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Old Jan 06, 2009, 01:48 PM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
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plans links

Here is my main plans page. These can be flown as pusher parkjets or as rocket boosted gliders. I have personally built and flown all of these. All but the shuttle and dynasoar have flown as pusher jets, and all but the Hustler have flown as rocket boosted gliders. I have built them with a rocket mount and have an adapter that allows me to slide in an electric pusher and fly them either way. When I fly rocket boosted I use a 2s 800mah pack and when I fly pusher I use 3s 800mah pack, my CG works out perfectly that way and I don't need to add or remove any other weight.

To build them as a pusher, you just need to fit and install a motor mount for your motor, ply plate etc, and recess it as desired or mount it right at the end, just keeping in mind prop clearance. I usually just make a ply disk, glue in a 2" piece of 1/8" carbon rod in the center and then poke a hole in the depron and glue the ply plate/rod into the end of the foam with foam safe CA+ and it has never failed me. The Grayson microjet v3 and an apc 6x4 with 800mah 3s is a good power setup for all but the B-58, on that I use a grayson super parkjet with 6x4 apc prop and 2100 3s pack.

For rocket boost you need to fit and install a 24mm rocket mount in the tail, and use an appropriate battery for RC power and to meet CG, I use a 2s 800mah eflite battery and that weighs the same as my loaded rocket motor.

For rocket boost, I prefer the Aerotech RC 24mm case and E-6 RC reloads exclusively as this gives an 8 second burn time, gentle boost, and they are very controllable. I do not have to shift any weight for the CG shift, I use a slightly tail heavy launch condition and slightly nose heavy glide and it works perfectly. Use of heavier motors or ones with less thrust may result in unstable or low boosts. I use a launch rail as it doesn't flex at all, if you use a rod, you would need a minimum 6' 1/4" rod to give proper speed off the rod. Remember that your placement of the launch buttons or launch lug needs to allow clearance for the wires/servos/motor.

A few of these would be hard to do as a non rocket, the shuttleand dynasoar have such large frontal area I don't think a pusher would get enough airflow to the prop.

Reminder that these were scanned full size, but printers normally cannot print to the edges, normally a printer will shrink the image and put some border around it, this will yield a smaller than original print and may cause mis-alignment, make sure you turn off page scaling in the printer before printing, and that there is no scaling or auto-expand or fill to the sheets and that you print without borders.

Most of these will fit onto a single sheet of 27"x39" 6mm depron, a few may take two sheets. If your sheets are smaller or the plans don't quite fit, you can easily splice an extra piece on the end. If you do this try to put the joint at a place where another cross piece or lamination will overlap it which will add support. If you can't put the joint in a place where there is overlap of another piece, try to insert a carbon strip to connect the pieces. For landing protection I put strips of .03 or .04 styrene sheet where the model would contact the ground and this has held up well. If you are landing on something smooth, you can also use great planes or dubro wing skids that have two prongs, I put one or two on the bottom of the fuse and this works fine as well.

**Notes for cruciform fuse models, or models with tabs/slots:

When cutting slots and tabs, it is better to cut the slots on the side with slots only, then overlay it on the other fuse side and mark the tabs and slots, that way you are sure they line up perfectly. The plans show what I did but it's better to rely on your cut pieces for perfect alignment.

For the tabs, you can do it many ways, slit the tab so that half is on each side, or all on one side, but I normally cut my tabs so that each tab section has a piece from each side to lock together and I feel this makes a better glue joint. I also I do not cut and separate the very front tab, instead I slide it into the front slot on the mating fuse piece, it may take some care, but it makes the nose section a bit more robust in my opinion. So the top and bottom fuse pieces are always connected at the front.

**General Notes

Build light, I've included carbon where it is needed for flight and landing loads. Keep servos and rx/bec/esc as far forward on the models as possible. This will give you more margin for moving the battery for CG and avoid extra nose weight. I tape down the wiring with dubro hinge tape and often times just paint over it, masking the receiver case and connectors at the RX of course. I use velcro to hold the RX and bec/esc in place, as it allows easy changing out if needed. I don't use double back tape for my servos any more as one hot summer in the garage and many of my planes servos started to sag, I now CA the servos in place. I don't use clevis connectors, but use .034 music wire and Z bends that fit tightly. Less to fail or go wrong. I mount the wire in the clevis of the control and the servo, apply glue to the servo and mount the servo with the control in a neutral position. I then fine tune with the radio if needed. There is zero slop and it is light and simple.

I've done a thorough build photo thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1513070 it will cover most of the construction techniques for the planes with full flying tails, Here is a video version:
Instructions for building a profile RC X-15 rocket glider (6 min 53 sec)


Please feel free to send me PM feedback on any issues or success you have.

Here is a link to some of the build threads that may apply to constructing some of these models.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2070504
Frank
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Old Jan 06, 2009, 08:49 PM
AMA 125691
wmcneal's Avatar
Jacksonville Florida
Joined Jul 2002
2,240 Posts
Awesome! Subscribed and bookmarked!
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 11:46 PM
Black Shire
Fairbanks, Alaska
Joined Feb 2009
7 Posts
Fascinating models! Someone even posted about them over on "Ye Olde Rocket Forum" (see: http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showt...2303#post62303 ).

The Quest Aerospace Q E-Z boost-glider (see: http://www.rocketreviews.com/reviews...t_glider.shtml ) would make an interesting scaled-up R/C profile model--literally a profile model *of* a profile model! Its canard glider could have an electric motor and pusher prop (perhaps of the "folding-blades" variety) and be launched by a proportionally-upscaled version of the booster powered by "D" through "G" rocket motors.
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 06:45 AM
Got Foam?
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United States, TN, Greeneville
Joined Sep 2011
283 Posts
Love it!!!

I gotta know, what do you use for the shiny silver paint and the build material?
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 11:28 AM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
Hi, I'm using testors Chrome, it works pretty well and dries quickly and really gives a shine. For material I use depron, and for most markings I'm using sig stars and bars, coverite vinyl lettering and the rest is usually trim monokote cut to shape.

Frank
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 08:53 AM
MULTI ENGINE FANACTIC
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SAO PAULO,S.P.,BRAZIL
Joined Dec 2000
547 Posts
a lot of x-planes from the 50īs,60īs & 70īs!!!!!!!!!!!!
exactly what I really enjoy!
congrats from Brazil !!!!!!!!!
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 05:36 PM
Watt Waster
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Joined Oct 2010
1,858 Posts
Like 'Em

Quote:
Originally Posted by CESARNOGUEIRA View Post
a lot of x-planes from the 50īs,60īs & 70īs!!!!!!!!!!!! exactly what I really enjoy! congrats from Brazil !!!!!!!!!
All I can say is Ditto! Lots of nice builds and inspiring.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:54 AM
SG Talon... Super Genius.
Lenox, Michigan
Joined Nov 2005
3,150 Posts
Ok where are you hiding the details on the Battleship Yamato!?!

Very nice planes. I think i have considered building most of those!
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 01:25 PM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
I've updated the bomarc plans to just double the ramjets and not use an x-form structure. I think it is simpler to understand, allows some rounding of the pods and looks a little cleaner.

Frank
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 01:14 PM
Registered User
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United States, UT, Herriman
Joined Jan 2012
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Do you recommend any of them in particular for a first time rocket glider user? I'm finally getting good enough at RC to want to give the rockets a try.
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Old Jan 02, 2014, 01:43 AM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
They boost quite nicely and not too fast, if you are comfortable with a quick aileron plane you should be ok. The x-15 is a pretty good choice.

frank

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Originally Posted by ttabbal View Post
Do you recommend any of them in particular for a first time rocket glider user? I'm finally getting good enough at RC to want to give the rockets a try.
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Old Jan 23, 2014, 03:21 PM
Suspended Account
United States, CT, Hartford
Joined Jun 2009
5,336 Posts
your stuff is amazing. Thanks for sharing the build info as well as pics and plants etc.
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Old Sep 02, 2014, 10:30 PM
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Wheres the CG of the spaceshuttle when in gliding mode?
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Old Sep 03, 2014, 01:39 AM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
The cg should be marked on the plans,that is the boost cg with loaded e6 rc motor, post burnout cg will be 3/4"-1.25" forward of that approx but you should set the boost cg, that is the most important. If you are looking for a pusher flight cg I'd start with 3/4" forward of the plans and go from there.

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Originally Posted by Adrian Ruiz View Post
Wheres the CG of the spaceshuttle when in gliding mode?
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 09:36 PM
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Joined Sep 2014
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Rocket Plans

Hello Frank

I was quite impressed by their models of rockets and also by construction techniques, simple and effective. You could solve me a question?
How do I transfer the design of the rocket to the Depron? Is there a special technique so that the design is good precision for cutting?
Thank you so much

Marcelo
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