID have to resort to using my old exi500 CF main gear assembly. I just couldn't file down the shim enough.. not sure how everyone is sanding these. I was able to get the gear in the frame but when I screwed the Jesus bolt in the owb gets very difficult to turn. The old EXI assembly went in fine. very odd. Like something in the factory changed these dimensions.

Originally Posted by rocketscience

No I definitely remembered those. In fact, after I remove the temp screws I use tape to hold the cage together so the washers don't fall out. I took the headblock apart and filed the slot. It's perfectly fine now.

I DID have to resort to using my old exi500 CF main gear assembly. I just couldn't file down the shim enough.. not sure how everyone is sanding these. I was able to get the gear in the frame but when I screwed the Jesus bolt in the owb gets very difficult to turn. The old EXI assembly went in fine. very odd. Like something in the factory changed these dimensions.

Because my flybar still wasn't as smooth as I wanted I took it all apart again and filed my head block slot too. Now it's as smooth as a babies butt.

I filed my shim down using the file on my Leatherman knife as it was the only file I had in the shop I was in at the time. I used my fingers to slide it back and forth for probably close to 15 minutes while constantly checking thickness with a caliper. It was a p.i.t.a. and my fingerprints are gone but it worked for me. The gears operate completely smooth now.

I've been finishing everything up today and came to the conclusion that all the balls and ball links are going to get scrapped in favor of Align parts. Even before sizing the links they come off too easy for my liking. I'm not even going to spool it up until they're replaced. I know it seems kinda anal but I'm in no big hurry. Hopefully the hobby shop will have them in stock and I'll get them on the way to work tomorrow.

Joe

Originally Posted by turbojoe

I've been finishing everything up today and came to the conclusion that all the balls and ball links are going to get scrapped in favor of Align parts. Even before sizing the links they come off too easy for my liking. I'm not even going to spool it up until they're replaced. I know it seems kinda anal but I'm in no big hurry. Hopefully the hobby shop will have them in stock and I'll get them on the way to work tomorrow.

Joe

You know what I had the exact same thought. On my own CF I have a mix of exi and align links but only because of crashing and whatnot. On that heli, the align links are better, but slightly. On this one, the exi links are so soft I resized them with MAYBE 2 turns and now they just pop off if you stare at them. I told my friend he should get some align links.

Also I just mounted the tail servo on the plastic servo tabs. Holy flex batman. Def need to upgrade that at least to the GF servo mount.

my tail servos on the 500 are typically around 11 or so. I set them up so my tail servo has just under full travel at 100% stick movement in rate mode, then I adjust the end points using the gyro limit settings.