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Old Nov 09, 2011, 02:26 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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Ken .. what are you using for your elevon curves? is that FibreGlass
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 03:32 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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Any reason why not

Ive been doing my wiring of the led's a long laborious way, wiring a resistor to each led and fitting that into a harness..
doing that each individual led will run from 12v or a 3cell lipo.. they also run from 7.4v, but must be slightly dimmer..
Today I thought why not use 4 leds wired in line..each led is 3+. something volts..so 4 is about 12v+ and I thought a set of 4 would work and be safe on 3 cells, and also be a lot quicker to wire up..

It works..... so I tried 5 and that was far too dim.. so 4 is safe and bright enough..
they are not getting hot so I know they are running a bit dim, however they are plenty bright enough and should not burn out running like this..

If I am correct the self adhesive lighting strips that are being sold runs a series of sets of 3 led's down their length... 3 would be brighter but hotter..

In the event of an individual burnout all 4 would go out, but using kens socket system it would be easy to swap out for a spare set, and easy to try changes of colors on the model.

Has anyone had any burnouts, whilst in general use, rather than by putting too many V through an individual led...
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 03:42 AM
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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Joined Aug 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davereap View Post
Ken .. what are you using for your elevon curves? is that FibreGlass
Yes unfortunately it is... i regret putting it on. It's too 'soft' for the elevons. Please don't follow that. You could use CF Rods of about 2.0 mm for it, it's much better.
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 09:38 AM
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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Here's more build process...
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 09:39 AM
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More...
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 06:34 PM
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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Finally... ready for maiden w/o lights.
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 02:38 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
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Neat and tidy covering... it looks so much better than my large over wrapping...
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 10:15 PM
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United States, IA, Cedar Rapids
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Any reason why not...

A problem with running LED's directly off batteries is that without really carefully matching the LED and battery, a slightly more charged battery or a different ambient temperature can cause the LED to draw too much current and a slightly more discharged battery can result in very little current and little light.

You might get away 3V * 4 LED's = 12V, but you'll probably find that when your 3S battery varies from 12.6V to 10.5 under load or when discharged, the light output will vary a lot.

Another option to consider is 3 LED's in series with one resistor (about 1/3 the value you normally use for 1 LED). 3 * 3V = 9V 12V-9V=3V 3V/0.010A=300 ohms. Or use 2 LED's with a little higher resistance. For trying it out, remember you can always put resistors in series to add their resistance or parallel two of the same value to half their resistance.

Hope I didn't waste your time with those thoughts.
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Last edited by mark963; Nov 12, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 10:29 PM
Expat
Japan
Joined Apr 2010
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Nice job Kenchin. Wouldn't theere be less air resistence by mounting electronics and making ripstop folds on top? Also, are there any full throtle aerobatic videos of these IFOs around? I'm wondering how guy wires bracing compare to none.
Mark, I'm wondering why I can run 30 LEDs in series off 1 connection on my LED tape strips.
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 03:24 AM
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Mark you obviously know your electrics so what happened here.. 4 leds on 3 cells ok ..then 5 leds were very dim, barely visible...I am figuring the extra led added too much resistance so the curent dropped too low ...but I grope in the dark here..

The led's are not that fussy, I used to wire up each one individually with a resistor..
they are sold that way on ebay from china to run from a 12v source.. like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-White-3...item2c6046b1c1
Wired in that way they are fully bright on a 3 cell.. but they still work ok on 2 cells.. with enough led's you can actually measure the draw on your what meter, its not a lot, with 36-40 I was using under .5A .. with a motor thats drawing 6-10A the lights shorten the motor run by just a small ammount..
Note under the different voltages there must be a drop in brightness, but these little things are very bright, at night they are blindingly too bright if they are shining directly at you.. and with a lower voltage , visually I never could see much or any difference..
3 cells to 2 cells.. even when the battery drops and the esc is cutting down the leds remain well bright..

Tape strip led's I think are run with multiple sets of 3 in series and then all sets run off the 3 cells or 12v.... if you look at the wiring diag, pics post 917, a set of 3 would replace each individual led/resistor in the first drawing... the actual number of sets can be as many as you want, but remember with long strips the Amps drawn will be higher and cut into your flying time
What I did , shown in the second pic, was to run a set of 4.. less bright, less heat and less current drawn (I think)...at night sets of 4 are plenty bright enough

Whatever you do dont run 1 or 2 leds without resistors or you will get severe overheating .. and blow out... if you stick with 4 in series (for 3 cells) of the led's that are 3+V spec they will be fine... or use 3 in series for 2 cell setups
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 09:56 AM
IFO's are planes too
atone1's Avatar
Petersburg, Va.
Joined Dec 2008
432 Posts
LED spotlighting on my IFO

Here's how I run my front LED spotlights.
I use the female plug that comes with the strip LEDs as a socket.
Wired in parallel with a 360ohm resister on each socket so they are real bright. I used a paper clip tied and CA'ed to the socket so that I could move the LEDs wherever I needed them. My covering is a US flag so I went with red; white; and blue LED strips and with two 7000mcd high brightness white LEDs on front. I can change the headlights to whatever color I want.
Al.
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 03:29 PM
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Troy, MI
Joined Jan 2008
103 Posts
Thanks for the build thread Ken. I was working at a remote location this week with minimal access to the Internet. I like the method you use to apply the covering, and you are getting great results.

I like the lines of the kite in post 910 Dave. Will download the file and give it a try.
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 09:26 PM
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Joined Oct 2011
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night flyers are wonderful,bring back my memory.thks
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 03:30 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
Joined Feb 2005
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Yes the triangles and curves all make for a stiff structure.. thats next on the build list after the "W" wing Heart shape thats on the go..

What I am working on is a holiday kite for this summer..
I wanted a folding kite to which I would just add bracing, but when I have it easily folding the kite structure becomes too loose and floppy, so I am making it with a compromise, it will fold but it will be lashed and CA'd to make it firm on arrival, and the bindings cut off for the return trip..
I am away for a few weeks so need my flying fix...

The W heart in foam build is here.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1504784 the best foam build uses 3mm depron and is 21" long..
that one flies slow and easy
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 07:09 PM
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Japan
Joined Apr 2010
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Dave, have you tried adding dihedral to these IFO-style kites, or foam Nutballs? I'm particularly interested in the effects of teh traditional "V"-style wing on either the leading edge, the trailing edge, or both.

Also, as a side, different project, has anyone tried a dual motor kite? I'm working on one now, I'm thinking basically 2 IFOs strapped together side by side, possibly with a third IFO acting as a tail. My idea is high lift/strength/safety that can lift a camera and FPV gear in teh middle for unobstructed tilt FOV. Possibly add a parachute as well.
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