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Old Oct 29, 2012, 03:53 AM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
3,453 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by prodigy View Post
I will try to find some oracal paint mask! Who knows, maybe I might start selling masks!
http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=186 810
http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=187 811
http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=189 813

ORAMASK 810 Paint Mask Stencil - This highly flexible, transparent grey film has been formulated for use in stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. It is ideal for complex water-based paint applications, low-saturation solvent-based paint applications and conformable applications such as complex curves, uneven or semi-flexible substrates and surfaces.

ORAMASK 810S Spray Mask Stencil - This highly flexible, transparent grey film has been formulated for use in stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. It features a solvent-based adhesive for stronger resistance to solvents. Ideal for solvent-based paint applications (marine, automotive, etc.); complex, multi-shot and layering paint techniques; and conformable applications such as complex curves, uneven or semi-flexible substrates and surfaces.

ORAMASK 811 Paint Mask Stencil - A 3 mil, white PVC film designed for use in stencil applications that require a more rigid film. ORACAL 811 has a low-tack, water-based adhesive. It is recommended for water-based paint applications; smooth, flat, rigid substrates and surfaces; and large area capabilities.

ORAMASK 813 Paint Mask Stencil - This rigid, transparent blue PVC film has been formulated for stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. ORACAL 813 features a low-tack, water-based adhesive. It is ideal for water-based paint applications; smooth, flat, rigid substrates and surfaces; large area capabilities; and applications requiring background visibility.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 07:59 AM
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Wichita, KS
Joined Aug 2007
458 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wolf View Post
Here's a quickie paint job I just did on my Fancy Foam Flip-Flop. Same technique as most of the other paint jobs here. I printed the design from a .jpeg downloaded from the web onto card stock. I cut out the template, sprayed the red, then shaded with black. I don't spend too much time painting my indoor models as they don't tend to have long lives. Took maybe 30 minutes from start to finish.
Nice! Kind of freaking, but cool! How you like the flip flop?
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:24 AM
Flying electric since 1986
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USA, IN, Brownsburg
Joined Oct 2000
1,764 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adreher View Post
Nice! Kind of freaking, but cool! How you like the flip flop?
The kit went together easily, but I haven't flown it yet so that's all I can really say. It's been too windy here the past few days to mess with trying a maiden outside. It'll have to wait for my club's next indoor session.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 04:37 PM
Re-Kitting Expert :o
Bullhead City, Arizona
Joined Jan 2005
1,650 Posts
Latest Airbrush Project

Here is my latest airbrush project; A 24" NutBall I built for flying outdoor. I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas. The skulls are started with a stencil, to get the layout correct, and are then continued with free hand painting and the use of some additional free hand stencils that make the job of creating the organic artifacts on the bones of the skull.




I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 08:08 PM
When pigs fly rc
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USA, NY, Chester
Joined Apr 2008
2,425 Posts
Amazing work
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:49 AM
Callsign: Jolly Roger
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Ridgecrest California
Joined Jun 2006
584 Posts
Templates or no templates, someone has spent the time to learn to use his brush!
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Wichita, KS
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaBob View Post
Here is my latest airbrush project; A 24" NutBall I built for flying outdoor. I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas. The skulls are started with a stencil, to get the layout correct, and are then continued with free hand painting and the use of some additional free hand stencils that make the job of creating the organic artifacts on the bones of the skull.




I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!
Yep, that is sweet!
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:22 PM
Old age is not for sissies
Azarr's Avatar
Dayton Intl, Ohio, United States
Joined Jan 2000
7,719 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaBob View Post
I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas.
I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!
I've been wanting to attend one of the Getaways, but they only offer them in Orlando and Las Vegas. Curious what you'd consider your skill level before you took the course. Beautiful work on the skulls.

Azarr
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 03:28 PM
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United States, NY, New York
Joined Aug 2011
340 Posts
Hi Guys,
Just wondering if anyone has used the folk art Clear cote Thick glaze? Been testing on a few EPS bits and it seems to be bonding quite well. I have a Hobby top gun L-39 and i was thinking of using it for a cote, both to protect the foam paint from the factory and to maybe strengthen.

Appreciate the advise.

I am overseas for a contract in the middle east and am limited to certain brands. Unlike back in the US, where you have hundreds of brands to seal or strengthen.

Torchy
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 04:11 PM
Luis Claudio - Rio - Brazil
Luis_Claudio's Avatar
Brasil, RJ, Rio de Janeiro
Joined Apr 2005
2,391 Posts
Very nice effect and itīs simple to do! Could you please post a link for the stick you use, please?

Quote:
Originally Posted by garyholland View Post
Hi Luis,

No I don't have any Utoob vids I'm afraid. I had a quick trawl around and found this for you, which might be useful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzBm4...eature=related I wouldn't recommend cutting the letters in place as she does. Cut them on a board and then place them individually. Oh and the Frisket film I use is very 'low tack' so no need to do the sticking it on your arm thing!

As I've said before, most of my lettering is cut using a CraftRobo hobby cutter. It's quite a substantial outlay mind, so unless you're going to paint a lot of foamies, just stick with the simple hand cut symbols. Just to show what can be achieved, the Disney lettering was hand cut with a sharp scapel.

Gary
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 03:47 PM
When pigs fly rc
rcrich's Avatar
USA, NY, Chester
Joined Apr 2008
2,425 Posts
Help
I'm getting clots in my apple barrel paint when I try to thin it with windex. It then makes my air brush sputter. Do you guys run it by a strainer first?
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Jun 2005
1,312 Posts
I think the alcohol coagulates some acrylic paints. I've had the same issue and just use plain water to thin now. Maybe others have better advice.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 04:53 PM
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United States, FL, Sunrise
Joined Jul 2011
202 Posts
mix it well, I had a similar problem until I used an Airbrush Paint Jar With Built-In Mixer http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrus...xer-66446.html then it mixed easily and I had no more clumping.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Jun 2005
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Is there really an advantage to using Windex over water?
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 05:45 PM
Registered User
NorCal
Joined Dec 2009
1,716 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornetnz View Post
Is there really an advantage to using Windex over water?
I think so, water can leave kind of a fuzz but not with Windex. I may not have soaked in water long enough and thus the fuzz. If you are talking about removing the paper but I also mix paint with Windex and have no idea if that helps but I do it and it all works in my gun.
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