Originally Posted by prodigy

I will try to find some oracal paint mask! Who knows, maybe I might start selling masks!

http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=186 810
http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=187 811
http://www.oracal.com/products/product.asp?seriesID=189 813

ORAMASK 810 Paint Mask Stencil - This highly flexible, transparent grey film has been formulated for use in stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. It is ideal for complex water-based paint applications, low-saturation solvent-based paint applications and conformable applications such as complex curves, uneven or semi-flexible substrates and surfaces.

ORAMASK 810S Spray Mask Stencil - This highly flexible, transparent grey film has been formulated for use in stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. It features a solvent-based adhesive for stronger resistance to solvents. Ideal for solvent-based paint applications (marine, automotive, etc.); complex, multi-shot and layering paint techniques; and conformable applications such as complex curves, uneven or semi-flexible substrates and surfaces.

ORAMASK 811 Paint Mask Stencil - A 3 mil, white PVC film designed for use in stencil applications that require a more rigid film. ORACAL 811 has a low-tack, water-based adhesive. It is recommended for water-based paint applications; smooth, flat, rigid substrates and surfaces; and large area capabilities.

ORAMASK 813 Paint Mask Stencil - This rigid, transparent blue PVC film has been formulated for stencil applications, especially spray and paint techniques. ORACAL 813 features a low-tack, water-based adhesive. It is ideal for water-based paint applications; smooth, flat, rigid substrates and surfaces; large area capabilities; and applications requiring background visibility.

Originally Posted by Mark Wolf

Here's a quickie paint job I just did on my Fancy Foam Flip-Flop. Same technique as most of the other paint jobs here. I printed the design from a .jpeg downloaded from the web onto card stock. I cut out the template, sprayed the red, then shaded with black. I don't spend too much time painting my indoor models as they don't tend to have long lives. Took maybe 30 minutes from start to finish.

Nice! Kind of freaking, but cool! How you like the flip flop?

Originally Posted by adreher

Nice! Kind of freaking, but cool! How you like the flip flop?

The kit went together easily, but I haven't flown it yet so that's all I can really say. It's been too windy here the past few days to mess with trying a maiden outside. It'll have to wait for my club's next indoor session.

Here is my latest airbrush project; A 24" NutBall I built for flying outdoor. I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas. The skulls are started with a stencil, to get the layout correct, and are then continued with free hand painting and the use of some additional free hand stencils that make the job of creating the organic artifacts on the bones of the skull.




I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!

Amazing work

Templates or no templates, someone has spent the time to learn to use his brush!

Originally Posted by GorillaBob

Here is my latest airbrush project; A 24" NutBall I built for flying outdoor. I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas. The skulls are started with a stencil, to get the layout correct, and are then continued with free hand painting and the use of some additional free hand stencils that make the job of creating the organic artifacts on the bones of the skull.




I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!

Yep, that is sweet!

Originally Posted by GorillaBob

I started airbrushing this one while attending the Airbrush Getaway I just attended at the Tropicana in Las Vegas.
I took the Killer Skulls class, taught by Eddie Davis. It was phenomenal!

I've been wanting to attend one of the Getaways, but they only offer them in Orlando and Las Vegas. Curious what you'd consider your skill level before you took the course. Beautiful work on the skulls.

Azarr

Hi Guys,
Just wondering if anyone has used the folk art Clear cote Thick glaze? Been testing on a few EPS bits and it seems to be bonding quite well. I have a Hobby top gun L-39 and i was thinking of using it for a cote, both to protect the foam paint from the factory and to maybe strengthen.

Appreciate the advise.

I am overseas for a contract in the middle east and am limited to certain brands. Unlike back in the US, where you have hundreds of brands to seal or strengthen.

Torchy

Very nice effect and itīs simple to do! Could you please post a link for the stick you use, please?

Originally Posted by garyholland

Hi Luis,

No I don't have any Utoob vids I'm afraid. I had a quick trawl around and found this for you, which might be useful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzBm4...eature=related I wouldn't recommend cutting the letters in place as she does. Cut them on a board and then place them individually. Oh and the Frisket film I use is very 'low tack' so no need to do the sticking it on your arm thing!

As I've said before, most of my lettering is cut using a CraftRobo hobby cutter. It's quite a substantial outlay mind, so unless you're going to paint a lot of foamies, just stick with the simple hand cut symbols. Just to show what can be achieved, the Disney lettering was hand cut with a sharp scapel.

Gary

Help
I'm getting clots in my apple barrel paint when I try to thin it with windex. It then makes my air brush sputter. Do you guys run it by a strainer first?

I think the alcohol coagulates some acrylic paints. I've had the same issue and just use plain water to thin now. Maybe others have better advice.

mix it well, I had a similar problem until I used an Airbrush Paint Jar With Built-In Mixer http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrus...xer-66446.html then it mixed easily and I had no more clumping.

Is there really an advantage to using Windex over water?

Originally Posted by Hornetnz

Is there really an advantage to using Windex over water?

I think so, water can leave kind of a fuzz but not with Windex. I may not have soaked in water long enough and thus the fuzz. If you are talking about removing the paper but I also mix paint with Windex and have no idea if that helps but I do it and it all works in my gun.