Originally Posted by Luis_Claudio

Show us the tutorial!

Outstanding job!

Hi Luis,
Thanks.
Adams shows you how to do what I did in the first post.

What do you guys use for a primer coat before Createx? Normally I haven't been doing any but now I want a smoother finish. I did an experiment with Krylon H2O latex primer coat and then white base coat also Krylon H2O. Seemed to work well.

I haven't read through the whole thread, so someone may have suggested this. If so, my apologies. Have you ever tried stencil adhesive? It is a spray on adhesive that gives your stencil adhesion about equivalent to what you would see on a post-it note. So you spray the back of your stencil, let it dry, then you can place it, reposition it, and most importantly, remove it when you are done. You should be able to find it in any craft type store like Michaels or Hobby Lobby.

Prior to seeing this thread, I would never have attempted anything more advanced than a Sharpie color scheme, now I am getting ready to paint a new flying wing tonight. Pictures to follow...

Dream Archer On my white depron planes I don't use a primer. I am using both the regular Creatix and the Auto air Creatix paints. On the blue fanfold though I spray it with the h20 latex white. My finishes seem the same smoothness on either.

Adamb
Some of the stencil work I did on the paint job a few posts back I used a light spray of 3m adhesive. I usually use the magnet trick I posted a ways back but this time I tried a few different things and the 3m adhesive did ok. The nice thing is it didn't leave any tacky residue behind which I was concerned about.

Okay, here it is. Just pretend it's a good photo and the work table in the background is nice and neat.



I actually drew in the brick lines and rivets with a black Sharpie, then painted over it with a light grey, then added the brown "rust" from the rivets and black shading on the edges. The purple wasn't quite what I wanted. It was too metallic. But, hey! For a first attempt at something like this I am very pleased with how it came out.

If you are sitting on the fence wondering if you can do this, go for it! If I can get results like this in a couple of hours following the techniques in this thread then anyone can do it!

Thanks Adam and all for sharing your knowledge!

Adam

the planes looks so nice and guys you must need the nice battery charger for plane. IF you want to make the plane fly more high with long time,pls visit www.po8er.com .There are many new rc chargers. Welcome to review!

how r u guys doing checkers? is it with tape squares??

My checkers were done with masking tape. I laid strips down on a hard surface, drew the checker design on the tape, ran the razor along those lines. Pick out every other checker and put it on the foam. Done deal.

here's my seadart. printed out the wording and made into stencils. some accents too. all done with an airbrush.



more pics at my blog
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=219593

For square chequers, I used a cutting mat and 40mm wide masking tape which happened to be the same width as the main divisions marked on the mat. I just lightly pressed down a strip of tape onto the mat and cut out a strip of squares and then stuck them onto the foam. I had some issues with the tape not sticking well to EPP so I would try different brands until you are happy.
Check out the video on page 1 to see how the experts to it!
Head

Any suggestions on how best to paint to help Orientation in the sky?
eg is it better to paint more solid on the top, and stripes on the bottom, or vice versa?
No color on bottom and stripes on top?
I realise it is all personal preference, but just wondered if anyone had their own opinions, on why one way is better.
I just recently built a plane out of 6mm Depron, and painted some stripes on the bottom. I found that when doing aerobatics, I could see the stripes, and the carbon spa, through the wing!!! So I got awful confused real quick when I was away from me a bit.

Cheers

as you can see in my seadart above ive found dark color on the bottom and list on the top works pretty good. most of the time your looking at the bottom of the plane so it should contrast with the sky.

Can the seadart row?

I'm fairly new to scratch building foamies and I've grown rather fond of using DollarTree foam board because it's cheap, easy to work with and readily available from the store in my town. However, now that I'm starting to want to paint my foamies I've discovered an issue that perhaps others have solved.

Once paper is removed from DollarTree foam board there is a very thin smooth skin over the foam. The problem this gives us me is the skin will peel off when I attempt to mask the foam with masking tape -- even very low-tack blue tape. How have others dealt with this problem when painting DollarTree foam board? Do you sand off the skin? Is there a primer I can apply that will strengthen the skin so as to prevent the skin from lifting? Or, is there another type of masking material I can use in place of masking tape?

Thank you for any suggestions.

weird i havn't had that problem. the seadart above is all $TF.

seadart doesn't have any occupants that can row atm but it does pretty nice ROW and water touch and goes.