|Apr 10, 2009, 07:34 AM|
eep epp or depron would be fine...I use what I have and that works for me...the body section just makes for fitting the gear easier and neater.. I have 3 parallel strips of velcro going from the front motor position, back to the servo position. these hold the esc and battery..and gives a lot of area for having more loose strips as safety tie downs, over the battery etc...the rec I try to put as far from the esc as possible so that goes behind the servos on another bit of velcro, again with a tie down over it.
The lighting is all on the fabric so this fuz does not interfere with what you see when its dark..
|Apr 11, 2009, 12:17 AM|
My sons were trying to get better night movies using a different camera, and their mobile phones. This is just a short movie with power on take off and some gentle low power slow flight..Shows the range of speed the nutball will do. Under more power the nutball is highly aerobatic... Here I was just going slow and floating it arround.. Simon my eldest was filming and forgot the camera also records sound.
There was me doing some nice loops etc and he had given up filming and was just watching the plane
If you like easy slow stable and steady you wont beat the Nutball or the Capricorn.... I am still a Nutball fan, and this kite version is my grab and fly hack now.. wind or no wind..no problem
|Apr 15, 2009, 08:42 AM|
new to rc kites
Hello lm building a kite and new at it.The heat shrink tube connects the rods due you shrink it after its connected?and due you use a lighter? My instructions are not to good.how is the elevon setup on what stick mode 2.I have the zlowest butterflyer kite.Any body still here cool thread.
|Apr 16, 2009, 02:59 AM|
Looking at the manual downloaded from here...(about half way down the page is the pdf instuctions for the build)..
It looks like you use heat shrink on all the joins for holding it together in the build..
I usually shrink the HS-tube with the side of a soldering iron, just down from the tip, where its hot but not the hotest.
If you read through at pic16 it shows you have to also go round to all the fixed joints and bind them with thread and CA glue to firmly fix them.
looking at the advert it says the tx is a programable 2.4Ghz unit.. you will need to read its instructions and turn on the elevon function... in mode2 the elevons will be operated from the right hand stick using ch1 and 2 for the servos....the ratcheted speed control and the rudder will be on the left hand stick
A mode1 unit will have the ratcheted speed control on the right stick
I am a right hander and fly mode2 which is the most common here..
turning on the elevon function will have the two servos mixed and moving, so when you pull back on the elevator stick both servos will pull the control surfaces up..and when you move the aileron stick left or right one servo will pull and the other will push.
the TX instructions should cover the setting up for all of this..
the modes are shown here...there are also modes3 and 4..
|Apr 16, 2009, 03:31 AM|
Dave, i am planning to build one of these since a very long time ago... Do you have a webspace where i could download these plans?
|Apr 16, 2009, 09:59 AM|
All the plans and sketchup zips are all here, on this thread, plus I have 2 build threads, one for the Simple and another for the nutball, as these are my favorite kites.
you dont need more than the measurements for rod layouts that are shown here, but I have also posted the google sketchup files in zips...download sketchup...its free
load up the SKP file from the zip, and then you can print out at full size if you must..you can also scale to any size.. so you can make one at whatever size you want..
the Simple is a small kite which ends up weighing 7.5-8oz flying weight... this flys great in low winds, but high winds blow it about a lot... but if you increase the size to double the area (easy with sketchup) , you can use a bigger motor and battery and fly it in a lot more windy conditions..
have a read through the threads and you will find most build questions, the how to do it, are covered somewhere.
but all the same please post any questions and we will try to help.
please also post pictures of your build.... dave
|Apr 16, 2009, 11:13 PM|
Thanks Dave. I am not familiar with Sketchup at this point of time. I am glad to have found the GIF image you posted with dimensions.
Downloaded that, and using my 'other' CAD software, i redraw them and printed them in tiled copies.
The progress so far, went to the hobby shop nearby and got me some CF Tube and Rods. They are really expensive here, cost USD3.50 each! Anyway, it's much cheaper in the end to get the actual kite from Singapore.
I was working away by pasting the tiled copies of the 'Diamond' last night and did a few cutting of CF and CA them together then i tied them down with dental floss (non waxed type, and i have to get more tonight) then a couple drops of CA to hold them together.
My questions now is, since there is limited build photos in this thread. Which pieces are stacked on which pieces? And if they are stacked, how many layers are 'allowed'?
I will try post photos tonight...
|Apr 17, 2009, 05:29 AM|
There are no rules on the stacking or layers, just think about it, remember at the end you will be puting fabric on the wing...so try keep the layers to a minimum
I tend to put the rods going cross ways on top of the Fuz rod.. so on the Fancy design that would be the rear straight rod where the elevators are joined, and also the two main bows.. the third bow that makes the bumper I made in 3 sections and the lengths that fit to the wing were put under the cross rods on the same side as the fuz rod.
What is most important to the build is to mirror left and right sides...so if a rod is under on the left, make sure its also under on the right.. whether you put it on top or below is of less or no importance
posts 297 and 298 show the pictures of the rods and if you look carefully you can just work out which is going over and which is under..click on the pics to make them bigger
I will say that the 1.2M Fancy is not a beginers design... It is the pretty one, but it takes a lot more flying than any of the others... If you are a new flier go for the simple as a starter, its cheaper and it is very good
CF Rods are even dearer here at £3 each or 4.5 US$... try fibreglass if you have a local dealer..they are heavier and are more bendy..They make the best bumper rods.. but you have to go up a size for stiffness, which means even more weight.... however they are a fraction of the cost...I cant get any FG rods local to me and if I order them, the postage puts the cost up untill it is just as cheap to get the CF rods from my local dealer...
Sketchup...info...on this thread.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920416
please try it as it makes drawing the kite designs easy.
|Apr 17, 2009, 04:04 PM|
definately a bit on the small size...and if youve been using 3mm rods it will be a bit heavy for the size,,,,.the goflykite's similar design is only 1000mm. david at post 294 printed and made his Fancy at 1.2M I made mine at 1.2 also because davids seemed good, and I never can make my planes light enough
our big versions have an area of 4sqft so end up with a loading of around 4oz sqft.. they fly well but are not a beginers kite
yours will have an area of only 1.4 sqft which is much less than even the Simple(2.7 sqft) so you will have to keep it as light as possible...6oz or under if you can, for best perforance
It is possible using all light weight bits, but I never can build them light enough myself.
Personally I would redo it a bit bigger.. reuse the rods making them longer by joining bits on..
However if you are good at building light then give it a go... for motor /radio bits suitable for a small one look at the nutball thread these small size 17" balls are being flown at well under 6oz
nutball start here.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389
From looking at your picture,,,youve also made a mistake..the fuz rod should be going right up to the front on those two bows..youve fixed it from the second bow..you will have to move it forward,, luckily youve cut it long enough.. its just as well they are easy to alter.. I keep getting my rods tied in wrong, usually forgeting to fit the the loose elevon hinge tubes to that rear cross rod before it gets bound ..oops youve forgot those as well..But
they can be fitted to the elevons instead so dont worry
|Apr 18, 2009, 08:52 AM|
Been away for a bit, but I now have a big bag of LEDs to play with. Been messing this morning with placement and i'm going to need loads.
Have you got yours lit up yet, if so how many leds have you ended up using
|Apr 18, 2009, 10:17 AM|
I have stripped the NK1 big kite for its rods and will be using the LEDs from that ...about 30 usually.. dont worry ive 38 on one kite and they only draw .6A
If you bought flashers be carefull ..I suspect mine of interfering with the radio signals...I think I had glitches with 4 flashers in the lighting.....so take care..
ive been playing with sketchup again to make a bigger pro3.. I made it a bit wider and a lot longer to get an area of 4.46 sqft..then I can use my heavier gear and fly it in a lot more wind. I am keeping it narrower to let it roll easier.. loops are never any problem
.heres the layout...but no COG yet
Ive also ordered some cheap gyros from china, I thought I would try them on the diamonds, rudder and elevator, as a trial to see what they will do.. I am rubbish at doing nice axial rolls, and thought they might help my poor flying..
I am still prefering the nutball, with the Simple as a second favorite. But that might be because I am not a very good aerobatic pilot and those two are nice and easy all rounders..
how are you getting on flying with the 1.2M Fancy
|Apr 18, 2009, 12:33 PM|
Great Job there !! I've stripped the Diamond (700mm Wingspan) and started on the Pro3 instead. I've used the original plan as posted in this thread.
I learn to take advise from you Dave and will gain experience with that first before proceeding to make a really big one much later...
Will see how it goes...
|Apr 18, 2009, 06:00 PM|
You wont regret building the Simple, its highly manouverable.and much simpler ...best of all when youve got so good and the Simple seems tame you can still reuse the rods for another project...
actually the Simple will never get stripped its far too good
did you watch the video..here it is again a Simple type
and the build thread is here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1020544
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