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Old Nov 29, 2012, 04:31 AM
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jcansdale's Avatar
United Kingdom, Gunnerton
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalight View Post
It is made from scratch.. all carbon fiber and covered with ICAREX and painted with Sharpie markers. Eagle Tree Gaurdian helps it fly real nice. With no Gaurdian, it tucks and flits like a real buterfly... a handful! Here was the lines on top of starting plans. Hope this helps!
Beautiful kite.

It's interesting to hear you're using the Gaurdian. I've often wondered if I could make a plane fly backwards using a stabilization system. I know some military planes are designed so that they're unstable without active stabilization.

I've never seen this tucking behavior before. Might it be because your kite as an aft CoG? These kites do seem to be tolerant of CoG changes. I'm wondering if I flew mine tail heavy and fast it would tuck?
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:38 AM
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USA, WA, Seattle
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What sizes of carbon fiber are you using?
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 04:37 PM
IFO's are planes too
atone1's Avatar
Petersburg, Va.
Joined Dec 2008
432 Posts
HI digitalight, where do you get the Icarex fabric from?
I've had a heck of a time trying to find this covering material.
All the other ripstop I've found shrinks in the sun and warps the airframe.
Al.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:28 PM
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United States, TX, Pflugerville
Joined Apr 2011
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tucking

If the airframe can flex AND you over power the kite, it WILL tuck and roll. Just pull back on power and you will be fine. Mine is very over powered. When I stiffened the frame with kevlar to a king post, it becames much better.

The main reason I put the Gaurdian on was to do near vertical high alphas for the crowd night flying a group of us do. I use the all up heading hold mode for these flight maneuvers. When I spec out at night or loose orientation, I simply switch to the stabilazation mode and the bird recovers right side up and level!
Works like a champ.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:33 PM
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United States, TX, Pflugerville
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sizes of carbon

center fuse spar is 8mm square. Wing main spar is 4mm tube. Small sticks are
1mm and 2mm rods. Main large curve is a rod of 3mm. Do not be afraid to use a larger or stronger size as weight is plenty light.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:40 PM
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United States, TX, Pflugerville
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Icarex

Call my friend Marieanne Trennepohl at 734-454-3760 and she will help you with any ICAREX order. She has been teriffic for me over the years. She and her husband own Kitesandfunthings and Skyburnerkites.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:00 PM
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jcansdale and flying tail heavy

I would not do that. Stay slightly nose heavy and add drag (the streamers) to tame a twitchy airframe. The butterfly is twitchy because of the excessive wing area forward of the center of pressure of the aircraft. An added problem is that at high speeds they can flex and hence the tucking. Now you understand why I Kevlar braced everything. Notice I have a LARGE working rudder. The butterfly must have this due to the interference of the forward swept wingtips. It is really a nice flying aircraft and can hang on the prop in high alpha all flight long and so it looks like a real butterfly.

It flies like a 3D indoor foamy and I have a lot of that experience so I make the butterfly look like a beginner bird... it is NOT a trainer! It goes faster than the singapore flyers (go fly kite) and does loops that are like a helicopter tumbling in place. Flown gracefully though, it is a beauty and night time work of art. It was well worth the time and effort and will stay in my permanent night flier collection.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 04:12 AM
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United Kingdom, Gunnerton
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Yesterday I was experimenting with putting the battery right at the back of my GoFlyKite Pro III. It has the powerset from a 3D fomie, which makes it light with plenty of power. It was interesting to watch it nose up and do an elevator into a tail slide when it stalls rather than drop the nose like with a forward CoG. You're right it doesn't tame it, but it's an amusing to change to the way it flies.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Hello,

I'm going to build a Motorkite me (see picture), but I have absolutely no idea what I need for electrical components. It is a great help to me when I left a couple of lists, or technical data.

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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:49 AM
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USA, NY, Chester
Joined Apr 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcansdale View Post
Yesterday I was experimenting with putting the battery right at the back of my GoFlyKite Pro III. It has the powerset from a 3D fomie, which makes it light with plenty of power. It was interesting to watch it nose up and do an elevator into a tail slide when it stalls rather than drop the nose like with a forward CoG. You're right it doesn't tame it, but it's an amusing to change to the way it flies.
Do you have a pic of your kite
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:58 AM
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United Kingdom, Gunnerton
Joined Dec 2010
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GoFlyKite ProIII

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrich View Post
Do you have a pic of your kite
Here are a few photos.

I'm using a SunnySky X2204 1800kv motor, which is the 19g one used on TwistedHobbies 32" fomies. Because this is much lighter than the original GoFliKite one, I have the battery perched right on the nose. This has transformed my ProIII into an agile little beast.

I'm in the middle of building a Mini IFO, which I'll try with the same power set. The ProIII looks very much like a stretched IFO. It till be interesting to see if there's much difference in the way they fly.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:36 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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excellent work on the butterflies....

flexing frames definitely can cause tucking...the IFO has a similar problem in the early days , solved by extra bracing ...check out that thread...
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 01:27 AM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Mar 2000
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Originally Posted by digitalight View Post
here is the final paint. Now go make a girlfriend very happy! My wife does not really get into all the stuff I fly, but the art fliers ... she goes nuts over and always comes with me when they fly!!!
Awesome. I could see my daughter going wild over something like this. My wife? She'd still like to snap it in half. but maybe after looking it over and admiring it first
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 09:52 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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If you fly indoors likely you will have seen the Vapors flying..now they are night vapors with LED's
Ultra easy and slow they float about beautifully... I have one and highly recommend it..
But its not aerobatic , if you loop it the wings flap about..so I am now going with our kites made into micro kites for use with those ar6400 type bocks, 1 cell lipo....etc..

Looking at various models I have gone with the Bug shape crossed IFO..

The first build is good.. nicely stiff and strong, weighing 14gms as seen in the pic..I used the rods specified in the lines picture.

.however the foil is an Xmas wrap 40 microns thick and 22gsm. a bit heavy compared to some other materials .and wont let your lED's shine through, like fabric....I think the build can be lightened by going down a size on most of the rods and using a thinner foil..the size might also be increased to get the wing loading even lower..

I want lower weight, but a stiff frame is also most important.. the first build is good

for these micros the weight is what matters so any weight saved will improve its performance..gms matter..

for lights.. a set of 4 leds can be used wired in parrallel with a single resistor in the line..here is a copy of the post about its lighting..
.. .................................................. ..
.after seeing some night vapors fly I wanted LED lights and wondered how much juice it will take from the battery..shortening the flight.. This setup only takes about 3-4mA with 4 led's
so
Here is something of interest to you micro fliers.. Ive been playing with LED lights after watching some night vapors flying..
I had various colors in 3mm that came with resistors to run them from a 12v(3 cell is fine) but they are all rated at around 3.6V...so the first trial was a direct connection to 1 cell..
they all go well but use near 100mA as they run.. juicy
So I then used the resister for the 12V setup and they still work... nowhere as bright but only about 2
mA when running, and certainly visible enough, because normally they are over bright..

Next I tried different colours...running wired individually... blue was good...white a bit brighter ..green good...yellow dimmer.. red dimmer.. flashing red/blue ok..
The yellow and red wanted about 4mA to run...higher than the others

Next I wired 1 resistor in the circuit and put on all the lights at once...
Results are odd to me but I am sure there are members who will give the explanation..An explanation has been made onthe micros thread
I found that I could run the white blue and green all together nicely...
Adding either of the Yellow or Red.. the B>G>W would stop working and the other color worked dimly by itself....
Adding the R/B flasher... the B>G>W would all flash, but all 4 worked ok.... testing the 4 were using 3-4mA only, so this will hardly be noticed by your little 1 cell lipo when compared to the motors draw...
.
Here is a short video showing the B>G>W and then what happens with the flasher, which sits between the blue and the green...every time the red on the flasher comes on , all the others go off...
thats the same as when I had a red in the circuit..red on turns the rest off
mind you I might use it like that

note on any multi chanel block you can plug the lights into one of the unused sockets if there are any

after youve seen the first few seconds simply scroll to near the end
.
LED lights for micro rc plane models (1 min 3 sec)
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Last edited by davereap; Jan 15, 2013 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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Ive also redrawn the simple kite at 1.5sqft..
This again is for an ultra light build..the main leading edge curve can be obtained from a 1M length of 1.5mm..
For a Micro light build
front spar and fuz 2mm ... rear spar 1.5mm
LE of elevons and elevon bends and reinforcement 1mm
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Last edited by davereap; Jan 15, 2013 at 01:36 PM.
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