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Old Jan 18, 2009, 08:38 PM
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Arvada, Colorado
Joined Jul 2008
186 Posts
Help!
larger of 2 pushrods for rudder or elevator?

A few months ago I bought a SS (.014"/.018") pushrod set for my sailplane, but now I can't remember which is for the rudder, and which is for the elevator? I don't even have a gut feel for which one requires more force.

Can somebody tell me likely which one is for which?
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 09:10 PM
sneezes for lack of balsa dust
ME
Joined Oct 2008
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I'm guessing the larger of the two is for the elevator, but the results probably will not be to terrible either way
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 04:18 AM
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East Anglia, UK
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greatest force is when its in a dive. High airspeed.

Now work out whether you need rudder or elevator to reliably pull out...
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 01:08 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
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Found the following. Not sure if you got yours from these guys or not.

http://www.flyecm.com/inventory/default.asp

They list the .018 for the "ruder" (I'm sure they meant rudder) and the .014 for the elevator. I'd have gone with vintage1 on this, but not knowing the aircraft you're referring to here, we don't know the rudder/elevator design. It could be a flying rudder (one-piece) or flying elevator, or vertical/horizontal stabs with rudder/elevator. It could also be a combination (vertical stab/rudder, flying elevator.

Are the old pushrod housing still in the plane, and are they of two different sizes?

Good luck!

EJWash
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 02:30 PM
An itch?. Scratch build.
eflightray's Avatar
South Wales U.K.
Joined Mar 2003
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I believe on large aerobatic models they recommend higher torque servos on the rudder because usually it has a larger width behind the hinge and a greater load.

Regarding elevator, I was taught if flying aerobatic, put the horn on the top surface, so that the push rod pulls for up, not pushes for up. The reasoning being push rods can bend a lot easier than they stretch.

But then, don't try any low high-speed pull outs........inverted
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 04:35 PM
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Nah. put the rod underneath. Acts as a natural G limiter on high speed pullout and protects the wings
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 06:35 PM
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United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage1
Nah. put the rod underneath. Acts as a natural G limiter on high speed pullout and protects the wings

That makes a lot of sense to me... Good one.

AJ
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 09:45 PM
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Arvada, Colorado
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Yes, there are many things to consider. I plan to install the control rods far from the hinges on the horns to limit travel and force requirements.

Interesting thoughts on which side of the elevator to put the horn. I'll have to see how stiff they feel once I start experimenting with them. Thanks.

ejwash1 - This is a new Baby Fly E where you are left to come up with your own parts. It will be motorized for climbing, but flown gently as a thermal glider. I bought the control rods from rcbuilders.com, but they are no longer listed on that web site. I'm sure the ones from flyecm.com are the same since the description is virtually identical.... except it was rudder. Thanks for the link and info!
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 11:50 PM
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Sellonoid,

Glad to help.

After a search of the Baby Fly E, I ended up on soaringusa.com. Man, I had no idea that this area of soaring existed. I watched a few of the videos. These gliders are faster than the old .40 powered pylon racers!

A long, long way from my Astro Flite Malibu of years gone by. But I do have a Mark's Models Windward and a Goldberg Sophisticated Lady still in the box for old time sakes...

EJWash
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 01:36 AM
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 05:32 AM
An itch?. Scratch build.
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So, what are the answers Zor ?

Your vast knowledge is always welcome.
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 06:00 AM
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Australia, VIC, Macleod
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I think these pushrods are meant for DLG in which case the loads on the rudder at launch require the stronger pushrod.

Cheers
Dean
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 09:52 AM
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 10:27 AM
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 10:55 AM
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