Here is my main plans page. These were primarily designed for 24mm rocket boost and glide recovery. However with proper "prop" clearance and modification to install a pusher motor, they should work fine as pusher parkjets. Several of them I have flown this way.

For rocket boost, I prefer the Aerotech RC 24mm case and E-6 RC reloads exclusively as this gives an 8 second burn time, gentle boost, and they are very controllable. I do not have to shift any weight for the CG shift, I use a slightly tail heavy launch condition and slightly nose heavy glide and it works perfectly. Use of heavier motors or ones with less thrust may result in unstable or low boosts. I also use/recommend a 6 foot 1/4" launch rod or launch rail. I've made a simple adapter out of an aluminum tube with a hardwood dowel glued inside with launch buttons on either end, that I can slide into my 1/4" launch lug to adapt these to my rail as well. The rail doesn't flex/whip as much.


Reminder that these were scanned full size, but printers normally cannot print to the edges, normally a printer will shrink the image and put some border around it, this will yield a smaller than original print and may cause mis-alignment, make sure you turn off page scaling in the printer before printing, and that there is no scaling or auto-expand or fill to the sheets and that you print without borders.

Most of these will fit onto a single sheet of 27"x39" 6mm depron, a few may take two sheets. If your sheets are smaller or the plans don't quite fit, you can easily splice an extra piece on the end. If you do this try to put the joint at a place where another cross piece or lamination will overlap it which will add support. If you can't put the joint in a place where there is overlap of another piece, try to insert a carbon strip to connect the pieces. For landing protection I usually use UHU por contact cement to put strips of .03 or .04 styrene sheet where the model would contact the ground and this has held up well.

**Notes for cruciform fuse models:

When cutting slots and tabs, it is better to cut the slots on the side with slots only, then overlay it on the other fuse side and mark the tabs and slots, that way you are sure they line up perfectly. The plans show what I did but it's better to rely on your cut pieces for perfect alignment.

For the tabs, you can do it many ways, slit the tab so that half is on each side, or all on one side, but I normally cut my tabs so that each tab section has a piece from each side to lock together and I feel this makes a better glue joint. I also I do not cut and separate the very front tab, instead I slide it into the front slot on the mating fuse piece, it may take some care, but it makes the nose section a bit more robust in my opinion. So the top and bottom fuse pieces are always connected at the front.

**General Notes

Build light, I've included carbon where it is needed for flight and landing loads. Keep servos and rx/bec/esc as far forward on the models as possible. This will give you more margin for moving the battery for CG and avoid extra nose weight. I tape down the wiring with dubro hinge tape and often times just paint over it, masking the receiver case and connectors at the RX of course. I use velcro to hold the RX and bec/esc in place, as it allows easy changing out if needed. I don't use double back tape for my servos any more as one hot summer in the garage and many of my planes servos started to sag, I now CA the servos in place. I don't use clevis connectors, but use .034 music wire and Z bends that fit tightly. Less to fail or go wrong. I mount the wire in the clevis of the control and the servo, apply glue to the servo and mount the servo with the control in a neutral position. I then fine tune with the radio if needed. There is zero slop and it is light and simple.

I've done a thorough build photo thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1513070 it will cover most of the construction techniques for the planes with full flying tails.

Please feel free to send me PM feedback on any issues or success you have.

Frank

Awesome! Subscribed and bookmarked!

Fascinating models! Someone even posted about them over on "Ye Olde Rocket Forum" (see: http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showt...2303#post62303 ).

The Quest Aerospace Q E-Z boost-glider (see: http://www.rocketreviews.com/reviews...t_glider.shtml ) would make an interesting scaled-up R/C profile model--literally a profile model *of* a profile model! Its canard glider could have an electric motor and pusher prop (perhaps of the "folding-blades" variety) and be launched by a proportionally-upscaled version of the booster powered by "D" through "G" rocket motors.

I gotta know, what do you use for the shiny silver paint and the build material?

Hi, I'm using testors Chrome, it works pretty well and dries quickly and really gives a shine. For material I use depron, and for most markings I'm using sig stars and bars, coverite vinyl lettering and the rest is usually trim monokote cut to shape.

Frank

a lot of x-planes from the 50īs,60īs & 70īs!!!!!!!!!!!!
exactly what I really enjoy!
congrats from Brazil !!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by CESARNOGUEIRA

a lot of x-planes from the 50īs,60īs & 70īs!!!!!!!!!!!! exactly what I really enjoy! congrats from Brazil !!!!!!!!!

All I can say is Ditto! Lots of nice builds and inspiring.

Ok where are you hiding the details on the Battleship Yamato!?!

Very nice planes. I think i have considered building most of those!

I've updated the bomarc plans to just double the ramjets and not use an x-form structure. I think it is simpler to understand, allows some rounding of the pods and looks a little cleaner.

Frank

Do you recommend any of them in particular for a first time rocket glider user? I'm finally getting good enough at RC to want to give the rockets a try.